I just returned from the annual Lebanon, PA swap meet today and I gotta tell ya, it's awesome! Seemed like 600 tables with everything and anything.

I was perusing a table that a fella had set a few engines, pipes and other accessories on when I spotted a box with two engines sitting off to the side. Both were MVVS 40's! One had a polished cylinder head and the other a nice bronze-brown anodized color.

I picked the latter one up and was surprised at the heft of the engine. Obvioulsy, hard metal casting and sound construction. I recently won a Morris Hobbies Balsa Nova off eBay and had read all about this engine on their website. I had resigned myself to using a S.T. 40 that I had on hand due to the cost of the MVVS, (new).

Well, when the fella running the table saw my interest in the engine he asked if he could answer any questions I might have. Naturally, all I could ask was, "How much?". "Twenty bucks each", was the reply so the engine rode home in my jacket pocket! Oh yeah, I got the header, pipe, clamp and silicon tube as well! The only reason I didn't buy 'em both was because the other was really "rough" in appearance and the exhaust port was quite blackened and the piston was seized in the sleeve. The one I bought was smooth and had lotza compression. The carb was all gummed up but that was quickly cured a few hours ago with 91% isopropyl alcohol.

So, my question(s) are:

1) Which MVVS did I buy? Standard, Quickee 500 or other?
2) Since this engine has obviously been run alot, will 10% SIG fuel be sufficient and safe? OR would 10% 4-stroke,(more oil) be better?
3) Since MA props aren't recommended, are Zingers, Rev-Up or others in the 10x6 range endorsed?

Thanks for the support!

PM

The quickie engine has the gold anodize head and prop drive.
You should have bought both. The other being stuck means not much if castor fuel has been used.
BTW, that fuel I would recommend. I do not know the composition of SIG fuel. MVVS engines do not like synthetic oil very much.

Why not use MA props? I use them extensively in combat, and find them excellent performers. I also used them on my old ST60 bluehead, and verticals were better than with Graupner airscrews. Much will depend on the plane/engine combo. PPl I gave one to try had to admit they did perform quite well, so...


ps
I have no commercial interest in MA, just can't stand undocumented myth.

Yeah, well hindsight IS 20-20, isn't it, LOL...

Anyway, the MA prop thingie was suggested by the gentleman from Israel in thread # 320/1000, post:2. I'm running a 14" MA on an ASP .91 mounted on my Ultra Stick 60 and it does perform well. I Ass-u-med that the MVVS, with all it's fuel idiosyncracies also had similar issues with prop selection :-).

So, my engine isn't the Quickee model then. No problem. I take it then that it is the "regular" .40 and I can now choose part #'s for reorder based upon that.

Many thanks for the feedback!

PM

Part numbers will be the same. The only difference in the quickie is the porting in the sleeve, and maybe the bearings, which will allow longer sustained high rpm.
You will be surprised by the very low and stable idle that engine is capable of.

I've been flying the MVVS in the Balsa Nova, just as the box art shows.

I removed the 2 ring head gaskets to run FAI fuel and the engine simply screams with the pipe. Nore than enough power to haul the light Balsa Nova all over the sky. Believe it or not, I get the best performance running an old Top Flite Super Maple 10x6 wooden prop! I acquired a box of these old "paddle-blade" props last Summer and have been most pleased with them. APC and Zingers aside, these older props still have lotza life in them.

My only nag is that the needle works out from vibration inflight. I constantly have to re-tweak after each flight. She richens up in the air. I cannot figure how to place a retainer on the barrel...no room. The part I ordered from Morris just doesn't fit. Other than this minor annoyance, I love my $25. engine and pipe.

PM

Normally, the rubber O-ring in the high speed needle should keep the needle put.
Check props for balance to avoid excessive vibration. Loosening of this needle is a rare problem. If that does not help, slip a piece of tubing over the needle and spraybar jacket.

The idle needle jacket can be modified with a single slit dremeled in. Then carefully reduce the jacket diameter with pliers until the needle thread is a tight fit.