I can't imagine ever using any other covering than solartex for any aircraft that was originally covered in fabric. It's just perfect both in it's easy of use and the authenticity of the results. If I ever build a Cub, you can be sure I'll use solartex.

As for Nelson's paints, I absolutely love the convenience (being water-based) and the look. But it takes some getting used to. It's different from any other paint I have ever used. Many people have problems spraying it on and Jerry, himself, recommends hand-brushing. But done well, it produced a result that is on par with a full-out authentic dope finish in a fraction of the time and will none of the dope induced headaches. Again for any fabric covered aircraft, solartex and Nelson's paints are absolutely the way to do.

BTW, while solartex comes in "Cub Yellow" you can just as well use the natural and paint with any kind of paint you want and then give it all a final coat of Nelson's clear.

It's been a while since a post here. I got my cub with my CHRISTmas money. In 36 hours I have built the fuse. Boy what a fast and fun build. I will try and post a few of my pictures later. My computer is down AAARRGGGHHHH. I am at the library now, but will post some later at work.
Happy building guys
Alan

Here is the current status of mine.

Still need to paint the roundels (Stars and Bars), finish the cowl, and install the radio.

SunDevilPilot

Got the Roundel painted on the bottom of the right wing today. Should be able to get the top of the left wing done tomorrow.

Also got the speed control and battery all soldered up with connectors making them ready to install when the paint is done.

SunDevilPilot

Here are a couple of shots of mine in the build stage. I think I am going to use solartex and paint also. I am thinking of the AE 1. A ambulance cub for WW 2.
Alan

and 2 more

Looks good BG Fireman.....

SunDevilPilot

Here is one or two more just for kicks.

Where is Dudley? You're not in Dudley Shoals, near Hickory and Granite Falls are you?

Khodges,
Dudley is about 50 miles east of Raleigh. You can move closer and help me with mine if you like. I have seen several photos of yours. It looks great.
Alan

Thanks, and nothing personal, but I'll pass. I lived in Raleigh from 1983 until 1995, and have travelled every eastern NC highway and backroad from there to the coast and both state lines (sales rep, lots of travel). Too flat for me. Dudley must be somewhere around Rocky Mount, Wilson or Greenville.

At any rate, your Cub is coming right along, looks great. You certainly don't need any help. I wish the Sig 1/4 scale version built the same way, it sure was a great build. My own L-4 is in need of some R&R right now, it's picked up quite a few miles since I built it in 2003.

Close quess there Khodges. I live 1 mile south of the runway at Seymour Johnson AFB. Lots of F 15 and KC 135 tankers. After the AFB Mt. Olive pickles is our next nearest claim to fame. I love the mountains though.
Alan

Are you AF there at SJAFB? I used to go to the airshow there every year. It was great when they had both F-4's and F-15's (early 90's). One of the most impressive things, though, were the max performance takeoffs the KC-10's would do. Hard to believe a plane that big could go vertical.

No not AF just local yocal who has always loved airplanes. Since my health keeps me from flying the real thing I enjoy rc. Especially scale planes. I work for a local funeral home. We guarantee a fly over for all military members. The funeral home is in direct line with the S/W end of the runway. The planes are so low you can wave to the pilots from the second floor windows.

I am trying to rig away to have a hatch on the back of my cub like an AE 1. If I cut the top spar will I lose any strength to the tail feathers? I have put in a 1/4 inch square piece of balsa at a 45 degree angle to help give support. I've not cut the spar yet though. Also any ideas on how to best hinge the front of the hatch behind the cabin? I am trying to fill time until pay day so I can buy some covering for it.

Thanks Alan

I don't think cutting that "backbone" longeron will weaken the structure, because of the way the lower part of the fuselage is a box structure. I would be concerned with adding much weight down the tail, as you move further back from the C/G. The other thing is maintaining the shape of the lift-up portion and keeping it fastened down while in flight. It's definitely do-able, and would look really cool (I'm a big fan of mods like this), but to make it worthwhile, you'd need to put a litter in back, detail the whole thing, and that adds weight. You'd have to add a pretty good bit of up front weight to re-balance things, and even though this plane has a lot of wing, you'd rather keep it light, I'm sure.

Khodges,
Well I have decided to just draw the lines on the side to make it look like it opens up. I would want to put all the touches to the inside as you have stated. I dont want to make it heavy. I am hoping to make it a easy flier for lazy day flying.

Also has anyone found a beeter way to attach the wing strut at the plane. I have one put together and put it on, and I can already tell it will be a pain to put together.
Thanks
Alan

Alan, it only takes me about 5 minutes or less to attach the wings at the field, no big deal. I leave the struts attached to the wing permanently, so it's just a matter of sliding the wing in place, attaching the aileron servo leads, and tightening the wing root screws and the strut screw at the fuse bottom. Makes the wings a tad more cumbersome to transport with the struts in place, but it's a trade-off.

Getting close to covering.

Have been plugging away on the Cub build and got the roundels done on both wings now. I also started on mounting the aileron servos. I did not want to use the traditional "Wood Block" method to mount the servos onto the aileron hatches so I copied a design I found on the internet at Sierra. Purchased the aluminum angle at Home Depot for about $5.00 and have enough to make about 10-15 mounts. Ran out of bolts so the servo is not totally attached.

If you make your own be careful that the mount is not too wide and interferes with the mounting rails in the wing. I had to adjust the brackets to fit by making them a little more narrow.

Here are the results:

SunDevilPilot

Sundevilpilot,
How did you mask of your roundells? I am planning something simular.
Thanks Alan

Masking the Roundel.....

First I printed a full size template on the computer. Due to the size this was on two pages. I joined the pages with tape and cut out the roundel. I also removed the star and bar from the middle. With the paper template I placed it on the wing and traced around the circle part. I then marked the corners of the blue. After I had the circle part and the corners marked I used 3M fine line tape to go around the design. After masking the blue portion I painted the insignia blue. Once that was dry I pulled the tape and masked the star and bar, again, using the paper template and a pencil to make alignment marks onto the wing. Then the white was masked and painted.

Hope this helps...

FYI - I was going to use "Frisket Film" cut onto a template for the design but found the combination of low tack and resistance to curving over the wing to prohibit the use of frisket.

Photo of Roundel Below...

SunDevilPilot

Sundevilpilot,
Do you think that press and seal would make a good masking product? Maybe put it on a piece of glass and cut out the template and then transfere it over to the area to be painted. I plan on using some kind of fabric covering. Here is a picture of what I am planning and a link to another one I found. : http://www.airliners.net/photo/Piper...E-1/1361113/M/
Thanks Alan

That would be a great scheme. I always like having something different. There are several military schemes on the net but I have not seen one at my field. That is why I chose the scheme I did. Only issue I have would be cutting the top stringers. I would go with the look of the drawing more than the photo on Airliners.net. You could make a panel line to make the rear look removable without loosing the strengh of the tail.

Masking: I would use fineline tape. Flat masking materials are hard to lay down on the fuse and wings and maintain a good seal.

I forgot to mention. Prior to spraying each color for the roundels I went around the tape line with the base color. Example, when I sprayed the blue I had gone around the tapeline with olive drab to seal the tape for leaks. When I painted the white over the blue I went around the tape line with blue prior to spraying. I really soaked the tapeline with paint using a q-tip to apply the paint. The intent is to allow any gaps on the tape to be filled with the base paint color. This paint was immediately wiped off the airframe with care not to pull the tape line up. Then the overlying paint was sprayed. This techinique will result in razor sharp tape lines.

SunDevilPilot

Sundevilpilot,
Thanks for your help. I had talked with khodges about cutting the top stringer. After some consideraton I decided to just draw the lines in and not do any cutting.
Thanks Alan

Got a little more done on my Cub today. Cleared the wings to lock the design down and finished the mounting of the aileron servos to the servo plates. Went well.....

Regardless of the mounting method the installation is a tight fit. The lines visible on the servo plates are the location of the mounting rails in the wings. Keep this in mind when building your own mounts. Keep the mounting blocks the same width as the servo and all should be fine.

Now I need to cover the plates and paint them to match the wings.

SunDevilPilot