I have a MVVS 45 aluminum case, that I traded for a while back (starting to regret that deal). The darn thing wont run now, its the one that the ring broke and I replaced, as well as the exploding muffler, and it is also the same brute with the stripped muffler bolt, [:@].
Here is what it is doing, full choke, half throttle, ignition on, flip till it pops, choke off, throttle to high idle, cycle ignition, flip will cough and run about 1.5 seconds and dies, nothing more. Now it wont even pop or cough.
So I pulled the fuel system out replaced all the tubing and its all A OK. Pulled carb cleaned everything thoroughly and all looks A OK, pulled reed valves and visibly they look good, no cracks or breaks, they do sit about half mm from the cage, but I guess this is normal when not under crank case pressures. I can rock against compression and it pulls fuel, so fuel delivery I don't expect as the culprit.
So I turned my attention to the ignition, pulled plug, put cap back on and held to engine head and ZAP got shocked OUCH LoL. I noticed the plug cap itself is not attached to the braided external sheath anymore.
Is it causing it to ground to the head and not deliver a spark at the plug electrode? And can it be fixed??? My guess is this little money pit is going to cost me for a new ignition isn't it??
My other MVVS 45 runs like a top, never missed a beat and is just awesome.

The braided part is the ignition ground. It should always be in contact with the engine mass. If not, the ignition may have failed. It can fried by high tension pulses if a earth return path is not present.
Restore the ground path in the cap, and check function. You may be lucky.
From your reports, it seems that this engine has seen quite some extra wear and tear in connecting the muffler and the ignition cable lay-out. Check the braided cable for further damage. Support the cable in such a way, that it cannot get damaged in any way.
fasten the muffler without gasket, and use some silicone RTV for tightness. If you do use a gasket, check the tightness when the engine is cold. The gasket tends to compress, and if loose, will damage the threads in the cylinder. For that reason, it is good to keep the cylinder studs well mounted using locktite.

Pe, I put a piece of 18 gauge wire to the plug cap (clamped it with a hose clamp) across to the braided wire. I was able to start it but again it is running for a few seconds maybe 15 then dies. I am able to spin it up with my big starter and it will again run for 15 or so seconds and die again, nothing more than this.
Fuel delivery seems on the money, so I still suspect the ignition unit, however the intermittent running has me at a loss???

try the ignition of your other engine. That will give you some clue whether the carb is OK or not. If it runs fine, then your ignition is gone, and needs replacing. I found repairs less than satisfactory most of the time.

Will do, thanks Pe!!!!

Just an FYI-
My EVOE26GT2 Type 2 Ignition Module failed with these symptoms:

-Module operates normally with input voltage 8.40-8.10.
-At around 8.00 volts module stops advancing the timing.
-Under 8.00 volts module intermittently fires with a very weak spark .

Regards,

Please explain "type 2" MVVS has had types 1,2,3,4,5 in succession.
Is it a Vlach EZM (6Vmax, 4NiMH), a MSR-L (>6.4V, 2 lipo), MSR-S(>6.4V, 2 lipo), or MSR-P (>9.6, 3 lipo)??

Pe,
This was some time ago and I really do not recall where "Type 2" came from. I basically just Cut/Paste the same description I sent to Horizon with the module for repair. The reason I added my experience to this Post is because I think this failure could really throw some people off. Yes, I realize I may be the only one this happens to, but maybe not. BTW-I was promptly sent a new module and I'm very pleased with my 26GT2. The new module I received was the same as the following except for the additional case grounding wire.

EVO3314L Ignition, ICU-L(Lite) 26GT2/35GT2
Power supply:
2x Li-Io/Li-Po 7.4 V
6x Ni-Cd/Ni-MH 7.2V (6- 8.4 V)

Regards,

OK,
The ICU-L (for lite) is the same as MSR-L, and is the ignition on the latest engines. I just was not sure wether Horizon had the -L version or the -S version on the 26 and 35 engines.
These ignitions will cease to operate bolow 6.4V, that is why 2S LiPo or equivalent 6xNiMH voltage is needed.