Need help from a small engine guy....
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Need help from a small engine guy....
I was recently given a Eager Beaver 327 BC gas trimmer. I took the air filter off and inspected the intake of the carb and both butterfly valves (one choke, one throttle) and all was nice, clean, did not appear gummed up or anything. I put the filter back on, puta new spark plug in (Champion EZ Start), fresh gas (40:1 as per labels on trimmer) and tried starting it. It works fine starting up, idles great on its own, but then bogs down with sharp throttle input. It bogs a lot but does not stall, and upon gentler slower throttle input it gets up to speed just fine. My question is why does it bog out like this? I am assuming it must be a problem with fuel delivery, possibly somewhere in the carb itself. Can anyone help me?
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RE: Need help from a small engine guy....
What I usually do when aquiring a tired old 2-stroke motor is:
Strip the carby.
Soak it in petrol.
Make sure you clean the little mesh filter - Top right in this pic > [link=http://www.polini.com/dep/928_440_008_maxi.jpg]CLICK[/link]
Clean the high/low needles.
Reassemble carby.
Make sure all the bolts for the cylinder head are eaqually tightened.
If the carby has a primer bulb make sure it's not cracked or has a leak.
Check the fuel lines and breather cap on the fuel tank.
Play around with the high/low needles.
I usually start with them both turned out about 1 1/2 to 1 1/4 turns and go from there.
Strip the carby.
Soak it in petrol.
Make sure you clean the little mesh filter - Top right in this pic > [link=http://www.polini.com/dep/928_440_008_maxi.jpg]CLICK[/link]
Clean the high/low needles.
Reassemble carby.
Make sure all the bolts for the cylinder head are eaqually tightened.
If the carby has a primer bulb make sure it's not cracked or has a leak.
Check the fuel lines and breather cap on the fuel tank.
Play around with the high/low needles.
I usually start with them both turned out about 1 1/2 to 1 1/4 turns and go from there.
#3
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RE: Need help from a small engine guy....
Low speed needle is too rich. Look at the carb, it should have two needles. Near the base of each needle, you should see an "L" and an "H" cast into the carb body. These walbro carbs are very touchy, so it wont take much. Turn the one with the "L" in about 10 degrees to the right. That should fix it. If the engine is old, and has a lot of hours, the spark arrester in the muffler could be clogged (coked), your engine may not have one... but its usually a little screen between the engine and the muffler. Remove the muffler and you should see it, then throw the screen away, its only needed to pass EPA crap. This is probably not the problem, but couldn't hurt to try. Don't take the carb apart until you are sure you need to, you WILL tear old gaskets. If you do, plan on buying a rebuild kit (not a bad idea in the first place).
I used to work at a small engine repair place when I was in High school, man I miss playing around with them.
I used to work at a small engine repair place when I was in High school, man I miss playing around with them.
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RE: Need help from a small engine guy....
Thank you both I will look into those issues and post my results. I have another I got that hasnt been ran in a while, a Weed Eater brand Featherlite, it starts but only fora few seconds before dying out but that is a project for another day lol
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RE: Need help from a small engine guy....
Haha different strokes for different folks eh.
Well, I'm sure you'll work it out.
There's not much to these little motors.
Air, fuel and spark.
But those 3 things have to work in harmony of course
Well, I'm sure you'll work it out.
There's not much to these little motors.
Air, fuel and spark.
But those 3 things have to work in harmony of course
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RE: Need help from a small engine guy....
it's the needles for sure. if there is some plastic limiters on it use a pair of needle nose pliers and pull them off and use a small flat tip screw driver. turn the low speed needle and wait till it idles good, then switch to the high speed and feather the throttle till it doesn't bog too much. throw the caps back on if you wish and have at it.
I worked on Small Engines at a shop for 3 years and went to school for them for 2. Common problem.
I worked on Small Engines at a shop for 3 years and went to school for them for 2. Common problem.
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RE: Need help from a small engine guy....
Ok, by adjusting the needles i got the big one running. The other one is a WeedEater brand FeatherLite. It will not prime. When I put gas in it (after checking spark, compression, etc) and started to prime, gas began leaking out of the center of the cap with each press of the primer. I pulled the cap off, looked at it to find the breather in the cap was cocked at an angle. I pressed it flat, gently, and now it isnt getting air to prime. Im assuming this is a case of a faulty breather for the gas cap then? like two or three bucks to fix?
#9
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RE: Need help from a small engine guy....
The cap has a little one-way valve, its probably gummed up. Soak it in some wd40. As for priming, the walbro carbs use a circulation style priming system. There should be two fuel lines that feed the carb. One is probably green, and one is probably clear (or orange by now). When you press the primer bulb, you are drawing fuel up through one line, cycling it through the carb, then back down into the tank through the other. You should be able to prime it with the tank completely sealed. The check valve in the carb might be stuck. If you take off the primer bubble (4 screws), you should see a little orange rubber thing. GENTLY move your finger around on it. If it feels like its loose and can be moved around, its working properly. If it feels like its stuck, then that is probably the cause. If it is stuck, you can attempt to un-stick it by gently pulling it up. You have a 50/50 chance of damaging it, and will have to order a new sub body for the carb if you do.
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RE: Need help from a small engine guy....
I am sorry I must not have been clear, the Beaver is working fine now, it is the little FeatherLite I am working on. Im thinking I will be replacing the gas cap in the morning and seeing if that works. Worst case, I am only out a couple bucks
ORIGINAL: proanti1
The cap has a little one-way valve, its probably gummed up. Soak it in some wd40. As for priming, the walbro carbs use a circulation style priming system. There should be two fuel lines that feed the carb. One is probably green, and one is probably clear (or orange by now). When you press the primer bulb, you are drawing fuel up through one line, cycling it through the carb, then back down into the tank through the other. You should be able to prime it with the tank completely sealed. The check valve in the carb might be stuck. If you take off the primer bubble (4 screws), you should see a little orange rubber thing. GENTLY move your finger around on it. If it feels like its loose and can be moved around, its working properly. If it feels like its stuck, then that is probably the cause. If it is stuck, you can attempt to un-stick it by gently pulling it up. You have a 50/50 chance of damaging it, and will have to order a new sub body for the carb if you do.
The cap has a little one-way valve, its probably gummed up. Soak it in some wd40. As for priming, the walbro carbs use a circulation style priming system. There should be two fuel lines that feed the carb. One is probably green, and one is probably clear (or orange by now). When you press the primer bulb, you are drawing fuel up through one line, cycling it through the carb, then back down into the tank through the other. You should be able to prime it with the tank completely sealed. The check valve in the carb might be stuck. If you take off the primer bubble (4 screws), you should see a little orange rubber thing. GENTLY move your finger around on it. If it feels like its loose and can be moved around, its working properly. If it feels like its stuck, then that is probably the cause. If it is stuck, you can attempt to un-stick it by gently pulling it up. You have a 50/50 chance of damaging it, and will have to order a new sub body for the carb if you do.
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RE: Need help from a small engine guy....
ORIGINAL: justavillain
if there is some plastic limiters on it use a pair of needle nose pliers and pull them off and use a small flat tip screw driver.
if there is some plastic limiters on it use a pair of needle nose pliers and pull them off and use a small flat tip screw driver.
For the featherlite, pull and clean the carb. You may have to use a small wire to clean out some of the passages. Compressed air is also a big help cleaning these carbs. In my experience, the gas tank caps do not go bad all that often.
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RE: Need help from a small engine guy....
Yea but this is simply my observation. As I said, worst case, I am only down a few bucks, no biggie! I do not know much about these kind of small engines but I am having fun learning as I go!
ORIGINAL: DaveG55
The newer carbs don't have slots for screwdrivers. They have some kind of ribs on the side of the adjustment screws and I have not been able to find a tool to fit them. The last one I had a problem with one or these I had to take a dremmel and cut slots for a screw driver.
For the featherlite, pull and clean the carb. You may have to use a small wire to clean out some of the passages. Compressed air is also a big help cleaning these carbs. In my experience, the gas tank caps do not go bad all that often.
ORIGINAL: justavillain
if there is some plastic limiters on it use a pair of needle nose pliers and pull them off and use a small flat tip screw driver.
if there is some plastic limiters on it use a pair of needle nose pliers and pull them off and use a small flat tip screw driver.
For the featherlite, pull and clean the carb. You may have to use a small wire to clean out some of the passages. Compressed air is also a big help cleaning these carbs. In my experience, the gas tank caps do not go bad all that often.
#13
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RE: Need help from a small engine guy....
yeah, those featherlight engines are crap-tacular, had two new ones that stopped working almost as soon as there was gas in them (yes i mixed oil in) they are also tamper resistant. if the cap doesnt work i would just toss it, they are new at wally world for like $55 and even that is a rip off.
other ideas is the magneto is weak, or somehow, the plug is fouling, would'nt hurt to check. also check your lines, ive fixed a few that just had pin hole leaks. (i used to fix thrown away lawn equipment and use them or give them to neighbors)
other ideas is the magneto is weak, or somehow, the plug is fouling, would'nt hurt to check. also check your lines, ive fixed a few that just had pin hole leaks. (i used to fix thrown away lawn equipment and use them or give them to neighbors)
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RE: Need help from a small engine guy....
Well Shark both of these i will be selling once running, so if I can make enough to stay " in the green" I will be happy. Was gonna drop the featherlite for probably twenty and the beaver for 45 or 50