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-   -   F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side... (https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/park-flyers-backyard-flyers-148/6069877-f27-stryker-way-past-limits-part-6-go-deeper-dark-side.html)

BubbleGum 12-12-2007 09:39 PM

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 
1 Attachment(s)
SU27ish Update

I have put 19 flights on this bird. Each flight was followed by trimming. Each day of flying was followed by mods to the tail.

It has been a blast flying this plane and a great learning experience. But the design needs some major rethinking. In its original form, it was highly unstable. The progressive mods I have made have improved the flight characteristics. But there doesn't seem to be anymore tweaks available. A new build is needed.

Anyways, here's what I did.

Pic 1, Original build.

Pic 2, Original side view of rudder.

Pic 3, Same view as #2 showing some of the lower rudder removed to reduce rudder induced roll. The horizontal line on the rudder is the center line of the prop.

Pic 4. Same as #3 but with even more of the lower rudder removed. This reduced rudder roll tremendously. But some still remains. You just need to be gently with the rudder. If you give it hard rudder it will go into a wicked 6 rpm spin :D. Not what I want but cool none the less. This is the final configuration.

Pic 5, The final configuration showing extensions added to the elevator. This helped reduce 'elevator stall'.

Another tweak was to raise the angle on both ailerons. With the ailerons in their neutral position, the plan wants to fly with the CoG moved further back. But moving the CoG back just made it even more unstable.




BubbleGum 12-12-2007 09:43 PM

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 
1 Attachment(s)
And on the 20th flight I crashed. I was making a pass across the runway and put it into a rudder spin. The plane stalled, I tried to recover but belly flopped in the middle of the runway. Only damage was the landing gear broke off. AND the right elevator broke off. That's good news! Now I have a reason to rebuild the tail.

Stay tuned...

~Bub

Gryphon 12-13-2007 02:23 AM

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 
KiwiKid,

I was telling my buddy about your 3rd plane (The Vulcan ) and its paint scheme. I said remember when you printed the pictures nearly 2 years ago and called me screaming telling me that you have something I would love to see.
He said not only he remembers, he STILL HAS THOSE PICS in his house....LOL...

I thought you would like to know how much my best friend and I enjoyed/appreciated seeing the Vulcan (Stryker)....keep it flying forever.

Nice videos, great balance of music and sound of motor. Music is not over powering the sound of the motor, GOOD WORK.

The flanker is one of the most beautiful jets in the world, you got yourself a real beauty and it obviously flies nice too.



Keep the posts/videos coming.

Gryphon

Gryphon 12-13-2007 02:45 AM

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 
cbr954rr,

I have not heard any negative feedback with the 3.5mm connectors being used on 16/25/3.

On the 16/25/2 the amps were much higher than the 16/25/3, and I was fine given the 30+ flights at 80A to 90+A.
Before they had a chance to go bad, I moved up to CC phoenix 125A ESC from CC80A and now the wires were much bigger, they were 10 gauge.

10 gauge is as big as outside of a 3.5mm connector if not bigger as I recall.

4mm was not big enough and also my buddy didn't like the length of the 4mm connectors, their lengths were much too long and he hated separating them, also in a crash, he was not getting the separation that he wanted, the cost of crashes were higher than otherwise due to the 4mm connectors as he believed.

What did I do, as I was getting ready to get the 5 or 5.5mm? I found out that Steve NEU of NEU motors used to sell those, but he decided to make his own connectors, so he made 6mm, with higher rating, better features and for less money...every advantage, so I bought his 6mm connectors.
Those fat per-thinned 10 gage CC125A ESC wires fit right in the female connector.

***But I tell you the little motor wires look awfully lonely in the male end of the 6mm connector. :D Looks a little un-natural. It is also a little harder to fit under hatch in my case, because I'm cramming a lot under the hatches.


**I've heard that some people who push the connectors hard (any size, any type, deans/bullets/etc), change them once per racing season....


Gryphon

Gryphon 12-13-2007 03:05 AM

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 
BubbleGum,

Thanks for the update, keep us updated.

Nice work and I see that you have been making it progress and that it flies better now. Way to go.


If I remember right, you fly with the MEGA 16/25/2.


Did you ever try the rudder(master) to aileron(slave) mix?
If left rudder gives you left roll, then program left rudder to give you some right aileron to counter that.....only when you are ready.
Might be worth trying various percentage of mix over several flights.


If I remember right, you wanted to get it to fly better without mixes before trying the mixes.


Have fun on research and design...looks like lots of fun, something to be proud of.


Gryphon

Stryker_Viking 12-14-2007 01:52 PM

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 
CRAZY FANTASTIC NUMBERS ON THE A123 RACING CELLS

Though perhaps a bit off topic I thought you all might have use of this info...

UPS dropped off my first cells from A123-racing yesterday, and while reading through the information for these cells I came to realize that the specifications are quite impressive, and should be shared:

Example:
Capacity - 2300 mAh
Nominal voltage - 3.3 Volt
Cell weight - 70 gram (2.47 oz) ~~ A 3s would come in at 210 gram (7.4 oz)


OK, a bit heavier then a 3s LiPo, but wait;

Recommended full charged - 3.6 Volt
Maximum full charged - 4.2 Volt

Cut-Off Voltage - 2 Volt / cell

Maximum continuous discharge current - 60 Amp / cell

Maximum recommended cell temperature - 70 degree Celsius (158 Fahrenheit)
Maximum allowed cell temperature - 85 degree Celsius (185 Fahrenheit)


This in combination with the extremely fast charge rate of 10 Amp and the total absence of danger like exploding LiPo packs or just ruined packs due to discharge or overheating might make this an interesting alternative for Amp-Hogs...???

Or did I miss something...???

Stryker_Viking

EDIT:
...and I did mix up the fundamental fact that cells in series will not increase their capacity (Amps) as Gryphon pointed out, only voltage will increase... (incorrect sentence deleted)
Still fantastic cells that can handle discharge/charge like that
Thanks /S

Gryphon 12-14-2007 03:56 PM

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 
Stryker_Viking,

Good post, Good facts in there. I think the main reason people don't run them is electric planes is due to weight concerns.


I do believe you might have made 1 mistake:

You wrote,
"Maximum continuous discharge current - 60 Amp / cell
This will give you 180 Amp for a 2300 3s pack"

unless those are unrelated numbers for constant "C" versus burst "C" rating, then it is incorrect if you are trying to be in series and add up voltages. You are correct only if Burst "C" is 3 times Const "C"
_________
Other wise the way you wrote it would be correct for 3 cells in parallel, 1S3P, which voltages would not add up and you would end up with same voltage of 3.3V, but you would get 2300X3=6900mAH triple capacity and triple amp rating.

***In a series, the voltages add up, but capacity and amp rating remains the same.
So for 3S (3S1P) 3X3.3=9.9V but amp rating remains constant.....also 60A

_________________
I am sure that there will be some combinations that could benefit from the cells. But not you and I in our all out setups.
In our crazy high amp setups one cell can not flow enough, so we would have to pair them up as in 3S2P (6 cells total, 3S voltage, double amp&capacity) , 4S2P (8 cells total, 4S voltage, double amp&capacity), 5S2P (10 cell total, 5S voltage, double amp&capacity).
Now as you already stated they are heavy, so we can't go for them.
________________

But there has to be guys who can benefit from them as long as they do not require amps above a single cells amp flow capabilities.
They will carry a little extra weight but their benefits will be more crash proof battery, extra safety, more of a constant power as battery gets empty compared to lipoly, less critical cutoff voltage, etc....
A new charger will be needed, but they do start on low end of scale and go up.
Fancy chargers can just download new firmware at no cost...Like TP1010C. New chargers come with that capability built in them.

_____________
I understand you have been doing some car racing. These cells are very popular in cars and trucks...best way to go for them.



Later buddy,

Gryphon

Gryphon 12-16-2007 02:24 AM

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 
For people who like to push the MEGA 16/25/3 and 16/25/4 at over 6S with more amps than the CC 45 HV can take, here is an option:

http://www.electrifly.com/powersyste...verseries.html
Look at the last one, the 60A unit, made by Great Planes.
I would also buy the program card too.

$99 or less????
60A ESC, 72A max
4S-12S
Does not have BEC, but has OPTO Isolator built in.

I think 16/25/3 can be run on 7S in Stryker (motor rating is up to 9S, but prop will be too small after 7S). 7S needs min 60A to keep prop size up, 70 max.
_____
16/25/4 at 7S, OR 8S (50-60A).
4S+3S in series=7S
4S+4S in series=8S

Cells need to be good enough to handle the amps.
If two packs are used in series, they need to be identical specs and in same condition.
________________
Either motor should be able to use this ESC to get to 130MPH.


16/25/3 on regular ESC (non HV) should be able to get to about 130 MPH on 6S but at near 70A range. This motor should not be pushed above 70A as far as I know.
The tests and in flight feedback that I have seen/heard about; has been mostly in the 50-60A range with one guy running on 70A for many flights with no issues.

16/25/4 has been ran at 50A, I have not heard more than 60A being ran/tested on this motor. The resistance is too high to really push more.
__________________
Not much use to go to higher voltage if not going to at least run a 6X5.5 prop given a stock profile Stryker.



Have fun,

Gryphon

Gryphon 12-16-2007 02:27 AM

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 
With a stock profile Stryker, at 125MPH and above, I highly recommend using a prop larger than 5.5".
5.5" diameter prop will no longer be a good/efficient prop at this high speed.

Consider 130MPH max for 6" prop.

To get to 125MPH more and more down elevator is needed and the drag goes up big time.

If you believe that you can push the stock profile Stryker at higher speeds than 130 MPH, then start designing around a 6.5" diameter or 7" diameter prop (using bigger motors than 480 I believe). If MEGA, then look at 22/30/X, 22/35/X, 22/45/X. IF NEU motor or MEDUSA then also get a motor well above 4 o.z. up to 8 +o.z.

Just remember at 130 MPH there will monstrous diminishing returns as far as power required to get extra speed due to drag and even worse, the down elevator to stay level.

**May want to play with motor height installation and vertical thrust line to help the down elevator issue.


I hope you find this info useful,

Gryphon

JDXX 12-16-2007 12:11 PM

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 
I plan on getting the mega 16 25 3 for my stryker. I want to be able to use my tp2070's 25c and simular batteries paralell and in series to get different speeds and flight times. Iwill be using a eflight 60 amp pro switch mode esc. My hopes are to be able to run long flight times when I want or to go super fast when I want.I use these batteries for my mini titan heli and my medium sized 3D planes so it would be effecient to me to have this setup. Thats what I get from reading here, what do you think?

JDXX 12-16-2007 12:32 PM

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 
Also I see different motor mounts on some of your Strykers. I read here about an adjutable mount I think. Anyway what mount do you think is best for the stryker with the mega 16 25 3, and where to get it.

Gryphon 12-17-2007 12:43 AM

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 
JDXX,

There has been reports of 6S-2200 20C and same MEGA 16/25/3 1700KV motor and CC60A(80A burst) ESC and larger being ran at 120-125+MPH in level fight.
The reported numbers are right on track with my expectations and actual testing given 16/25/2 2650KV (4S, HIGHER Amps) making about same power on same size prop.

Stock F-27C Elevons are good to 110MPH, maybe 115MPH given a good tape job on the wing and C.F. in the right places.

You need to either build wooden elevons attached to wooden T.E. or try a mod that my buddy claims has worked for his Stryker. It is application of thin C.F. blanket to top and bottom surfaces of stock elevon for a 10 minute job. He uses CA for his glue. Ask me later.

I recommend a $5 heat sink. It may not be required but at least it will have a cool look to it. Not a bad idea for a motor that you may want to occasionally prop at 60-70A.
3S may get you up to 100MPH if pushed. 90+MPH is no sweat on good 3S.

I have not heard any feed back on that ESC, seems to be much lower price than Hyperion 80A COOL BEC ESC, or the CC 80A ESC (CC needs UBEC).
Please let us know what you think of that E-flight ESC (will not need UBEC).

Some one sent me a link for the Hyperion 80A unit at about the $124 range(non US link) instead of the $138, you may want to consider it and it will leave you breathing room for future setups, summer heat, etc... If interested ask me for that link.

If you don't have the batteriesd yet, consider 2200 25C cells, but even the 2070 25C is better than the 2200 20C. If you have the 2070 25C cels, you'll be happy.
After the batteries are cycled, on 6S-2070 (series) you will be running APC E 6X5.5 prop.
On 3S(parallel = 4140mAH) maybe APC sport 7X7, 7X8, or APC E 8X6.
APC E 8X8 as a max 3S prop using a wattmeter.
Your batteries need to be in same condition.
If a single 3S-2070 is used, then smaller prop will be needed.

***Do you have a wattmeter?

Only option is the F-27C motor mount. Unless you are going to make/adapt your own. Where did you read about the adjustable motor mount?

Are you running on 72MHz or 2.4GHz?


Last note; there are other top quality motors out there, such as NEU and MEDUSA. If you want I can help you choose a good one from them. If less than 4 o.z. they will fall behind in performance compared to the 3.9 o.z. MEGA....stay away from 3.2 o.z. motors such as MEGA 16/15/X, or smaller NEU and Medusa motors. The smaller 400 sized motors can not handle the higher amp levels well.

Your PM request will be taken care of when I get back home.

Later,
Gryphon

Stryker_Viking 12-18-2007 07:43 AM

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 
1 Attachment(s)
Twin motor high...

Well, though not exactly a Stryker, still thought I should share a little...

Since I have always been curious to get a chance to experience the magics on the subject of multi-motor, and coincidently stumbled over this this old German kit (Robbe) on ebay recently, no wonder I was so lucky to get it, and for that price - almost nothing...

It's a 55" twin motor wing a'la Zagi but an older design, big and thick.
I powered the wing with two of Ron's Wicked HA450's and two of his Pentium ESC's + TP Extreme V2 4s 3850.
This combination creates a sound that is almost unbelievable and magic...

Here is a picture of the old lady.
Doesn't she look almost like a Stryker mom???

Stryker_Viking


Spid 12-18-2007 06:08 PM

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 
Very cool Styker_Viking!

kamikaze2 12-18-2007 08:24 PM

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 
Stryker Viking nice picture of your plane. Is that the stryker that went 138mph. If so how many amps where you pulling and are you using an 80 amp speed control? Also what is your plane wrapped in? Your vertical fins appear not to be stock height have you cut them down? In previous posts you have mentioned the ounces of your plane is this one also 40 ounce+ plane?

Gryphon 12-19-2007 12:48 AM

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 
JDXX,

All done.

_________________________

Stryker_Viking,

Hello there buddy boy....you know the routine.....DETAILS...we want details.

Is that some sort of antenna sticking out the front?
I see how the clear canopy slides in place(slot in front), nice touch. Co-pilot, etc...good picture, awesome plane.

As usual, you are a true artist and do good work.

It was good to talk to you a few hours ago, but I forgot to ask you about the dual motored plane above.

What size props, same direction or counter rotating?

Did you notice the APC prop list that I posted for you on last page (post #1468)?? The last letter "P" denotes pusher prop (reverse pitch). Those props are also available in regular pitch instead of reverse. So you can have a pair of counter rotating props if you choose from that list.


Our common buddy was supposed to radar you, did you guys ever get together? I know when he gets off work it is starting to get dark. So there is a timing issue. Maybe one of these weekends....


Later,

Gryphon

JDXX 12-19-2007 02:02 AM

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 
Thank you Grypon. Ive orderd my 16 25 3 mega combat model today from new creations. New stryker fuse, fins and hs 81 mg from local hobby shop. I allso orderd all props mentioned in your post (to me) except 7x7 from tower including pylon props 6.5x 5 6 & 6.5. I have one tp 2070 and will get another to go with it,allso have been looking at the batteries from Air Thunder and will get two 2200 or bigger 25c or greater. I do not have a watt meter , what is a good deal on a quality easy to use one? I will be making balsa elevons, as I have a box of balsa fron tower hobbies under the dresser gatering dust. I will probably cover them with fiberglass of cf. I plan to make a canopy custom from fiberglass. I have a stock styker c that I will fly for now With the e flight 60 esc as this build will take a while. I think I saw the mention of the fun jet mount being adjustable somwhere in this thred, but I am too lazy to look for it. I am running on 72 MHz and should proably get a better reciever for the stryker project, current reciver is fut r114f. Thanks again for the info, I will have to email it to my mother and open it there as I dont have accel.

BubbleGum 12-19-2007 05:43 PM

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 
Stryker Viking, Awesome!. You put thrust differential on that bird ;)


ORIGINAL: Gryphon

After the batteries are cycled, on 6S-2070 (series) you will be running APC E 6X5.5 prop.
On 3S(parallel = 4140mAH) maybe APC sport 7X7, 7X8, or APC E 8X6.
APC E 8X8 as a max 3S prop using a wattmeter.
Your batteries need to be in same condition.
If a single 3S-2070 is used, then smaller prop will be needed.

Later,
Gryphon
You answered my question Gryphon. My old 16/25/2 stopped working properly (more on that in a future thread), so I bought the 16/25/3. I maidened the new motor on my 100+ flight 'Amp Pig'. Using a no-name 20c 3s 4000 and my usual 6x5.5 APC it barely had the power to get off the ground. I switched the prop to the 7x5 for the second flight and it had much more power. The motor and battery barely got warm. On the 16/25/2, the battery would always get on the too warm side. For some reason I had it in my head that I couldn't use a large prop with the 16/25/3.

I was checking the prices of UBEC's and at around $30, well it just makes more sense to buy the new E-flight 60A ESC that can handle 6s for about $80. I'll pick it up at the LHS and fly the old bird at 6s tomorrow. I made myself a two pack series adaptor.

Maiden with the 6x5.5?

~Bub

Gryphon 12-19-2007 07:37 PM

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 
BubbleGum,

I need to know a few things first.

1) What batteries you are going to run.

2) Are they cycled a few times, or you need a suggested prop for cycling them as well. (I would cycle them individually as 3S, because at 6S to keep amps way down the prop size will be way too small or just run 6X3 prop and stay mostly level to cycle new 6S battery).

3) Is that on a regular Stryker or your Hybrid Stryker?

4) Do you have wooden elevons?

5) Goal of near max speed or max climbing?

6) Assuming 2070-2200 cells, you might be slightly past the continuous current rating (a little into burst range), is that O.K.?

Max power on 3S, and 4S can be made using 3300 25C cells.
To keep total weight down, people seem to step down to 2500 cells at 5S, and at 6S they go down to 2070-2200 cells. So for a good 6S combination, it is a little hard to stay away from dipping into the burst range a little.
If you are going to run 2500 30C cells PM me.

For 6S:
6X4 will drop a lot of amps near max speed of 105 MPH? Amps should be low enough to be good for even 15C cells. Will work with F-27C elevons.
6X5 may start at close to 60A?? and unload 10A by the time it reaches max speed. With stock elevons, you might start to get some roll to one side near top speed.

Build the bird nose heavy to prevent unwanted climbing at max speed, or to get less of that effect.
Using down elevator to keep bird level will reduce your level flight speed. More nose heavy will reduce the amount of needed down elevator trim or stick input.

Being 1" or more nose heavy is not unheard of (compared to stock C.G. points). A friend did 1.5" nose heavy.


***If batteries are cycled, just go with 6X4 prop for maiden. Expect to hear may be a 10% RPM increase as speed increases. This will not be the case with other 1:1 props. Memorize that sound because you will not hear as many RPMs on later props.

If you have wattmeter and tach, record the data and share it with us please.

Simulation says 6X4 through 6X5.5 will have about the same climbing.
I use the MOTOCALC reported climbing rate only for comparison purposes, but it shows the Stryker will maintain a little over 60 MPH at 90 degree vertical.
My brother loved the RPMs of his 16/25/3 with my 5S battery compared to his 4S battery. But you will hear some good RPM on 6S MUhhahahahaha.


********* Don't forget to go through the setup of your new ESC *************** Range check too. ********


Gryphon

Gryphon 12-19-2007 07:52 PM

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 
JDXX,

Check your PM inbox.

Gryphon

JDXX 12-19-2007 08:27 PM

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 
Hey grphon thanx fo the pm. I Am going to try those pylon props I got on my stock stryker. I will use the 6.5x5 First then the 6.5x6 and maybe even the 6.5x6.5???? My tp 2070 if fairly new and not too abused (I think or hope) . Regardless I will be getting new 25c or greater 2200-2500 packs to run for my main 6c setup. Heres a question thats surely debateable. What are the current BEST, MOST POWERFULL lipo's on the market? Has anyone tried the Air Thunder batteries?
I thought about putting the mega on the stryker I have now but dont think I will, unless I fry the stock motor before I get my F27 Darkside built. I think the step up will be exciting so I will wait to run the mega untill Im ready to try it on 6c. muhaahamuhaahamuhaaha

jimweda 12-19-2007 09:15 PM

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 
Dude, that's a great looking bird. I'd love to see video of that in flight and hear how it sounds. Did you do the deco as well? Looks kind of like a thin mylar or something. What's the deal on it, let me know. What kind of flight times and speeds are you getting with that set up? I have a TwinJet I need to put together but haven't figured out what set up I should go with yet. You're sounds like a great one to start looking into since the TwinJet is a mother in itself. hehe

Jim


ORIGINAL: Stryker_Viking

Twin motor high...

Well, though not exactly a Stryker, still thought I should share a little...

Since I have always been curious to get a chance to experience the magics on the subject of multi-motor, and coincidently stumbled over this this old German kit (Robbe) on ebay recently, no wonder I was so lucky to get it, and for that price - almost nothing...

It's a 55" twin motor wing a'la Zagi but an older design, big and thick.
I powered the wing with two of Ron's Wicked HA450's and two of his Pentium ESC's + TP Extreme V2 4s 3850.
This combination creates a sound that is almost unbelievable and magic...

Here is a picture of the old lady.
Doesn't she look almost like a Stryker mom???

Stryker_Viking



jimweda 12-19-2007 09:28 PM

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 
Have you thought about building a double rail going into a single elevator/rudder? Same starting point as the two but extending out towards the center line behind the motor. A buddy of mine, years ago had a similar set up. It was a wing he designed with double fins and wanted to experiment so he built what I am trying to explain. I wish I had pics. From motor to tail was half of what motor to nose is. The thing flew really nice and I think having the thrust blow across the elevator and rudder also helped it fly so well. Just a thought since you're rebuilding.

Jim


ORIGINAL: BubbleGum

And on the 20th flight I crashed. I was making a pass across the runway and put it into a rudder spin. The plane stalled, I tried to recover but belly flopped in the middle of the runway. Only damage was the landing gear broke off. AND the right elevator broke off. That's good news! Now I have a reason to rebuild the tail.

Stay tuned...

~Bub

BubbleGum 12-19-2007 10:38 PM

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 


ORIGINAL: jimweda

Have you thought about building a double rail going into a single elevator/rudder? Same starting point as the two but extending out towards the center line behind the motor. A buddy of mine, years ago had a similar set up. It was a wing he designed with double fins and wanted to experiment so he built what I am trying to explain. I wish I had pics. From motor to tail was half of what motor to nose is. The thing flew really nice and I think having the thrust blow across the elevator and rudder also helped it fly so well. Just a thought since you're rebuilding.

Jim
Yeah Jim. That is exactly what I am doing. The new set up has a 1 1/2 wide strip of 3/32 plywood between the ends of the two. . . . pontoon/stick thingies (need a word for those things). That is the base of the tale. The elevator will be larger and further back. They will be attached to the base strip with hinges, the cross dowel is gone. The elevators will extend a bit inward so the prop wash will give some zero velocity control the first version did not have. There will be a single rudder in the center of the base. There will be a hole in the middle of the rudder at its base for the elevator cross beam.

Hope you get the visual. Easier to say then draw. But harder to build. I post when it is done. lots of free time coming up :D

~Bub

Gryphon 12-19-2007 10:42 PM

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 
JDXX,

F-27C motor, 60A ESC, TP Extreme battery; Sure you can go try any of those APC 6.5" Pylon props. Let the various part temps be your general guide.
Get a $5 heat sink for motor; it will not be a waste of money...Look for a 28mm diameter motor heat sink.

I use the yellow one from Align. Local stores such as Hobby Town USA carry them.
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TP makes the 25 cells
Flight power and NEU have 30C cells.

Which is best, I don't know.
Are they over rated? Don't know.

Air Thunder Batteries: research on RCUniverse and let us know.

Link: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/forumid_126/tt.htm

Search and read posts, also place your own post.
Power is expressed in watts 746W=1Hp
1W= 1A X 1V
Volt is read under load, not before or after test.

If another battery cell type has lower Volts, then it needs to flow higher amps to make same power.

**What about ESC cutoff options for special battery type?
I just don’t know anything about the Air Thunder Batteries.

Castle Creations Phoenix ESC can have any cutoff voltage that you want, all the way down to 0.1 increments using the castle link. I don’t know about other ESCs.
Just for that reason if Air Thunder Batteries voltages differ too much, then you might want to get different ESC, or not run those batteries.

_________________________
2500 cells are longer, so you might not be able to fit them one in front of the other.

I have seen 45 to 48 mm wide packs be installed either vertical or horizontal. So you should be able to install a pack that has cross section of 48X48mm???????

My 3S-5000 cells are160mm long and 48 wide. 4S-3850 is 148mm long and same weight.

http://www.neumotors.com/20061222/Batteries.html

http://www.bestrc.com/flightpower/ Check prices against www.towerhobbies.com

http://thunderpowerrc.com/html/extreme-V2.html usually lighter per mAH compared to other two.

At first glance, it looks like only NEU makes 2500 cells that are 30C. Imagine 6.5"X5.0" diameter prop’s climbing......WOW......Motor will work very hard but I bet it will not over heat. Buggy told me his never over heated even while set at 70A with heat sink.

Are you planning on running the two packs side by side or end to end?

End to end will give you more surface area and they can run cooler, but you will run out of room for other parts such as ESC, receiver. Receiver can fit anywhere (behind nose?) and ESC can go in wing.

Side by side will leave room for other components. 160mm max length will work.
Shorter 105mm packs will be bulkier, so (2) 3S side by side will have huge cross sectional area and least cooling. It looks like only NEU makes 2500 30C packs and they are 105mm long.

I only saw the 2500 packs in 5S max, so you will need (2) 3S packs...which I think is what you want any way.


Flight power 2500 25C packs are 130 mm long and two of them side by side will have a smaller cross sectional area, and still leave plenty of room for ESC and receiver.

Any 2500 25 C or 30C will be better than 2200 25C.


Have fun,
Gryphon


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