flyingace451

Problem solved I presume? But how does that explain the super glitching? If it's really technical don't bother explaining, because I won't understand half of it. Just say "it just does"

critterhunter

No need to apologize. I'm a big boy who can take it and I didn't take it as seriously as you might think. Believe me, I stick my foot in my mouth a lot worse than that all the time! What you said wasn't really uncalled for or out of bounds. I just tend to be a bit paranoid about what "could" happen. You know, envisioning things like flying an RC plane and two hours later ending up in jail for causing a car wreck. With my kind of luck I have to think ahead.

somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

Sorry bout your bird, Gryphon... glad no one was hurt. [8D]

Glad you guys figured out what the culpit was. Looking forward to the new build results.

Keep us posted!

somegeek

Gryphon

Thanks somegeek,

GG and I have sent many PMs back and forth, I totally follow his line of reasoning and it is absolutely a possibility for the fire.

But I am not 100% convinced, just way too little left to tell for sure.

I do have friends who have pushed their packs near and also above the max BURST rating every so often for many months before having their batteries balloon.

While testing my old/old motor, a MEGA 16/25/3 with a 8X4, 8X6 and 8X8 I pulled 53A out of a TP 2100 prolite with 15C const=31.5A, 50A burst rating. Poor thing could not feed more than that and I was able to get a higher draw from my TP 4200 prolite. (3S? or 4S? need to double check)

Also as flyingace451 said; what about the glitches and no control?
To try and cover any and all possibilities, I am going to build some kind of a frame to sandwich the servos, re-enforce the trailing edge as buggygovroom has, use Spektrum 2.4 GHz radio to help disregard onboard generated RF noise if any, keep the ESC further away from everything, do a really long range test in a couple of fields. I will try and use those magnets that people wrap their ESC wire to receiver around to reduce the noise besides using an OPTO isolator. I have not sent my JR radio in for a look over by Horizon yet, but I will do it soon.

***check out this new radio, it is longer range/full range 2.4 GHz Spektrum due to be released in a month by Horizon hobby. In their search field type DX7 . or click link below.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Search/D...erm=dx7&CatId=

somegeek, one of the things that made me real happy while bummed about my plane, was seeing your video. Thanks. You did a great job.

Have fun everyone,
Gryphon

flyingace451

This is off topic from the crash, but that Spectrum has me interested! (20 memory, full range, how can it get better? *retorical question*)

drunkenbushman

GG You gonna be giving the script writers for NCIS and CSI tips soon!

yoster

I personally have absolutely ZERO interest in the spektrum radios. I like using the same transmitter for several aircraft.. as do others. The spektrum is obviously built for that, but the receiver for it however is rediculously expensive compared to the cheap hitec micro ones I use. Sure, the spektrum ones are loads better I'm sure.. but I don't NEED it (and no one else does either) for a stryker. I have had no problems with my micro ones I use.. and hitec advertises them as having a 1-mile range. I HIGHLY doubt it would do it, but I have never had reception issues.. so I don't worry about it.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXGZT0&P=ML
I can get two to three of those for the price of a single spektrum receiver.

maiden-crash

I just read what happened now sorry about that gryphon. Next time will be better.

Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

DB, Actually I'm under contract with the Men in Black.[8D]

Yoster, like everything new it's high priced, wait a year and see where it's at.

Actually I'm kicking myself right now, as I just bought a new Futaba 7 and the older version Spektrum.

I'll have to say though the Spektrum is the only Tx that will work in my shop. My old Futaba 6 and the new 7 both got interference from the florescent lamps, and if either of them were on, the stereo in the shop would just fade out. Turn the Tx off and the stereo would come right back on.

That and I've stepped on more then my share of long antennas on the back of birds. [X(]
The two little whiskers don't have that problem.

Phoenex

My Feedback: (1)

We have had interference at our field bringing down my Stryker and glitching my nephews Stryker using duel and single conversion quality rx's. You assume way too much and make a general statement "no one else does either" about interference that makes no sense. A quick check at these forums shows many posts about interference around the world. Paying $60 for an rx that works is cheap compared to other high end rx's that still get knocked down that costs twice as much not to mention losing the airplane/heli and having to rebuild and or replace it. You should feel blessed that you fly in a clean signal area. The Stryker damage was slight compared to other losses. I have tried 'everything' suggested to minimize the problem with no effect. I grew so frustrated that if it continued, I would have left the hobby.

Back to the subject of the thread. Having followed the start of this thread to the conclusion, I feel for your loss. Glacier Girl has kindly imparted words of wisdom to myself helping me and our group as well, I would follow his advice. While it may be very hard to tell exactly what happened, I am in agreement with GG about the batteries being overloaded. I and many others go just the opposite route making sure each part of the power system is only using 75-80% of it's maximum capacity and insure proper air flow over all parts of the power system. Following this formula increases the lifespan of the parts causing less stress and allows for extreme conditions like 90 degree weather. Have you explored the battery wire length as an issue? Castle Creations has stated that extra wire length can cause an inductance feedback into the ESC causing all kinds of havoc. I can see the need for CF reinforcement of the battery area and/or glassing the whole plane for body strength to handle the stresses with that much power. Good luck on your next build, I would love to see it in action!

Gryphon

I picked up my C.F. rods and C.F. tubes; I will be using the combination of above for a total of 6 feet length.

I have always listened and valued everything that GG has told me. My next batteries are going to be the TP Extreme series 3850-5S, 3850-6S, 3800-3S, and 2200-4S.
I have the first two and I am trying to get the next two.
I just soldered up my MEGA 16/25/2 (2650 KV) and CC80 ESC last night.
No more doubling up two packs in parallel for me, although TP tech said it was o.k. last time before my purchase. I'm not so sure anymore.

The 3850's are too heavy to balance with the MEGA 16/25/2 project, they will be used with MEGA 22/30/2 after it gets back into the country with the needed repairs.

Again, I want to thank all of my friends for their support and concerns, any and all comments are always appreciated.

Have fun,
Gryphon

VOLUNTEER

Great story Gryph, you have a talent for writing also. Keep up the good work, look to see your next Stryker flying soon. This thread goes in my Farorites!

flyingace451

I guess if you don't have to worry about interferance or other channels, and you don't fly tons of various types of aircraft, than a simple plain ole Tx will work fine. The Spektrum fits the bill for everything I want, hassle free channels (i've been shot down by a guy with another Tx, and I don't want it happening again), multiple memory (gotta love that), all of the basics I want to have (mixes, expo, etc...), and it works for helis. Plus, I'm a guy who just despises antennas hanging out of s. It just looks so ugly IMHO, so I normall glue them down under wings or burry them in the foam, but with Spektrum I wouldn't have to worry about this. Plus I've broken a fair amount of Tx antennas, and Spektrum would help there too.

If you're clumsy and careful when you fly, you won't need Spektrum. For everyone else, we need it

dabvid

Gryphon, really sorry to hear about that. it looked like an absolutely crazy stryker. atleast you can say you had a stryker that could push out 1 and a half KILOWATTS. good luck with the 16/25/2, it will still be bl***y fast....alot to fast for me.
Good Luck mate,
regards,
dave

Gryphon

dabvid,

As far as the MEGA 16/25/2 2650KV motor is concerned, I flew it around on 4S Thunder Power Extreme battery at 1330W. It was seriously fast. Climbing was out of this world.

I bench tested the 16/25/2 on 5S-3850 22C and Graupner CAM 5.5X5.5 and it made 1609W 33,300RPM as I remember, but I think that was too much for the motor. I'll fly it on 5S-3300 25C during this summer and prop it for 1400-1500W.

Next time I mount the 22/30/2 it'll be at 100+A. I've seen that the ultra conservative 35A rated 16/25/2 can live without damage at 80-90+Amps, so why shouldn't I push this same brand higher quality 70A rated motor to 100Amps? It'll be less of an over prop....LOL...
On 6S-3850 22C that will be a good 2000W.


Note: Do not hinge elevon's the way I did on this plane, when the elevon goes up there will be a huge gap and that will cause flutter. It was not the reason for my crash, but that is one of the few things that I did wrong and learned from. Wooden Trailing edge and paper hinges along with balsa elevon stock for elevon is the way to go. If the elevon is covered with a 1/32" plywood, it will get several times more stiff. Otherwise it'll barely be stiffer than a F-27C elevon. Use 3M Extreme tape to hold wooden T.E. in place (not just epoxy), and coat the elevon with something to protect the wood. I used some epoxy mixed with rubbing alcohol and then brushed it on. Not the smoothest finish, but it made the Elevon even stronger.


Gryphon