critterhunter

Just realized that link won't post correctly on here. Just go to H*bby City's ("*" is an "o") website and look for the Turnigy Accucel 6 $36 charger. Really a nice charger for the money.

Larry Driskill

The stock motor on my Stryker (F27C) slowed in the air today and although it continued to run at a slow speed, there was no "full throttle" available.

I exchanged the ESC for another and there was no change - still only low RPM.

I exchanged the motor (for another stock one) and that solved the problem.

I had been running a 7X3 prop. Do you suppose that was too much load?

Can someone recommend some motors that will bolt on the stock mount? I'm not necessarily looking for more power.

tam popo

Larry - hiya!! I don't have or have ever had a F27C, only modded bare fuselage's with brushless outrunners!! Does the motor you want have to be an inrunner or aren't you bothered. There are many advantages of outrunners if you can get the mounting right, they run cooler, loads of power, plentiful but the main one - they are cheap!! I've used Towerpro's, E-Max etc but my favourite was the Hyperion 1913 6-pole pushing out about 220W, 2500Kv and very light. Most of the guys here will have suggestions as well. Good luck......

Larry Driskill

Well, I suppose it could be an Outrunner, but I would like to use the stock mount and that would be an Inrunner.

Thank You.

critterhunter

Larry, you can use an outrunner in the stock mount but it will hang off the back of it. It's very easy to do and if you look in the first page or two of this thread I've got details and pictures on how to do that. Most Stryker guys use outrunners due to the great combination of torque and speed. Inrunners tend to have higher RPM but less torque, swinging a smaller prop.

The streamlined Stryker is done and now has a custom aluminum motor mount as the stock one was getting tricky to trim the thrust angle in at the speed/power this triple stator Go Brushless with custom wind puts out. With the motor more directly behind the body instead of above it the thrust angle is easier to dial in. It was never a problem with the BP21, 12T, or other motors I've played with up until now but this little devil is putting out some serious juice. The bird's only had a few short flights as it either had too much up or down thrust as I played with the stock mount, so I haven't been able to soak in the speed let alone clock it yet but will soon with updates and promised photos of further mods I've done to the latest version of Streaker.

reaperofsoulz

hey hey all I'm still flying and so is the Wing Commander (my bulletproof stryker) I've gotten it as fast as she's ever gone last weekend but i guess it was to fast since i went home that day with a burnt 80A ESC and puffed up 2 lipo's. It was pulling about 60 amps constant so i dont know why the ESC went out except for the fact it was an ebay cheapy...pulling that much amps has to be why the batteries are worthless now. My plan has worked perfectly so far, with a near industructable body I can feel free to play as much as I want with the electronics to try and get the perfect setup. Where can I get some top-quality (for the price) batteries with at least a 30amp discharge? Critterhunter, do you have a pic of your custom aluminium motor mount, i've found that was the best way to go aswell.

mcfast

All stock Stryker, with a APC sport 7"X 5 cut down to 6.75", faster then all stock and verticals are much better, flit times a little shorter, but much more fun!

critterhunter

I'll be posting the as promised latest mods to the Streamlined Stryker soon, along with the aluminum motor mount I made. Simple but strong. I'd prefer using the 27C mount but this custom wound motor is really pushing it, and mounting above the body makes thrust angle more sensitive than a custom job directly behind it.

As far as batteries go, check out the Zippy, HXT, or Long Max packs from Hobby City ($20 to $30). The Zippy has various letter designations (like K, R, and H) for capacity and quality, with the best being made in Korea. The Long Max probably has the most positive feedback but I think they are phasing those out in favor of the Zippy. The HXT used to be a great pack until a bad batch came out last year that puffed if you looked at it wrong. I read that the company almost went under with all the free replacements they had to hand out so they are being REAL careful about doing a good job with the lastest formulation, as one more problem could put them under. I bought two of these latest packs (yellow shrink wrap) a month or so ago. They've got about 10 cycles on them so far and no problems yet. They power output seems real good as well.

Update on the $36 Turnigy charger sold by Hobby City: This is the charger that has all the features of $100 to $250 "brand name" chargers. Like this charger a lot. I'm LOVING the "FAST CHARGE" mode for lipos in the field. This feature doesn't charge at a higher amp rate but rather cuts out the end of the charge where the amp rate drops to a crawl. This stage is often time consuming and doesn't put more than say 200 or 300 MA of more campacity back into the pack. Something you'll probably not even notice in flight. Another advantage is a little lower risk of overcharging if for some reason something goes wrong. I'm finding that after a good long flight (but not hitting LVC) and then throwing my 3 cell 2200ma lipo back on the unit in fast charge that the pack is ready to go again in about 30 minutes. This jives with what Turnigy says...that avoiding the slow tail end charge can shave as much as 30 minutes off the charge time. I feel it's easier on your packs as well. This mode will also balance charge your pack provided it's also plugged into the balancing port along with the battery plug, just like regular balance charging mode. I haven't noticed the slightly lower capacity in flight.

critterhunter

As I come to the completion of several platforms I'm finally starting to sort through photos/info/stats/mods/etc and will be throwing up some stuff here soon, if not today. To begin with, here's the long promised specs on the Go Brushless (GBX) Triple Stator motor with custom wind that a friend perfected. It's a 4 Turn WYE, 3 strands 24 gauge 200 degree C wire (you'll have to get this wire VERY hot to short it!). Max amps is about 36 (can handle more, this is just the safe zone). K/V 2150. Io 1.9 amps.

On a HXT 3 cell 2250ma 20C lipo and 7x5 APC E prop static run it produced 34 amps and 36 ounces of thrust. On a 6x5.5 APC E it produced 28 amps and 27 ounces of thrust. On the same prop a Long Max 20C 2200ma 3 cell pack produced 33 amps and 33 ounces of thrust. This wind will range 80 to 90+% efficent depending on the prop used.

This motor can be bought with the magnets pre-installed or loose. We bought it pre-installed in the standard configuration. Keep in mind that you can go to an even faster wind but I wanted to insure really good unlimited V on this heavy bird (lots of old epoxy in it from my pre-gorilla glue days).

A few more tests from the thrust stand. I don't think this was from my motor but rather an identical GBX with an identical wind. Don't know what brand 3 cell lipos were used.

APC: 7x5E - 36 Amps, 37.5 oz thrust - 82% electrical efficiency
APC 6X5.5E - 31 Amps 20 oz thrust - 85% electrical efficiency

Motor can be found here. If you want the magnets loose for a custom configuration you must Email them, but as they are it's one wicked fast/powerful motor that is very efficient and moderate on the amp draw. We haven't found anything better yet, factory built or custom.

http://www.gobrushless.com/shop/inde...dshow&ref=GBx3

Here's an excellent thread my friend wrote on winding motors. I think it also contains information on this motor and ka-450H from Don's RC that is pretty popular among Stryker owners.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=tutorial

critterhunter

Got to take the Stryker sporting this motor out a few days ago. It's a monster in both speed and torque, with at least twice the performance in both respects over the 12T if not more. In fact, scared me so much that I refuse to fly it anywhere but at my friend's farm until I scrape the rust off my Stryker flying skills! I'm going to doppler the speed and also try to get a video up of it soon. I've also been sorting through my build photos to show the latest streamlining mods and will post them soon. Have to in order to make more room on my pocket camcorder's compact flash card for my AP (camera) plane I just got done. Getting some amazing video/still shots with it in the air.

critterhunter

First of the latest streamlining mods. Remember that this body has been through the wringer for a couple of years, so excuse it's looks with out a good covering. I've also since thrown an aluminum motor mount on to replace the stock one and will have updated photos of that.

Notice the channels that go back to inside the hollow fins. I figured that since the hollow fins to hide the control linkages would produce a vaccum anyway at the back where they are open, why not use this to my advantage to help draw the air out of the battery chamber? One of the basic rules I've learned about treating are in heating and air conditioning trade school (Just graduated with highest grade!) is that the process involves taking it from where it's not wanted and putting it where it doesn't matter...or can be used in a beneficial way. There is already turbulence at the back of these fins, so rather than adding more by venting directly out of the back of the canopy to keep the battery cool, I'd put it where it already exists and won't matter. Minor, I know, but little things add up.

The exit vent channels are larger than the entry to avoid any backflow which could create drag. The entry to the vent channels has a "V" shape to guide the air with less resistance, and the bend into the fins is gradual to also avoid this. Another HVAC thing...resistance to flow at elbows can restrict flow, so they need to be as gradual as possible. The canopy has it's air intake at the front to keep the battery cool. So far it's working very well with the battery not even slightly warm.

Last photo is of the wing tips cut off. These would make good fins if somebody wanted to put them to use, and have a built in rudder as well.

More pictures of that and other mods later.

oly_rcer

well after using a lot of the mods in this forum i finally maidened my stryker today. bought the replacement airframe which is a b model modified the motor mount and used the carbon tubes in the wing and fuse braced it up with duct tape instead of packaging tape cause i ran out(i always have 2 or 3 rolls of duct tape tho lol put a tp 2409/12 with a tp25a esc, 2200mh mystery 3s 15c,spectrum ar6100. first launch my buddy hand launched and i left the throttle off till after it left his hand mild with slight gusts to about 10-15 mph,soon as i hit the throttle it started climbing level out 3 clicks of down and 2 clicks right and it flew straight and level chopped the throttle and it stayed level so motor was okay using low rates with 40%expo what a rush afraid to try on high rates yet flew into the wind then turned and went full throttle oh hell whered it go and which way is it pointing? finally got it upright by seeing the fins but didnt know which way it was going after i saw it getting smaller i did a half loop with a rol and brought it backcut throttle about 50yrds out and 40 ft up came into the wind and landed as pretty as can be.second flight was more of the same what a blast i do need to paint the bottom bright color since it gets away so fast.had a 7x4 prop on it batt wasnt even warm when i brought it in after about 8 min or so had a 7x6 prop with me but dont think i'm ready for that yet,maybe next time.this thing flys well and will glide forever think i'm gonna like this for a fun plane,more controllable than my miglet and a lot more faster than my bipe

critterhunter

Glad you found the thread useful. You'll like the 12T motor, and wait to you try an 8x6E on it! Even with the props you are using now be careful about the amp draw. At least on the 8x6 it'll draw around 30 amps. Make sure you're ESC is getting really good airflow. you're battery also is getting a little stressed. It's always a good idea not to draw more than 80% of the continuous C raiting of the pack. I prefer 2200ma 3 cell 20C (25 to 30C would be an even better idea) on all my planes. I find it to be the most universal size on everything to smaller/lighter to faster/heavier park flyers.

Just one more streamlining mod to be done to the Stryker and then I'll be trying some doppler recordings to gauge speed and will post results.

critterhunter

Looks like many of the Zippys, Long Max, and HXT packs have now been phased out at Hobby City in favor of an extensive line called Rhino lipos. So far every review I've read has been positive, with several people even saying they are better than the Polyquest packs which cost about three times as much. I just ordered some 2250ma 3 cell 25C packs and will report back on how they do. At only $29 the price is great. The same pack in a 20C is only like $22 to $26.

avalentine

Has anyone tried making a twin (push-pull) stryker. I saw Tams attempt a while back and wanted to know if it ever flew. I've got 2 Xtra 2826/09 outrunners, 1 of which is already on my stryker and I"m thinking of taking the nose off and mounting the other one on the front. These are 1820kv motors and they hum with either a 7x5 or a 6x5.5 prop. Just wanted to know if its ever been succesfully done before. I'll keep you guys posted.

tam popo

Aveltine - an update on the cut-down Stryker (twin motor) called SonOfSatan. I mounted everything (2 esc's, 2 Emax 2805's, 1 1800 3S) but for some reason both motors were not getting the full power of the Lipo, I suspect my wiring was the problem. I never got to figure out why, so I reverted back to a single E-Max 2805 2300Kv, 125W motor rear-mounted to get a decent flight on 1500 3S (but short). The idea was to reduce weight to a bare minimum, and it worked!!! Great, fast flights but not too good in high winds.
There are one of two new EPP planes with forward-mounted motors that are simlar to the Stryker available (Ram). The idea is interesting if that were applied to a Stryker, 'cos then you could mount the lipo anywhere rearward to achieve perfect CoG.......

critterhunter

Never got around to taking a picture of my streamlined Stryker in it's latest form, so I guess the "after" picture of it will have to do. It was a pretty bird.

About three weeks ago I was flying it at my friend's farm when a bad launch caused me to lose orientation on it. Needless to say, going to WOT to try to salvage things didn't help. It rocketed into the woods and was lost for a few weeks. We had found the lipo and canopy right away but couldn't find the plane. I knew it must have hit hard because the lipo has never broken free of the two velcro loops, despite previous hard hits. I'm glad it did, however, because that kept the lipo from going bad.

The strong winds a few weeks ago had brought the plane to the ground where it could be found by my friend Dave. When I picked it up the damage confirmed that it had a major impact. This bird is built like a tank, with a carbon tube from nose to tail crossing one that goes from wing tip to wing tip. It also has some carbon in the front end and a ply bottom where the battery chamber is.

You can see in the photo that the carbon tube broke through at one of the wing tips, a decent chunk of the front of the few was lost, and the fins were completely destroyed. One of the servos is also stripped but the motor, a Go Brushless triple stator with a custom wind is fine. The extra heat sink of the ESC at mid body was already missing before this wreck.

I'm not sure if I'll fix this body or not, since it has had major damage in the past and was already getting heavy. Still, I just might repair her for more life.

tam popo

Critt my friend.....sorry to see her like that[] Its obvious that a lot or work and thought went into that bird.....maybe she should be laid to rest in retirement in the great Paradise of Damaged Birds. The good bit is it was experience and that salvage operations worked. I know the next one will be even better pal - keep that Faith!!!![8D]

I'm working on my last Stryker body. Not a huge amount of strengthening but enough, concentrating more on easy flying and staying UP!!! Again, cost is important, but there seems to be a huge drop in price of reasonable powerful motors. Once, I wouldn't/couldn't look at 200W b/less, now that seems to be the norm, as well as really decent lipos in the 2200-3000 3S region. Forget 4S (for me)....I like simplicity, cost and Strykers of any shape or form. Tip for servos.....look for and ask what the gears are made of, they don't have to be metal anymore to be strong - look for ceramic gears or composite as opposed to plastic ones. Makes that I've tried and been happy with are HXT and DYS, all long-lived and still strong. And cheap!!!

Byeee.......

RR24

I dont have the Stryker yet but was thinking of builing one from scratch, my question is would a rimfire outrunner of 28-30-1450 fly this thing, and if so what prop would work, the reason i am asking is because i already have this motor

Thanks

RR24

Anyone?

tam popo

RR24 - I'm not familiar with the Rimfire range. If we had specs (Kv, Watts, 2S/3S, weight etc) maybe we could help a little. Here's hoping pal.....

RR24

RimFire Out-Runner Brushless Motor 28 mm Diameter / 30 mm Length
28-30-1450
Stock No. GPMG4570
Motor Diameter 28 mm
Motor Length 30 mm
Included Bolt-on Adapter Prop Saver
Motor Shaft Diameter 3 mm
Rear Shaft Length 12 mm
RPM / V (kV Rating) 1450
Bullet Connector 2 mm
Weight 1.9 oz. (54g)
Suggested Prop Size 7X4S - 10X3.5S
Input Voltage 7.4-11.1 Volts
Maximum Constant Current 23 Amps
Maximum Constant Watts 255
Maximum Surge Current 28 Amps
Maximum Surge Watts 31 Watts
No Load Current 1.7 Amps
Internal Resistance 64.4 mOhm
Silver Series Recommended ESC SS-25
ESC/Motor Adapter GPMM3122
Optional Adjustable Mount Small
Configuration 1 28-30-1450
# of Cells 2
Prop Size 10x4.7SF
RPM 6900
Current (A) 23.4
Configuration 2
# of Cells 3
Prop Size 7x4SF
RPM 13,550
Current (A) 17

tam popo

RR24 - If it was me I'd have bolted it on by now and ran it on 3S with the 7 x 4 (maybe a 6 x 4 might be better). I've used a motor with similar specs (E-Max 2812), mounted to a cut-down, low weight fuse. It was more of a Zagi wing than a Stryker (ex-crashed Stryker!!) but it would climb brilliantly (not vert though) and for only $8 it was money well spent. You don't need wads of cash to enjoy flying, right??
Just go for it pal...and keep us informed.

RR24

cool i think i will give it a try

critterhunter

Haven't been on much in a while due to other matters but figured I'd throw up a picture of my latest build using hot wired EPS foam. It's using a 2.5" EDF and a Turnigy 3900 k/v inrunner. Hasn't maidened yet. The EDF tube is two styrafoam cup holders that I fiberglassed for strength. It will be painted a darker green to match the Monocoat. On a 3 cell it's a little amp thirsty but nothing my ESC (40 amp) and lipos can't handle.

Stryker will get fixed sooner or later here.