Im coughing for several days from using CA in big amounts, im using CA only when i cannot use the wood glue.

mean while just glued the sheeting with wood glue, at the end its faster built because there are several issues with using CA like glued plans etc'
CA also need time to set up.

MinnFlyer,

Thanks for the tips on wing sheeting!!! I've been building airplanes for going on 25 years now, and let me tell you what, YOU DO LEARN SOMETHING NEW EVERY DAY!!! Sheeting the "other side" of wing panels is something I've always struggled with and never look forward to doing.

I'm definitely going to try your method... right now I'm scratching out a Dick Sarpolous' "Right Angle" from MA plans... and getting very close to doing the sheeting.

Thanks again!!

I can relate Brian. I grew up in this hobby. I'm 54 now, but I still pick up tips now and then on RCU!

Did as suggested previously , made wett and glued the front of the sheeting to LE, let it hardened, made it wet and let curved for 20 minutes and glued it to the ribs and spar using a glue syringe.
Before this I glued in place the LG with 30 min epoxy.

Then came the bottom wing center glued with wood glue with Q-tips held with 4” clamps and pins.

Thanks MinnFlyer, RCKen, tmproff


Alex

Then started the left wing, positioning it over plans, pined main spars and ribs and TE with the TE jig.
Sanded the ribs holes in the TE to fit better, pined it and glued.
Then did the same to the LE.
Turn of the shear webs came.

I’m using a lot of glue, a little bit too much I guess...


With this Aliphatic glue I work faster there is always something to glue as long there are free clamps method, about an hour since the last gluing
Glued the TE sheeting while it still pined to the TE jig, didn’t jumped the wagon this time.
Then wet the LE several times till it bent to fit and not soaked with water I glued the LE sheet, It held with clamps, tape and pins.
When The LE cured I glued the TE sheeting

Then did the top sheeting and the LG is Glued with epoxy and curing right now as I’m writing this.

Questions: how bad is that arc I have on the bottom TE sheeting?
Should I do any thing to correct it?

The third picture shows the gap at its maximum, 2nd pic is from the side.

Its only on the left wing, right wing is totally straight and the LE is straight on both wings.

Either way I have two wing halves.

Thanks
Alex

Wet the concave side of the TE sheeting. Then, with the wet side down, put a block under the wingtip and the center of the wing and add a weight to the center to bow the TE in the opposite direction. Let it sit overnight and see how it looks in the morning.

I am just ordering my US kit. I do notice something on your LE sheeting that is different from what I do. A wise old builder told me not to glue the sheeting to the back edge of the leading edge stick. He says that you will always see that seam. We sand down the LE stick until it is flush with the ribs. Next youglue your sheeting on top of that strip. After it cures you wet the outside, fold it down and glue to ribs and spar. After both top and bottom sheets are down you sand your LE to shape with #80 and a long block. Now you don't see any seams.

maynardrupp,

that is an idea and you need to plan it ahead, i already glued mine.
the supplied balsa sheets are of width with LE not sanded.
However I’m aware of that seam you mentioned and I’ll close it with wood filler and strengthen it with CA.

other thing i can think of is that i hate to sand that area perpendicular to the ribs because I brake them this way.

An interesting idea though I’ll try it on the next build maybe.

Thanks
Alex

I use a new sharp xacto blade and cut that. I'm with you, I usually tend to break the ribs if I try to sand it.

I’m planning something ahead.

The motor im gonna use is OS 75 ax for this Ultra Sport, since the motor compartment is tight I got an idea to use T-nuts.

I have two motor mounts the left is GP 40-60 and the right is GP 60-120.

I found these 6-32 T-nuts, they are smaller and I was thinking to use them to mount the motor.

I thought to use the bigger mount because it has more flesh at the arms and shorten them a little bit.

Questions:
Is this a good idea to use these T-nuts to mount the motor?
Which motor mount to use, the 40-60 has a chamfer on it?
Would the bigger mount fit for the US60?


Thanks
Alex

Just drill and tap the plastic with a 6/32 tap. Forget the T-nuts, the tapped holes work fine.

Ditto.

Ditto ditto

Same here...I have the .75 AX on mine and I tapped the mount...works perfectly.

Will tap the mount, thanks guys.

And the build continues,
Glued the wing halves, it looks too straight, well it is.

Question: How bad is it? If I put the wing on a surface the instructions call for 1-1/8” wing tip difference from the surface I have about ¾” for every wing tip.
Nah, its gonna fly as well.

Besides that the LE and the front sheeted part and the TE are matching, I have some minor difference 3” before the TE, I guess its the sheeting uneven not finger flush, but the LE and the TE are matching.

Thanks
Alex

If you have too little dihedral in the wing, you may not get any roll couple with rudder, or even a bit of adverse roll couple with rudder. It won't cause difficult handling problems. The wing is basically a Kaos wing, and they were built so that the top surface was flat, and the bottom surface tapered up. Basically, minimal dihedral...and the Kaos line of airplanes all flew very, very well. You may not notice anything, once the model's in the air.

Thanks Bax,

what is adverse roll couple with rudder?

the wing top is flat.

Thanks
Alex

Alex:

Don't think you'll have any problems with missing 3/8" dihedral. I'm pretty sure my wing is about the same, and my US flies fine. I'd rather have my root ribs glued solidly together than have perfect dihedral with a gap in the root ribs.

As for the slight difference in sheeting height, between the fiberglass tape on the middle of the wing, some wood filler, and an 80 grit sanding block, everything will end up smooth and even.

Dont worry about the dihedral. The original design of the US 60 in RCM
and on the RCM plans has the wing flat. No dihedral other than what the
wing taper supplies. That is how mine was built and it flies wonderfuly.

No "roll coupling with rudder"...adverse or otherwise....

Mike Hammer

Thanks guys, Nice US's you have

My other airplanes are flying well with much worse mistakes….

Most of the time I’ll probably focus and eye catch it in the sky then do the maneuvers this straightness limiting the airplane.

And these kind of alternate builds lead to very interesting flight characteristics, I don’t complain at all, there is no point to it.

Thanks
Alex

The supplied wood on this airplane kit is so close to "on size" that I could not extend the sheeting over the leading edge like I do on the SIG sumthin' extra. Afriend told me to buy 1/8" x 1/2" balsa and glue it to the aft side of the LE wood between the ribs. This gives a support for the LE skin between th ribs and will minimize the line in the covering from this joint. That works very well. I also bought and am using the Great Planes wing jig. I think it was almost $25.00 but with these ribs already having holes for the jig's rods, I thought it would be a good idea. I love it. Like building a wing on a shish kabob. It makes the process easier and prevents built in warps.

My mistake with this build is gluing the bottom TE sheeting on one wing without the TE jig as the instruction said.
It lead to an arc in the wing, I fixed it with water and weight post #33.