reaperofsoulz

Thanks for the welcome tam popo, i do plan to run a li-po, infact its in the mail as we speak(the 3900 3S i have in my spitfire is to big to pull in and out of the engine bay and stays in there,so i can't use that one. Good news, i got the maiden flight out today...the rain clouds broke for a few hours on this sunday and i grabbed my planes and my buddy grabbed his Twister EDF and I hit the skys. I first ran the stock Stryker battery 8.4 1000mAh, thats our rule...stock setup first. It flew like a dream, a little twitchy cause i never use the "A" mode on the tX but i got it down and was flying smooth in no time. She can barrel roll at least 3 times in a row with out getting to low and needing correction. I couldn't get it to do a back-flip worth a darn, it rolls like a champ but not good at loops, my spitfire however loves back loops and drops down a lot on barrel rolls. Testing unlimited vertical i'd say stock it went vertical for about 20 feet until rolling over and speeding toward the earth. I may have gotten 15 minutes when the battery cut-off killed the engine and she soared gracefully for a 3 point landing. The battery was a little warm but the motor was nice and cool and no heat coming from the fuselage electronic i put in the stock battery from my Spitfire ,a 10.8v 1000mah. I could hear the power difference instantly. That flew strong for maybe 7-10 min and it was another perfect 3 point landing...this baby lands herself.
After that it was time to maiden my buddys Twister EDF Jet ... nicknamed today The Spruce-Goose. At a weight of near 3 pounds we were concerned about the power to weight issue, and with a 5000mAh battery weighing a pound by itself we were even more concerned. We have a smaller powerful lipo that didnt seem charged enough at the time...sounded weak. He put a layer of S glass along the entire bottom which looks really nice and held up great for the first couple diggers it took due to the elevator bieng reversed...duh. After that little fix he threw and i flew...it flewe alright but pretty much just at a down angle for about 50 feet and landed...it wanted to fly across the grass once landed but it wasnt going anywhere in the air. We're now thinking14.8v lite as possible battery and it should be golden.
Last but not least before the winds got too crazy my most faithful of all birds my Spitfire Mk11b, stock 480 gear driven motor with 11.1v 3900mAh battery...man i love this plane. I got about 25 minutes of 70-100% throttle the whole time with that big battery and the weight isn't an issue at all for this bird. Cuban eights, loops and barrel rolls along with some high speed fly-bys , my favorite, i came in for a not so perfect but non damaging landing due to the winds getting rougher.
I should have stopped there but plugged in my stryker battery to charge and played with my rc boat for a half hour or so and took the stryker out again because people were saying it liked the wind. Yes at altitude i was having a great time at half throttle soaring in the wind but got a little lower for some high speed stuff and shouldnt have done that in the wind. It got a little squirrly..left, right, left, right and ended up facing the wind while i was trying to get elevation and she did a back flip on me, finally, but landed at the bottom of the back flip on the belly. Hard landing but only damage is the end of the wing the aileron broke free...im headed to Area 51 (my RC garage name) to CA it and do some reinforcing. All in all a great maiden flight day for the stryker, excellent fun with the Spitfire...and we learned a few lessons and things to do better with the Twister Jet.

reaperofsoulz

After enjoying the first flight out it was time for some mods. I hate when people say this but i will try and post pix when i get home to my own computer. Nothing that hasn't already been done in here, I fixed the last landing damage with some CA and a carbon fiber rod through the aileron...good as new.

Then knowing that im going to be beefing up the battery I pulled off the entire top hatch including the glued front cover and the electronics cover thats held in with plastic nails. Those nails wieght .5g, i had my scale so i measured things for record. I glued the 2 black covers together so that i can hold the cover on with some true earth magnets. If anyone can't find them I just called radioshack and they have all different sizes. I also took my dremel and modified the air grills. I doubled the size of every other one and also dremeled new grill slots in the black cover that had none, it looks cool and will allow better air flow for sure.

Speaking of airflow those fake airducts on my fuselage are now real airducts. I dremeled the square out and "coned" it back toward the battery compartment...i finished the hole with a 1/2" drill and painted the inside black. It looks awesome plus i blew some cigarette smoke through the hole and it works like a champ.

Since i'm going to be holding the battery cover on with magnets I took out that black plastic that the lid clips on for wieght, that wieghed 1 gram and the plastic part that extends from the cover i cut off and it wieghed .5g

The next step was to take my razor blade then dremel and smooth out the entire battery compartment. I got it completely flat both on the sides and bottom and then painted it black. This will allow my bigger lipo that i plan to use as well as took out about .3g of excess foam. If I include the possible .2g of plastic i melted from the grill area plus everthing else I took out, I lost about 3 grams of weight and increased airflow through the fuselage dramatically with this simple and almost fun modification. I know the true earth magnets will add a gram or so back but it will make battery access so much easier and well worth it.

The final step was to simple epoxy in some velcro straps to hold in the battery since my cover no long snaps on safely. Well thats it for now, this is a great thread and almost everything i just mentioned above was done in prior posts...so thanks [>:]

tam popo

Reaper - Its nice to hear of a good maiden, nice one!! You seem to be well clued up on the mods and there's nothing really I can add except Critt says (and I agree) one third intake, 2 thirds exhaust - to take the hot air away fast. You seem to have arrived at the border crossing, one more step and you enter the Dark Side, oh ReaperofSoulz, and its Grimm!!!! Oh, I presume you took out the 1/2in. ball bearing from the nose cone, it needs digging out. Bye for now.....

critterhunter

Yea, I've got all the test data out there for this motor. Was just curious to here from whoever threw one on the Stryker. I could have swore somebody did a while back and did some flights with it. Probably burried in the Dark Side thread somewhere.

critterhunter

Welcome to the wonderful world of Stryker modding. The stock body comes with two small carbon rods, but not the two tubes we glue nose to tail and wing tip to wing tip. See page 1 of this thread for pictures of what's stock and what's not. You'll be suprised just how much abuse the body can take with the extra tubes thrown in there and the Extreme tape. My advice would be not to modify the original (painted) body until you've wrecked/fixed it a few times. Why destroy the looks of a factory paint job right away with mods? Regardless of how badly you wreck it you'll be able to glue it back together for more flights. Just be sure to pick up all your little foam bits. That's when to mod it with the Extreme tape/tubes. Remember that tape doesn't stick well to paint, so sand it off before putting some on.

Took Streaker out for some more flights the other night. Still using the 7x6 SF prop. Forgot my memory card for my camcorder so I didn't do any dopper recordings yet. Still have to try different props and doppler the speeds.

critterhunter

Good to see your concerned about weight. With a 480 brushed motor weight is your enemy. I'd avoid using the carbon tubes/gorilla glue and just Extreme tape it for now where it needs it (under motor mount, etc, as in the build steps). Then again, if you are running it on a lipo you can get by with more weight. On a brushless build I'm not too concerned about weight. My 26 ounce bird handled the high winds the other night like a champ.

critterhunter

Took the streamlined Stryker out Saturday for three or four flights with no problems. I am by no means done playing with the 12T and various props, and when I am I'll do a re-wind on it with a wind a friend came up with before being done with it on the Stryker. However, I just bought a Go Brushless triple stator kit. Some time in the future I'll be throwing it with a custom wind onto the beast. [8D]. As said before, a friend has winded a few of these motors on his Strykers and the results are wicked. Based on the motor specs he's sent me (think I posted them here), this motor is the most efficient and powerful motor in it's class that I've seen. Anybody interested in it can flip back a few pages and find stats and other info. Probably mid summer, when I get around to winding it and throwing it on the Stryker, I'll post wind steps, motor specs, etc, to wrap it all up in a nice summary. In no way bored or done playing with the 12T. Still scares me at times.

By the way, check out the new Loong Max lipos on United Hobbies website. I'm hearing great things about them and they are priced real cheap like the HXT packs. I've got a 15C 2250ma 3 cell pack for $16 on the way. I would have prefered a 20C but a friend ordered it for me. Should still work fine with the 12T on the Stryker.

reaperofsoulz

[8D] hi , thanks for the comments and the heads up about the nose cone weight...i had no idea. Your lucky if they gave you a cool 1/2" ball bearing to play with, all mine had was a hefty screw plugged in there. That should help out a lot for when i put my Lipo in there.
My most recent attempt to use the lipo i think the weight was a huge factor. I was using a 3900 mAh 11.1v and it wieghs at least 2 of the stock batteries and the stryker didnt like that at all. The first attempt it pretty much did a nose dive, after that I adjusted the Elevons for a slight but constant lift and tossed her out again. This time it went straight out really fast and it was all i could do pulling back on the stick trying to gain height, about 100 feet out (right before the trees) it gains some lift and flips up and over starting to head back. I killed the power and full back on the stick bring it in for a landing, i went to collect her thinking this is not gonna work. Weeeelll lucky me one of the 9 Li-po's I have coming in the mail showed up today, an 11.1v 2200 mAh 25C ( i just checked and it's not charging, gonna have to switch chargers, hmmmm) This lipo i think will be perfect, light weight and high C rating. After 2 days of wind I decided today at lunch wind or not im going flying. Stock battery in the stryker and it was the most fun i've had in a while, i watched an F-22 demo video on youtube and was trying some of the aerobatics...awesome. If i can get this lipo to charge i'll take it out tomorrow and see what it can do. Seeya

reaperofsoulz

Did someone say bulletproof stryker???

Above is some heavy mat Carbon fiber and the yellow is Kevlar.

Above is the beginning stages of a Kevlar reinforced motormount area, I noticed after just one heavy belly flop with my stryker the entire area around the motor was cracked and broken, another flight and i bet the motor would have took off on its own leaving the body of the stryker behind.
In an effort to minimize down time i've got a major remodel in mind for the stryker. Kevlar reinforced motormount area was the first step. The next step is a layer of S glass (stronger grade fiberglass) along the entire bottom which will permanently attach the nose cone and come up over the wings about 2 inches. The entire plane will be more rigid in flight and very well protected from almost any kind of landing. After hot gluing the nose cone in place i shoved 2 carbon fiber rods down each side of the nose into the fuselage, i call those my landing sticks because that lower front area is where most the landing take place. I put smaller reinforcment rods in the Elevons and tips of the wings which is a bit over kill because this fiberglass is great stuff...my buddy already covered the bottom half and nose of his plane in S glass and I have seen this plane take some real hits with minimal damage...actually no visible damage. More pix to come as the process continues. My main goal here is maximum protection with minimal weight.

critterhunter

Welcome and WOW! You REALLY are building a bullet proof Stryker! [8D] Keep us updated and show more pictures.

reaperofsoulz

Tonight should be the final night of work then she's primered and ready to maiden before the true paint coat goes on her. Plenty of more pictures are bieng uploaded and will be posted shortly. Last night we layed the topside motor mount out of carbon fiber, it looks so good (almost like a wicked snake skin) so im going to make a carbon fiber hatch cover so the entire center area with all the electronics and battery will be CF as well as the motor mount, it'll look really good. Also after checking the performance ratings of the fibers we discover kevlar has a much great impact resistance compared to the carbon fibers high strength against tears or bieng pierced, a perfect candadite for the front wings...more to come

reaperofsoulz

Entire bottom is covered in S glass

A close up of the grip holes to show that there is a layer of fiberglass

Unfortunately my finger grips didnt work as planned...i had hoped to have just a small indent to maintain aerodynamics but the glass didnt poke in far enough and is now to hard to do anything but dremel away the glass around the hole and use it as normal.

Heres a down shot of the nose to show how its taking shape very well


Here is the Kevlar mat being cut to shape for the wing edges

and both the carbon fiber and kevlar ready to apply

reaperofsoulz

The post above leaves off with mats cut and the bird ready for masking before application. I knew how i was going to lay the fiberglass out as a design so the masking went rather quick.

The taping was all done by hand with no measuring...looks about 2 inches is what i wanted. The Kevlar layer laying over the wing will butt-up perfectly to the sanded fiberglass beneath and will need to be stone cut with my dremel and then sanded smooth for a clean, strong razor edge (not actually sharp).

As you can see below and i'm sure you'll agree with me when i say the carbon fiber looks bad@$$...exspecially over that hump. Which gave me the idea to cover the entire battery/esc compartment with carbon fiber to replace the cheesy plastic hatchs with a larger full length carbon fiber hatch. If you look at the green tape the top of the CF engine mount will be angled back slighty just for looks. The funny look in part of the carbon fiber i guess is the camera flash and the resin because its wet in that pic. As well as the next 2.

A close up of around the working air intakes...you can see from the green tape toward the front i also angled the kevlar for a kind of flying falcons look (coincidental).


All wet and smoothed out ready to sit in the bathroom with the heater on all night to bake. Im off work and just posting some pics before im off to the shop to dremel and sand. I'll throw a quick primer on and with any luck be ready to re-maiden the remodeled Stryker (even though i work i will find a way)


My original thoughts for the paint job were to keep all the kevlar and CF original colors. I would sand them with weaker and weaker grit sand paper until it was smooth as glass and then put some HOK Kosmic Klear on there for depth and shine. This will still be the final step for the whole plane but things changed. I noticed after a coat of resin the kevlar became see through showing the ugly scuffed foam beneath, that won't work, but the carbon fiber is going to stay the same. The paint job will still keep the foam and kevlar different colors but it just wont be it cool yellow Kevlar color, the yellow is only cool because it says hey thats kevlar.

critterhunter

Wow, that thing is looking good. I like the "snake skin" look as well. Keep us updated. One tip: If you do a "stretch/skew" in paint down to about 35% for both horizontal and vertical it'll make the picture about perfect size for messages.

I just got my triple stator Go Brushless motor. [8D] This is the one that I've talked about a friend using on his Stryker. It's specs when winded properly are more efficient and powerful than anything I've seen. The speed is killer, and at only $30 for the kit you won't find a faster or more efficient motor at any price in it's class. I'm going to wind it using one of his custom winds. The motor is also very versatile in what you can do with it based on windings/magnet placement. It normaly comes with the magnets pre-installed but we requested them not be in place as we are doing a different magnet configuration. What I'm shooting for is under 30 amps with as close to 30 ounces of thrust as possible while keeping "best speed" I can get at that. Will be swinging somewhere around a 6 or 7" prop. This motor can be winded for a bit lower thrust and the speed increased but my Streaker is heavy (old epoxy in body from pre-gorilla glue days) and so I need as close to 30 ounces of thrust as possible. I'd still expect the speed to be VERY good. Will be posting a winding "How To" guide along with photos as I go along with some other specs that we've already figured out for this motor winded this way. Might not happen soon but soon enough. Not sure when I'll be throwing it on Streaker. By Summer I'd guess.

reaperofsoulz

thanks for the tip with the pictures, i thought they looked a little big. That sounds like the kind of motor setup im gonna need, so is $30 just the motor case and then you need to wind it? I've never wound a motor but it sounds like the best way to tune for specific needs. I have a 2200kv + 18A esc coming that i plan to use with the Xtyrker (the new name for now). How do you think that will work and what prop would be best?

Update: She has yet to see her maiden flight yet so you havent missed nothing yet. The Law "The one thing that can go wrong will" holds true. As well protected as the shell of the plane is a tiny servo can ruin the entire day. I must have mashed it or something while moving the plane around sanding or something because as soon as everything was hooked up first thing i did was a ground test. It sounded like the fiberglass was overlapping and hitting an Elvron so i cut away any excess and tryed again but it was the servo clicking. I pulled it apart and there is a single took broke which is throwing the whole thing off. Anyway Super Decathlon as a donor plane the servo is fixed and the plane was primered last night and ready to maiden as soon as it stops raining...about a week

I added a dean connector to the original reciver and kept the Ni-cd took up aswell just incase


Closeup of carbon fiber and motor mounted...i wrote lipo on the lipo prop just to be sure


And the last pic i have until my camera battery died...she has been sanded much much more sonce this pic and has a couple coats of primer on there.


I made a carbon fiber hatch which weighs only 16 grams and replaces both of the old covers which weigh im guessing 25 g (havent wieghed yet but will fill in true weight) thats including the xport extension i took out. You will notice when done the entire top will be completely smooth for aerodynamics but no grills for venting. This solution will be tested and modified as need be but heres what i did. (pictures to be added)
I dremeled out the fake airvents and drilled a 1/2 drill into the middle on both sides...plenty of air moving through. Since my top and bottom motor mount area are now sandwiched together I drilled a center hole which leads from the interior where the wires lay and lead out. The center rear area is now like an exhaust...well it IS my exhaust pics to come

critterhunter

Looking good. Instead of wiring up two battery plugs, why not just wire up an adaptor that will allow you to plug the old style battery plug into the new Dean's ultra. That way you won't carry both on the plane when you are using a lipo with a Deans. Better yet, snip off the old plugs from all your packs and put Deans on them. Just remember, only clip one battery lead at a time so it doesn't short. Those stock plugs are notorious for coming loose in flight and also have more resistance than Deans, which means slightly less power being output to the motor.

I'll have more info on that motor and the wind soon. Off the top off my head, an 18 amp ESC is a little low for most speed Stryker projects. Well, it will handle a BP21 alright, but it's much more comon to buy a 30 amp ESC to handle most motors being used on a Stryker (most, not all). The 12T or this Go Brushless motor with the wind I'm using will stay below the 30 amp level. The motor can be bought with the magnets already installed but I don't believe they sell it winded (haven't checked). If they do, it isn't this custom wind as the magnet configuration is also different. It comes with wire to wind the motor and their site has some good "how to" info on it. However, I'll be throwing up the wind steps and further info. The motor is very impressive in quality. Not only that, I'm amazed at just how light it feels. Have to throw it on the scale to compare to the 12T. They sell dual and single stator versions as well which are very good, but with the triple, put in as simple of terms as possible, it mostly comes down to more power at less heat (total watts capable).

afpe45

@reaperofsoulz,
I thought you would have gone or the new motor mount from PZ.
afpe45.

reaperofsoulz

I plan to make a whole new motor mount when i go brushless so im not to concerned now.



hey critter thanks for the input...ya 18A is a low esc but it was a combo deal with the motor, i will upgrade as needed for larger motors. Also the original plan was to make all my batterys dean connectors (even the ni-cd) but my bunch of deans i bought online are in the mail so the best dean concerving method was this. [&:] it'll do

critterhunter

The new mounts are so much better, but the old ones work fine provided you strengthen right. Flip the motor mount on it's side and you'll see a kind of "V" channel between the base and the rings. Mix up some epoxy and let it start to harden to where it's getting think and won't run. Now spoon that into the channel and fill it up. After it hardens do the channel on the other side of the mount. When they break they tend to like to break right there.

Keep us posted on your progress. I had a blast with the 27B Stryker as it was only my second plane (Challenger, and did fly a friend's Extreme some). It's funny how some of your best memories of flying are with planes that had much less performance than what we fly now. Learning on the 27B was very useful, and luckily it glues back together well so many times. I'd recommend it to any newbie as a first plane. I know it's not as easy to fly in some respects (but easier in others) than your typical trainer, but it can take punishment. Same goes with the Challenger, a great plane to learn on.

Since you appear to be cutting your teeth on a brushed Stryker, I say enjoy and don't rush yourself. Once you've played with it enough and feel the need to step up in performance I'd suggest the 2408-21 (BP21). It was the brushless motor that fueled the dark side thread for a long time and gave many of us our first taste of brushless motors and lipos. It's speed is real good and it will do unlimited V if you keep the weight down. Thanks to the hard work of those like Cadetman we settled on the APC 7x6SF prop as best for it. It'll draw, from memory, I think around 14 to 16 amps, so you will be fine with the 18 amp ESC. You're lipo needs to be at least 10C at 2000 or more MA to power it, but buy a 20C 2200MA and you have room to grow. Check out the HXT or LoongMax packs from United Hobbies, or the LazerToys pack. All three are about as cheap as it gets yet seem to be good batteries.

reaperofsoulz

nice...the stryker is my second plane as well, the first bieng my favorite to fly yet the Spitfire. Your right I am just cutting my teeth here and just want to be able to go out, enjoy and fly not worried about having a week of down time just because a blade of tall grass flips my plane during a landing cracking the wingtip (this actually happened...good landing turned bad with the drop of a wing) It seems if something can break it will, a fully reinforced body and a simple servo has delayed my maiden flight, now its raining for a week. [&o] I WANT TO FLY!!! haha it's been to long since i've had a successful full flight and landing. The spitfire crashed leaving me with the stryker and SD...the SD prop broke taxing around my backyard and the stryker took a hard landing busting up the motormount area which has brought it in for major repairs. To add to that I could have got a prop and flown the super decathlon but i needed a transplant servo when the strykers went out leaving the SD out of commission for a while. Now the only thing keeping the newly reinforced Stryker w/ LiPo out of the sky is a whole bunch of rain. On a good note my Spitfire and my buddys P-51 Mustang should be coming in the mail today Tonight is the build nite and then if there is even a 30min break in the rain we will try and fly tomorrow. wish us luck and the Xtryker luck on her remodeled maiden

critterhunter

Any update on your maiden of the bullet proof body?

I've got some early information on the wind I'm going to use for the Go Brushless Triple Stator Kit. My friend who turned me on to this motor and his custom winds for it did some calculations for this particular wind. As said, I compromised a little on speed to get the thrust close to 30 ounces so my heavy Stryker can do unlimited V. I still expect it to be wicked fast, and will have more specs posted soon...

Efficiency of 77% at 30 Amps. Peak efficiency at 19 Amps (79% efficient). 7X6 prop probably will give best performance. It is a 5T WYE motor (1800 kv). We opted for them not to pre-install magnets, and used 12 for this setup. Photos and more info/specs sooner or later...

reaperofsoulz

still held down by the rain....the spitfire is in built though. I figured with the rain and wind for the next couple days i would once again like my first spitfire line the edge of the wing tips and bottom surfaces with paint protection film that is made for vehicle bumpers and hood...strong and durable. I plan to sand a whole lot on the Xtryker but thats about it until the skys clear.

>>>> I was reading somewhere in these millions posts about stryker mods that the stock PZ recievers can be used for a brushless setup...something about the negative wire to the positive of the motor or something. Can someone pleease enlighten me on this because i have no other radio and want to use the stryker reciver and add a BL motor and esc.

critterhunter

The 27B RX/ESC is lipo compatible if you set a jumper correctly on it. To use a brushless motor with a parkzone RX/ESC you need to buy a $30 interface, of which I think there are two or three companies selling. What it does it take the negative wire that would normaly go to the brushed motor and use it for a signal input on the interface for throttle. The interface then plugs into any brushless ESC to power the brushless motor. I've talked to a few guys using this setup that haven't had any problems, other than Parkzone servos being more prone to stripping than the typical HS81 servos most of us use.

reaperofsoulz

thanks for the info critter...can you PM or say in here more info on this interface.

UPDATE: First off Im finished sanding and ready for paint but wanted to get the first flight out when i could. She weighs in at 27oz. withOUT battery, I used my 25C 1500 11.1v Lipo that weighs only 100g/3oz. so flying weight was 30oz.I finally got around to the Maiden flight, as usual i forgot to warm my battery so the first throw was a nose dive...the second throw i was pulling back on the controller like i was playing a mean game of playstation trying to stay afloat. Luckily after a few seconds the amps started to flow and she was soaring higher and higher. With this extra strengthening the response is really quick...like flying a board with an engine. I dive into a turn and it's almost a few steps ahead of me...im amazed at how fast she is still. Before the remodel, I only had a chance to use the ni-cd batteries and stock prop but knew i'd need the lipo/prop for the extra weigh and it works like a champ. The fear of crashing is almost none because of the reinforcments i've made, however i do fly near a lake and want nothing to do with landing in that. Its been raining for weeks and was basically the calm before the next storm that i got to fly in so it was windy. I flew til the battery cut off, maybe 10-15 impressive. The glide characteristics were still great soaring in powerless for a landing, i had to keep it into the wind and ended up about 2 feet into the marshy reeds but came out without a scratch on her. I'd recommend a layer of fiberglass along the bottom of all planes or even more protection like i did. I could have flown all day if not for the wind but on a nice day im going to run through my whole battery box. Very pleased at the results and will post some pix asap, it's still in primer stage but a paint job is already designed. Thanks for keeping updated on my project Stryker (no longer named the Xtryker, new name to come with paint)

edit: I have that brushless and esc on the way that i still plan to put in the stryker but with this stock brushless 480 pushing 30oz. like its nothing im gonna run that til it dies.

tam popo

Hiya Critt, Reaper!! - Finaly got out today and just happened to have the Sonosatan in the boot (trunk!!) with TX but only 2 2s packs charged, no problem. The wind was howling, gusting 25mph but I thought "What the hell!! and chucked it up on the 2S. It shot skywrds into wind and away across wind, but it was flying!!! That proves that it does fly well. But I was afraid to loose it so brought it in quick, only a broken motor mount, just pennies and an easy fix. Here's some pics and latest spec, by the way the last pic is of it mocked up for 2 E-Max motors (2822) but I need the wiring diagram for 2 esc's: Specs: front mounted E-Max 2822, 1000 2S lipo, 25A esc and BIG Futaba 3003 servos (only ones I had left!!). Weight all-up 25oz. See ya later.....