BIGGSNAKE78

Hey all I am a newbie to the f27 and i love it. I will join the darkside very soon. My question is I have a wrecked aerobird extreme with the 540 motor and i was wondering if the motor could be used on the strykers stock electronics, or should I just go ahead and try to go brushless? any help would be greatly appreciated. The Stryker rocks.

Gryphon

BIGGSNAKE78,

I know that with enough cooling for the stock ESC the stock Stryker motor can be ran on 3 cell lipoly and APC 6X4 prop. That will draw about 15-16Amps from a 2100-3S 15C battery.
Most Amps I've seen drawn from the stock ESC is 17Amps with a Graupner 6304L motor sold by hobby lobby (need modification of motor mount).
EDITED: I've bench tested the stock motor on 4S and about same amps as on 3S and it(meaning the ESC) survived, motor was toasting really bad with barely any air flow from the fan in my room pointing at it.

What kills the stock ESC is Amps at or over 17A. To handle near that number it'll need good cooling by opening up the side air vents and having it blow directly on the ESC.
The stock F-27C front scoop's is also a great addition. Make sure to open up some of the rear hatch's last slots by widening and lengthening them so more air can exit, there by more air being able to come in.
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*** To draw this much amps and no more, you'll need a wattmeter, and set it on AMP.
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Prop it so that on full throttle you will be just below that figure.

Keep an eye on your battery's temp. If using stock 7 or the replacement 8 cell batteries, I would run two of them in parallel (same voltage but twice capacity and amp rating)so that they don't over heat and you can get longer flight duration and even more speed because the voltage drop due to load will be lower with (2) batteries compared to one. The two need to be identical and in same great shape and charged one after another so they will have same voltage.
It’s safer to keep the amps down to 15A and provide great cooling air in and out of the battery and ESC area.
The weight of two batteries will help offset the extra weight of the larger motor on rear of plane.
Better to be nose heavy than tail heavy.

Gryphon

warhawk70

Hello all and thanks ahead of time for any information that is provided.

I have been flying my Stryker B for about 8 months now and finally decided to upgrade to LiPo power, yeah me. I have flown a few times with the LiPo and the LiPo prop with surprisingly great success, avoiding several close calls.
My question has to do with the stock brushed motor on the Stryker. When flying WOT the motor doesn't sound smooth at all; it actually seems to spit and sputter, for lack of a better term.
Also at WOT the Stryker seems to become erratic at times (thank goodness I have altitude).

I would like to know if this is a motor problem or an electronics problem and how I can remedy this situation.

Thanks again for any help provided.

tam popo

Hiya. Did you pull jumper 3 from the esc or not? Wot size Lipo are you using and is there any added cooling as Gryphon suggests (very important!!). I'm not a "techie" but sounds like esc is still set up for 8-cell Nimh and doesn't like Lipos too much at moment. other reason is motor is giving up the ghost due to Lipo use. It really all depends on wot Lipo size - I would suggest no more than 2200 Mah 3S (as Parkzone suggest) or even less. Run it till it breaks and go b/less!!
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just had a thought - check motor shaft for straightness (running true). If its out it would cause some problems under load!![X(][X(][X(][>:]

warhawk70

Tam popo,

Thanks for the reply.

I have pulled the jumper and am using a TP 3S 2100mAh. I haven't added the cooling vents as of yet and will do so immediately.

I went back to the field and set the Stryker back up to fly with Nimh (re-installed the jumper and the Nimh prop) both 8 cell (stock Stryker) and 9 cell (stock PZ P-51D) and the problem continued. Motor still doesn't sound smooth and seems erratic at times.

I will check the shaft next but it seems to be straight; or at least as straight as I can tell.

Thanks again and I will continue to troubleshoot and keep her at altitude to compensate for any erratic behavior (the plane and not me, no cure for my behavior).

Hawk

Gryphon

BIGGSNAKE78,

I was re-reading my post above and that one sentence was implying that the stock motor on 4S, I was meaning the ESC. So I edited that post above.

The motor did not fair good at all. First time bench testing 4S on the motor, it was not water broken in and no fan was used. So motor got damaged bad.
Next time, I water broke in another motor(new) and used a room fan and the amps were not jumping all over the place "AS BADLY".
The light show in the rear (brushes) was not "AS SEVERE" either, but still not good.

I want to kiss another $11 stock motor goodbye and try it in flight with APC E 4.1X4.1 during a race if and when that ever comes up.

The data (AMP, RPM, Thrust) was recorded some where. I have to find it.

Gryphon

tam popo

Hi again. Just remembered - I mainly use a 10.8 NiMh battery (looks like a PZone green casing) with a lot of success on bog standard F27b. Its only slightly heavier than the 8 and 9 cell but puts out a lot of useable power, BUT it must be fully charged on a slow trickle mains charger or dedicated Nimh/Nicad charger (not the in-car thing supplied). If you do it night before then give a kick up backside in car on way to site its brilliant, much overlooked. If you buy a house with flying site in back yard (about 4 acres) its even better!!1[8D]

drunkenbushman

What wire are you suposed to pull, can somebody provide me with a picture please?

Gryphon

drunkenbushman,

I believe you are looking for this:
http://parkzone.com/ProdInfo/Files/P...ualcropped.pdf

Read Step 8 which is on bottom of page 6 and top of page 7(drawing).

Gryphon

drunkenbushman

Cheers Gryphon,

Ill go have a geez at my stryker today and see what i can do.

BIGGSNAKE78

Thank you for the info Gryphon, I am probably going to go with the brushless setup, another question though, What would you recommend, a ducted fan unit or a regular brushless setup? what are the pros and cons also?

tam popo

Hiya. Ducted fans are OK but not for the Stryker. Why? Cos you're limited to prop size and motor size and type and also power supply. Wot you gonna do when you up the lipo, change the prop. How? You would have to swap engine sizes and that is unrealistic. I've used edf in my ME262 without success - changed to rear props in nacelles and it was great (not scale, but who cares!!!). It has been done with some success but please learn from all the Obi Wan Kenobis here and stick with wot we all know - trust me, I'm a Doctor (not!!).
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Where's the fun without scars and missing fingers - you don't get that with EDF!![8D]
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Going out later with my original F27b - gawd wot a dog!! But it still works. Foam mising, epoxy heaven, tape, tape tape!! Just love it!![>:][>:][]

Gryphon

BIGGSNAKE78,


In the link below, look below my Stryker at the one with EDF. The 3S-4200 15C battery was not rated high enough. I would consider a 3S-3850 25C if not a 3S-4500 25C setup. Speed will be higher and the power will go past 900W with these better batteries. The motor was ice cold. So that is the best motor for high power EDF on 3S. If you want higher number of cells with reduced amps, use a different KV motor.
The 2650KV MEGA 16/25/2 on 5S should get you similar numbers with the EDF and it will also be useful without EDF. Its performance with a prop is AWESOME. 115+MPH on 3S, 125-130MPH on 4S, and at the moment god know what it can do on 5S. I will share that knowledge before long.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_50...17/key_/tm.htm

850W static and radared 99MPH in a small head wind I called it 100MPH. The battery was about half full.

Gryphon

BIGGSNAKE78

thanks for the info gryphon I will be setting up my stryker very close to that one.