MVVS 6.5 identification
#1
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From: Albany,
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I have been given a MVVS 6.5 engine by that has a brown anodized head. The serial number under the motor mount flange reads #1896 on one side and the letter "R" on the other side. It has been completely rebuilt according to the previous owner who had it done in the Chech Republic. It has side exhaust. It also came with a tuned pipe and 2 different headers. Can you tell me what engine this is?
#2
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The engine is of the previous century 
If it is fully restored, treasure it. It probably is quite tight, and needs to be run with castor oil. Use 80/20, no nitro, or 2% max.

If it is fully restored, treasure it. It probably is quite tight, and needs to be run with castor oil. Use 80/20, no nitro, or 2% max.
#3
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Cat,
Can you please elaborate and post a couple of digi-photos, so we could see all the components?
What PĂ© says is true and today's engine parts are made by CNC machines, while the older ones were really hand made and fitted.
Can you please elaborate and post a couple of digi-photos, so we could see all the components?
What PĂ© says is true and today's engine parts are made by CNC machines, while the older ones were really hand made and fitted.
#4
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From: Albany,
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I will post a few pictures when I get off the road. I am a long haul trucker. The engine was given to me by my father-in-law, Peter Berg. Peter Berg is the "Berg" receivers. He is in his early 70's and sold his Berg product line to Castle Creations and has retired from the industry. Mr. Berg had the engine completely redone on his trip to the Chech Republic some years ago and the engine has never been run since. I have different 2 carb's fot it as well. It is very tight and has massive compression. I am thinking of putting it in the Great Planes 41" Yak54. I have the original box and paperwork as well.
#5
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From: Albany,
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These are taken with my cell phone inmy truck so are probably not the best. I will take some with my digi cam when I get home and post them.
#6
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Cat,
This seems to be the standard .40 engine.
The tuned silencer seems to be the mid-RPM #3248 (the #3246 is shorter and is intended for much higher RPM on the Quickie).
The carburettor on the engine is the older #3216, or #3219 (use a pair of vernier calipers to measure the internal diameter of the barrel... 7 mm is the standard size for the .40).
This carburettor may give you a pretty rich mid-range... MVVS replaced it with the new model that has an elaborate intake 'trumpet', a linear fuel-curve and no idle-stop screw. MVVS carburettors are rather inexpensive from abroad...
See photo.
An upgraded low-speed needle/nozzle set is also available for this carburettor, but it does half the job... The new carburettor is immensely better than the upgrade.
...The other (springy needle) carburettor is much worse and there are no parts...
It needs an [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_1850473/anchor/tm.htm#1850473]ABC type break-in[/link], with a lot of castor oil.
Use fuel with no nitro, or up to 5% max.
This seems to be the standard .40 engine.
The tuned silencer seems to be the mid-RPM #3248 (the #3246 is shorter and is intended for much higher RPM on the Quickie).
The carburettor on the engine is the older #3216, or #3219 (use a pair of vernier calipers to measure the internal diameter of the barrel... 7 mm is the standard size for the .40).
This carburettor may give you a pretty rich mid-range... MVVS replaced it with the new model that has an elaborate intake 'trumpet', a linear fuel-curve and no idle-stop screw. MVVS carburettors are rather inexpensive from abroad...
See photo.
An upgraded low-speed needle/nozzle set is also available for this carburettor, but it does half the job... The new carburettor is immensely better than the upgrade.
...The other (springy needle) carburettor is much worse and there are no parts...
It needs an [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_1850473/anchor/tm.htm#1850473]ABC type break-in[/link], with a lot of castor oil.
Use fuel with no nitro, or up to 5% max.
#7
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From: Albany,
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Would you know the part number for the new carb? And where I can get one? I have only been able to find a #3226 carb via Morrris Hobbies and it has a idle stop screw
#8
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Cat,
The new carburetor has the same number as the old one; #3216.
The #3226 carburettor is intended for rear-mounting in the rear intake GRRT engine.
This engine is no longer made and MVVS may still have some of these carburettors in stock, but it will not fit onto your engine anyway.
MVVS dealers who respond in this forum have some new #3216 carburettors in stock, however.
The new carburetor has the same number as the old one; #3216.
The #3226 carburettor is intended for rear-mounting in the rear intake GRRT engine.
This engine is no longer made and MVVS may still have some of these carburettors in stock, but it will not fit onto your engine anyway.
MVVS dealers who respond in this forum have some new #3216 carburettors in stock, however.
#9
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From: Albany,
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I am thinking of running Morgan Cool Power FAI or 5 % fuel. Would this be a good choice for this engine? I run Morgan fuels in all my other airplanes and heli's.
#10
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StrayCat,
MVVS specify for this engine, 20/80 fuel, i.e. 20% castor oil and 80% methanol...
This is actually not necessary and you can use any fuel sold in the USA, as long as it isn't all synthetic and that you add oil to it, for a balance of 20% 50/50 oil.
Morgan Fuels specify their own [link=http://www.morganfuel.com/omega_main.htm]Omega™[/link], which has 17% 30/70 oil (30% castor, 70% synthetic) as their recommended fuel for tapered-bore engines. Add 3% Morgan CleanCastor™, or Klots BéNOL™ for general running and 8% of this stuff [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/Tapered%2DBore_Engine_Break%2Din_%2D_Upgraded/m_1850473/tm.htm]for the first two break-in tanks[/link].
CruelPower... is all synthetic and not of the same quality as those available from CooperFuels, or Fuchs and Motul in Europe.
Don't use it in this engine... It would run like a dog for seemingly no reason at all...
Other fuels you can use 'out of the box'; are Sig Champion™ and PowerMaster GMA™.
MVVS specify for this engine, 20/80 fuel, i.e. 20% castor oil and 80% methanol...
This is actually not necessary and you can use any fuel sold in the USA, as long as it isn't all synthetic and that you add oil to it, for a balance of 20% 50/50 oil.
Morgan Fuels specify their own [link=http://www.morganfuel.com/omega_main.htm]Omega™[/link], which has 17% 30/70 oil (30% castor, 70% synthetic) as their recommended fuel for tapered-bore engines. Add 3% Morgan CleanCastor™, or Klots BéNOL™ for general running and 8% of this stuff [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/Tapered%2DBore_Engine_Break%2Din_%2D_Upgraded/m_1850473/tm.htm]for the first two break-in tanks[/link].
CruelPower... is all synthetic and not of the same quality as those available from CooperFuels, or Fuchs and Motul in Europe.
Don't use it in this engine... It would run like a dog for seemingly no reason at all...
Other fuels you can use 'out of the box'; are Sig Champion™ and PowerMaster GMA™.
#11
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From: Albany,
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Thanks for the info, I normally use cool power 30% in my Heli's and omega 15% in my airplanes, except my Saitos seem to like the Cool Power 30%. I will use the Omega 5% in the MVVS with the additions you recommended.
#12
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OK, StrayCat.
But take note; if your LHS carries Sig Champion, or PM GMA fuel, you will not have to do any brewing and mixing by yourself...
You could safely use these fuels right out of the jug.
They should not cost much more than Omega™...
But take note; if your LHS carries Sig Champion, or PM GMA fuel, you will not have to do any brewing and mixing by yourself...
You could safely use these fuels right out of the jug.
They should not cost much more than Omega™...



