P901911

You are talking about the prop shaft I will presume.

I think you need to assemble with a bit of "end play"
so that the shaft can pull back and forth maybe the thickness
of a sheet of paper folded double, (.006").
This should give good clearance on the prop shaft without
being so loose that you have excessive shaft travel.
Remember to include a "thrust washer in the front of the
main gear because the pull of the propeller will use this as
a sort of a bearing so the thrust will pull against the washer.
Let us know how you make out.
P901

BOZMAN

Hi yes the prop shaft has a big White Cog attached to it and this goes into the gear box (see picture) I have two small metal Washers about 3mm in thickness, one I think goes onto the prop shaft before I put it into the gearbox, I am assuming the other then goes on the other end to make the prop shaft sit snuggly into the casing of the gearbox.

The White cog and the pinion then match up about 75% to each other. I am pretty sure I understand what you mean, I was leaving a gap of about 2 mm with the washers etc I had and that was causing a poor connection betweeen pinion and cog, so believed I had to have no gap, which then resulted in the tightening of the prop. Will get hold of a few more washers and try for the smaller gap.

Also (I am probably being thick here!) does it matter which way on the prop goes, there is a groove in it for a nut to fit in, does the prop go on with this groove facing towards the engine, or facing away from the engine, or does it not really matter?


Thanks very much for your advise, appreciated. Next time I take something apart I must remember to make a note how it goes back together again!

Regards

Bozman

P901911

Good morning,

It sounds as if you have the correct perception as to the assembly,
a little bit more experimentation will produce the desired result.
Yes, in this case it is important to install the propellor in the proper aspect.
If you will observe the propellor carefully you will see a gentle "concave"
curvature to the blade. You want this inside curve to face to the rear, in effect you may visualize the propellor blade as it gathers or "cups" the air and thrusts it rearward therefore providing an efficient degree of forward "lift". Much like the action of the curve of the wing itself.
You will also notice in comparison with glo engine props that the curve is more pronounced with the electric than the glo since we typically turn the prop with less rpm and "more" torque, [figuratively speaking] with the gearing that is often used in this range of electric aircraft. In an overall sense we endevour tto make the most efficient use of the motor/battery/gearing/propellor whereas a glo engine being oftentimes much more "overpowered" relative to an electric aircraft, therefore a glo prop albeit well designed seems to be relatively less critical for performance than an electric prop since the glo engine has such an abundance of power.
Hope this helps, let us know how you make out.
andrew
P901

gunracer

bozman,

those 3mm "washers" are the bearings...you should have two...one for each end of the gearbox...once you have the bearings in place, prop shaft goes in, followed by the 3-4mm plastic spacer, two or three nuts, the prop, spinner backplate, metal washer and then the heavy prop nut...it's easy to tell which way the prop should face...the back of it is recessed out for the nut it sits on...hope this makes sense...let me know if you need pixs...

BOZMAN

Hi all, thanks for your help "getting there" , all assembled Ok, however I now note the pinion is slipping on the motor shaft as it spins reducing the amount of power transferred to the prop shaft. Any tips on how to stop this? Maybe put some glue down it to try and stick it onto the motor shaft a bit better? This happened once before and I ended up buying a new motor with the pinion on it.

Plane looks good, just wouldnt mind getting it back up in the air where it should be!

Have tried a bit of glue, works for about 20 seconds then the pinion comes loose again...agh! Any tips appreciated

gunracer

is that pinion plastic or metal...if it's plastic dump it and get a new motor as i believe they now all come with metal pinions...

BOZMAN

Hi there , the gluing has failed on the pinion. The replacement motor is a good idea. However the shop where I get parts from only has the stock motor with the plastic one on.

Anyone know where I can get a replacement motor online with this metal pinion on? If not UK any place that will ship to UK?

This plastic one Parkzone provide must be boardering on the "sale of goods - fit for purpose", unless they mean "fit for one or two flights!"

The parkzone Stryker was superbly designed, but am a bit disappointed in this FW190 so far !

MAX HEADSPEED

I replaced the FW motor with a HBZ Super Cub motor w/steel pinion on it.
Waiting on the weather to clear so that I can fly it. They did sell a 2 metal pinions in a bag but they only show the plastic gears with a different pn.

hawk3ye

Wow that sucks. I've had a plastic pinion on mine and it only just now started to fail after about two major nose in wrecks and 6 months of Lipo-charged use.

I'm still on my 2nd plastic pinion with a casual CA glue job - I do agree though, kinda hair ball trying to get the bird out of a stall and gliding her into the field when that sort of thing happens though.

traxxboy

Has anyone put retracts on this bird

kronus

Hi,

Ive just received my PZ FW-190 and ive noticed that the plastic (the bit that is attached to the fusalage where the wing goes underneath) which should fit snugly onto the wing isnt (can actually see through the plane just above the wing/below the fusalage), i should be able to fill it in or maybe take it of and "re-bend" the plastic into shape so when the wing is on the curved plastic bit does touch the wing but i thought i would ask here first before i go changing things!

The wing is definatly screwed on completly so the gap hasnt appeared from the wing not being screwed in enough.

any help would be much appreciated!

Thanks

tclaridge

Kronus,
I picture would help. I hate to give advice on something I can't see. I always peek through the battery hatch to make sure the screws are in completely and correctly. The back screw can be hard to get in all the way or may be stripped.

kronus

tclaridge,

Here is a picture of the FW which i found on a different page on this thread, This is not my plane!!

I have put some annotation in the picture to hopefully make things clearer. The problem is on both side but slightly more than on one side, where you see i have pointed to the problem area is where a 10-12mm gap is present.

Once i get home from work i will post a picture of what it actually looks like.

Thanks

P901911

Good morning Kronus,

If you will go back to page 20 on this thread you will see a description of a solution to this problem.

I had the same thing happen to my plane and the rear screw actually pulled right out and stripped out the material.
I ended up using a sheetrock screw with the head turned down a little bit on a grinding wheel. Then because I found it frustrating to try to get the screw to catch when the head was way down in the hole I cut a length of hard plastic tubing to hold the head of the screw flush with the bottom of the wing.
Of course you need to get screws of the proper length but sheetrock screws are readily available in all lengths and the hold the plastic frame much better than the original setup.
You will also see the numerous mods I made to the plane and some creative mods done by others.
Hope this helps, andrew

tclaridge

Also,
The wing fillet is the part that you point to in the picture. It is cosmetic, but do check what P901 says. If the screws is all the way in, then I would say glue down the wing fillet.

Here is something I had to do to my wing fillet because it was curled out at the back of the wing. I pressed it back into place on the fuse and straightened it out (each side) and applied a little foam safe CA. It has stayed and looks much better. Snug fit, no gaps. I will post a picture tomorrow.

kronus

Thanks for the advice!

Good morning to you to P901!

I will check all of what you two have said when i get back home, so its called a wing fillet is it? bit more descriptive than the "plastic bit" i said

I will have a read of page 20 and see exactly what you did P901.

Im just glad someone else had a similer problem, i was beginning to think it was a manafacture error and would have to send it back, but hopefully i will still be set for my maiden flight tomorrow

P901911

Hello Kronus,

I also had a bit of "curling" at the rear of the wing fillet.
Mine might not have been as severe as others so my solution to this
was to simply trim away the curled end and make the angle appear
as blended as possible. Since the remaining material is a bit thicker
the trailing edge of the fillet seems much more stable and has not
curled out again.

Let us know how you make out.
P901
andrew

gunracer

if the wing is sitting 10-12mm below the fillet, then something's not right as that's a pretty big gap...the gaps i've seen on this and the pther pz warbirds is maybe 3mm at most...again, make sure the wing is screwed in all the way...you'll know when the screws bottom out...

as for the curling tips on the wing fillets, i took a heat gun to them and curled them inwards...now they sit flush against the fuse...

tclaridge

Here are some pics showing wing installation. The view into the fuse is through the battery hatch, and shows the screw above the plastic housing by about 1/8" for full contact. The back of the wing is shown as flush with the fuse, but this is not a tight fit. Also, you can see where I clued the wing fillet to the fuse to keep the little tips from curling away. You can also see some gaps on the side, and this is OK.

kronus

Well i ended up using Epoxy to glue it down and that seemed todo the trick, So saturday i took it out for its maiden flight, the wind was about 10mph 1-2m of ground level so i thought hey, it should be alright....heh..

hand launch was perfect but as soon as it gained some height going againt the wind it then became harderto control and started turning and flying away from me with the wind, it then seemed to steady out but when i banked it round to come back into the wind it decided todo a nose dive (Wasnt a spiral nosedive from holding full left-right for prolonged time)

i think the wind basically got on top the plane and pushed it nose down, i pressed full back on the elevator but because it was only on the easy mode it didnt have enough to bring the plane back level. It ended up smashing the front cowel, spinner, engine mount & cog, propeller, internal structure and also banged up the front of the fusalage!

ive managed to epoxy and tape the front of the fusalage back together and that seems to hold strong now, just ordered replacement bits to the value of £20 inc P&P so overall it wasnt a complete write-off

So next time im not going to fly if the wind is 10-12 especially on the easy mode, as i just don't think it can handle it, maybe if it was on the more advanced setting i could of pulled out of the dive...ahh who knows.

Kronus

tclaridge

My limit for wind is 7 mph for a park flyer (I use a Yahoo widget called weather bug for real-time, local wind). It's just no fun for me in higher winds, and I have been flying for over 25 years!

P901911

Sounds like you had your hands full there for a few minutes,
haven`t we all been there...
Can`t tell you how many planes I crashed when I was starting out, got
pretty good with the epoxy and creative repairs !
Finally started to come to my mind that any little thing can bring the plane down. Wind, weather, mechanics, distractions/disorientation, flying the thing out of site ! My old field was about 10 miles away from a major airport and back in the days of cheap can brushed motors, non isolated speed controls and AM band transmitters, (poor overtaxed receiver), I was regularly challenged by bursts from the control radar, shall we discuss "glitching" ! I was doing "3D" before it was even invented ! (Kidding, but I have never seen an RC plane do the things it did as when the radar would hit my plane). (Well, at least I thought it was radar since it would only do it when a large commercial jet was on approach)
Best of luck getting your machine back up in the air !

P901

rleed

Anyone had any intermittent radio trouble with the FW-190. I flew mine 4 times and it was flying great. On the 5th flight it "snap rolled" and dove strait in. Winds were dead calm, about 80% throttle and I was the only one at the field. Do these share frequencys with other R/C items like cars/boats. After I went out and picked it up everything except the engine was functioning normally (the gearbox was smashed). I sent it back to parkzone, just curious if anyone has had a similar experience. I also had the engine come to life uncommanded on two occasions! :-(

manuel frias

yes i had the same experince whith my plane and now i have to save up for a new air frame.

rleed

Did you call PZ and see if they could do anything for you. I'm kind of curious how they handle intermittent problems. All I really need is a replacement fuselage with electronics. We'll see.