MozFlyer

Hi Everyone,
My first post in this forum
I am fascinated with the amount of knowledge and mods that everyone is doing to their Strykers
I am an old (as in age) newbie with my experience being a lost Easy Star due to radio failure and now a fully modded Easy Star
Found a Stryker F27B RTF selling for 85€, found it cheap and decided to try my luck
Got a bit intimidated by how far the plane can be pushed so to start with I will put it in the air as is (stock) and while reading thru this whole thread maybe one day i will graduate to a "hot" Stryker!
I cannot contribute anything to the forum but could not resist the urge to let everyone know how all your posts made me already start a good relationship with my Stryker
Unfortunately it will be a while before it can be airborne because I work away from my country and will have to wait for the next vacation break
BTW, I fly my EZ* in the african bush where i work

Carlos

Gryphon

MozFlyer,

Welcome to the thread.

Here is how you can start your first modifications:

If you are going to power it with 3S lipoly instead of 7cell NiMh, and also 8cell NiMh(upgraded battery, but stock charger is not good for 8cell).....Then you will need to remove the correct jumper in order for the stock receiver/ESC combo unit to do the cutoff at right voltage.
Let me know if you need help with that.
***If your F-27B is a very early model then it will not have the 3S Lipoly cutoff option.

To make the Stryker have more power and better climbing, even though I am increasing the voltage, instead of using same prop or going down in size to control teh AMPs, I buy a 2.3mm prop adapter and run a higher load 6X4 prop such as APC Sport 6X4.
This will cause the motor to run hot, but it is a weak and cheap $11 motor after all. It gets hot with nonstop wide open throttle use, you can use some throttle management and it will run cooler.
You can add a snap on heat sink to help it run cooler. In my opinion the extra performance is well worth it. Run the two different size stock props first if you wish....(if it came with 2 different size props that is a sign that it can run 3S lipoly).

Do the basic tape job in key areas so it can survive a crash. Ask the folks on this thread how that is done.

The stock pushrod and clevises are absolute junk. The nipple in the stock clevises will break and you will crash. They will be a cheap upgrade. Use (2) 2-56 sized rods...maybe even a 2mm is good enough at your power level.

You cannot upgrade your servos because they are 5 wire proprietary type instead of the usual 3 wire servos. However you can buy replacement gears for them cheap. Buy those in advance. I found having a pair of extra servos ready to go were much easier for field repair.

Even if you plane is in 2-3 pieces after a crash, often you can tape it up, finish flying the rest of the day and then do the repairs after you get home...but inspect everything closely before putting it back up in air...check for stripped servos.


How about close up picture of your hatches and ESC/receiver unit?


The stock charger, (which is a car charger) is junk and will give you false peaks. If you are to stay in electrics, you will end up running Lipoly and it is better to have the best charger than you can buy. good for all battery types , and be able to charge 4S lipoly or better and ideally have a digital read out, and as icing on the cake if it can do storage charge option for when you are not going to be using your lipoly regularly so they don’t take damage.

If staying with stock radio for now, you will be staying with your ESC and servos too. The stock ESC can handle more current than that motor (I am running same motor)....when and if you are going to only upgrade the motor, consider Graupner 6304L motor and a APC 5.25X4.75 prop if running 3S Lipoly. I can show you how to quickly modify the stock mount to accept that motor. It has bigger diameter and will not just fit the mount. Easy, quick and free solution when ready.


I'm running 2.4 GHz radio, hitec 81 servos, Jeti ESC, 3S lipoly and APC 6X4 Sport, 1 long C.F. rod, and 2 short ones, Tape job, 2-56 rods and clevises....and a heat sink on stock motor.
And FMA Co-pilot part # CPD4 for $69.
With that setup, I have had (3) people with zero R/C and flight experience fly it and land it.


Have fun,

Gryphon

MozFlyer

Hi Gryphon,

First of all I wish to thank you for the warm welcome and sincere manner in which you have transmited your knowledge and advice to me, as a Stryker newcomer
I also wish to mention that the maturity and objectivity towards this hobby that I have found in this forum compared to others that I have navigated and subscribed, is beyond all expections I had
I am glad I found you guys!

Regarding my "newbie" comment, I dont have many hours of flying experience but I have found my way quite well with my non stock Easy Star (B/L, Ailerons, CF reinforcing, etc)
Unfortunately, or maybe fortunately I learnt it the tough way
I crashed my first Easy#1 inumerous times and I think that's the reason why the radio failed on me because I recall that from so many crashes the insulation of the 2,4Ghz RX antennas were already stripped and the filaments were showing
Anyway, I lost it and I then became much more conscious on my 2nd one (never managed to find it in the dense African bush)
I have been flying EZ* #2, and sometimes quite agressively, a few hours every weekend for the past 2,5 months and I haven´t had a serious crash yet.....touch wood!
To be on the safe side I fitted it with (your mentioned) CPD4 but I only used it a few times while i was still traumatized by EZ #1 crashes

Regarding the batteries on the Stryker i will go straight to lipo´s
I have 4 lipos, 2,100mha 3S 30C and a good charger (Bantam BC6)

The motor I will start with the stock and upgrade one day
I read in an article that it is advisable to water run it in before use, which I intend to do

Regarding the radio I am thinking of just buying another AR600 and use my DX5i (it came with my Apprentice which I only had a chance to fly once because it is in Portugal)

The servos I will change also and seems like the HS81 are a good choice

Now, about the pushrods and clevises, I wasn´t aware of it
Thanks for the tip
On the Easy I used CF tubing as linkages and the clevises' rods CAed to them and they worked very well


The CPD4 will definately be fitted
It's like an insurance policy
Where would you fit it?
Haven't seen any pictures yet

What concerns me is that I dont see much space in the hatch(es?) to route all the wires + CPD4 unit (I have seen the plane yet)

I cannot wait to put it in the air but as i mentioned it will have to wait a while
In the meantime I have 8 Parts of friendly forums to read and learn

Cheers,
Carlos

Gryphon

MozFlyer,

See my pics on following link (Part 6, page 9):


http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_60..._9/key_/tm.htm


Hack away any foam in your way.




FYI:
On the part 6 link above, if you go to page 1, you will see links to all other parts, link to part 7 will be on its last page.

I suggest you FIRST start reading all of this thread and then let us know when you finish this one.


I suggest you use only FULL range receivers for 2.4 GHz, (no AR6100 , no AR6300).


Gryphon

hornetnz

Just a pic of my bird so far with the 2 new CF near the TE and my cut 1/8" ply fins. I ended up cutting little notches 1/3 to 1/2 deep in the CF so it would interlock with the toothpicks TE anchors. Hopefully that won't weaken that CF too much, but I think it'll be fine.

moparmyway

Can you give a quick opinion on using the hot glue ??
Was it easy ?
What did you use to coat those elevons ???...........they look great !!!!

hornetnz

I like the hotglue method, but if I were to do it again I'd have to get the full-size glue gun. The mini I have just doesnt get enough glue out fast enough. I dont remember what I used on my first one..think I just used epoxy. My biggest problem this round was getting the CF to lay deep enough in. I got them pretty close to flush, except the new ones I added to the TE are bumped out a bit.

I coated them with 30min epoxy..unthinned. I let it dry for a day or so and then sanded them down a bit. Still have to coat the fins.

I cut the fake air intakes off and now need to sand it down even with the body. I'm also gonna sand the body a bit to get the lil bumps off before I paint. Was gonna cover it like chipped or whomever mentioned it recently, but my budget likes $1 paint better than $10+ rolls of ultracoat. Besides, I can be more creative with an airbrush than a sealing iron. After painting tho, not much more I can do until I can afford to get the ESC and other goodies for it.

louierc

Good question for the experts: Any reason not to cut off the fake air intakes? maybe cut them back at a 45 degree angle at least to reduce drag?

moparmyway

Only reason is for room for BEC and flight battery, or for looks. On a stock Stryker, removing the airbrakes wont make all that much difference, but you can get an additional 1 or 2 mph from them being removed if you are trying for that extra speed on a modified speedy Stryker.
The airbrakes also help to strengthen the battery walls, so if you run the big batts, they will help to keep everything together.

hamburgrd

My Feedback: (1)

This thead is the reason I purchased a Stryker. So I figured I would post an in flight vid of my stock Stryker. Thanks to all in this thread for showing me such a fantastic plane.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gRQsugcFMkM

Flisms

NICEVIDEO! And music. I really like watching flight over snow....wish we had some here in SF. =) Fog doesnt quite make for a great video.

What kind of digi cam are you using? I plan to get one soon as my videos made with my cell phone taped to the bottom of my stryker arent so great. But fun none the less.

For your next video, find some trees to fly under or through. Flying under a canopy of trees would be SWEET! And maybe dumb, but SWEET!

flisms

hamburgrd

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks, for your kind remarks. I am using a flycamone2 for this vid. Around here there is not enough room between trees to fly a Stryker but maybe something slow small and light like a coax heli. I might have to try that with my cx2.

moparmyway

Nice open space !!!!!!!!!!!!
Welcome to our place.
Please feel free to post up any questions or comments you have on Strykers.

chippedprop

New video of lastest Stryker

http://www.youtube.com/user/chippedprop49

hamburgrd

My Feedback: (1)

I am very lucky to have a lot of room to fly. This spot in the vid is not even the largest. My aunt's farm has a front yard that is 1400'x100' with 50+ acers of hay/corn on each side. Plus I have several other places within a 10 min drive. If any one in the NW Pennsylvania area wants to come and sling some Strykers or any other plane PM me. I am always on the lookout for flying friends.

hornetnz

I think I read somewhere that some prefer something other than the hs-82mg servos, but heck if I remember what they liked better. What's everyones suggestions for most reliable servo?

Flisms

I love my 82mg's, though they are a bit heavy,I am very happy with the performance.
I stuffed 4 of them into my stryker , they seem strong and damage resistant.
Unfortunately my knowledge of best vs worst is minimal so this remains a personal opinion rather than suggestion.

hamburgrd

My Feedback: (1)

Very nice.

Gryphon

Guys,


FYI:
Mega motors make the most power and have the best quality and are made in Europe.

Ever since the Distributor of MEGA in USA went out of business about 3 weeks ago, we have been waiting to see who steps up to become the distributor. Instead,,,, for the time being there are going to be few super Dealers.

At this time there are 2 dealers who are able to order directly from the manufacturer.

They are going to be placing their order this week.

If anyone of you wants to place your order for top shelf Stryker motors capable various speeds up to 150+MPH, hurry up and get it done in the next 2 days.

One of the new dealers is going to place his order Friday morning, so if you want to get one quicker than otherwise, then place your order by Thursday afternoon.


16/25/X, 16/30/X, 16/35/X, or 16/40/X anyone


Gryphon

moparmyway

Do you have any links for this dealer(s) so I could order one in a "private" setting ? just in case there are computer illeterate Dudes (like me) ?

moparmyway

Hey hornetz,
Just the facts here;

HS85MG's come with an output bearing on the splined shaft that gets the servo arm bolted to.
HS82MG's do NOT have that bearing.

Now for my question to you, Sir;
Does this matter to you ?

My Answer would look like "How could it matter ? Whats this really mean ? Then I would suggest that you consider this;

I ran a few sets of 82MG's on some VERY heavy Strykers. I found that I developed significant flight controll flutter at high speeds (above 140+ mph) and wondered why ? So I grabben my 1 1/2 inch balsa elevon and started yanking the elevon with my grubby 5 fingers and saw ALOT of wobble on the arm without the servo giving way (thats the flutter). It seems that at higher strains, under more duress, the "no bearing" 82MG's were out of everything that I can controll with my DX7, and I had the HS5085MG, or the HS85MG in their place

I Do NOT want ANY movement, NOT unless I say so with a command from my DX7.



So,
I hope you see that an 82MG would be ABSOLUTELY a great choice for a Stryker with "STOCK ELEVONS", but...............
If you have or want balsa elevons that will give ALOT more command (under ALOT more stress), then you may just want the BEST servo in that class.....................
YES, slightly larger, but better controll over the course of HUNDREDS of flights.

That would be the HS85MG,
And there is allways the Digital version HS5085MG servo............................now thats the creme of the crop !!!!!!

moparmyway

Hey Chipped !!!!!!!!!!!!
Well Sir,
I believe that you set out to make the WORLDS BEST Stryker video, and you succeeded.
High speed Stryker flying is what I love !!!!!
Full throttle at high speeds with the precision of a no flex airfoil in a stiff Stryker !!!!
This is my new all time favorite Stryker video, although you could have listed the kv of the motor on the credits, I probably wouldnt have eithor. [X(]

AWSOME VIDEO !!!!!!!

chippedprop

Remember the 42.99 (delivered Price) Outrunner motor I have posted about...here's a link

http://shop.sapacamerica.com/browse.cfm/4,1402.html

The motor on landing was stone cold..outside air temp was 50 deg.

Motor is producing soon much power it BENT the motor mount..I have del. a fix by adding a alum L bracket and bolting it to the motor side and using the existing holes on the "shoe" of the mount where it bolts to the deck.

If you listen closely you can hear the RPM's drop after the 2nd launch.... It should sound and run at the high screaming pitch just after the first launch all the time during flights

The back of the motor (it spins) at WOT was rubbing the motor deck.....about a 1/4 gap orginially...I noticed the diff. angle of the motor and then on looking closer I could see the 1/8" deep mark on the deck under the motor....soooo....the mount is not designed to handle this power....I'll work on a better fix and or mount thru MicroDAN...he has a complete shop on site. May have to design my own mount for flat decks.....should not be to hard.

With the slight design changes trim settings are still neutral...in the video when you go from 1/2 the WOT it does not do it justice as you can really see the plane just jump....I just love it.

The pilot was actually doing a rolling circle at one point and I was so WOWed I stopped filming...maybe one day I can fly like that.
Cp

More to come on the video...next plane completed soon...then it's my turn to build one for ME.

chippedprop

Motor mount fixed

Stopped by Lowes and picked up 90 deg. alum. stock. Cut and drilled angle brackets to add on mount. Much stiffer.

Still will look into better mount or a better looking machined add on to fix

Cp

moparmyway

Best Stryker motor mount in the WORLD !!