Thanks Isaac,

I think I will give them a try.

Regards

Malcolm

Hi Frank

As far as I remember it is 10mm.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=6816

Best regards,

Isaac Najary

Issac,
Thanks for your quick reply. I also discovered Hobby King products but was somewhat concerned by a few reviews that described them as not being straight and the wall thickness being too thin.

Shall I assume that you kept the 11mm phenolic tube that came with the kit and just replaced the 10mm hollow tube ?

What is wall thickness of that tube ? Can't find that info on Hobby King's website.

You are to be congratulated for your outstanding workmanship !

Thanks,
Frank

Hi Frank,

You right, I kept the 11mm phenolic tube that came with the kit and just replaced the 10mm aluminum hollow tube.

I checked my orders from Hobby King and I found that I didn't by the 10mm carbon tube from them.

Now I remember that I purchased the 10mm carbon tube from some local hobby shop in Israel, and I don't know what the original source is.

The inside diameter should be about 7.5mm.

I can only suggest you to ask Hobby King about the inside diameter.

You can also by this tube (TUP 15 0.393" – 9.9822mm OD X 0.29" – 7.366mm ID) and I am sure it will fit properly:
http://www.acp-composites.com/home.php?cat=4663

Best regards,

Isaac Najary

Hi Issac,

Appreciate your effort and research. I'll contact them.

Thanks,

Frank

Hi Ricardo and mike,

About the energy consumption, the Q80 consume 5% - 10% more energy than the C50 14 XL, But it is more powerful than the C50 14 XL.

The Q80 consume about 3,500 - 3,600 milliampere for P11 in medium wind.

Best Regards,

Isaac Najary

Thanks for the report Isaac. I look forward to seeing one first hand some time.

Hi Scott,

I waited till now after I finished the trimming process to answer your question.

Now when I have 40 flights on the plane, I can say that I am satisfied with the way the plane flies.

On the first 15 flights I dealt with that pitch to the canopy problem that you were talking about.

I had to move the C.G. from 220 mm (25% of the MAC) to 200 mm from the T.E. (31.5% of the MAC). And to increase the down thrust.

The final angles are:

Canopy floor: -2.75 degrees

Wing: -0.35 degrees

Airflow: -0.85 degrees

Down thrust: -2.15 degrees

Right thrust: 3.70 degrees

Best regards

Isaac Najary

Thanks for the reply, Isaac. I appreciate that you waited until after you were satisfied with the trim to respond.
If I may ask one more question...Where did you set your stabilizer angle?

Your thread has been a huge help in construction of my C2.

Thanks again,
Scott

The stabilizer angle is: -0.6 degrees.

Isaac Najary

Thank you, Isaac.

Scott

issac
i read your thread as a great book splendid job

Now is the time to remove the wings adjusters and to save 10.9 gram more (13.5-2.6).

The final weight is 4,829 gram.

Best regards,

Isaac Najary

One more question, Isaac....which was does the dihedral on the canalizer go? I think I see the tips drooping on yours.

Isaac,

Is that typical to put the adjusters on just long enough to get the wing incidence set the way you want it and then remove them? For some reason, I always thought those were left on.

I'll tell you one thing I've learned from this thread... "Patience is a Virtue". I always bull ahead when building my planes. It's like buildng them is some kind of obstical in my way that needs to be cleared. This building season I'm going to slow down and see if I can't get a little closer to the perfection you've shown here with your Xigris build.

The canalizer on the C2 is intended to be mounted such that it has anhedral.

Chad

Hi Mike,

Once you are satisfied with the wing incidence you don't need the adjusters any more.

It is more rigid and lighter to use two carbon pins to prevent the wings movement.

You can always put back the adjusters in the future.

Best regards,

Isaac Najary

I have been exactly the same way. Lately (well OK when my motor was sent back for service and I couldn't fly my plane anyway) I have taken the time to setup, think, prepare, and work 1 step at a time with my repairs and building steps. It is VERY hard to be this patient with a new airframe, but the quality of the finished product is 10 fold. If you are patient, you will be well rewarded!

The Xigris is the plane I dream of [sm=spinnyeyes.gif]

Isaac,

I am wondering the purpose of using the long "thin" carbon tube after swapping out the adjusters.

thx.

Hi,

The carbon tube prevents the fuselage from getting squeezed when you force the wing pins against the fuselage.

Best regards,

Isaac Najary

Hey all,

Today I flew my Xigris, for the first time, with the new Hacker Q80-13S P20 with 20 X 10.5 Ulsamer prop.

I just sensed and confirmed what Bruno was talking about in his thread:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10086881/tm.htm

It flies so smooth with so much power and a great constant speed!

The penetration in strong wind conditions is better then my previous drive set Q80-11S P28 with 21 X 13W Ulsamer prop.

It is easier to maintain constant speed, as it does not change the speed due every incaution throttle movement up or down.
It seems to me like flying with or without EXP, maybe this drive set is the throttle EXP for the electric pattern aircraft.

I also saved 27 gram = (628+82)-(615+68).

I would like to remark and thank Mr. Ralph Schweizer from Modelltechnik for his superb service http://www.ralphschweizer.com/startseite.htm that enabled me to get the first motor from the Hacker production line.

And of course many thanks to Mr. Bruno, Mr. Günter Ulsamer and Mr. Rainer Hacker on the behalf of all the pattern community for developing this motor.

Best Regards,

Isaac Najary

Hi Isaac,

Thanks for sharing the information here, is this prop available to purchase, if so where from?

Many thanks,

Andy.

Hi Andy,

These props are available to purchase from Ulsamer:

[email protected]

Best regards,

Isaac Najary

Thanks Isaac!

Hi Najary
Thanks for the very interesting report. How does it break on downlines with this prop/motor combo?