SoppyJoe

My Feedback: (59)

My good friend George, a turbine guy currently deployed in Afganistan, called me the other day and asked "Hey would you mind putting together a T-28 for me, and do a few mods on it"? I thought to myself, "oh crap, not another PZ-T-28", since I have done like 6 in the past month, but how can I say no, the guy is in Afghanistan.

So, I thought a build thread on his would be a good way for George to see how things are moving along, and to share and get input from others as well.

I'll be doing flaps, navagation lights, motor upgrade, and working tailhook.

First up, Flaps! Following the aileron hinge line, I continue the line inboard to the fuse, and remove the flap with my xacto blade. Repeat on the other side and the flaps are off. Gotta love cutting foam.

SoppyJoe

My Feedback: (59)

Next, a line is drawn down the center of the leading edge of the flap, two Robart pin hinges are glued in and the leading edge is beveled below the centerline at about 45degs. Next the flap is fitted, but not glued to the wing, and the process is repeated on the other flap....Looking good so far.

lbarnes

This thread will give you some ideas on a motor upgrade and how to modify the firewall and motor mount.


http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9292394

Good luck to you and our armed forces overseas.

Larry

George

My Feedback: (57)

THANKS Bro!

It's lookin' great and I'll be checking the thread often![sm=thumbup.gif]

G

SoppyJoe

My Feedback: (59)

Thanks for the Tip Larry, on this one were going with the Monster 10..a knock-off of the the E-flight power 10 which is a 1100 kv bolt on replacement. It should arrive in the mail tomorrow.

The Flaps are linked to a single HS-55 servo via the Dubro 1/2A aileron linkage set. Only two small slots are needed and once the fuse is on the wing, everything will be nice and hidden. Flaps are glued to the wing, a small hole for the servo is cut in the center of the wing, and the push rod is hooked up. Tomorrow....Lights!

SoppyJoe

My Feedback: (59)

SoppyJoe

My Feedback: (59)

Next up, installing the lights in the wing.

First I just use a sharpend brass tube to bore a hole from the wing tip to the servo pocket in the wing. Then I just lift up the tape covering the servo lead, and run the led lead through the wing tip and down along the servo wire and out through the top of the wing. Push the tape back down a dab of glue on each bulb, and the wing is done. Red led on the left wing and green on the right.

On to the fuse....

lbarnes

Interesting approach to the flaps linkage. When I saw the first photo I was wondering how the heck you were going to get it to work with one servo. After the third picture it was answered.

All the years I have been building I have never thought of doing that for flaps.

If I had thought of it I would have saved the cost of the second servo.

Keep them coming....


After some research if found that the T-28 was used as a fighter aircraft at the end of the Vietnam war and by other countries.

To add some more to it look at the pic on this thread link

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9191385

Good luck..

Larry

SoppyJoe

My Feedback: (59)

On to the fuse,

First, out comes the Dremel to remove a bit of foam so the flap linkage will clear the bottom of the fuse. Next I remove the ESC. This gives me access to the push the two landing lights out through the two holes on the bottom of the nose. I just use a screwdriver to make the holes for the lights.

SoppyJoe

My Feedback: (59)

Yes it does save a few bucks without having to add a second servo, and doesn't put too much added load on the BEC. I wish I could take the credit for the flap mod. That goes to my my bud Jeff. I just made the setup a bit cleaner.

Joey

SoppyJoe

My Feedback: (59)

On to the tail strobe..

Since the fuse is hollow, this is easy work, I just use my screwdriver to make a hole at the base of the tail. Then from the bottom of the fuse, I use my long nose pliers and push the led up and out of the hole at the base of the tail. Next I slice a 1/8 slot, along the leading edge of the vertical stab. Starting at the top of the stab, I insert the led and tuck the lead into the cut slot working my way to the base of the tail.

I finish things up with a bead of CA, and the lights are in. She's gonna look sweet at night.

SoppyJoe

My Feedback: (59)

Lights installed and glowing[8D]

Next, the tailhook...

George

My Feedback: (57)

SoppyJoe

My Feedback: (59)

Moving on to the Tailhook...

I use a carbon rod, some brass tube, a 440 clevis, and some scrap 5/32 plywood..

The brass is flattend on one end, and rolled into a hook shape and both the brass and clevis are glued into the rod with some 5min epoxy.

I cut a slot in the rear of the fuse and glue the plywood mount in with 5min as well. The hook and mount will get some paint a little later on, but its lookin sweet.

SoppyJoe

My Feedback: (59)

Now linking it up...

The tail hooked will be simply tied to a string, run through the fuse to a HS-55 Servo. I make a string guide out of a plastic antenna tube, heated with a lighter and bent into a 90deg. Then a hole is made about an 1" behind the pivot point of the tailhook, and the string guide is inserted all the way flush into the fuse, with the bend pointed forward. Then glued with some thin CA.

SoppyJoe

My Feedback: (59)

To finish things off, I tie some spectra fishing ling to the tailhook and run it through the string guide into the fuse. To counter some of tha added weight to the tail, I hot glue the servo as far forward as I can. A brass threaded solder connector is flattend and drilled to tie the string to.
Finally, the string length is adjusted and hooked up to the servo!

SoppyJoe

My Feedback: (59)

And here it is,

Flaps down, Tailhook down, and Lights on. Night traps are going to be KICKING![8D]

With any luck the motor should arrive soon.

George

My Feedback: (57)

Joey,
That thing looks AWESOME!! (I salute you!)

SoppyJoe

My Feedback: (59)

Finally got the motor installed, but the monster 10 isn't the bolt on I heard it was, however installation was simple. I just used the mount the comes with the motor and used it as a template to drill two extra holes on the T-28 motor mount.

She's lookin sweet George!

Joey.

lbarnes

Joe, please give more details on the motor your using. I think I know which one it is and was going to buy one myself.

Larry

SoppyJoe

My Feedback: (59)

No prob Larry,

It's the Monster 10 by Exceed-Rc Hobbypartz.com sells them for about $18 bucks. Its a 35-42 1100kv.
Here is a link to there page: http://www.hobbypartz.com/monsterpow...ess-motor.html.

The ESC on this plane has the EC-3 plug and all my batteries and Watt meter have deans, so I can't give actual amp draw and Watts, but I did do some rigging with some alligator clips and ran the motor up....Way more power than the stock motor.

The problem that I ran into was the prop shat that comes with the Monster 10. It didn't allow for enough prop clearance with the cowl. I tried to use the stock prop adapter, however the motor shaft on the Monster 10 is slightly larger, and I don't have a way to drill out the stock prop adapter accurately so George ordered the Eflight EFLM1942 4mm adapter and collet. Problem solved.

A few of the guys at my field are using some of the other Monster motors and from what I have seen they put out some respectable power for the price.

The bad thing is I can't give a flight report for another 5 weeks or so. Thats when my bud George, the owner of the plane, gets home.

lbarnes

I had the same issue with my Hobby king 3542/1100Kv. I was able to add some washers on the prop shaft to move the prop out and not hit the cowl. After I did all that I noticed that at 1/2 throttle I got a really bad vibration. I inspected the firewall and noticed that it had 2 small cracks and was not as ridgid as it should be. I added a 1/8 ply to the firewall and then bolted the motor mount onto it.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9314998

That solved 2 issues:

1. no more vibrations
2. prop cleared the cowl without spacers.

Your motor seems to have the same spec's as my Hobby king Turnigy 35-42, 1100Kv. My experience with it is WOW[:-]

10 ft takeoffs and straight up performance. It will fly at 1/2 throttle as the stock motor did a full.

Beef up the ESC and Li Po to 30C if you got it. , my motor will pull 27-32Amps with a 10 x 7 APC.

My first testing was with a 20C, 3s. I was getting 288w at 29A and 48oz thrust. with a 30C, 3s I got 412w, 36A, 60oz thrust with the same prop for short period.

Have fun, great posts and modifications.

Larry

Navy0968

Here are pics of the mods I made, which include paint, flaps, speed brake & landing gear.

Eplane65

My Feedback: (16)

Navy0968,

Your T-28 mods look great!

Navy0968

Thanks Eplanes65.