Order Number: 671616.

yhst-17210252890263-100882

1 NitroModels RC Airplane Sports Trainer .46- .60 - 65" - Scale Nitro Gas Radio Remote Control Airplane
<font color="#00265e">http://www.nitroplanes.com/stevtr.html</font>

I need info on What servos to buy. I need 4. I also need to know what spinner and prop to buy for this plane.

Also I got the motor mounts but all the screws that came with it are to big. None will screw in to the the firewall. Or does the correct hardware for the firewall come with the motor? I have not bought a motor for it yet.

The last thing is the plug and hardware that came is stripped out. It will not tighten to seal the gas tank.

Thanks. You guys are great, Kevin.

P.S. What battery and charger should I buy for the reciever in the plane? I'm set on the tx. <span class="info">

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Normally the screws that go into the blind nuts for fixing the motor mount to the firewall comes with the plane.

However this is something that you can easily find at a local hardware store, which may be the quickest way to deal with it and keep you going on your build.

I'm sure that John ( Nitrostaff1 ) can send you a suitable set as well.

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As far as the "stripped" items for the fuel tank... are you talking about the backplate that squishes the stopper, thus forming the seal?

John can send you are replacement. Please be sure to PM him your order number and reference this thread.

If you have a LHS around you can often find stopper kits there too.

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On the other thread you asked about what servos to use.

Standard servos will be fine on this plane. Set the linkages on both the servo horns and the control surface horns about mid way.

User your TX to adjust overall throw.

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Re: Battery

Which TX are you using?

Sometimes the receiver you use affects the choice of battery packs.

In turn the receiver you use is affected by which transmitter you are using.

Assuming you do use standard servos, I would put in a 1200mAh or 1600mAh pack.

This should last you through a good 7 to 8+ long flights with a comfortable margin for extended time.

If you were to use higher torque servos, you would get fewer flights out of this size of a pack.

Re: Charger

Most people start off with the "wall wart" chargers included with their commercial TX's.

These usually have leads for charging both the TX and the flight pack.

If you use NiCD or NiMH batteries you can use the wall wart chargers. Just use a timer or monitor the charge time.

It is OK to charge it an hour too long, but don't leave the charger plugged in for extra DAYS, as this will ruin the batter packs.

On-line calculators also will tell you the duration of the charge required for optimum pack performance.

All you need is the mA output value from your charger.

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RC'rs who have more than one plane end up with better computer controlled chargers.

These perform many functions not limited to Balancing LiPo packs, and testing capacity and condition of NiMH and NiCD packs.

thanks for the reply.

I went to my local hobby shop (60 miles away)and he refused to open his servo case because i did not have my manual to the plane with me. (no joke). I told him that there is no servo info in the manual.He said he had no idea what I was going to put them in and did not want to be held responsible for something breaking. He said "We sell fun here". I told him what I had And showed him the trainer he has that is almost a 100% match to mine and he said he couldn't help me.

I had the bolts to the firewall and new tank hardware but I put them back after all that.

The tx/rx im using is <font size="4"><font color="#551a8b">Exceed RC 6-Ch 2.4Ghz Transmitter w/ Receiver </font></font>

Any links to the battery and servos? Right now I'm looking at a standard 44in/lb servo. All the models i have are RTF or i bought used so this is the first one I have really built.

Wow!

That LHS must believe all of their customers do not know what they are doing.

However given what I've seen going on at Hobby Stores, more often than not that assumption may be correct.

But they were still jerks with you. They should have helped you out.

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Ok on to the servos.

"Standard" sized servos will work just fine, and given that this is not a precision FAI flyer, you can save some money.

These will work fine or their equivalent: [link=http://www.nitroplanes.com/41ghitoporac.html]SG 5010 - Click me![/link]

As well as these: [link=http://www.nitroplanes.com/hotsehiques3.html]E-Sky Servos[/link]

Pretty much any standard sized ( the Asian markets go by gram weights so things over 34g or so are standard sized ) unit will work. The SG5010's are high torque servos, which you could transfer to other planes later up to around 1.20 in size, though I've even used them on 50CC sport planes w/o any problems.

These are analog servos, which have the advantage of not drawing as much current as the digital servos. However the digital servos are more precise and have better holding power... not that you'll need it.

The 44lb/in also sound like standard size sport servos. You can also check the dimensions on the above links and compare them to the ones you are looking at.

Some variation in size is not going to matter much, as in a worst case you merely file the servo opening a small bit larger.



The Exceed TX/RX will work fine as well... but to REALLY pay it safe not only range test it... but also test the receiver for cold solder joints, etc... by hooking up a servo to one channel at a time, hook up a battery then tap the receiver on a table top.

This subjects it to vibration over and above what it will see in flight, and helps eliminate the RX as a possible point of failure.

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If you are going to go by a hardware store, look for cap bolts and correspondingly sized blind nuts there.

I do this all the time, especially when I want to use larger restraints...

BTW: Fender washers are eminently useful to spread out loads for say wing bolts, etc...

If you want you could also obtain a long sheet metal screw and small corresponding nut, and use this to secure the stripped back plate.

If you have a soldering iron and are handy with it, you could also solder the nut to the back plate to solve the stripped screw problem.

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Pointers:

- When you go to set up your linkages, first connect the servos to the receiver and turn on your TX.

Power up the receiver to permit the servos to center.

Then mark your linkage positions... sometimes I just leave the plane on while working on the linkages to get things right.

Level the control surfaces as much as you can against the corresponding wing/tail area.

Once done tighten the linkages a bit ( I like to use quick release links ) and sight down the BACK of the plane from a distance.

- Check that the surfaces are equal to each in position other on each side.

- It is good to do this too before you glue anything in place to check the alignment of the wings to the elevator and also the elevator to the rudder.

- When you set the throttle linkage up it also helps to have the RX/TX on.

I normally take the throttle trim all the way down, and adjust the throttle linkage so the barrel is fully closed.
This puts the throttle servo out as far as it will go, making sure that it will not later bind at the extremes.

Moving the throttle trim to it's middle position should leave a 2-4mm opening on the throttle barrel if you have things set up right.

Moving the throttle all the way up should open the barrel fully, but the servo should NOT make any noise in this position.

If it does, it is trying to move past the position of the barrel. If this happens move the linkage on the servo horn IN a hole and try again. Repeat until the noise stops... you may also need to adjust the low end a bit.

- Use thread locker on all grub screws, e.g. the axel retainers, etc.

- I like to tap the hole in the motor mount so that the retaining screw grabs that as well as any nut under the mount.

This gives you an added measure of safety... but you need to use a drill press or something similiar to get everything lined up. I've also built myself a small wooden jig to help keep the motor mounts aligned.

- The manual gives the ideal postion of the prop nut relative to the firewall.

Put the mounts pointed up on a table top and clamp the engine to the mounts so that the prop nut is this height above the table top.

Use a small T-Square against the bottom of the engine ( most have a line right in the middle ) to make sure the mounts and the engine are square to each other.

Once everything is lined up use a finger drill to start the holes... I use the Great Planes "Center Hole Finder" for this.

Once you have the marks you can drill out the mounts.

I will then put the motor on the mounts and then with the fuselage pointed up put the engine into it's final position to mark the location of the blind nuts.

- If you have any wrinkles in the covering it helps to get them out before you start, but you must be careful.

- One "trick" use with Asian Arfs....

Asian ARF's use a covering adhesive that gives way over time when exposed to glow fuel.... though so do other coverings...

After the plane is finished, but before I put on any clear plastic parts, I spray it with several light coats of Top Flight Clear Coat spray.

This seals the ediges of the covering and any trim, preventing fuel from getting into these areas and keeping the plane looking new for a long time. I highly recommend it.

- If you are putting in a new engine, get it broken in and tuned up before you fly. Perform the nose up test with 1/2 a tank of fuel.

After your first flight tighten all of the cap screws on the engine ( you'll be surprised how much they will loosen at first! ) and retighten the engine mount screws and nuts.

That's all I can think of at the moment. If you run into something I can help you with just post here.

Also PM John ( Nitrostaff1 ) about the missing bolts and stripped fuel tank. He should be able to mail you a replacement as NP has these are plane parts... he doesn't need to tear apart a new plane to get this stuff to you.

Wow, Great info! ordering thos servos now! I'll head to the hardware store and see what i can find for the firewall. As for the tank hardware I'll see if can find a small lock washer and nut to go on it. Sometimes they will tighten up good with out holding the nut.

You have helped me out alot. Thank you so much!.