HELLO;
MAYBE I CAN GET HELP ,I HAVE A MINI MAX AND TRIED TO FLY IT WITH THE 320 MAH BATTERY THAT CAME WITH IT,BUT I NOTICED THAT THE MOTOR NOT HAVE ENOUGH POWER TO KEEP IT FLYING,INSTEAD IT STALL IN MID AIR NOT GOING ANY WERE AND DROP I TRIED SOME UP ELEVATOR BUT IT DOES IT AGAIN, ITS A NO WIND SCENARIO OR ABOUT 5 MPH GUSTS.
SOME ONE THAT HAVE THE MINI LET ME KNOW HOW TO SET UP THE LITTLE PLANE.
THANKS

well, I've got a minimax and it was a bit of a dog the first few flights, and after cycling the battery a few times it helped GREATLY! and after I had added a few repairs to it, it helped to lighten it up a little bit. It's not gonna fly like a Cap either, it's a little slow park flyer that flys pretty well for what it's designed, I've gotten some loops out of mine, but it's not the easiest thing in the world. BTW I was using the 270 mah pack that came with mine

Hello PUCHOCOMETA
I just finished my little MiniMax yesterday. Mine came with a 320 Ma pack. Ihaven't used that pack yet . I am using a Qualcom pack and bypassing the circut board on the pack. It has good power and will take off at 1/2 throttle indoors no wind.

I got it to loop and and will try to do some inverted flight tomorro.
The 280 seems to have power to spare with these packs. You can get them here. http://www.hackettelec.com/~hackelec/qc.html

And you have to modify them look here
http://home.attbi.com/~zagizagi/lithium/
or here
http://pease1.sr.unh.edu/aew/rc/HowTo/Qualcomm/
or here
http://www-personal.umich.edu/~aroge.../qbattery1.htm

I don't have any connection with any of these sites but used their ideas. Good luck John

I am SO impressed johnathan! I'm gonna have to order me some of those batteries and mod them, that's the biggest drawback I've found so far (aside form the high cost of micro servos) with the park flyers is that you have to spend a ton on a charger AND on the packs, this could revolutionize my park flying

BFedRec
Remember that these are LiOn cells. They behave differantly than nicads. You must use the charger for LiOns and they cant be used in aplications that require alot of amperage.

My guess is that the 280 motor is about the upper limit. Dont forget that they require the mods to work.

I use mine in my Tiger Moth and get 32 min at Wide Open Throttle.
37 min with throtle management !

You know when you add it up it costs you around $150.00 to get a litestick airborn. But once you have the radio gear the cost goes down on your next model.

The MiniMax sure is ugly but it flys very nicely . John

I double posted sorry
I tacked the MM at 4600 rpm on the LiOn pack and 4300 on the NiCad 320 MA after 2 cycles. I am cycleing one more time to top it off. Happy flying John

By the way I had read a post about the MiniMax and took advantage of the $49.99 with the nicad and the 5A speed controller. John

HELLO;
THANKS FOR THE HELP I GOT IT FLYING TODAY,FLIES GOOD I GOT ALMOST 10 MINUTES FOR THE 320MAH BATTERY
BUT WILL LOOK AT THE LITHIUMS ON THE SITE YOU SEND.
ONE QUESTION,I HAVE TO CHARGE THE LITHIUMS ONLY WITH THE CHARGER THAT CAME WITH IT OR OTHER CHARGER WIL WORK
I HAVE THE DYMOND SUPER CHARGER,LET ME KNOW.

THANKS

I am gettin excited
I recieved my 5 pack of batteries today and ran out to radio shack to get parts to make my black box charger. I got the radio shack project box and made the charger per the plans on the link Jonathan gave. Got the first pack chargin now and all looks good. I did add the power switch to mine as an added precaution. The directions were pretty good except for 1 part. When you are counting the yellow wires the first is immediately next to the red wire and the second is next in line and so on. It took me a couple times reading it to make sure I had it right. Also there is a very tiny hole on the protection board in the upper left corner above the negative charging pad. The directions list this as a foil pad but mine was a hole with no foil to be found. Upon very close inspection you can see a little bit of solder around the hole. This is where the thermistor and the resistor end get soldered.
I have my Park Zero almost completed now. All I need is to mount my airlon servo and linkage, touch up a few airbrush spots and finish adding the decals and she is good to go. Hopefully will get out tomorrow night after work for a few flights to see how it all works out.

PUCHOCOMETA
If I understand corectly the LiOn requires a constant voltage charge. Most if not all chargers are constant current . This means that during the charge the current is reduced as the battery is nearing capicity.

The NiCad or NiMin chargers will not do this and can over charge and damanage or rupture the LiOn cells. Thats a bad day in the making. I have read that some people use a LiOn charger and then top off the cells with a standard charger.

These cells can be found on ebay as well but not at those prices !

Hello Warbird Fanatic
I love my cells I first bought 10 with two chargers. Two weeks later I bought 10 more with one charger. Some one said that these may be in a limited supply . So I have enough to last me for a very long time ha ha .

Just do a search on LiOn cells the are not new. Alot of people use them. By the way I have only been into electric flight for a month now myself.

Would those liOn cells work with the GWS Beaver. It has the GW/EPS-300C-CS(370). The voltage seems just at the limit for the motor. The recommended ESC handles up to 2 amps. Would the extra voltage lower the current draw on the batteries to 1.66 these batteries are good for or can I simply be careful with the throttle.

opps. Forget it. answered my own question. the GWS site shows the power system/prop combo to draw 7.8 amp and the ESC would be the 10 amp unit. Definitly not gonna work :-(

wow... somebody resurrected an old thread here... but what is cool is that I actually did get some of the lith-ions.. modded them... and have had GREAT success with them... well... right up till I folded the wings on my minimax in a diving loop... but the batteries worked GREAT... I've got a couple with the circuit kept on board (there was a thread on ezone about how to do it this way and keep the mod EASY and safe) and now I'm going to mod some with the board separated so I can bypass the safety of the battery shutting off if you draw too much current at once, like going straight to full throttle from dead stop (no biggy on the minimax really... but I've tried it on other set-ups and it does push them a bit too much, which means that when it kills juice there is no power to the servos.. which is bad)...

I have a question that may have already have been answered here, but I was wondering if any kind of setup with these batteries could work in a crazymax? I really like the flight times I'm hearing about. Also how much does it cost for a battery-charger package?
Richie

I have 2 battery packs that I would like some advice on, I have my 220 mah NiMH Maxwell pack, And a FMA Direct 600 AE 1/2 cell pack. The NiMH weighs 2 ounces with 8 cells. And the 600 AE weighs about 5 with 7 cells. What would my flight times/ preformance be with both of theese? WIll the 600 AE be to big? Thanks in advance guys!