prop dust 1

Thanks 7007 I will look at these servos. Thanks for Info. prop dust 1

DCoy70

Guys these are the weights of the plane, completely done:
Fuse: 16.02
Left: 2.01
right: 2.04

Overall Weight: 20.07 Lbs
This is using an RCGF 62cc and a huge 6.0V 3800 sub c for the ingition. Also 2 fromeco lion with dual regs. Also carbon wing tube from TBM.

Bobzilla, what was your final weight?

flyer7007

My Feedback: (20)

Hey T3beatz.
Thanks for the information and I will consider them when I get my new SU-26 and my 65cc from piston. If you have to add nose weight anyway you might as well do it with horsepower as the motor is the component that is the farthest forward in the airframe and will affect the wing loading the least. I also couldn’t agree with you more about what you said about the servo torque and the plain size. I feel bad for the guys who are just coming into this hoddy and read the parts needed list in there manuals and find out there going to have to buy a recommended DA 50 or larger, and futaba or JR servos that are $109.00 each and all the other crap they recommend. The flying weight for these planes should only be between 15 to 22 pounds from 75to 87 inches wingspans, maybe a little bigger if you can keep the weight down. I have flown unlimited precision IMAC in the past and have become very knowledgeable about Wing loading, CG and Thrust Problems. I am currently flying a Wild hair edge 84� With high-tech 645MGs A Great plains yak 81� with high-tech 645MGs and a Dietrich 260 with 5645MG digitals all running on 6V. I fly hard aerobatics with them all. Blenders, Walls, full power waterfalls, and all kinds of hard Rolling maneuvers. The only servo failure I have ever had was with a 645MG in the rudder with my Edge, I just doubled them up, problem solved. I am a true believer that many times the maneuver is at its highest stress then you first enter in it, and how you exit it, that sudden deflexion. Is the servo under stress during a violent maneuver, of course it is. But once you get up around 220in oz of torque what is stronger the servo or the airframe? I think the Futaba and JR servos are over rated because of the name and lets remember just about 3 years ago a certain company named “Dxxxxx Axxxxxx� said they didn’t have to worry about a motor coming out of Chine lol “ they do now�. There are other good and new companies out there making good products, we just have to give them a chance.
Keith.

DCoy70

Flyer, do you think the 20.07lbs is ok on this plane?

That is what the calc gives: 34.668825910931176

flyer7007

My Feedback: (20)

Hey prop dust take a look at T3beatzs post in the previous page. HD9150s for $33.80 each with 220oz/in of torque at 6v. That’s even better; he has the link there to.
Keith

flyer7007

My Feedback: (20)

If thats the weight ballanced, and ready to go you should be fine.

DCoy70

What should be a good wing loading number for an IMAC plane?, Im going to make an attempt at beginner this year.

BTW this is the one I found, dont know if this calc is correct tho:http://www.gsal.org/tools/Wing_Laoding.htm

flyer7007

My Feedback: (20)

Dcoy70 did you laterally balance the plane also??
Keith

DCoy70

No I have yet to fly it, some dont really know any other way to balance it lateraly, I use the Great Planes CG machine, but lateraly there is no way to use it. [:@]

flyer7007

My Feedback: (20)

Those calculators are very good, Just keep in mind that if you are going to fly precision Imac
I would go with an extra300 series maybe an S or an L or an Edge probably would be better. Those yaks and similar planes with the large amounts of wing loading are great for 3D but are not the best tracking planes out there, and are not good in the wind.They are also hard to move the CG aroung in, meaning they are not very sensitive around the CG. You will find the guys who have some experience are moving things around to change the way the plane is tracking to accomodate the weather conditions. If you would like I will give you my phone # and help you when I can.

DCoy70

Please do, I have another project and would not want to make a mistake on that one. My email: [email protected]

flyer7007

My Feedback: (20)

Dcoy70
All you have to do to balance the plane laterally is to get a friend to put his fingers under the rudder and you hold the tip of the prop straight up off compression where the prop is free and you both lift the plane about 3 inches off the ground at the same time. The wings will fall to one side; just add weight to the high wing tip until it balances and your done.
Keith

sgoen

My Feedback: (5)

Does anyone have any pics on where they mounted the rx??

Mr.FiberOptic

i think i read somewhere that you should keep the receiver as far away from the ignition battery as possible? and the ignition switch away from the other switches and stuff? does that sound right?

DANG airwild doesn't mess around they got my order processed right away with paypal as payment. shipped and already tracking with ups and on the way.

got an invoice in pdf format in email immediately.

got 4 Futaba servo arms ordered for the TS-150 servos and satisfied with the order process at airwildhobbies.com

even answered my email question right away.

T3beatz

My Feedback: (4)

Yes you should keep the Switch and the RX away from the ignitions Switch and battery. On most planes they have places to mount the switches on opposite sides of the fuse.

flyer7007

My Feedback: (20)

Mr.FiberOptic
If you are flying FM-PCM, you need to keep your ignition, switch and battery at least 12� away from your RX receiver, Battery, all servos and wiring. The rule of thumb is 12 to 18�. I put my ignition on the left side if the motor box My Battery on the top or on the right and cut my switch in the bottom front. That always gives me plenty of distance between my ignition system and the system of my airfrane, so keep you throttle servo away from the engine box also.
If you are flying 2.4 Ignore the 12 to 18� rule and put things where ever you wont. It’s all about the noise put out by the ignition that carries through its entire system.
Keith.

prop dust 1

Thanks Guys as you can tell this is my frist gas plane I will not be in 3D flying any time soon just want a good flying plane some smoke and do what I can I have a book from DONS hobby on big gas flying But trying to put all the wairing in right place sewitch in right spot I DONT KNOW I dont wont to cause A PROBLEM is small toggle sewitch ok for motor and is one HD9150 ok for the rudder for spot flying THANKS for your help GUYS. prop dust 1

flyer7007

My Feedback: (20)

Hey Prop Dust,
I would think one in the rudder for sport would be fine, But I would ask T3beatz he is the one who told me about these servos, and Further up in this forum I was just agreeing with him about aircraft size and servo torque. He has probably has used these servos, and knows a lot more about the new avionics systems than I do. He seems like a nice guy and very knowledgeable. I would think he would help you with these questions if you asked him.

T3beatz

My Feedback: (4)

Hey prop dust 1,

Yes, I think one HD9150 would be enough for the rudder for sport flying, I had one of the Power HD-2550A's Rated at 165oz of torque on the rudder of my 30% yak and it flew fine, I could knife edge all day long! The 9150 is digital with a lot more torque so that means it will have more holding power than the 2550 analog one. And like I said if you still don't think you have enough you can always stack 2 of them, and still be a lot less than the Big Name ones...

As far as the switch for the motor goes you would be best to get a more Heavy duty one. I'm not saying that the standard size ones wont work, just be on the safe side because of the draw from the ignition mod.

Check these out from hobby city, This type of switch anywhere else would cost you 15.00 or more dollars!
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s.../System_Switch

Need servo extensions go here also... I've used these in all my planes and never have had a problem, same as the way more expensive name brand ones just at a better price...
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...6&v=&sortlist=

Its always great to buy a lot of stuff at a time from hobby city because of the shipping. With that said, the shipping is not that bad at all. They have a warehouse in the U.S but it is not fully functioning yet, it only has some of the stock. Check through at all the prices of some of the stuff and you will be amazed how overpriced some of the stuff here in the U.S is. (like the glues, I've bought some from hobby city and its just as good as the mercury stuff for less than half the price!)

T.J.

Mr.FiberOptic

t3beatz that switch shows a female charge plug connector and the DSC switches i ordered have a male charge plub connector. did you have to change the plug or use a charge lead adapter on that?

i wonder if there is a way that i can put an LED on the DSC switches? any idea's on how to do that?

FOOPED

My Feedback: (8)

Sent the bucks today FiberOptic say what are you radioes on If you are 2.4 the HD 9150 servo I have will not work I know the CS and TS work good on 2.4 have not been able to get an answer as to why the HD 9150 will not hold center when the receiver is turned on crazy it goes full 90 degrees. The rep. replies it should work. Do'nt help me none. I will send this one back. I will stay with the hitec and TS and CS .

prop dust 1

Thank you T3BEATZ, for your help I have A lot to buy for the su 26, would be nice to buy from one place. Ihave A 50cc motor hope it will be ok for sport flying, DO i need a airfilter for motor I will be flying off my ultralight run way GRASS. I never hear any one talk about airfilters for the gasers THANK YOU prop dust 1

T3beatz

My Feedback: (4)

Hows it going today guys,

Mr. FirberOptic, yes the switch does show the female port of the charge plug, I noticed that also. Simple fix is just to make an adapter (male to male) witch they sale the male leads with no female ends on them for .79 cents grab two and there you go!

and you can put an LED on the output leads of the switch, just like you would install a lighting system to turn on when the switch is on. Just mount the LED Near the switch. Get an LED with the right power rating and there you go...

Fooped,
your problem with the Power HD 9150 is a first, How many of the 9150's that you have do this? I myself have never heard of this problem before. Of all the guys I've talked with or seen that have the HD 9150's and 2.4ghz do not have this problem, or have not stated that they do. Reading through all the reviews on Hobby City also I see none. Like I've said before the servo will only move if the battery/receiver gives it power to move, And I'm not saying your system is faulty at all, just could be with that one servo. I would exchange it and try another to see the results, and if a new one does the same thing then it may Just be a compatibility issue with your 2.4ghz 7Cap system...

Oh, and be on the lookout for the Hyperion Servos... DS-20 FMG, DS-20 UMD, etc... Just as much power but digital and Coreless.

T.J.

T3beatz

My Feedback: (4)

Naw, you shouldn't need one, with most gassers the carb is inside the cowling protected from the elements... I fly off of grass at my field also, with R/C cars its different because they ride around in the dirt all day, but with planes they spend the majority of there time in the air where its mostly clean.

T.J.

Mr.FiberOptic

fooped if its a FASST futaba 2.4Ghz read this and ask futaba if this issue is related at all with your problem.

Futaba 6EX, 7C and TM-7 Service Advisory http://2.4gigahertz.com/techsupport/...m7-7c-6ex.html

i was planning on buying the futaba 7 channel 2.4Ghz FASST spread spectrum with just the receiver at towerhobbies.com for about $279

i have the metal gear TS-150 193oz.in. torque at 6volts for the ailerons and elevators and a TS-69 standard for the throttle and was planning on buying another TS-69 for the choke.

and planning on buying 1 of the tungsten gear CS-170 for the rudder at 333oz.in. torque at 6volts. i had 2 TS-150 for the rudder but decided on using just 1 CS-170 instead so i have 2 extra TS-150 servos i'm not using.

oh, i also asked futaba if the 2.4Ghz will interfere with my pacemaker and they said it won't and my cardiologist comfirmed it .