11Hotel

If anyone would like to bid, or just grab the awesome pics they have:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Other...ayphotohosting

i love nachos

I know I am chiming in a little late here, but I bought the T-28 as my first plane and flew it on a buddy box. The first few flights I did on low rates and it is a very easy plane to fly. Very smooth and will decent in 10 - 15mph winds. I have recently had some trouble with the CG it seems like but I also turned mine into a bomber and had to do a rebuild, so I am sure that had something to do with it. The plane is a piece of cake to land, just make sure you have room. I go out and make a turn at about half throttle and cut all power once the plane is facing me and it just floats forever. Good Luck and enjoy your new plane, whatever it is!

kobijust

I had a chance to sit in one this weekend while I was in Tennessee and then was told they had a big warbird show this weekend comming up at the Tenessee museum of Aviation. Sucks to pick the wrong weekend. I think im going to try a Ducted fan version when my new fuse comes in.

guapoman2000

This past weekend, specifically Saturday, September 20th, 2008, I was invited by a RC Club member to their FUN FLY event at the Keystone Cloud Busters RC Club within the Keystone Airpark, an active executive airport with a runway disbanded and this is where they fly out of. This club is located a few mile North-East from Gainesville, Florida.

The weather conditions where not that good but, I drove all this distance and was determined to fly no matter what so, I took out all my Foam Park Flyer models (Park Zone F4U Corsair, T-28 Trojan, SLOW STOCK-X) and yes, my beloved Hobby Zone Super Cubs, one completely stock and the other with the brushless power motor. The Stock Powered Super Cub using separate Receiver and ESC (Not the stock Electronics) but stock power system was able to perform the best hammer heads, loops, 1/2 rolls, and best of all crabbing into the wind and passing all at the flight line back and forth in that blistery wind!

The Park Zone F4U Corsair did not disappoint, this model flew with the best sport style flying you can ever dream and those there at the FUN FLY was very impressed. I was successful in commanding the model to come in for a touch and go and because one wheel was being held by just a rubber spacer the wheel fell off in mid-flight as soon as I commanded the model to zoom back upwards and someone went out to retrieve it as I continue flying the Corsair. When I landed....I just maintained aileron control to keep that wing that was missing the wheel up as much as I could until it finally came down and the model slightly nosed over and I heard several hand claps in the back ground.

Oh, the Park Zone T-28 Trojan went up in that wind and light rain to perform the best Knife Edges I have yet to command this model. Those there at the FUN FLY took careful notice on how well these Park Zone Z-Foam models fly.

Here are some neat pictures of me flying in perhaps 10 MPH winds with slight rain!

tubamike78

knife edges are just a blast to do with the trojan. i fly at a club with others flying 30-40% yaks and extras, i get my trojan in a knife edge and fly a couple laps around the field without getting out of it and the other's are truly impressed. i've heard a couple remark "i've gotta get me one of those"

tb_tyler

so with all this talk about knife edges i had to go out tonight and try it again. I set my rudder to the max, and went after it. to my surprise i actually pulled it off tonight! woohoo! i wish i had a camera on me tonight because i was extra smooth with everything. it's so much more fun that way. ha!

guapoman2000

Hum....what do you mean set rudder to max?[8D]

I just move the Left Stick over to the Right while she is on her Left side.

tb_tyler

I just meant that I moved the plastic clevis on the end of the rod to the inner most hole instead of the outer for a little more movement with the rudder. whatever the technical term for all that is! LOL

wxup

Well, it had to happen sometime. Had my first crash with my T-28. Amazing how little damage there was. I have two questions.

1. The wing came off the fuselage as a result of the white plastic tube breaking off the wing. I remember seeing a fix for this in a past post, but I can't find it (60 pages to sift thru, and I can't seem to get the search feature to work). Can anyone help me with this?

2. What is the best glue to use for the foam? Someone told me about an epoxy that dries white, but couldn't remember the name.

Any help would be appreciated.

guapoman2000

Check out this person who had a similar situation.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1180

swiggyj

new paint - not the best - about 50 flights now - one wreck into a tree and i put the wing back on and flew 5 minutes later. what an absolute blast!!i have the larger battery (2200) and its great!

frenchstan

To WXUP about the wing attachment hard point:

The wing fix from GUAPOMAN 2000 is a good one. Here is another fix that may be a tad easier, and it gives you the option of tightening up the wing-to-fuselage joint if you ever need to.

Buy a 3.0mm X 50mm machine screw from your LHS, along with a small washer to fit. Mount the machine screw and washer from the outside of the wing at the usual location. Take the broken-off white plastic tube and simply place it over the long screw in its usual position. Reattach the wing and tighten the machine screw. The broken white plastic tube still serves its purpose as a "spacer" without the need to glue it into place.

I use the DuBro #2271 Socket Head Cap Screw, 3.0 mm X 50mm, four to a package. These cap screws use a 2.5mm hex driver or Allen wrench to tighten them.

I've noticed that, with age and my abuse, my T-28's start to develop space between the wing saddle and the wing. Since the white plastic tube sets the amount of "crush" distance between the two, all you have to do is cut off about 1/8 of an inch of the white plastic tube to eliminate the gap. (For those folks lucky or good enough to NOT have broken the white plastic tube, you may want to use this system to tighten the wing joint by just cutting off 1/8 of an inch of the tube with a Dremel to get the same effect)

One last diatribe: I figure that one of these days I'll crash hard enough to pull the machine screw and small washer right through the white plastic "hard point" on the wing. When this happens, I may be able to just use a BIGGER washer to put it all back together again. Stan

frenchstan

To WXUP about the wing attachment hard point:

Sorry for 2nd itteration.

frenchstan

T-28 weak spot near the tail?

If you look at your T-28's tail end on the left side, you will see an "unglued" space between the the parting line of the right and left fuselage halves. To me, this has always looked like a potential weak spot. This gap line looks kinda like a stair step when viewed from the left side.

Sure enough, during a "moderate" nose-in landing recently, the right half of the fuselage developed a crack mirroring this parting line. I glued the crack with CA.

Later, once the CA had a good chance to dry, I filled that gap between the the fuse halves with hot glue, kinda to tie the two together. I felt the tail would be stronger if both sides of the fuse were tied together completely.

Yes, I know "lighter is always better" on aircraft, and if you reinforce all the weak spots on an airframe you will end up trying to fly a brick with wings. However, this six inch long, kind of serrated gap line seems worth the fix. I've also used Gorilla Glue, inserted sparingly into the gap line, with good results. Grain of salt and all that.......... Stan

frenchstan

WXUP, and all, about bigger wheel on the T-28 nose:

One more slant on using bigger wheels.............. Due to the roughness and changing length of grass on our field, I've tried different combos of wheels, and used about three different brands. Most importantly, I've found I only need to change the NOSE wheel, NOT the rear "main" wheels to get a good combination of stability without adding too much weight.

On many of the after-market wheels, there is an extrusion - or "boss" - on both sides of the hub. I've found I can use my Dremel to grind down that boss so it is even with the spokes and the rest of the hub structure. This makes the profile of the wheel hub thinner. Then some of the bigger wheels will fit using the OEM landing gear wire and axle nut.

On one brand - I forget which one - there is a gray plastic "rim" around the hub that interferes with vertical portion of the nose gear wire. In that case, I grind down the unnecessary rim on the side against the vertical wire, AND I grind down the hub extrusion (or "boss") on the opposite side where the axle nut attaches.

I've used 3" Lite Flite wheels from Dave Brown Products and used the above technique to get a good fit. I believe I"ve also got some DuBro foam wheels on sone airframes.

On one wheel, I think it was the Lite Flite 3 1/4" foam wheel, the above techniques didn't make the hub thin enough for the OEM axle nut. Instead, I used a 1/4" wood boring drill bit (the funny one that has a brad-point and drills a flat-bottomed hole) and slow speed to drill a RECESS into the inside of the hub. Then I attached the OEM axle nut and threaded it on until it was almost completely recessed INTO the side of the hub. That was easy to do and none of my wheels have ever come off, including the left-hand wheel ........................... Stan

guapoman2000

Just got off the telephone with Nathan from Warranty Support at RED ROCKET HOBBIES and he is shipping four (quantity 4) long lead mini servos for my Park Zone T-28 Trojan, Part Number (PKZ1081 Long Lead).

All I needed was one as my #2 Trojan exhibited a failed servo on Left Wing side.

RED ROCKET HOBBIES are A-1 as I talked he was typing my address and had the shipping label done before we ended our conversation.

Carlos

guapoman2000

As reported last week, Horizon Hobbies is A-1 outfit to deal with....just late last week I called complaining about a dead receiver and dead wing aileron servo on my #2 Park Zone T-28 Trojan and look what I got in the mail today!!!!

Two Digital servos, three analog Long Lead servos and a 72Mhz Stock receiver on back order!!!!!!

jerseyflyer

My Feedback: (2)

hey i'm having issues with my t28 always nosing up... i thought it was something with the trim and i'm going to change the location on the servo arm to the furthest hole tonite but anything over about 35 - 40% throttle will cause it to start nosing up... of course that just causes it to stall and makes it a little less fun to fly... can anyone offer any suggestions... i've crashed it a couple times now dealing with this issue...

please help...

frenchstan

Jersy:

No revelations here, just some 'ol reliable things to check:

When I crash, er, land, my T-28, the nose can "crush" to one side or the other, or up or down, and it's not always noticeable. Check from all sides to see if the Thrust Line is OK.
Center Of Gravity: Does the plane balance 2 1/2" from the wing leading edge, as measured 1" out from the fuselage? Does the battery still mount in the original location?
Is the wing still mounted tight to the body - no new angle of attack due to damage? Are there any body cracks in the fuselage at the front of the canopy opening, or on sides?
The entire tail cone can crack, and yet still stay attached and LOOK to be OK. When you fly, depending on the location of the crack(s), the plane can wander. Check that the tail cone is secure by gently moving it up/down/left/right. If it is cracked, reglue the crack and then reinforce the "parting line", per the post on page 62 or 61.
Most importantly, is the horizontal stabilizer secure and level, and is the elevator also level with the stabilizer? Is the elevator attached correctly?
Have you made any major repairs or equipment changes?

Let us know what you discover! - Stan

Kizad5317

I have noticed if you land on the front wheel to hard the part that turns begins to break any ideas how to strengthen this part up? i have had not had to much luck yet with my t-28. we already had to send one back to parkzone because of a bad servo or reciever but hopefully the new plane being sent to us will fly like a dream

cjg

Before the front gear breaks completely reinforce it with a small block of woood: http://parkzonet28club.6.forumer.com/viewtopic.php?t=85

I have had several less than stellar landings since the repair and no problems. Remember to reset you center of gravity per the instructions above, as this repair will make the T-28 nose heavy.

frenchstan

There are a two other options, similar to those above, for reinforcing the nose gear mount. I'll go over the first one right now, without pictures, and try to take some digital pictures tonight to match the procedure.

The first option is the easiest to do. It is for undamaged airframes or airframes where the nose gear broke cleanly through the bulkhead without doing a lot of other damage. In fact, I would STRONGLY SUGGEST that ALL owners of the T-28 consider doing this BEFORE flying or crashing. This first one involves cutting a rectangular piece of 1/16" Lite-Ply, 7/8" long by 5/8" tall, and just inserting it, or, lightly glueing it in the 1/16" gap behind the front bulkhead. Usually you don't even have to cut or carve the foam. I have five T-28 bodies, and they all have a slight gap between the red foam and the cream-colored plastic bulkhead. (What I'm talking about here is the red-painted foam to the rear of the bulkhead. If you have the stock T-28, you should have a red frequency decal there) That gap allows you to just stick in the plywood. Note that this fix doesn't add any significant weight to the nose, so your Center Of Gravity doesn't change appreciably.

First, remove the wing, cowl, motor mount, motor and nose gear so it is easy to work on the fuselage without breaking anything. (I usually pull off the horizontal tail, too) With the fuselage right-side up, and looking from the front, CAREFULLY inspect the face of the plastic bulkhead, specifically in the recessed "square" area surrounding the nose gear mount. There are two trunnions molded right into the bulkhead. The trunnions serve as mounts and bearings for the wire landing gear. With a good light, you should also be able to see two small recessed DIMPLES on either side of the bottom trunnion. The dimples are from the molding of the bulkhead, and show the front side of two out-of-sight "spikes" that stick out of the bulkhead and were driven into the red foam during assembly. You need to know where the two spikes are, because you are going to insert the rectangular piece of plywood between the two spikes, and it's good to know EXACTLY where they are positioned. (I mark them with a black dot from a Sharpie) If you can't see the dimples, take a small flat screwdriver and carefully probe on the back side of the bulkhead to locate them.

Now simply cut your 7/8" X 5/8" piece of plywood and carefully insert it into the gap between the red foam and the bulkhead. (The plywood is mounted cross-wise from the axis of the fuselage) This step is just a test fit. It sometimes makes it easier if you chamfer the edge of the ply before you insert it. (Note, if my directions are lousy, as usual, look at the bulkhead from all angles. You will notice that it is a uniform 3/8" on the edge, except on the bottom where the bulkhead has a molded-in semi-circle for the landing gear, and a bump-out that points towards the rear of the plane. This rectangular bump-out is where you insert the plywood)

If you cut the plywood the right size, it should fit between the two hidden spikes, and you should be able to insert it so it is about even with the bottom of the fuse. If you want it to look really good, you can sand it to fit the circumference of the nose of the plane before the final insert. Make SURE the plywood doesn't interfere with the Nose Gear Steering Arm (part # 4408) or the attached pushrod. Once the glue dries, triple-check that there is no interference with the Steering Arm. What this procedure does is reinforce the bulkhead and trunnion so they work as before, even if they are cracked all the way through. If you want to, you can drill pilot holes and insert two very small pan head screws through the bulkhead and into the plywood. I've tried that on one T-28, but it didn't seem to be necessary.

Let us know how it goes. .............................. Stan





Turn it upside down on a thick book or piece of 2 X 8 lumber to steady it.

mrbigg

My Feedback: (21)

Looks good. What kind of paint did you use?

downunderdog

I broke the firewall around the NLG mounting area on a hard "nose wheel first" landing on my first flight. I repaired it by trimming and bending up an old credit card (actually an old frequent flyer card) into a couple of L-doublers that I glued into the corners of the cutout where the gear wire installs. I also epoxied in a little "cross stiffener" to strengthen the area, and it held the 2 L-doublers in place while the epoxy was drying. If I had known, I would have glued in part of the trimmed up credit card where you're suggesting a plywood doubler - aft of the firewall - before the first flight and probably wouldn't have broken it in the first place.

The little credit card doublers bonded to the plastic seem to really strengthen the area up.

swiggyj

thank you. testors model paint olive drab top/flat white bottom. it was pretty painless. a little blue painters tape, and away you go. i also sprayed tinting on the inside window. i was wondering, how do lipo's do in the cold weather?? also, how bout the plane? will it fly well in colder weather. it's still warm right now, but that will change here quickly[X(].