zestril5

here's a picture of the problem area

zestril5

Ooopsies. obviously the wrong picture
Here's the right one It's of a fuse that I replaced.
No 1. shows where the plastic is cracked. You really can't see the crack in the picture. You can hardley see it on the real plane. But the whiter stress of the plastic points the way. No2. shows how the steering leg pushed back into the foam. and the basswood was an attempt at a fix that didn't work.

Now let's talk flying skills for a minute. There is no doubt that this was not done throught normal wear and tear. I landed pretty hard on the nose wheel. I know for a fact that at least one of the other flyers also landed very hard on it. They probably all did. We've got about 9 Trojans at the field. Not everyone has had the problem. Just trying to get a fix for those that have and I know there are more out there besides us 4 who have had this happen. The problem now is that no matter how light I land on the back wheels and bring the nose down it still pushes through the wall.

I did have one thought. That was to get some metal and U shape it from behind to in front of the plastic but not sure how to keep it there.

RCHubbub

Why didn't the bassword work? Unable to strongly secure enough? And when you say pushes through the wall, that is with the basswood in place? Does it push the basswood back or through it or does it stop at the basswood and gets stuck in the plastic mount?

zestril5

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Why didn't the bassword work? Unable to strongly secure enough? And when you say pushes through the wall, that is with the basswood in place? Does it push the basswood back or through it or does it stop at the basswood and gets stuck in the plastic mount?
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The basswood stays there but does push back a little. But as soon as the wheel rod goes through the plastic it's back too far and the prop hits unless you give lots of elevator while rog.

stavman11

Dang Mine is still sitting on the shelf, need ta add my RX and get it flying

have the new Airtronics 8000 controller, need ta read up a bit on it as well

NEED TA FLY IT SOON!!!!!

Sure did love the Super Cub so this should be an easy Transition, unlike my poor P51, it didnt fair so well....LOL

Stav

raz54

zestril5. This will give you an idea of how I made mine stronger. Grind off all the old steering then epoxy (& screw) some plywood filling the entire opening. Then add the DuoBro steering. I really don't want to pull it apart to take a picture but it's like this except plywood instead of plastic.

zestril5

raz54

Thanks!!!!!!!!! This is exactly the kind of fix I was looking for. Now I see what you were talking about in your post on the previous page. I'm a little thick when it comes to modeling. I love flying but I'm worthless when it comes to doing anything more than repairs with stock replacement parts unless someone shows me.

So along those lines another question about this fix. Did you use the steering rod and wheel that came with the Trojan or the one that came with the dubro kit? If you used the one from the dubro kit how do you attach a wheel since the rod has no bend?

And thanks again. Tower Hobby will quickly be getting some orders from this flying field.

raz54

I ended up using the old steering rod myself, using the DuBro rod would have made to front of the plane sit too low.

richardfrancisburton

My Feedback: (61)

Hi fellas: I hope that you can help me. Sorry for the long post but I wanted to give you as good an idea as possible regarding my situation with with the Trojan, which despite this I consider a rock solid plane in every other way.

In reading the previous posts it would seem that you guys are experts now on this issue of the controls going haywire in midair or on the ground.

Before I ask you a couple of questions, know that I've learned to fly gas trainers with an AMA approved instructor at an AMA field. Before that I was a super cub pilot like a lot of other fellas. I bot a PZ Trojan because I'd heard it was a great foam trainer for piloting warbirds, which I believe it is.

Here's my experience with the PZ Trojan so far:

Plane #1 Bought about a month ago had four very successful flights at my club field. no problems. But on the fifth flight, the plane went berzerk when it was some ways out away from the runway and crashed flat on its back with little to no damage. (this was the first flight of the day) Went back several days later and same issue occurred after in the air only a few minutes, resulting in a "catastrophic" nose down crash that broke the fuse off near the cowl. I'm repairing it now.[:@]

Plane #2 Bought second hand from a guy who had already beefed up the engine mount with thin plywood to replace the plastic and drilled vents in same to get some airflow over the speed controller. The seller told me that his friend flew the plane once, and in watching the seller instantly knew that it flew way too fast for his piloting skills (good for him !!!) I had previously read about the overheating problem with the ESC so before test flying it, I cut the ESC out of its little foam nest and just let it "float" in the fuse there in front of the battery.
Took this second plane for a maiden flight this morning, flying out in the Arizona desert along a dirt road. No issues with take off, ROG, turns, just a little light in the nose (which I had also heard and will correct with some self-adhering 1/4oz weights when I get it back to the bench). Plane landed just fine after a short 5-minute flight. But when it came to rest on the runway ... the controls chose that moment to go haywire. Every control surface was moving, ailerons, rudder, elevator, throttle, the whole shebang. I left the TX at the truck while I walked over to retrieve the plane. As I walked back closer to the truck, the control surfaces and throttle stopped moving and were quiet.
I gave the plane a rest for about ten minutes while I adjusted the elevator to compensate for the lightness in the nose, then said what the hell it's a spare plane, let's see if it happens again. Flew for 11-12 minutes and landed safely with no issues.

NOW ... I have obtained a new off the shelf Eflite 25A ESC to replace the original ESC in plane #1, which I assume to be fried. Also, I got two Hitec receivers and crystals for Channel 13 on 72megahertz, which match my Futaba TX that I use to fly my Glow Trainer. The receptacles on the Hitec receiver are universal. I had planned to install one of these receivers in only one of the Trojans to see if this gets rid of the issue.

I would like to be able to fly both of these planes without worrying about this issue, which if it happens in the air can cause a catastrophic crash, AS I'VE SEEN FIRSTHAND.

My questions are, based on what you read above ...

1. Are both ESCs in both of these airplanes fried? As I said, I have one new ESC but could easily get another.
2. Are both of the stock receivers in these airplanes fried?
3. Has anyone on the post flown these planes with a Futaba TX? Any issues there? I've read about you guys using the Spectrum DX6I with the 2.4Megahertz signal. Would that be better?

Any thoughts on all this would be GREATLY APPRECIATED.

stavman11

Got the Y connector for the alerons today, barring any windy conditions, hope ta have the Maiden Flight Tonight

Wish me luck guys

Stav

zestril5

I'm no expert but it sounds to me like you have a serious interference problem with something in the area. The answer. DX6, DX6i or DX7. My choice would be the DX6i. The 7 is a little pricey unless you're into Heli's. You can often pick up a DX6i from e-bay because of a hellicopter that is being sold with it as it's radio. Often times the guys buying these hellicopters already have a DX7 and therefore just want to sell the 6i.

As for the ESC.....why would you assume it's fried just because you crashed. test it out. It's probably ok.

For RAZ54
Thanks again for your help. Have already repaired a fuselage I was getting ready to chuck. I found out how to attach a wheel but will use the stock front steering rod since I have it and it's cheap if I have to replace it.

richardfrancisburton

My Feedback: (61)

ZESTRIL: Thanks for the answer. I'm assuming that the ESCs are the problem just by reading about the overheating problems experienced by others earlier in the thread. As to interference, it's happened both at the club field and out in the middle of nowhere in the Arizona desert, and now with two planes.
Thanks for the help.

sportrider_fz6

I bought a AR6100 RX yesturday and got it installed, now if that motor and ESC would hurry up and get here!!!
anyone who has ordered from hobbycity, how long did it take for them to ship your order? I ordered it last sunday and it still hasn't been shipped as of last night.[&o]

mesaba

Has anyone tried putting floats on the T-38?

Thanks,
Scott

tony51

sportrider, I placed my first order with hobbycity on March 27. On April 11 two of the items were shipped. I still have not received the rest of the items. There prices are good, but at this point I don't think much of the service they provide. I'd like to hear what experience other people have with them.

tyrick69

I've been thinking about putting floats on the T-28 as well and would be interested to see if anyone has had any success with it. i recently put floats on my Super Cub. It's a blast to fly but I'm sure it'd be even more fun if I had ailerons.

mesaba

Funny - the reason I asked is because I just GOT floats for my Super Cub and I'm thinking of my 2nd plane being the Trojan, but at the cabin the only place open enough to fly it is of course the lake. I figured somebody has to have at least tried it.

zestril5

My first order to hobby city was snagged because there was a problem between them and paypal. i waited 2 weeks. but when they did ship it they shipped on good Friday and the post office delivered it on Easter Sunday. Yes you hear me right .... the post office delivered it during easter dinner.

My last order to them took 5 days from order to door.

sportrider_fz6

I just checked there web site again and it still says "processing". it's been almost two months since I flew my T-28, I have other planes but once I got the parts ordered and picked up my new RX suddenly I've become very impatient!


on a side note, now that I've switched over to my DX6I, I was wondering if anyone has set theres up with flaperons? I know the T-28 has been modified with flaps. if so do the flaperons make the plane tip stall?

casey_lamm

Well if by flaperons you mean using the existing control surfaces with computer mixing to dial in flaps, that os only really recommended if the control surface is pretty much the entire wing. With this being a small section of the entire wing its not recommened. You can however simply add with a few extra servos and some time.

tubamike78

i have mine set up for flaperons and i have no problems with it. it slows down pretty nice. i was flying the other day in some wind, maby around 8mph, i had to land with the wind and the flaperons slowed it down pretty good. my radio is out in the show now and it is ranning and windy, do not gonna get it tonight, but if you need any assistance in setting it up, i'll get it tomorrow and let you know how to do it.

sparky4166

My Feedback: (1)

I just finished setting mine up. It was pretty simple. You just have to take out the Y and plug one Alerion into Aux1 and the other into the alerion. Then go to the menu on the dx6i and set for dual alerions. After that you can set the amount of flaps on the flap menu. I haven't flown it yet because I just finished it about 5 minutes ago and it's 10:00pm
I will post again tomorrow after I try it out.
-me-

tubamike78

put about 7-10% up elevator in it to or else nose will dip down...try it with some hight to get a feel for it also.

sportrider_fz6

let me know how it goes, I might be setting up mine the same way.

P.S. my motor and ESC were shipped!!!

11Hotel

I would really love to put flaps on my T-28. I picked up 2 HS55 servos as well as some extra wiring at the EF Expo here in Gelndale last weekend......just need to print out BigTone's page on the flap mod.

Got some paint on my new fuselage and wing, as well as some new pilots!

Also, I am working on adding my own oleo struts using pen cases, springs, dowel rods, and heat shrink: