AFSalmon

My Feedback: (3)

Yep, Tim and I have already discussed. The poly glue is certainly fantastic and you can rest assured the planes are glued together better than any other manufacturer. That's the good news about this construction. Next batch we are going to use regular wood glues on the stringers surrounding the wire tunnel. That way it should not expand into the tunnel. We all went to the school of continous process improvement -

Spacey

Did you guys remove the servo lead connector? I know I stand a 80% chance of looking like an idiot for 90% of the folks on here but ok I'll risk it. Taking the connector off and just taping the wires to the end of a nyrod or similar you will really only have a 5mm diameter or less gizmo to pull through the tunnel.

Ugh I know I shouldn't click the "OK" button on this one. Why! Why!?!

The Toolman

Why not just use a real thin plastic tube in there?

Ronnie

AFSalmon

My Feedback: (3)

It is called manufacturing costs. Plus even a thin wall plastic tube would get pressed in by expanding polyurethane glue. Don't worry, I'll have everything under control next batch.

The Toolman

Once that little problem is fixed I'd say that you would have the PERFECT profile arf then.

Ronnie

AFSalmon

My Feedback: (3)

well there is still one thing missing: the space key to press when you dork the plane up. I'm still working on that reset button!

ChrisAttebery

My Feedback: (15)

Mike,

Let me know if you get the key working. I dorked mine pretty hard on sunday. I had one really nice flight with a big audiance. When my timer went off one guy was dead on the runway at one end and another guy said he was going out ont he runway to retrieve his gasser. I plopped it down in about 5 feet right in the middle of the runway. I noticed that the left aileron servo was twitching a bit on the taxi back to the pits. I refueled and took off again. As soon as i got in the air that servo started acting funny. I made a circuit and was lining up to land when the plane just didn't want o go where I told it to. I had to point it straight into the runway from about 15' up to avoid another pilot. Broke both motor mount rails, pulled the root rib off and broke the tip up a bit on the left wing, and broke the vertical stab clean off the fuse. Needless to say the Edge is going to be on R&R for a while. I have to say that I've beat the crap out of it and it's hit the turf fairly hard about 10 times without any major damage.


Chris

AFSalmon

My Feedback: (3)

Chris, that is a bummer! I sure wish I could send you that space key to reset everything! haha. Thanks for the good words on the Edge, I appreciate it. Do you think the Edge is rebuildable? One advantage of the two piece wings is "modular repair". I too have a wing panel to repair on mine after this seasons fun and games.

150flyer

I have a general flight characteristic question about my Edge 540. I have owned and still own several planes that do nice linear rolling harriers such as an OMP Katana 40 and Hangar 9 27% Extra 260. Even my Ultra Stick 40 does beautiful rolling harriers. My question is, does anyone else have problems doing rolling harriers with the Edge 540 or could it just be my set-up? The CG is already behind the recommended most aft position and the throws are at full deflection. When the rolling harrier begins, the nose wants to drop so it's hard to maintain a high alpha angle of attack. The rolls are not fluid and look very choppy. Rolling circles performed with a little more speed look fine.

AFSalmon

My Feedback: (3)

First thing comes to mind is cg but you say that is fine. Second thing that comes to mind is you are right on the stall fence and probably coming in and out of stall and thus dropping the nose. Even with giant scale planes or any funfly plane to properly do smooth rolling harriers requires a blip of throttle on every rotation to knife edge. Just watch any top pilot like jason Noll and others do perfect rolling harriers and you'll hear the engine cycling up and down. That's how they can keep the rollers at perfect altitudes inches off the ground.

ChrisAttebery

My Feedback: (15)

Mike,

I'm sure it's rebuildable, but it's going to take some work. I think the fuse is the worst of it. Replacing the motor mount rails is going to suck. The wing shouldn't be too bad.

Sad part is that it was the only planing flying in my hangar. Now flying is out until I get it fixed or get the EDF off my bench. My initative has really come to a halt in the last couple weeks. Gotta get that enthusiasm back up and get out to the garage.


Chris

Avalanche2

Mike, group, hope all had a Merry Christmas... got my Edge V3 with the 55 AX ... looks really good cant wait to get started on it... question Ive never had to build in the right thrust for a motor.. I got the R/T block OMP sells just not familiar with how to go about using it.. Im sure it needs to be cut but, ????? also are there any pics of putting (or already in) the Ail. horns in? Thanks for any help....

AirTech

My Feedback: (18)

Avalanche,
I don't have any experience with the OMP thrust block. I always use washers between the engine and the motor mount on the front bolts. I beleive three washers was all it required on my Edge. Two washers are about 1 degree, so about 1 to 2 degrees may be enough right thrust. I've found that this ammount depends on how much torque the motor produces, and that depends very much on prop size. The bottom line is to add washers untill you get a fairly straight (little left yaw and roll) climb at a 45 degree angle of attack. Good luck and have a Happy New Year.

AFSalmon

My Feedback: (3)

Chris, don't get discouraged, we are all here as your support group! Take some pics of the damage and share with us of start a new thread with a title like "help me fix my plane!" LOL There is a methodical process to all repairs and we can help you through that.

On the thrust plates, they are 2 1/2 degrees. Slice them into 3/8" wide strips on a bandsaw and clean off the edges. Use these under the engine (widest portion in front) to create the proper right thrust. It is also a good idea to use two more on the left side of the fuse under the locknuts. Reason is this keeps the bolts straight instead of bending when you tighten them.

ChrisAttebery

My Feedback: (15)

Hey Mike,

I got the Edge back together over the holidays. I had to replace both motor mount rails and the balsa stringers that run beside them. I also had to replace the sheeting on one side for about 7" from the front. It looks pretty good. If I had the correct covering colors and patience I could have recreated the trim scheme and you'd barely notice. I won't be able to get it up in the air for another week or so, it's supposed to rain like crazy for the next few days.

BTW: the two piece wing came in handy. I was able to fix the shattered second rib in the right wing and reglue the root rib back in place without removing the covering.


Chris

AFSalmon

My Feedback: (3)

Chris, glad to her you got the Edge back together and the two-piece wing design helped you do it more rapidly and efficiently than a solid wing. The covering is Ultracoat if you ever want to go match the colors.

Avalanche2

hey troops... Ive got my V3 and just about have it together... couple of questions... if putting the battery in the wing doesn't it throw off the CG left to right? I'm thinking of using the forward fuse hatch for the receiver and the rear fuse hatch for the battery. Ive cleaned up the holes and with foam around each there is room.... Is everyone using extensions for the Aileron servos to have a connection point between them and the receiver for wing removal? Does anyone have pics of their antenna route or any construction (any) photos? I'm also thinking of using a pull / push on off switch with a charge jack... has anyone else used this? Thanks a ton for any help, tips, or tricks for final put together... cant wait to fly this bird.. sure looks nice..

AFSalmon

My Feedback: (3)

Almost all profile applications put the battery in the left wing. Why you ask? Because its a good place and it helps to offset the weight of the engine hanging off the right side. Put the rx in the center wing hatch if you plan to routinely remove the wings. Otherwise put the rx inthe left wing alongside the battery. Be sure to wrap in foam. If you do not plan to remove the wings then no extensions are needed for the aileron servos. Otherwise a couple of short 3" extensions off the rx are handy and prevent abuse of the rx plugs. Again if you do not plan to remove the wings the easiest antenna path is out the left wing tip, back along the tip and back into the wing tip at the aft end. I do this on many of my 40 size slabs. If you plan on removing the wings then run the antenna out a small hole below the wing in the siding and then aft.

Avalanche2

almost there... another question... when doing the fuel tank... when putting it on the left side it presses against the back of the throttle servo creating a gap of about 1/4" all around... are you putting some type of spacer in the gap to mate it against? just centering it against the back of the servo and pulling the straps tight? has anyone tried heating the tank to create a space to fit over the servo backside so that it lies flush against the fuse? Am I just over thinking a simple problem? My plane is pretty much complete... looks great, seems very sturdy, just left the tank and motor till last for a good CG... thanks for any help..

AirTech

My Feedback: (18)

On mine I used two 1/4" harwood spacers to mount the HS-81MG to the fuse. Fast and simple, plus it gives the servo link a better angle to the carburetor arm (in my case an O.S. .70 Ultimate).

Avalanche2

thanks AirTech... figured I was over thinking it.. just seemed like a big gap to willy nilly it... not sure how it helps your servo link as its on the other side..?? I'm using the OS 55. for my bird. I'm a semi newbie and this is my first profile. Would love to see any pics... thanks again...

AFSalmon

My Feedback: (3)

Bingo, that's how its done. I do the same thing on all my 40 size slabs.

Avalanche2

I went ahead and formed the tank.. heated it, then molded it to fit around the servo butt... doing that with 1/4 piece of foam to pad the tank against the fuse and it fits like a glove... looks like "lab tech" made it.. no gap at all.. thank y'all for the replies.

Avalanche2

Airtech... I understand what you mean now.. about using the "blocks" .... a picture is worth a thousand words... .. Im also using the HS-81 with an O.S.55 AX and the throttle worked out fine.. heres and over head of mine... the V3 is ready for run in... the plane sure looks nice... thanks for the help all...

AirTech

My Feedback: (18)

Looking good Avalanche.....fly ot like you stole it!