Anemic Yard Bee performance
#1
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From: Gainesville,
FL
Hi guys,
Really frustrated lack of flight performacnce with my stock Clancy Lazy Bee ARF set up. Left the gear off for better flight performance. Aircraft weighs in at 9.25 oz. plus 3.50 oz for the 800mAh 8.4V Ni-MH battery. What are some of my options for hopping up this little puppy, I can barely keep it in the air as is.
Do I need to go with a bigger motor set up? LiPo's? Brushless set up. Kind of like to keep this on the inexpensive side, but want something that works. I'll be needing to order equipment online, as the closest hobby shop to me is over an hour away. Speak slowly, as I'm pretty new to electrics.
Thanks for the help, Guys!
Brian C.
Really frustrated lack of flight performacnce with my stock Clancy Lazy Bee ARF set up. Left the gear off for better flight performance. Aircraft weighs in at 9.25 oz. plus 3.50 oz for the 800mAh 8.4V Ni-MH battery. What are some of my options for hopping up this little puppy, I can barely keep it in the air as is.
Do I need to go with a bigger motor set up? LiPo's? Brushless set up. Kind of like to keep this on the inexpensive side, but want something that works. I'll be needing to order equipment online, as the closest hobby shop to me is over an hour away. Speak slowly, as I'm pretty new to electrics.
Thanks for the help, Guys!
Brian C.
#2
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I'm not sure what the setup in the stock ARF is, but if you let us know, we can try to offer suggestions to improve it. What size motor is it? What is the gear ratio? What size prop? and what type of batteries (2/3AA or full AAA cells)? would be helpful.
#3
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From: Gainesville,
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BuzzBird,
Appreciate the offer of help. The stock set up uses a 280 brushed motor with 2:1 gearbox. Because of the gear box, the motor runs backwards but is not designed for this, and AFAIK the timing isn't adjustable. Spinning a black plastic 7.5x5 E prop, no idea who manufactures it. Motor was "run in" on the bench prior to mounting in the Yard Bee.
The battery is a 7cell 8.4V 800mAh, 2/3 AA, Ni-MH with JST connectors, running through a GreatPlanes C-10 Micro ESC.
I can't think of anything else to tell you, but if you need more info - let me know. Hope this helps you help me.
Thanks again.
Brian C.
Appreciate the offer of help. The stock set up uses a 280 brushed motor with 2:1 gearbox. Because of the gear box, the motor runs backwards but is not designed for this, and AFAIK the timing isn't adjustable. Spinning a black plastic 7.5x5 E prop, no idea who manufactures it. Motor was "run in" on the bench prior to mounting in the Yard Bee.
The battery is a 7cell 8.4V 800mAh, 2/3 AA, Ni-MH with JST connectors, running through a GreatPlanes C-10 Micro ESC.
I can't think of anything else to tell you, but if you need more info - let me know. Hope this helps you help me.
Thanks again.
Brian C.
#4
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Brian,
That info does help. First things first--I think it will be in your best interest to lose the geared 280 in favor of a geared 300 type. 280's are an okay sort of motor, but you could achieve much more power from a 300 motor on 5:1 gearing with a modest increase in current requirement(the 10 amps speed control you have shoudl be fine). I spent a year fussing around with 280 size motors as an intermediate upgrade from IPS class( the tiny 150 size motors like what's in the GWS Tiger Moth) only to conclude that I couldn't find any real advantage over the original setup. If you bump up to a 300 motor, you will likely be looking at current in the range of 6-8 amps instead of the 3-4 amps the 280 is pulling, but the actual output power will be improved. I'm assume(tell me if I'm wrong) that the gear box you are currently using has an open frame with 3 or 4 mounting ears which bolt to the firewall? If so, this is the stock wattage gearbox, which is excellent at making gear noise but horrible at making an electric motor spin a propellor. I would suggest you replace it with an EPS350C motor and gearbox combination from GWS(fabrication of a stick mount will be required). This will get you a "350" motor--a 300 timed for reverse rotation, and a dual ball bearing gearbox in your choice of ratio for ~$15. 5.33:1(GWS refers to this ratio box as "C" gearing) is the most popular, and work well with 7-cell nimh pack or 2S lithium polymer on a 9x7 GWS "RS" prop.
Now the good news, if you haven't figured it out already: the battery you have should be fine. 2/3AA nimh packs are usually capable of sustained current draw in the range of 6-10 amps, so you don't have to buy a new battery.
That info does help. First things first--I think it will be in your best interest to lose the geared 280 in favor of a geared 300 type. 280's are an okay sort of motor, but you could achieve much more power from a 300 motor on 5:1 gearing with a modest increase in current requirement(the 10 amps speed control you have shoudl be fine). I spent a year fussing around with 280 size motors as an intermediate upgrade from IPS class( the tiny 150 size motors like what's in the GWS Tiger Moth) only to conclude that I couldn't find any real advantage over the original setup. If you bump up to a 300 motor, you will likely be looking at current in the range of 6-8 amps instead of the 3-4 amps the 280 is pulling, but the actual output power will be improved. I'm assume(tell me if I'm wrong) that the gear box you are currently using has an open frame with 3 or 4 mounting ears which bolt to the firewall? If so, this is the stock wattage gearbox, which is excellent at making gear noise but horrible at making an electric motor spin a propellor. I would suggest you replace it with an EPS350C motor and gearbox combination from GWS(fabrication of a stick mount will be required). This will get you a "350" motor--a 300 timed for reverse rotation, and a dual ball bearing gearbox in your choice of ratio for ~$15. 5.33:1(GWS refers to this ratio box as "C" gearing) is the most popular, and work well with 7-cell nimh pack or 2S lithium polymer on a 9x7 GWS "RS" prop.
Now the good news, if you haven't figured it out already: the battery you have should be fine. 2/3AA nimh packs are usually capable of sustained current draw in the range of 6-10 amps, so you don't have to buy a new battery.
#5
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From: Gainesville,
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BuzzBomber,
Thanks for the info. Can you recommend an online source for your recommended GWS set up? If the prop is not included with the motor/gearbox, can you suggest one?
Again, really appreciate the help.
Brian C.
Thanks for the info. Can you recommend an online source for your recommended GWS set up? If the prop is not included with the motor/gearbox, can you suggest one?
Again, really appreciate the help.
Brian C.
#6
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Brian,
Balsa Products is a good vendor to deal with, and they carry the full GWS lineup. Here's a direct [link=http://www.balsapr.com/catalog/motors/EPS350cView.asp?ProductId=T433964]LINK[/link] to the product I was referring to in my last post. The page will show a 5.33:1 gearbox and motor, as well as a chart showing power consumption and thrust on various voltages. There are some recommended props at the bottom also; the 8x6 slowflyer, 9x5 direct drive, and 9x7 slowflyer are the best on this motor in my experience. The 9x7 will yield the most thrust and pitchspeed, but it will require the most current, so the 9x5 is probably a good compromise. Other vendors for GWS include Tower Hobbies, Aeromicro, and GWS-Parts. A google search of any of those names should get you to their websites.
Balsa Products is a good vendor to deal with, and they carry the full GWS lineup. Here's a direct [link=http://www.balsapr.com/catalog/motors/EPS350cView.asp?ProductId=T433964]LINK[/link] to the product I was referring to in my last post. The page will show a 5.33:1 gearbox and motor, as well as a chart showing power consumption and thrust on various voltages. There are some recommended props at the bottom also; the 8x6 slowflyer, 9x5 direct drive, and 9x7 slowflyer are the best on this motor in my experience. The 9x7 will yield the most thrust and pitchspeed, but it will require the most current, so the 9x5 is probably a good compromise. Other vendors for GWS include Tower Hobbies, Aeromicro, and GWS-Parts. A google search of any of those names should get you to their websites.
#7
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From: Gainesville,
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BuzzBird,
Thanks for the heads up on the equipment! While on a family trip I was able to stop by Graves Hobbies in Orlando (awesome store!) and pick up the recommended GWS set-up and prop. Hooked everything up and it looks like it will run OK, no way to measure but it sure seems to have alot more power. Just have to fabricate a stick mount for the EPS-350, which comes in at 5grams more than the 280 set-up.
Do I need to be concerned about the thrust line of the plane? Mounting with the motor below the stick has it about 1/4 inch lower than the exisitng thrust line. Flipping it the other direction puts it more inline with the 280's thrust line, but I'd have to cut a large chunk out of the front sheeting of the nose for the motor to fit. If I cut the hole I might be able to recover some of the weight that will be added by the stick mount. What do you guys think?
Eagerly awaiting advice,
Brian C.
Thanks for the heads up on the equipment! While on a family trip I was able to stop by Graves Hobbies in Orlando (awesome store!) and pick up the recommended GWS set-up and prop. Hooked everything up and it looks like it will run OK, no way to measure but it sure seems to have alot more power. Just have to fabricate a stick mount for the EPS-350, which comes in at 5grams more than the 280 set-up.
Do I need to be concerned about the thrust line of the plane? Mounting with the motor below the stick has it about 1/4 inch lower than the exisitng thrust line. Flipping it the other direction puts it more inline with the 280's thrust line, but I'd have to cut a large chunk out of the front sheeting of the nose for the motor to fit. If I cut the hole I might be able to recover some of the weight that will be added by the stick mount. What do you guys think?
Eagerly awaiting advice,
Brian C.
#8
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Brian,
Take a look at [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2032835/anchors_2032835/mpage_1/key_yard%252Cbee/anchor/tm.htm#2032835]THIS THREAD[/link]. He's using a 400C system in the last picture, but the mounting should be very similar. FWIW, I probably wouldn't sweat 1/4" difference in thrustline location as long as you can preserve whatever down/right thrust is built in, and you have enough prop clearance. My word is hardly gospel, though.
And again, if the whole system only weighs 5 grams more than the 280 system, don't even worry about it--the increased power will more than make up for it. On a plane this size, 5 grams difference in the total weight isn't even noticable in my experience.
Take a look at [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2032835/anchors_2032835/mpage_1/key_yard%252Cbee/anchor/tm.htm#2032835]THIS THREAD[/link]. He's using a 400C system in the last picture, but the mounting should be very similar. FWIW, I probably wouldn't sweat 1/4" difference in thrustline location as long as you can preserve whatever down/right thrust is built in, and you have enough prop clearance. My word is hardly gospel, though.
And again, if the whole system only weighs 5 grams more than the 280 system, don't even worry about it--the increased power will more than make up for it. On a plane this size, 5 grams difference in the total weight isn't even noticable in my experience.



