Two day ago i start my new Project

Original



This will be my colorscheme



First i cut out the Front and rebuilt this to the old Series



all Details are missing yet



I has to modified the right transmission, to get some Space for the Canon. The room there is very small



The Basic of the Hull is done so far.



Looks like al little an Granti :P

I cut out of an old Pershing this little thing ( don´t know the exactly word for this in english, we call this Tankdeckel )



Then i buildt an little Case out of 2 mm Plasticsheed and fill this up, with Powerputty ( Pattex ). Then i push the Tankdeckel in there




At the Waiting Time i was building the Case for the Canon and fill this up with Resin, for make this stronger. Tommorow i will sand this to bring it more in Form



Hm, looks a little like an M3 :P

Thank you for sharing this build with us. You certainly got my attention with the way you modifed the front tranny cover. Nice approach for a three piece transmission.

Amazing as always. You have had my attention since I first saw you post...More please!

fuel cap

Volvospeed.......

You and I seem to to be twins that were separated at birth or something! We think alike when it comes to some tanks. Your North Africa collection has got me all fired up. This is my M3 that has been waiting for a paint job for about 4 years now. You have inspired me to finally finish it. I recently got two lower halves of the Mato VVSS suspension and plan to use one to convert my static Lee to R/C. I may have to make a new threepiece tranny cover, I'm not sure the original one is going to work.

I didn't totally scratch build mine, I started out with a cast resin upper body and made some improvements along the way (rivets). I also made an interchangeable Grant turret. I'll have to make interchangeable tool boxes too. It looks like desert sand is the only paint job that will work for both versions. Originally, mine was going to be "LuLuBelle" from the Bogart movie "Sahara". Maybe I still will do that.

I am going to enjoy following your progress.

Thx to all

Fuelcap *lol That was to easy

@Rex

Wow, that looks great. That´s now an inspiration for me now. 4 Years?! Damn, how can you make an so long brake on that?! Did you have more such Projects, what i need to know ?! If you don´t need this send it over to me, i will finnish this

Personally the Sherman does absolutely nothing for me, but the grant variation is definatelly an awesome looking model and Iwould be proud to put that in my collection...to bad Heng Long/Mato can't do a grant variation of their existing Sherman....</p>

ok, what was i doing yesterday.

First i put some struktur at some Parts



Bolts at the Chassies and modified the Boggies

Torro Original



It´s just an compromise, but it looks good and it works



A bit heavy to do was the holes, so i took an 1,5mm Brass Pieces



and made this hot



the rest i cut of



the front with details

Today i buildt the feders out of brass.



Holders



The right Fender fits with 4 Screws. If you remove the Screws you can come easly to the Sprocket Wheel





The left Bumper fit with the Top





Bumper finnished

Wow impressive amazing work especially with the brass!!

WOW

I learn stuff just looking at your pix!

Your skills are second to none brother. I wish I could do brass work like you.

Stunning, what craftsmanship.

WOW looks amazing.

Volvospeed.........

The texture of the casting on your transmission cover and the sponson main gun shield is amazing. I have never seen better. I look at your work and can't believe how crisp, clean and perfect everything is.

If you ever donate blood, send me some. Whatever there is in it .................I need some.

I say thank you to all

Update

so slowly goes sometimes in a few details. For this, however, also for the next projects I will bump over and over again into returning parts and there I no desire always have to carve the same things, I have made to myself easy forms.

First I was founded from 2 mm of HP of records the small cases which I filled in with power plasticine of Pattex. Under the before prepared old model I stuck a small clutch, virtually like a stamp even some dividing means sprayed on the component and pushed selbiges in the power plasticine. I provided the Klebeseite of the component, on this occasion, in such a way that it was level-shortly with the HP case. Now I allowed to harden my forms increases hours and concerned me, in the meantime, around the Kwk, however, in addition later.

After the forum was hardened I touched my Resin, according to manufacturer's data and mixed this substantially. Briefly before the Befüllen I moisten the surface of the little forms again with dividing means to be able to take the almost ready parts better from the form later.






For both forms or components reach, actually, 4 grammes, however, for safety's sake I always touch 6-8 grammes.



Then, finally, after a next hour I could take the first parts from the form.

Tataaaaaaaa



Now make up only every component 5 times and something and the things can be already obstructed groupwave

Further gings with the main arming. On my small Hutschelkutscheldrehbank is funny, er conical do not turn really feasibly, hence, I rummaged in the summer party through the assortment of Asiatam and got stuck with a panther's pipe in a good basket lay. nimmste sometimes with, because kannste what make out of that. Briefly measure, fits, turn away a little here and there (see red sketched line) and the pipe is ready.



In the aluminium pipe continuous 6 mm of drilling was already. I took a short-cut 6 mm of MS pipe suitably and stuck this approx. 20 mm deep in the aluminium pipe.



From approx. 23 mm Resin the full material which came from the leftovers box of Jens I was founded the roller. Brought first again on suitable length, I clamped the cylinder in the lathe and planned the surfaces on top and below from.

Unfortunately, Resin has the stupid quality if one liked to work on it with a Laubsäger which she seals immediately the sheet and nothing more goes, so what do?! There has to go on jedenfall 4 corners in the round *grübel2
I taped the surface to be worked out upon the block, stretched the part in my vice and bored in every corner first 2 mm of hole. Then I clamped to me a suitable drill (Dremel or Proxxon, I do not know any more exactly) in the state drill. On the drilling table I fastened with two vices a stable aluminium corner as a guidance and provided the way to be milled. So to speak, as impromptu Tischstandfräse. Now I needed only the vice along the aluminium rail slowly and steadily to move how a step engine to and fro. With the other hand I virtually adjusted the feed in Z-axis. In the kind and wise one I got a rather clean rectangular recess in the round Resinblöckchen.

Now the block directly after the relaxating, had to clean I only the edges with a file.



In the next tap dance I wanted to insert the roller for lateral directing of the KWK flexibly in the Kasematte, but anyhow the drill chuck of the accumulator power-operated wrench simply did not want there reinpassen *?!?



If I improvise just once more....


.... nevertheless, nevertheless, somewhere in my tool case I had, oh there isses



The best is if one simply disassembles the irritating part...



... and clamps in the accumulator drill as a lengthening, nicely claps also with the hole bore, without Qwick Qwick. I hate this good damn noise



OK, below in the roller I screwed and on top 1 M2 of screw, she protected with second glue and separated in each case the heads, was already swivelling wohohoho

Now, gings to the function Höhenrichten.

In addition I was founded for the moment from 1 mm of HP a semicircular little form, bored in front in the later screen 6 mm of hole and stuck together my pipe KWK in it. To straighten was very helpful, by the way, the grid lines of my guts mat.
In the case I poured Resin in again, waited to this was hardened and then removed both lateral HP of records.



On the left and right in the cradle 1.5 mm of hole bored, in the roller 4 mm of hole (Kofpdurchmesser of the screw) and then 1 m² of cheese-head screw screwed. The head of the screw serves me here as a storage. Because the part is not moved so often, I have renounced pipes MS as an additional storage. The mechanics from the inside seen. I become the Servos here later, in the course of the installation of the electronics mti plant.

Here for me interesting, above all the combining of the material is a metal HP and Resin. By pouring out different parts with Resin, a huge stability arises here in the easiest, but also most actual way.



and now thus the part looks from the front



Had I already mentioned, actually, that I have, in the meantime, already a few (hundred) rivets and Schraubimitate obstructed ones?

Thus the box looks at the moment





freedom of movement







and in the end updates still a small insignificant detail, fuel edges of the front records

I have to keep telling myself that this is not a kit you're assembling, it's all components you're scratchbuilding. Absolutely amazing work, and one of the tanks I would like the most. Perhaps Mato will sense the intense interest in Grants/Lees shown in this post, and finally pump one out on the Sherman chassis?

Mike.

Or perhaps out friend Volvospeed will start selling them himself???

Manuel,

Show the guys how you make the rivets. That will sure come in handy to most of the people on this site.

You are doing great! See I told you you would like this place!!


Don

Yeah, please show us how you do your rivets. They look perfect, and I need to improve on my rivets, and I hope your way of doing it is easier/faster than my way. Your models are really eye candy. [sm=regular_smile.gif]

@yellowshaker

Thats not a bad Idea, but first i have to find out , how i can do more pieces and faster, with same quality.

@all

allright here we go, it&acute;s easy to do some rivets, you just need an punch &amp; die set like this...

thats for "Hexagon"




and this for "round"



I don&acute;t know where you get it in the states. I just know it comes from plastic modellbuilder. In Germany each Punch &amp; Die Set cost 59 Euros.

So how you do this easy and quick, i made an movie

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VnrZxa3n5Rk[/youtube]

The Bolts are nails 1,1mm for hanging up some pictures to the wall

Volvospeed, they need to add soem new smiley's here, just for you...one with the smiley falling down comes to mind. Your work is simply awesome and inspiring! Please begin selling kits!
I also wanted to ask what kind of electronics you use for these tanks.Have you tried Elmod of tamiya for any of them?</p>

Thank&acute;s my friend

At the moment I still deal with details and still long not everybody are ready. Ordinarily I go forward Gradually and make a side after the others, here, nevertheless, this runs anyhow all over, as well as I just feel like.

Macroadmission

Duplicate MG in the bug

For the case I stuck together 2x2mm Poly records and worked on this with a drill (Proxxon) The MG's exist of 2 and 3 mm of brass pipes



Driver's hatches and small hatches



Camouflage lamp, lamp and signal horn. I provided the protective hanger from 0.5 mm of brass metal (soldered)



The curvature in the Kasematte on top is also new



Selfmade tank lids (knows lacquered to see like the surface will look) and stiffening metal (bronze metal)



the rear lamp is a modified Tamiya Sherman component. I have twisted the article about 90 degrees.



Airing grid



Furthermore I have many screws and rivets verbasteln again are able



However, the rear is not formed yet ready, there are still no still cultivation parts