john cirri

Thanks alot, Do you have the yellow/black one, If so, The Pic of it on the Nitro site shows the cowl isn't drilled out, But the Red one show's it is, To me it look's like the red one is more finished, Is that true. thanks

antiquefer

Fokkerfreak. If my rx, and battery were any farther forward they would be on the other side of the firewall. Moveing that stuff forward is always my first course of action when trying to get more noseweight. Adding weight is evil. Knowing then what i know now I would have moved the rudder, and ail servos fprward, and still may. There is plenty of wing area to support the extra weight I will add to ballance.

antiquefer

John Cirri. Mine is the Black, and yellow one. The cowel is drilled for eng prop shaft , and cooling holes. There are two different arf kits. When you look at the pic of the parts, mine has the parts of the red one, but is the other one. I think its a great arf kit. The only things I didnt care for is the elev system. I prefer to operate each half independantly. The other thing is the placement of the tail serface servos. I think if they were forward in the fuse there wouldnt be a need to add weight to ballance. Both are easly changeable. They could have added a dummy eng too.

john cirri

Thanks so much for that info, I have the GP 61" one, It flys great with the ST 90 up front, It's that i spent extra time doing it up like the one up in Rhinebeck N.Y and fly it 3-4 time's through the season only, So i'd like another one fo flying every weekend, I would move all servo's up front, You don't want servo's in the back of a dr1, thanks much.

antiquefer

John. I have the GP DR1 also, and it flies great as well. I have a Saito 91 in it. What did you do for wing skids. I made mine look like ax handels, which is what was used on the full scale one. I fly mine every weekend that the weather will allow. Yours must have oodles of power with that power up front, mine has more than it needs with the 4 stroker.

john cirri

Yup plenty of power, But the bigger Engine help's mostly for balance, Take's off and flys 1/2 throttle, The thing with getting the NM one, Shipping $36 to NJ ouch.

john cirri

I'm not using skid's, KNOK ON WOOD at least 25 flight's and no ground looping, I would make some little axe handles like yours for mine though. I'll need them one day, And they"ll look good too.

antiquefer

I fly from a landscaping kind of fabrick, prety slipery. There is also grass on either side of the strip. If I dont put it down on the grass it will almost always groundloop. I have yet to make a landing on the fabrick where one of the wing skids didnt touch. 12 flights. Grass is no problem, but is narrow, and edged by brush. It will land so slow it almost never ends up in a noseover, and even then there hasnt been any dammage. For the wing skid mounts I opened up the last bay on the wing and glued in some plywood between the last two ribs. I bent some brass 1/4" wide flatstock around the ax handeles with a mounting flange. Two brackets per skid. These are wood screwd to the ply in the wing. The ax handeles are basicly 1/4" dowel, but I am thinking of carving little ax handeles from hardwood. The GP version is a much better arf than the NP. But when they were makeing them they were over twice the price. Fortunatly mine was given to me. I wish GP would rerelease it. With smaller $ tag of course.

john cirri

I'll try to send a pic of mt GP dr1

antiquefer

Great pic. Just like mine except the Horrizontal stab and elev. Mine is sollid red. Did you change yours or did it come that way? I cant post photos. But If you go to kitsaparcs.org which is my club sight, and click on featured model you can see it.

john cirri

I did the black/white, and the cloud w/heart.

john cirri

Did your NM dr1 Have the wood cockpit or the plastic cover, I don't like the look of the plastic one.

john cirri

Nitrostaff1, Can you shed some light on the balance of the dr1, Alot of people are saying it's not in the Instructions.

antiquefer

John. Mine has a wood bottom cockpit. The ballance point is 58mm from the leading edge of wing. It doesnt specify what wing. It has to be the top wing.

john cirri

Thanks for helping me out, I'm about a week away from finishing my cox/pica 1/6th Waco bipe, Then i"ll order it.

john cirri

The purpose of the long Engine box is to counter balance for the wieght of the servo's and wire's in the back, My thought is to move all servoe's up front, And cut the box off, and mount the engine flush with the firewall, With only moding the cowel, And maybe a different fuel tank, I just ordered it, Didn't want to take the chance of going out of stock. jc

antiquefer

Sounds like a good plan. Mabe you should move srevos, then check ballance befor cutting off box just in case forwaqrd servo location dont do it. I think that would be a great mod caus the cowel looks way to long. I think I would also consider useing Pull-pull wires for tail surfaces. Rudder for sure. Might save more weight in the tail. Looks great too. What if any, dummy engine are you going to use? How about the guns?

john cirri

Williams brothers has gun's, and dummy's, You only need 3 cyl to stick out the bottom of the cowl, I have a ST.75 that will go in (Cyl head on top) mounted, It has a swing muffler, So i can point it straight down inside the cowl like I did with the GP version, Just 1 hole on top for the Ni-starter and 1 for needle valve, Once i get the kit in front of me, I'll figure thing's out, I should have it Friday!!!.

john cirri

I was just on the Tower Hobbies site, They have the Gun's and Dummy Engine for the GP dr1, I might have to wait till it show's up before i buy them, The GP dummy has 4 cyl out the bottom.

antiquefer

Flew my new NP DR1 again with proper ballan point. Flies fine, but could take out only half of the down trim I had to put in on the first flight.? checked the incidences, and found the top wing is 4 degrese more posative than the other ones. Wish I. would have checked this befor I stareted the build. Might have been able to correct it. I put a 3/32 shim under the front of the horrizontal stab. hope this will get the down trim more neutral. Havent flown it inverted yet, but I dont think it will be good. Anyone else flown this plane yet?.............................antiquefer

john cirri

Did you balance it by the top wing or mid, My GP dr1 is 68mm back on the middle wing, I wold think it is, The instructions are very weak, But by the profile drawing look's like the mid wing.

antiquefer

On first flight I had it ballanced 58mm back from LE of mid wing. Waaaaaaaaaaaaay tailheavy! I reballanced it from top wing with much better results.

john cirri

But the top wing is more forward from the middle wing, So it would make it more tail heavy using the top wing Than the middle wing,I think it's the middle, If your first flight was the middle wing, And you say it was way too tail heavy, Using the top wing would make it Much more tail heavy, Thats what makes no sence.

antiquefer

If you look at the wings from one side or the other the TE of the bottom wing, and the LE of the top wing make up the chord. If the measurment is 58mm back from the LE of the top wing then, if it is measured from the middle wing that puts it closer to the middle of the combined chord. The farther back on the chord the plane ballances the more tailheavy it will fly.

bild

My instructions for the NP-DR1 shows chinese lettering next to the CG measurement which translates to "top wing" what I would like to know is aproximately how much weight did you have to add to the nose and how you added it. Thanks, Stan