I recently bought the Cap 232 Breitling 60. It did not come with any instructions. I don't even know the CG! How do I get a copy of instructions for this kit? Also, what are any tips in getting this airplane to fly well? Any and all information would be appreciated.

Queasyflier
(Ken Gutwein)

Have you put together many ARF's before?

Yes, I have. However this one seems to have some issues........have you built/flown it?

Queasyflier

I have well over 20 of the Nitro Planes ARFs now.

The one you are looking at is one of their "Evergreen" models.

You can eyeball the C.G. by placing it between 25% to 30% from the LE against the fuse. Start around the 25% mark and work back.

As far as building it, it was my hope that you've put together plenty of ARF's so you wouldn't need the manual.

I'd suggest looking at the manuals for similiar planes if you need build tips and how to's.

Otherwise the planes are relatively straight forward.

I ALWAYS start with the engine and cowl, which makes it easier to manhandle the fuse as you work with it.

Hopefully you already know the cardboard trick, etc. to get the proper hole placements...

CA the holes you make in Fiberglass to prevent cracking and the fiberglass coming off after the fact.

Re-inforce the gear area whenever possible.

Change out the taiwheell...

Check this thread for a good replacement: [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6964577/anchors_7060900/mpage_2/key_/anchor/tm.htm#7060900]CLICK ME![/link]

Use good "soaking" technique on the hinges.

Harden all screw to wood areas with CA...

If there is sideways play on any control rod, try to limit it by making a small wooden rod guide to prevent this. Sideways play will turn into flutter at speed.


That's all that comes to mind at the moment.

Thanks for the tips....I've already integrated them in my building of the model. What do you mean by "changing out the tail," though? Do I have to sheet the open frame stabilizer and elevators? Sounds like a lot of work. Also, do I need a guide for the long wooden rod to the elevators, or would a solid servo arm connection prevent this dreaded flutter? I don't want the small stabilizer to break off during flight.

Thanx,
Queasyflier

I think he means change out the tail wheel... they are kinda[:'(]

Yeah I meant to say "tailwheel"... I'm still not typing properly after my last incident with a propeller many months ago...

Flutter is when the control surfaces occillate rapidly while the plane is moving at high speed.

If the control rods can move from side to side, the surfaces will move up and down in turn, and you'll get a flutter condition.

You want to prevent sideways movement of the long control rods.

The connection to the servo arm is not what causes the problem. Think of a string on a guitar or piano... it moves from side to side... so can the long rods.

By circling them with light ply "guides" you can minimize or prevent side to side movement.

This is very easy to do, just cut a hole in a small thin square 1" sheet of wood. and epoxy against the formers... just make sure the rods can travel back and forth freely.

Thanks for your input! I've had concerns about this Nitro kit which came without instructions. Their support line has not been helpful.
I'm thinking of mounting an OS .61FX and a Futaba 6 channel computer radio with standard servos. Do you think this would work on this plane?

Queasyflier

The "support" number is really to deal with service issues... e.g. you are missing a part... and that's about it.

They are box and go. Great for us who don't need help....

That combination will do VERY well.

The FX is a light engine but it produces ample power for this plane.

A set of standard servos all around will do fine.

Your biggest weight penalty will be the battery, so don't over do it. I prefer a larger battery so I'd opt for a 1200 to 1400mAh battery which lets me fly all day.

Put the plane together with everything but the battery in place, mark the location where you want the C.G.

Balance the plane on a balancer or two dowels with pencil erasers on the end... then position the battery on the plane until it comes level... you'll then know where in the fuse to put the battery. Once known, put the battery along the side of the fuse opposite the muffler to offset any lateral imbalance.

I HIGHLY recommend, ( and did I mention that I HIGHLY recommend... ) that once you have the plane FULLY finished, you remove the canopy and spray the entire plane with light successive coats of fuel proof clear coat...

Top Flight Clear coat will work fine.

Do this after shrinking any wrinkles, fixing decals, etc.

This will seal the edges of the trim and covering. That will prevent fuel from leaching in under the seams.

Fuel will dissolve the covering adhesive used on the Fly, CMP and Evergreen models, over time... causing the covering and/or trim to start to come off.

This little preventative measure will eliminate this... DO IT, it's well worth the slight effort.

Never spray it on clear plastic ( it will become opaque ), but it's safe to spray on everything else.

Hi;
Thanx for you tips on the CAP 232. I'll need nose weight for proper CG. Would a Highley Heavy Hub prop nut on the OS.61 be acceptable?
Not too much weight for the front bearing? I did Krylon the entire airplane, hope that stuff is fuel proof!

Best,
Queaesyflier

Make SURE that you let the clear coating dry completely.

This may take days.

A few people have reported problems with Krylon coming off the covering. Others seem to use it w/o incident.

The ones that seem to have no problems permit it to dry for a week or more before exposing it to fuel.

I've used Top Flite on every plane and also let it dry for at least a week.



Re: Nut

No that will not be problematic.

I've used it on .50 engines and above.