NP Cap 232 engine size
01-15-2008, 11:42 AM
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NP Cap 232 engine size
I bought a Cap 232 several months ago and looks like I'll finally get around to build (next on list). I've read the thread on here about the wing snap, but I have to tell you I'm impressed with the quality of this kit so far. The covering is almost perfect even after sitting in the box for several months, I see no damage to the wings (hard to tell glue joints without removing covering) but everything is solid, no flex or broken ribs or disbond that I can tell. I'll reinforce gear and firewall but my real question is I have a choice of engines to put on I have a Supertigre 61, I have the new ST 75, or I have an older 90 surpass four stroke.
Looks like going to have to build some kind of servo tray for the ailerons but other then that it looks like a straight foward easy build.
Good job NP this is my first kit from them but I have a feeling it wont be my last.
Looks like going to have to build some kind of servo tray for the ailerons but other then that it looks like a straight foward easy build.
Good job NP this is my first kit from them but I have a feeling it wont be my last.
01-15-2008, 01:48 PM
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RE: NP Cap 232 engine size
Ok you got one of the Evergreen ARFs.
The ST .61 will be more than fine for that plane. It should balance out great with that engine.
If you find it wanting ( which I doubt ) you could change the .61 out for the .75 at a later date as the mounting, etc is exactly the same.
Some note:
The tail is sort of wide and not well supported internally ( look at the cross braces ). It may break in hard manouvers or at worst flex.
You should install CF struts or take other measures to make the elevator more sturdy.
I used Dubro exit slots on mine, which make the back look much better and act to hold the rods well.
BTW: There are holes on either side for a PULL-PULL rudder. Uses this instead of the provided rod.
You may have found an unexplained triangular stock block of wood amoung the parts.
I found that this fits just above the wing hold down blind nuts and when epoxied in acts to re-inforce this area.
If you received 2 CA hinges for each elevator half, use three instead.
Forgo the provided tail gear, purchase a half dozen .60 sized tail wheels ( as parts ) from Tower for $1.98 ( including aluminum wheel! ) I believe they are provided as parts for the Skybolt.
Make sure that you glue the two wing halfs FIRMLY together. A bit of glassing may be a good thing...
I've got tip guards on mine as well.
Are your wheel pants made of plastic of fiberglass?
---
BTW: The CMP Giles 202 is MUCH better! Particularly the Version 2 kits. ( Someone was listening to us! ).
CF gear and rods, aluminum bell cranks for the rudder, pin hinges which are pre slotted and drilled, well supported elevator, great finish, etc...
The ST .61 will be more than fine for that plane. It should balance out great with that engine.
If you find it wanting ( which I doubt ) you could change the .61 out for the .75 at a later date as the mounting, etc is exactly the same.
Some note:
The tail is sort of wide and not well supported internally ( look at the cross braces ). It may break in hard manouvers or at worst flex.
You should install CF struts or take other measures to make the elevator more sturdy.
I used Dubro exit slots on mine, which make the back look much better and act to hold the rods well.
BTW: There are holes on either side for a PULL-PULL rudder. Uses this instead of the provided rod.
You may have found an unexplained triangular stock block of wood amoung the parts.
I found that this fits just above the wing hold down blind nuts and when epoxied in acts to re-inforce this area.
If you received 2 CA hinges for each elevator half, use three instead.
Forgo the provided tail gear, purchase a half dozen .60 sized tail wheels ( as parts ) from Tower for $1.98 ( including aluminum wheel! ) I believe they are provided as parts for the Skybolt.
Make sure that you glue the two wing halfs FIRMLY together. A bit of glassing may be a good thing...
I've got tip guards on mine as well.
Are your wheel pants made of plastic of fiberglass?
---
BTW: The CMP Giles 202 is MUCH better! Particularly the Version 2 kits. ( Someone was listening to us! ).
CF gear and rods, aluminum bell cranks for the rudder, pin hinges which are pre slotted and drilled, well supported elevator, great finish, etc...
01-16-2008, 01:00 PM
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RE: NP Cap 232 engine size
I have the plastic wheel pants, Still need cut out where the wheels go (I may not even put them on, haven't decided yet.)
Definately goin with the pull pull rudder, probably going to go with 2 elevator servos (I just dont like connecting rod method.
I was planning on using my own hardware(carbon fiber rods) I almost never use whats in the kit...just my prefrence.
Good advice on joining the wing halves, amount of hinges, and tail reinforcement. Definatley needs a diffrent tail wheel assy but all in all not really a big deal at all. Hoping to start build this weekend.
The CMP giles 202 v2, Man thats a trim scheme you either love or hate.........I dont love it
Leaning toward the 61 for my motor we'll see what the weight is looking like as I build.
Definately goin with the pull pull rudder, probably going to go with 2 elevator servos (I just dont like connecting rod method.
I was planning on using my own hardware(carbon fiber rods) I almost never use whats in the kit...just my prefrence.
Good advice on joining the wing halves, amount of hinges, and tail reinforcement. Definatley needs a diffrent tail wheel assy but all in all not really a big deal at all. Hoping to start build this weekend.
The CMP giles 202 v2, Man thats a trim scheme you either love or hate.........I dont love it
Leaning toward the 61 for my motor we'll see what the weight is looking like as I build.
01-16-2008, 01:11 PM
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RE: NP Cap 232 engine size
I thought I would hate it, but once I had the plane together it sort of grew on me.
I would have never-the-less preferred something else.
Still, it's a nice ARF. Much easier to put together than the Everygreen ARFs as there is far less "fiddley" stuff needed.
Yeah the plastic pants are a pain, since epoxy and CA doesn't adhere to them. I ended up just using a larger light ply backing & screws to put them on after cutting out the holes to permit the installation of much larger wheels.
I also used the Dubro exit hole plastic inserts on the tail to dress up the holes that you are supposed to cut out.
This gives the rods & the pull-pull a smoother travel area while providing additional support, so there is less flex on the rods and no binding on the pull-pull. It looks nicer too.
I'm now finishing up the Goodrich Extra 300 60. I have an ST .61 in that too.
I would have never-the-less preferred something else.
Still, it's a nice ARF. Much easier to put together than the Everygreen ARFs as there is far less "fiddley" stuff needed.
Yeah the plastic pants are a pain, since epoxy and CA doesn't adhere to them. I ended up just using a larger light ply backing & screws to put them on after cutting out the holes to permit the installation of much larger wheels.
I also used the Dubro exit hole plastic inserts on the tail to dress up the holes that you are supposed to cut out.
This gives the rods & the pull-pull a smoother travel area while providing additional support, so there is less flex on the rods and no binding on the pull-pull. It looks nicer too.
I'm now finishing up the Goodrich Extra 300 60. I have an ST .61 in that too.
