crazychris46dividedby2

so im in the market for an electric jet, id preffer ducted but pusher prop would be fine to. but i want something 4 channel thats upgradeable, brushless would be nice but brushed would work to. i also would like something that could easily be used in a different custom made jet if i felt the need arise to do so, as i love to mod things. any suggestions on what i should get. something stable that isnt incredibly difficult to fly would be ideal. my price range is around 300 dollars, thanks for any input guys, chris

r/cmark42

My Feedback: (8)

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=PKZ4200
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXNXV5&P=ML

Sorry, the options I have pasted above are 3 channel. I have both and have a ball with them. Stabel, fast and have yet to get bored over 2 seasons

good luck.. have fun!!

crazychris46dividedby2

thanks for the rapid reply mark, its funny that you should suggest the stryker, ive had my eye on them for awhile now, but with th reading ive done ive heard that they break easily, and also a guy at my local flying field has one and from watching it fly its speed seems a little intimidating. can you tell me from personal experience if the control of the jet is more than enough to compensate for the speed it has? and is it very touchy or does it have some "lag" in the control response. as of now ive only flow a modded firebird xl, and a slo-v. but i feel ready to move myself up into the 4 channel range, or maybe just a 3 channel with some more "umpf" than the slo v. thanks for the info, chris

jdetray

Chris -

The jump from a Firebird XL or Slo-V to a fast pusher jet seems like an awfully large step to me. The difference in speed is great.

Instead, how about an intermediate trainer-type 4-channel plane as your next step?

- Jeff

hugger-4641

My Feedback: (6)

From the experience you've listed, you may want to consider an intermediate plane like the T-28 or F4U to build some skill and reflexes before jumping up to an EDF or a Stryker. The Stryker handles pretty good at slower speeds if you are already skilled with ailerons. It does break easily, but is also inexpensive to repair. Still I think I would reccomend a T-28 as its a little tougher and a little more forgiving, but fast enough to help you build skill before you step up to EDF. Just my 2 cents!!

r/cmark42

My Feedback: (8)

Oh my.. I did not realize that you were looking for a 2nd plane. The Stryker is not the plane just yet.

I've heard great things about the Mini Ultra Stick http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=EFL2350
You can start nice and slow (I've had the ultra stick 25e.. great experience!) For $279 you are getting a lot of bang for your buck

downunderdog

First suggestion: Be a bit more descriptive in your thread titles. More people will know what you're looking for and you may get more suggestions - some people who might have good suggestions might never open this thread, and you'll miss out on their input.

Second suggestion: I've heard that the Multiplex funjet is fast when you want it to be, and is very stable and floats well when you want to do that. I've never had one, though... I went from a supercub to a T-28 trojan. I'll consider a faster plane after my thumbs get a little smarter.

crazychris46dividedby2

ok ive narrowed my choices down to 2 planes but think ive decided on just one. which would be the supercub. what are your feelings on the supercub? my other choics was going to be the t-28 trojan, but im unsure if im ready for the aileron control yet. on the t-28 is there an option to disable the ailerons until i get used to the plane? i deffinatly like the look and specs of the t-28 more than the super cub, but from what ive seen of videos of the supercub online, it takes some nasty impacts. is this true with the trojan as well? sorry for so many questions im just catious of taking the next step in the hobby and would like it to be an enjoyable one, thanks, chris

downunderdog

If you're fairly competent on the firebird or slo-v, you are probably ready for the trojan... I've never flown either (the firebird or slo-v), but from what I've gathered reading in forums they are similar enough to a cub that maybe a cub wouldn't teach you much(?) that they can't. However, the Cub is pretty mod-able, so it wouldn't be a "total loss"... The down side of the Cub is the electronics are pretty much a dead end. It has 5 wire servos and the TX/RX is 27 Mhz, so none of the gear is compatible with much of anything else. A good option (that I did after losing my first Super Cub) was to just buy a bare fuselage and wing (plus I had previously purchased a spare set of tail pieces and cowl, and I guess a set of gear would also be a good idea) and then get a TX/RX and servos that you can use in the future, and build it up. You'd also have to get an ESC and motor, and a charger and some LiPos, so the cost starts building up (to more than a RTF cub), but the good part is that you then have a TX/RX and servos and charger and batteries that can be used in the future on other planes - that's how I justified it to my wife, anyway... lol)

The Trojan seems to be just about as repairable as the Cub - I've done a fair bit of repairing of each!

My recommendation would be to get a "plug and play" Trojan and a DX6i transmitter/rx and a charger and LiPo (the PnP comes with servos, ESC, and motor already installed, plus 2 props). If not that, then the "build it yourself Super Cub" option that I described above with a DX6i or other "I plan to keep this TX for the next 10 years" type of transmitter. That way, the move to the next step (PnP Trojan? PnP Stryker?) won't require a TX purchase. Sounds like you've been bitten hard enough to make investing in the transmitter a safe bet at this point!

Edit to add: After reading the above, I feel like I'm dissing the cub, which I definitely didn't intend to do - it's a great flying plane and a lot of fun. I doubt that you'll regret a cub purchase, but it might not challenge you as much as you would like. The Trojan would definitely be more of a challenge a bottle of Gorilla glue and some other repair materials would be a good idea at initial purchase!

crazychris46dividedby2

so im guessing that you have flown both the supercub and the trojan? if so, my main issue is that im not ready to fly a 4 channel, (ailerons) but if it is possible to unplug the servos for the ailerons and use the trojan as a 3 channel plane the ordering one sounds like a better idea for me to go with. then after mastering the trojan i could simply plug the aileron servos back in and start practicing the trojan if true 4 channel. the slo v i have is still stock, no mods or upgrades other than the night flight for x-port. the firebird hiwever was damaged when i got it and it now has the rear wing from a commander on it and instead of the fishing line and rubberbands for the tail controls i used some metal pushrods. only issue is that it has more of a roll tendancy than the stock config, because stock either one flap or the other come up for steering, and now one goes up and the other goes down, but it has super tight turns. i do prefer the trojan over the supercub because of its electronics, and look, but not sure if i should jump to a 4 channel from a 2 and simple 3 channel, or get a super cub? im a bit lost. might just get the trojan and dissconnect the ailerons for awhile till i get a feel for it, then try using the ailerons. oh, another stupid question, on the trojan, which sticks do what as far as control? im guessing left stick controls throttle up and down? and ailerons are prolly the same left stick? if so on the trojan could i set it up so that ailerons are controlled with the right stick instead of left? i ask because im more apt to using the left stick for steering through rudder that the right. thanks for the help guys, i know im being a pain in the rump, chris

jdetray

Hi Chris -

In the United States, it is customary for the controls to be arranged in the so-called Mode 2 configuration. In Mode 2 (or II), the main directional controls are always on the right stick.

So for a 4-channel plane, the controls are arranged as:
Right Stick
channel 1 = ailerons
channel 2 = elevator

Left Stick
channel 3 = throttle
channel 4 = rudder

For a 3-channel plane without ailerons:
Right Stick
channel 1 = rudder
channel 2 = elevator

Left Stick
channel 3 = throttle
channel 4 = (none)

There are also 3-channel planes that have ailerons but no rudder:
Right Stick
channel 1 = ailerons
channel 2 = elevator

Left Stick
channel 3 = throttle
channel 4 = (none)

As you can see, the main turning control is always on channel 1 on the right stick. So if you acquire a 4-channel plane but temporarily disable the ailerons, the rudder will be your main turning control. So you'll want to put the rudder on channel 1 on the right stick.

If you later enable the ailerons, the ailerons become the main turning control. You would then move the rudder to channel 4 on the left stick and put the ailerons on channel 1 on the right stick. This keeps the main turning control on channel 1 on the right stick.

Please note that some planes designed with ailerons won't turn very well with the rudder only. Don't assume that you can disable the ailerons on any 4-channel plane and fly it as a 3-channel plane.

- Jeff

hugger-4641

My Feedback: (6)

I have flown the Super Cub, Firebird, Slo-v, and T-28, in fact, I still own all of them and fly them regularly. I love the Super Cub for flying in tight places. But as mentioned above, the electronics are cheap and not good for anything else. I also love flying my T-28 and it was my first aileron plane. I think you should be ready for it if you are good with the slo-v and the firebird. What I did might help you also. When I transitioned from 3 channel to the T-28, I switched the plugs on the reciever so the ailerons were on the left stick, and the rudder was on the right. This let me take off and fly just like a 3 channel plane, then after I got some altitude, I experimented with the ailerons until I got the hang of them. After I got comfortable with this, I switched the ailerons back to the right stick and had to re-learn a little, but it worked well for me. Hope this helps, good luck.

crazychris46dividedby2

jdetray and hugger, thank you both for your input, hugger im glad you posted your info about the t-28. i was hoping i could do what yu suggested, as id like to get a feel for the plane without the ailerons first then once i have the 3 channel controls of it down start using the 4th, the ailerons. thanks alot for the input, im going to head to the hobbie shop tommorrow and place my order. chris

downunderdog

If you have been flying something with the right stick controlling pitch and yaw, with the left controlling throttle, it shouldn't be much of a switch to a plane that has the right stick controlling controlling pitch and roll and the left controlling throttle and yaw. The plane will still do what you're thumbs think that they're telling it to do, but it will do it with ailerons instead of rudder. I'd just leave everything plugged in and connected correctly and give it a go (but make sure you're on a big field, as the Trojan takes a lot more space than the supercub or other slower planes for landing until you get used to it). It will save you having to relearn anything after you get comfortable after your first couple of flights.

I pretty much fly my trojan using the left stick for throttle only (ignoring rudder input mostly, except for maneuvering on the ground) and the right for telling it where to go - just like on a plane that has rudder and elevator on the right stick, only the Trojan obeys the commands using aileron and elevator. Keep the control inputs small at first and you shouldn't have any major problems.

crazychris46dividedby2

ok thanks. 1 more question, not using rudder for steering and using elevator and ailerons would mean that give it s slight tip in the wings and then some elevator for the turn. is that correct? wish i could afford a flight sim too. is there any freeware versions of the flight sims? thanks guys, cant wait to make the transition, chris

jdetray

Chris -

With many planes, it will begin to turn as soon as you bank (tilt the wings), without any elevator. Applying elevator will result in a tighter turn and will also help to maintain the plane's altitude.

- Jeff

hugger-4641

My Feedback: (6)

You can follow downunderdog's advice and do fine, just be carefull to use the low rate starting out and keep the throws for all the control surfaces set to the lowest rate. (yokes moved to the inside hole on the servo arms and outside holes on the control arms) As downunderdog said, the plane will still turn normally if you just use the right stick with ailerons and elevator, but the response will be faster than what you are used to with the Slo-v and Firebird, even on the low rate. The other problem you might have is on the ground, with 3 channel planes you steer on the ground using your right stick. If you leave the rudder on the left stick, you will be steering in the air with the right stick, but steering on the ground with the left. May not be as much a problem for you since the slo-v and firebird don't steer well on the ground anyway, but it might pay you to taxi around a while with the t-28 to get used to it because it is a tricicle gear and can turn over if turned too sharply.

crazychris46dividedby2

thanks for the pointers guys, i was wondering if the lipo battery from the blade cp+ would work with the trojan? they are both 11.1volt 1800mah, just not sure if they both use the same plug. also ive never used brushless before either so is there a standard rate of time needed for cool downs between flight?

jdetray

Hi Chris -

Most of us standardize on one type of battery connector so that we can easily share batteries between planes. You can remove the existing connectors and solder on new ones to accomplish this. The most widely used battery connector is the Deans Ultra, which looks like this:


Regarding temperature, if either your motor or your battery get so hot that it is uncomfortable to touch them (around 140 degrees F), you are probably drawing too much current. A brushless motor can run all day without cooling down as long as it doesn't get too hot. Lipo batteries should be allowed to cool down before charging if you want to maximize their longevity.

- Jeff

crazychris46dividedby2

awsome, i have a feeling im going to love the trojan, i ordered it today too. only thing that is disapointing is the waiting time due to christmas. but my LHS said it should be here by monday at the latest. i was so excited when i ordered it i almost spent the extra 100 bucks to have it overnighted but decided it would be better spent on some possible upgrades or parts if needed. could anyone recommend a good camera for use with the trojan? ive always wanted to do some aerial video of my flying but havent had a good plane for doing it til now. thanks for all the input guys, chris

richg99

Glad that you are waiting for your plane. That'll give you more time to read more and be ready.

One suggestion is to be ready to turn the power down a little bit....after take-off. The t-28 takes some speed to get up on our rough field, but once she gets up in the air enough, I turn the speed control down somewhat. She handles very well that way.

Also, remember the suggestion about always being "three mistakes high". It saved me a lot of times. rich

lou1947

You will enjoy your T28. We are using it to teach new pilots. When you put it together make sure you adjust the elevator about 3 degrees of down,if not the plane will want to climb real bad.(We have noticed it with every Trojan that we have flown.)The plane will want to float for ever so if you get in a little bind cut the throtle down so it will give you more time to react.You will be amazed on how well this foamy goes on windy days. I would suggest not using the landing gear and just have a fellow flyer throw it for you.Once you have learned to fly it and landing it on grass without the landing gear then i would install the gear. Enjoy and let us know how you are doing.

downunderdog

Taking the gear off until you get better at landing is probably a good idea... I broke my nose gear with a hard landing on my maiden flight... Also, reinforcing the firewall around where the nose gear connects, and glueing the main gear "keepers" into the wing, is also probably a good idea once you put the gear back on.

richg99

Yep, I snapped the entire nose off due to some rough terrain. She glued back up easily, though. I've since changed her to a tail dragger for our rough fields. Rich

crazychris46dividedby2

with the trojan would it be safe to say that most of its flying is done using slight movements on the controls or larger movements? i ask because for me i prefer to be able to move the controls slightly more just to have a better feel of giving it input. im deffinattly going to start out using the low rate setting, but i was wondering if setting the yokes to the lowest rate of movent on the servos and fins, and using the low rate setting, will that give it a small enough amount of travel in the control surfaces so that i could give somewhat bigger inputs? it took me forever to tune the slo-v like this but eventual got it set to a level that is very comfortable and almost effort less to fly. chris