cadetman

critterhunter

the BP21 wont take you Unlimited vertical unless you have a High C light Battery pack and a Bare Fuse,
but it will put a Smile on Your Face and its a Brill Entry level to Brushless
Oh and Dont forget 7x6 prop on the BP21 if you want SPEED Too

Cadetman

Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

yeah, ditto what Cadetman said.
This is better than this[X(] or this[:@] or this

Do the Bp first,get comfortable with it. Remember as speed increases, your reaction time decreases. When you are ready we'll go Mega.

critterhunter

Thanks again you guys for the info. I'll be parting her together soon here. As said, my main sticking point is the radio right now and I'm researching them as we speak. I'm now thinking I don't want a computer radio. Just something with V-Mixing and dual rates will be fine. I don't plan on buying other planes for a while as the brushless Stryker will put me at four planes (Challenger, Extreme, Stock Stryker, Brushless Stryker), with a fifth (Old guts from my first Challenger) being put into a glider soon enough. There is nothing much out there that excites me like going brushless with the Stryker so I don't see myself buying another plane for a year or so. Well, maybe the P51 Mustang by Parkzone next spring...If you guys have advice on a cheap, cheap, & cheap non-computer radio that has V-Mixing and Dual Rates please tell. Wonder if I can find a package deal with the servos and an RX with it?

critterhunter

OK, today I took the plunge. The LHS had that new JR radio in. It's called a JR Sport 600E or something similar. It's a 6 channel radio and came with standard servos that I can't use. However, the 6 channel RX it came with, while not micro, is very small and should do well in the Stryker. The radio is computerized and features dual rates, V Tail, Etc. It also came with a battery pack and charger for the TX, and a battery pack for the RX which I won't need since I'm not running a gas plane and thus it will power off the plane's battery. I also picked up two Hitec 81 servos. I didn't get the metal gear version as I suspect these will last a while and I can always throw the metal gears in them later if needed. The radio was $160. The two 81 servos were like $17 a piece.

While I was up there I picked up a Stryker body, verticle fins, flaps, control rods, and the three piece hatch pack. This takes care of the body parts needed. Instead of going to Du Bro hinges the guy suggested I use this special hinge tape they have. He said it works fine on his brushless Stryker. Grand total for all the above parts came to like $269 or so. No too bad.

Now I'm missing my motor, speed control, prop, and a couple of lipo batteries and charger to complete this bird. I know I'm getting the BP21 and 18amp (?) speed control from Balsa Products that you guys suggested. I'll also be using the prop Cadetman suggested with it. By the way, name of the company that makes that prop or will anyone with those numbers work? That leaves me to finding a couple of cheap lipos and a charger. Open to suggestions on where to find the best price on those. I don't want a real expensive charger. Something less than $50 that will get the job done. As for the 3 cell (?) lipos, I'd like decent run time so I'm probably looking at something over 2000ma? Help me build this bird guys!

PS- That prop you suggested for the BP21....is this the right prop for a 3 cell lipo? Do I need to buy a prop adapter and if so what type and where, or does the BP21 and/or that prop come with all that's needed? Also, with the BP21 and that prop what is the amp draw and what specifications should I look for on a 3 cell lipo pack that will handle the BP21 with that prop? I'm trying to price a couple of 3 pack lipos over 2000ma cheap along with a cheap charger. I think Dymond is the leader in low prices so far from what I've read but I have no idea on how to choose a pack that will handle that motor/prop?

cadetman

critterhunter

BP21 works best with a Thin Electric Prop dont even attempt to use Gas Props they are too heavy and the wrong type of material for the BP21,
you will need a 3mm prop adaptor to fit the shaft and its best if you cut it down as it is Way Too Long for the Stryker

Batteries... 2 lines of thought here !
i choose a 2500ma 3 Cell pack rated at 8.5C for to power the BP21
they are cheaper and do the Job really well

others have went for a 1500Ma 15C Pack

as the BP21 only pulls about 13-14 amps with a 7x6 prop then i worked out a 2500Ma 8.5C pack gives a really good Flight time

the 1500Ma 15C pack never really gets used to its full potential as it never has the chance to deliver the Amps that it can deliver !

Cadetman

Scottp81

I'm getting my first Parkzone Stryker and it seems here that the stock charger and battery are not so great, also I will probably want to upgrade the radio, ESC and motor. So here is my question, I'm thinking of just buying the fuselage(sp?) and would like for you guys to maybe reccomend a brushless motor, radio, servos, and everything else I will need. I am willing to spend extra for the good stuff but would like to keep the price of the plane under $500.00 dollars. I should mention that this will be my first plane and my first time flying but I also don't want to get a small or cheap plane to learn with and then want something faster or more acrobatic, I want this to be a one time purchase that will last a while.

I do most of my land RC ordering from Tower Hobbies, don't know if that matters, but links to these items on their site would help as I would just have to add the parts to my wishlist. I also want to use LiPo batteris so I will need a LiPo charger and an ESC that will cut off the motor when the LiPo hits its danger zone, I think it is 5 Volts, but not sure.

I also need to find out what kind of paint to use on the foam body, I don't know how to airbrush or own an airbrush kit so I just wanted to buy a can of paint in a compresed air can that I could just spray on the body.

I don't need to hit 100 MPH either I mostly want agility over speed. This is mostly for just flying in a few large fields near my house, no other people or RC flyers are there that I've ever seen.

cadetman

Scottp81

there is another thread on RCU

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3191424/tm.htm

at this moment in time i see you are reading it

Hopefully you read it from page ONE and learn that the Stryker flyers dont give out information to allow a Newbie to be in charge of a Guided/ Un-Guided MISSILE

its All about building your Flying Skills and Then building a Brushless Stryker any other way is gonna end in tears if its your Second RPV

if i can be so bold to make a suggestion.. Good Idea to learn on a Trainer RPV first..
THEN...build a Stryker with a brushed motor first and THEN go Brushless when you are comfortable with the speed,

Cadetman

Scottp81

Yes I understand you don't want tohelp me make it fast, but could you just list the parts I would need to make it flyable w/o me actually buying the RTF kit and getting disapponted with stripped servos and a mediocre radio and such.

Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

The problem is the Stryker is fast even in stock form. This is not the plane to learn on, unless you have a big wallet, or you are a natural born pilot. We want to help you but sometimes helping means telling you you shouldn't go there yet.
You need to develop your flight skills first, don't be in such a hurry, learn to fly and then step up. You are talking about flying an aprox 2 pound bird at 50 mph. And this bird needs to be piloted ahead of it. Reacting to it is too late, in most cases. Take it from me, I flew gassers for many years, and I thumped quite a few of these in learning to fly it as it is so different.
Yes I have a big wallet, I spent over $5000.00 on Strykers. I'm/we are just trying to save you some grief and $$$$. But if you can't be turned from this attempt, ask many many questions first. We can still attempt to help you get a better flying bird, through better servos/esc's, etc.
But we will not turn you loose untill you've proven you can handle it. And on that note, your reference to lipo cut off voltage shows you are not ready for lipos. Lipos are the ultimate power for an R/C bird, but they are like teasing a rattlesnake, they don't like to be teased or abused. And you have not lived until you've seen an lipo bite back.

Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

Ok preaching done.
Get a Hitec 555 Rx, Hitec 81 servos, a 30 amp esc, such as the E-flight, for brushed motors.
Stick with the stock packs and motor/prop. Of course you'll need a Tx.
This will give better control of the bird.
And as a hint, stock up on spare parts for the bird, you will need them.
Sorry, no motor or lipo tips yet.

Scottp81

I understand that LiPos can explode and start fires if not handled carefully.
I was mainly wanting a LiPo for the longer runtimes rather than speed.
Same with Brushless Im not really wanted speed, just an agile plane for acrobatics. I'm not sure about planes but with my cars and trucks, a brushless motor means longer lasting with out worrying about brush wear and cutting the comm every couple of races.

Not trying to change your mind about helping me now, just letting you know so that when I do get help, it's less about making the plane go faster and more about increasing its agility. As you said it is pretty fast stock, I believe 55MPH that is probably all I will need, I also think it may be a little too light for windier days and I wanted to know how I could help weight it down some while keeping it balanced, so it would be able to fly in heavier winds.

As far as learning on a Stryker, I've talked to the guys at the LHS that all own Strykers as well and have been told, while it won't be easy I can learn on a Stryker and they are reasonably stable at lower speeds to teach myself how to fly. I figured at only 20 bucks a fuselage I could afford a few wrecks. From what I understand if it isn't a bad crash I can even just glue it back together and keep flying.

I was also recommended in another forum to get a Hitec Electron 6 Receiver. Would this be better or stick with the 555?

Should I get one with elevon mixing (not sure what this is, but am pretty sure I want it, if not now for later)

Should I stick with a stock propeller or look at different sizes? if so, what size would you reccomend?

Should I get an ESC now that can handle 30 or 40 amps so that later I won't need to upgrade or start out with a cheaper ESC?

About starting with a different plane, I know top winged planes are easier to learn on than bottom wing planes. It looks like the Typhoon is somewhere in between top and bottom, I was thinking of buying one of those but the LHS guys said to go with a Stryker.

What about strengthening the wings and motor mount area to avoid warping and breaking at the motormount? I also saw a Styker that was modified to have airbreaks. Is this a hard mod? What about worthwhile?

I want to learn more about prepping the body like with the nosecone toothpick and rubberband trick and keeping the fuselage from breaking around where the motormounts. Also I was hoping to learn more about painting it. I'm not sure if painting designs is as simple as a lexan truck body where you just mask off the design and paint. Looks like foam wouldn't allow the clean lines you get since it isn't smooth like lexan and would allow the paint to bleed.

Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

Wow, you don't want much do you. LOL
Look, go to the "way past the limits, part 3" on the stryker forums. That's where we hang out. You'll get a lot more response to your questions. And on that forum is a blue box at the top left of the page, F27 resourses. Has loads of tips to many of your questions.

cadetman

Scottp81

we would be happy to help you in anyway we can,
its not impossible to learn on a Stryker
a Scratch build Stryker can take a Good Thump into Terra Firma and still fly fine,

one piece of advice i always give now is.. Dont Over invest in one direction with the Stryker,
i would buy a Stock motor and stock prop and a cost effective esc and use 7 cell packs to learn on,
the reason why i suggest this is because once you have got familiar with the set up you will be drawn into the speed that these things can do
you will want to go brushless and possibly even lipo,
you can learn all about lipo safety and Lots of tips,
they are Very Addictive And Brill Fun

come and join the main Stryker Thread "Way Passed the Limits"
All are made Very Welcome and taught the rights and wrongs and Safety First.

Cadetman

critterhunter

Nothing wrong with learning on a stock Stryker. It's a pretty good value for the money and is VERY agile with decent speed. If you don't crash on the flaps a lot the servos will hold up fine. I only burned through two servos, one RX, three bodies, two sets of verticle fins, one pair of flaps, and a few lost hatches learning my stock Stryker. To be fair to myself, the original body wasn't balanced proper and thus it took a ton of wrecks before I found out (thanks to these guys) what was wrong. They are right, though...keep it at least stock motor and pack wise until you learn the bird and can fly her in high rates even at low altitude. She's plenty fun and fast. However, I've got a bit "comfortable" with mine and now only want to use it for combat module fun or flying in parks where safety is a factor. For the open huge private field I fly in (surrounded by woods and no houses so it's very safe) I want speed and power. That's why I'm taking the brushless plunge as I feel I've learned enough to take that next step. Now onto MY questions...:')

OK, BP Products sells two speed controls in the pack deal for the BP21. One is only *15* amps and the other is 30 amps. Both are BP brand names and I'm guessing I should go with the 30 amp for future needs since it's only like $8 more expensive. Guys?

Onto these lipos...Cadetman or Glacier Girl...What kind of run time can I expect at full throttle on the BP21 and that prop you recommend with various MA pack ratings? I'm really lost with these lipo pack specifications and want to be safe and make sure I don't over stress a pack. I'd like 15 or more minutes run time at mostly full throttle. What MA range and/or a pack part # can you give me from Dymond or the other company? Still also looking for a suggestion on a good charge under $50 that will get the job done. I don't care if it only does lipos so long as it will handle up to 3 cells.

Props....Cadetman, are you telling me so long as I get a prop in the size you listed above that is made for electric it will be fine. No need to worry about specific companies? What about best material to use?

The 6 channel RX that came with this radio, as said, is fairly small (smaller than the stock RX/speed control in the Stryker) and light. However, I see that most RX's run off a voltage range up to 6 volts. I haven't dug into the specifications for it yet but suspect it's the standard 6 volt range. Now, it did come with a Nicad pack to power it but of course that's mainly used in gas planes and not electrics. How exactly am I to use this RX in a lipo Stryker thats running a 3 cell pack with a much higher voltage? Voltage regulators, a port off the speed control....? I'm lost on that one.

The radio...I read through the whole manual last night and it's not as plain jane simple as I thought to set this thing up. First, it offers several plane configurations, two of which are V-Tail mixing or Delta Wing. I would assume I want to use Delta Wing? Also, a bit confused about setting up dual rates or the "Expotential" (or whatever it's called) stick response settings. I need big help setting all this up. I know enough to set my stock Stryker next to this bird and use it as a guide to get my high and low rates of throw about the same as the stock bird, but how to or what to do is confusing. Any kind of standard setting stuff you can walk me through would be great as this manual isn't giving me a lot to go on.

Motor mount for the BP21. I think I'll try the aluminum mount I heard talked about that can be simply bent back into place after a crash. Can anybody direct me to a link with pictures as I can't find it.

Thanks for all the help....with any luck I'll be crashing with the best of them in a week or two. :')

Splatz

Critterhunter,

I just finished my BP-21 upgade.

Hitec Flash 5 SX TX
H-555 RX
HS-81 servos w/extensions
BP-21 brushless w/30A ESC combo (definetly get the 30A ESC)
(had to fabricate a motor mount at my machine shop)
TP 3s 11.1V 2100mah Lipos
APC 7X6 prop

This thing rocks! It's not as fast as the Mega flyers around here, but it kicks butt on stock!
I flew till the voltage cuttoff kicked in yesterday with a 22 minute flight time!

cadetman

critterhunter

this works for me.. see pics

what your looking at is a thin plywood pad.. top and botton, the aluminium pod was made from flat sheet and bent back with triangular supports to cope with Impact load,
the sheet aluminium its fitted thru the wing and bent over on the underside,
my next one will be a bit more graceful,
this was just a test jig to see if it would cope with Cadetman's Prangs [:@] and it does

some Manufacturer's props work better than others depending on battery and cleanness of the Stryker so its down to personal choice at the end of the day but a 7x6 thin electric is a good starting poing and then its down to personal fine tuning,

we have a saying in the U.K.. "Never Spend a Pound when a Penny will Do ! )
Unfortunatly this DOES NOT APPLY in R/C
i know this from Stripping 6 HS-55 Servos.. this was before i knew about the HS81 MG servo's
so buy the 30 amp esc for when your ready to upgrade

Lipo.. get a 2600 Ma Pack rated at 8.5 C Minimum that should give you what your looking for

Cadetman

cadetman

Heads UP !

there is now 3 threads going and you are making the Elders answer the same question on 3 threads [:@]

can you please consolidate yourselves to avoid the Elders having to go thru 3 different threads to help [&o]

Thank You

critterhunter

Great info by all. Thanks! Yes, I'll move my questions over to the main Stryker thread. Problem is I'm a bit of a perfectionist...which means I wanted to read all that Way Past The Limits stuff up to the current thread in order to not miss anything. I guess I'll just have to take my pills and start reading the current thread while skipping the other stuff. (I feel a panic attack coming on.) Still need to dig through the specs for this RX that came with the radio to determine it's voltage range. I'm suspecting it's the standard 6 volt max which will leave me scratching my head as to whether I need to use a different RX or is there some form of voltage regulator I'll need to use or a special port on the speed control. I would doubt I'm supposed to use the battery pack supplied with it since that's mainly use for gas planes to provide RX power.