RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 

[email protected],

If you have the 2700KV on this link, then you may be flying in the 85-90 MPH range.
http://www.electrifly.com/powersyste...mmo-28-45.html

I have not seen that motor before. It is on the heavy side, but just a little heavy. It seems to be a power house. At least in my simulation...for what it is worth.

It appears that if you push that motor hard enough with a bigger prop and better battery and ESC that it is capable to take you to 100 MPH on 3S without any mods to the airframe. But that will be deep into your current ESC's burst range(little over???) and the motor will not be over heating according to simulation.

The more (edit: airframe) mods, the less power you need to get there.

It appears that you are on the right track.

Right now, you just need to check the amps to make sure that you are not hurting your 1800 battery....it better be 20C.

*** I take back the comment that this motor may need to have its resistance value halved in MOTOCAlC simulation....it couldn't possibly be any faster than it appears....wow...I didn’t think great planes had any decent motors for crazy power. I know it is heavier and bigger than E-flight six series 2700 motor (which I do like) but initially it looks like it’ll be a no contest thing.

How much does this motor cost?
How did you end up with this motor, tell us the story.

I want to compare your actual wattmeter reading to my simulation and when I trust my simulation on your motor, I can give you a combination to go faster. Consider running a 3300 battery for longer flight, more power and less strain on the battery.
It will fit; we run 3S-5000, 4S-3850, 5S-3300 batteries with ease.

At this point, it will be good to get feedback from you regarding battery temp of your 1800 after landing and a wattmeter reading as soon as you can get one. Actually make note of W, A.

If I missed a question or detail, let me know.

Have fun,
Gryphon

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 

Stryker_Viking,


Check this out.

http://www.hobby-lobby.com/elecprop.htm

It is a decent selection of props on one page.

**Make sure to scroll down past the APC props.


Gryphon

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 

Well with the help of a fellow flying nut I got my super stryker back in the middle of this mess. He is building a shadow of mine. We hope to complete these by early Feb if not sooner. I got my elevons right this time. I ruined a few sets trying different things. I am going to epoxy them tonight. They are already hinged (fit not set with glue yet) and ready to permanently mount. We grabbed robart #331 ball link horns w/clevises and 4-40 rod for our 81mg's to push. Both are using 4s 3850 TP, MEGA 16/25/2, 125A CC esc, CC BEC, FMA direct co-pilot, one dx7 and one futaba 75mzh (mine). He is using wider elevons. Will keep you's posted. Here's some pics,

Kevin

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 

Mr. Mugen,

Here are a few things for your consideration.

Since the elevons are fit, but have not been glued yet, you can retain the wooden elevon with a full length strip of 3M Extreme tape. I’m sure you have epoxied the T.E.s to end of foam, but I’m, not sure that is enough.
Fold half of the tape above the wing, and half of it below the wing. That will retain the wooden T.E. in place and make sure that your Elevon does not rip off after a 130 MPH run followed by full up elevator or after a 160+ MPH dive followed by full up elevator.

See my pics on page 5 and page 9.
Take a close look at 3rd pic on page 5, it shows the tape covering the T.E. The tape also serves to protect the wood from the elements, water, etc....

I mixed some Rubbing alcohol with epoxy and brushed it on ½ of the elevon, I tied the other end with a string so the elevon could hang. After drying I brushed the other half and hanged to dry. I used 30 min epoxy, and realized that watering it down with rubbing alcohol does not extend its working time…barely had enough time to do half and to fix any screw ups.
Finished job was not the smoothest. It took a few days for that tacky feel to completely go away, I was getting worried. Finished product is truly a strong elevon that is protected from the elements.

***Page 9 shows that I used 1/32" Aircraft plywood epoxied on bottom of balsa elevon after sanding off 1/32" of my 5/16" thick elevons. Finished assembly was still 5/16" thick at the thickest part. Most of the stiffness of my elevon is due to this mod, thanks to teachings of Stryker_Viking. The Plywood on bottom also protects the soft balsa from scratches.

Make sure that with the elevon pushed against the T.E. (with almost zero gap) that there is enough deflection up and down.

If you do not have enough deflection; sand the angle of the elevon at the hinge line to a sharper point.

Sand things straight to get a smaller gap if needed.

Before I applied the CA to paper CA hinges, I kept tension on the elevon towards the T.E. to make sure that there was no gap in the hinge line. It turned out to be beautiful, zero play in any direction except for elevon being able to freely deflect up or down.
As my brother puts it: air molecules have to line up single file to go through that gap.

Make sure the second bird gets the two tubes that you put behind the nose. I'm referring to your pics on page 1 of this thread (2nd pic).
That is one of my favorite mods, has saved me a lot of $.....lipo $.

I thought you were running 2.4 GHz, but any way, for the non 2.4 GHz setup, it looks like the receiver needs to go far away from the motor and ESC. People are putting it behind the nose or in the wing. One guy with landing gear put it under the wing, but in your case, maybe on top of wing would be better due to lack of landing gear (only if you are not going to put it behind the nose). Make sure to keep the receiver a good 3" to 4" away from ESC and motor.
Using 2.4GHz, I put my receiver touching the ESC's 4 capacitors and have had no problems...see pics.

My BEC was installed on right side of battery, the AR7000's second receiver(satellite unit) was installed on the left side of the battery.

Cycle each battery twice with APC sport 6X3, but after the launch and altitude gain, make sure to stay in level flight. During climbing the amps will go up. Cycle each battery twice then go to 6X4 to get used to more speed and to cycle the battery once or twice more.
***Note: Even the amp draw of a prop such as 5X3 is too much, but either one will drop down to correct amp range at max full throttle level speed. The 6X3 will start with 3 times the power compared to its power at max speed, all that extra power will provide you with an awesome and easy launch. Really great vertical and acceleration should you need it to get out of trouble.
But the name of the game is to cycle the battery the first 2 times. Stay level, O.K.?????? Full speed maybe about 75 MPH.
*** Consider setting ESC timing on low for the first 2 flights. Any decent climbing that brings a smile on your face means that you are running double the amps or more. Call it a guilty smile.

You'll be ready to fly with anything from Aeronaut 6X5, APC E 6X5.5, or Graupner CAM 6X6.

With any of those you can run LOW, STD, or HIGH ESC timing on your CC Phoenix ESC. That is a great way to fine tune your amps/watts.

The 6X6 on high ESC Timing advance gave me 1330W and 164 MPH pitch speed with a one size smaller battery(4S-3300 22C) than yours but the battery was fresh off of the charger and I expect those numbers to drop 10% rather quickly. You have (4S-3850 25C).

With my 4S-3850 25C I took a lot of readings but I was experimenting with option #8. The one CC does not want us to mess with. I changed 13KHz switching rate to 26 KHz......I think the power and RPM was reduced, motor ran cooler but ESC started to work harder. That was my impression from my in-room testing with my wattmeter and tach (battery was drained 5% first).
I'm not so sure it is a great idea to change that setting from the factory default of 13 KHz.

5.5" props will have a huge penalty in climbing power. If you start with them (after cycling)you will be soooooooooo happy. But if you run the 6" props, well, there is no going back.

If you did buy the Castle link, Change your cutoff from auto lipoly to custom value for break in of the battery.
A good number will be 3.5-3.6V per cell to be conservative instead of 3V
3.5V/cell X 4 cells = 14.0V I've seen the ESC (occasionally) not accept some value, so go one or two tenths V higher or lower and it will take it.
Castle Link is so easy to use.

After break in, for regular fights, if you are only going to be running 4S, change the cutoff to 3.2V per cell= 12.8V cutoff, this will help your battery live longer. You'll only lose a few seconds of flight which your poor battery will spend too much time trying to bounce back from.

Make sure to run delay for your brake. When I maidened with no delay, I was getting a pitch down (nose down) condition every time I slammed the throttle shut at high speed. I changed to delay and that took care of it.

CC ESC manual says to not use hard brake on 4S or above. I used castle link to pick a custom value in between hard and soft. Soft brake is fine, so is no brake. It is a personal choice.

Use Std soft start to save your motor mount.

One of the extra settings through castle link (not found through the regular trans programming) is acceleration after the start option. Well, I went for 100% since all of my parts (same as yours) had some breathing room left. Default is not 100% and other people cannot change it without Castel Link.

Use 4 motor mount screws to attach motor. You may have to slot 2 of the bolt holes.

A very small amount of grinding will be needed to get the motor to sit all the way flush against the back of the motor mount. This is due to the raised area at the end of the motor containing/covering the bearing (I guess). Any way...Look at the 4 round plastic areas that the bolts go through. Look at the end of the curved area where they get closest to center of motor. They sit above the raised area of the motor. ****So grind a little off of the 4 plastic things so the motor will sit more properly.
First couple of times I grinded too much and made the plastic too weak. LESS IS MORE. I'm going out of my way to tell you to grind less and check often here. With bad description and loss for words I wrote this last paragraph…look at the end of the motor in mount and you'll see what I mean. This is true for all MEGAs as far as I know. It is a 30 second job that is best to spend 5 minutes on.

It is possible to be real close to stock C.G. points, but the more nose heavy (forward C.G.) the faster you should be able to fly. 1" forward is not a problem.

Co-pilot:
For Spektrum: see page 9 for dip switch positions if sensor is oriented as mine. Time saver for dip switch setup.
For Futaba: I suggest you send a PM to AeroRecon. He just setup his Futaba controlled Stryker with Co-pilot. He is a cool guy.
I used Double sided tape under the sensor instead of the Velcro.

Lengthen and widen the slots of the rear cover to allow more air to move through.
Open up the side air vents. I modified my scoop’s opening.
Land at higher speed and slide longer.
Use lots of up trim before launch and use full or near full throttle with a firm throw at 30-35 degrees up from Horizon, watch your hand. Don’t stare in awe, get back to the controls ASAP.
The awe comment is from what has happened to a few of us including me, My maiden launch and way too long a stare (without any up trim) caused a bent shaft.
Range check and don’t take annoying friends with you.
You can read some Co-pilot posts on page 67 and 69 between me, and AeroRecon.

Kevin, if you still have my phone number call whenever.



Gryphon

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 

Gryphon,
Thanks for all the pointers. I do have a castle link. I am very familiar with it....had it since they were released. I bring it with me whenever we race or fly. I have a laptop just for the field/track....sure is handy!
I plan to 3M the trailing egde on as you did. Did I do the mod you spoke of right? With ther exrta piece of CF in the back? BTW ryan's plane has the 2 pieces of cf inserted from the nose as you and I did.
I plan to seal the elevon gap as I would on my larger scale planes with ailerons. I will most likely use clear monocote for it. That way nothing gets through.
I just might order a futaba 2.4 system this weekend....not sure yet. If I do I will get the 12FG. I have way more uses for it than a 6 or 7 channel so I guess I will have to order some of the smaller rx's too. (not 100% yet on that) I am so pleased with the way 75mhz FM is working.....why change? I know the advantages as most of my cars/trucks are 2.4ghz but have yet to find a real need for it on my planes.....other than to break me...lol.

Well back to the table of love and money,
Kevin

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 

Hey gryphon,
Check out this pic of my added piece of cf in the tail of this bird. It eliminates about 75-80% of the flex of the rear when grabbing the trailing edge and applying pressure as if in a dive and pulling out. It is amaing how much it stiffened it up. Thought I'd share.

Oh yeah and I got the co-pilot mounted on the right side and the BEC on the left near the esc. You can peek at the rest of the layout and tell me what is wrong....

Kevin

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 

Do you mean the one under the motor mount, or the short one that goes from front to rear on the side of plane?

The other plane also shows a C.F. going through the handle area. Are you going to add that too yours? You can cover the front half of the handle area with Extreme tape, so the air does not go in it...that is if you guys feel that back half of the handle is fine for launch.

I launched a 50 O.Z. Stryker with only room for 2 fingers. It worked just fine. Your plane will not want to dip, just rise like there is no tomorrow right after the launch.

Often after the launch with barely any forward speed, I give full up elevator and go vertical and gain some serious speed while climbing vertical....I hear a lot of ooooohhs and ahhhhhs from others.

Open up the side air vents. Make sure that they are short so they cannot reach the Co-pilot computer. I will send you a sketch. Send me a reminder PM please.

Enough room under your rear cover to hold the ESC? You will gain a lot of room cutting the ESC wires short on back side, but I just could not get myself to cut them short, would of helped with added cooling air flowing there.
Are you going to 3M Extreme the hatches down like me or what is your plan?
Would be good to glass 1"(a guess) on sides of hatches so you can put tape on and off without pulling up little pieces of foam (after a few times). I have no experience with glassing.

I have to go off line for the rest of the night.

I see what looks to be 6mm Bullet connectors.....are they from NEU?


Gryphon

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 

I mean the ones that are showing in the first and second pic. They run front to back. I am not planning to run the middle piece as Ryan did. I may in the future if I feel it is needed.

I am planning to open the vents up as you did.
Planning to use some 30 minute epoxy on the hatch area to tape can be pulled off easily.
Did not want to cut wires for same reason as you. I may still do it...depends on my mood at the time.

Yes those are 6mm NEU connectors from stryker viking last year. I have a bunch of them now.

Is the opto-isolator pretty important? I will be using the berg rx with my 7cap for now. I haven't the courage to order the 12FG yet. I want to but all my collection is 75mhz.....thats a lot of rx's. I may opt for the 12FG PCM instead. Not sure. A lot to weigh.

Kevin

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 

Mr Mugen,

Regarding the OPTO Isolator, that is just one of 4 ways to disable the ESC’s BEC. But if it helps get more onboard generated noise (due to MOTOR and ESC) from getting to the receiver, all the more reason to use it.

It is not as needed on 2.4GHz in my opinion, but with other systems, well lets me say why not if we can afford it at $16. I do run it because it is cheap, small, light weight and makes me feel better.

See post #1339 on page 54 for other ways of disabling the ESC’s BEC.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_60...tm.htm#6612861
____________________
C.F.

I strongly suggest a 11”-12” C.F. strip between the two servos.

My next build will get 2 long strips side by side (not far apart) from left to right. The two diagonal ones going back. Then the piece to connect the two diagonals ones as we discussed (under the mount).

Since there is no room for that 2’ long piece right now, and most important part is the closer we get to center of plane. You can at least add the 1’ piece between the servos.
12” X0.48 grams/inch= almost 6 grams of C.F., add weight of epoxy/glue, should be roughly 1/3 o.z. total.

***I would have run the C.F. under the motor mount as far back (to make it longer ) as possible while making sure that it would clear the rear 4 screws of the mount.

Most of the stress on the wing is being handled by that main 2’ C.F. going from side to side because the ends of the wing want to flap up and down at high speed. Also stress on it when you give full up or down elevator. Stress on it when you bank at real high speed and all this excess weight want to just push down the center. Stress on it each time your plane survives a bad crash.

C.F. frays a little at a time with repeated flexing. King_Paul reuses his C.F. and he has often found C.F. frayed……guess where?...........RIGHT AT THE CENTER.

Did I make a case yet for your ULTRA SPEED STRYKER getting that last 12” C.F.?

Let me get tooooooo bold. Do it for me (hey, I’m not supposed to say that, o.k. I’ll take it back).

I will add your mod to my next plane. The one I am working on now, is one of my older Strykers and it has a lot of C.F. strips on top of wing going from front to rear…there is zero flex in that direction. I’ll go find the pic and post it. Your method is quicker and cleaner.
_____________________
Radio

I believe I heard of those radios once or twice. I don’t keep up with new radios or Futaba. But those are in the $1000 to $1500 range I think. Wide range because I’m not sure. Without servos in the lower range I guess..

Here is an option till you get ready for your favorite Futaba.

Sprektrum DX6i. $180 does not come with servo, so you save on those too. You have 81MGs.

It does come with 2 receivers that connect to each other and mount in 2 different locations and orientations, 4 antennas just like the DX7’s AR7000 receiver. It is the 6ch AR6200 receiver.

It is nothing like the DX6. It is an all new 6ch 2.4GHz DSM2.
Just the radio, and the receiver….just what you need at only $180.
***** I do not trust any of the single receiver 2.4GHz units. I trust only AR6200 and AR7000.

So if there is a 12 ch radio in your future, and you do not need a 7ch radio at$350 right now, then this $180 2.4 GHz radio and perfect receiver with no servos seems like a good choice to consider.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=SPM6600

It says due early Feb, that is 2 weeks. Enough time for you guys to finish your 2 Strykers.
Again it was just a thought.
Spektrum started with DX6, learned a few hard lessons and now after a great radio like DX7, they are putting out DX6i. It should be a solid radio. It even has rudder D/R not bad for a 6 ch radio.

If Futaba has such a unit with 2 separate receivers mounted in different locations and 4 antennas, take a look at that.
__________________________
Change the cutoff voltages of the both ESCs to custom values before you forget.

Few guys asked me for my DX7 values of dual rate and expo as a starting point. PM me if you want them. Nothing special, it just takes a little bit of stress away.

*** I do recall changing the Co-pilot travel adjust values in the transmitter from +/- 100% to +/- 125%. There was some reference in the manual that I may need to do it, and I ended up needing to do it EVERY TIME.
___________________________
3M Tape job.

I run two strips under the fuse from front to rear right down center. They are over lapped 1”, so it becomes like 3” wide. I cut open the holes for battery cooling air and handle cutouts, I mean cut the tape.

I cover my C.F. (The 2’ C.F.’s tape is extended to end of wing, wrapped around and cut following the line of the tape job of the leading edge with a hobby knife. This helps reduce unwanted flex up of the wings).

I cover my servo wires and the servos. (Double sided tape between back side of servo and foam).

T.E.

Leading edge of wing.

Motor mount area.

Vertical fins are taped on sides and in front. I cut the bottom of vertical fin so they do not extend below the foam. Line up with top of foam. I want any impact due to landing or stall to be absorbed by a larger are of the whole plane. Otherwise at very minimum the foam tabs at rear will break off.

I tape down all hatches.


****I almost forgot, there is one more piece of 3M tape.
The way that the tape above covering the 2’ C.F. prevents flex in the up direction of the wing, I prevent the downward flex of the wing as follows:

Well a picture is worth a thousand words right? You’ll get both.

In post #2 see picture #1 and 4

In post #3 see picture #3.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_46...A-zilla/tm.htm

In those pics look at the long tape on top of wing which goes from side to side. It is lined up with the back of the motor mount and extends to end of wing, wraps around and it is cut on bottom of wing following the line of the leading edge’s tape.

Notice that one of these pics shows that same tape going under the fins. There is no foam sidewall for that section of the fin. I cut them off flush with the body, so I could run the 3M Extreme tape across the wing. Later on I glued them back in. First 2 planes I used CA to glue them back in place. I learned that I should not label the 4 pieces using a pen because CA makes the ink run. Use pensile or arrange them on paper in order.
But in my second such build the 4 foam side walls used to get ripped off when I wanted to put on a fresh piece of 3M tape on top to hold the fins. Or when I wanted to remove fins for long distance transport.

**Next plane I’ll glue the 4 side walls down in place on top of the 3M tape below with epoxy.

**On last bird I extended the tunnel opening under the motor mount and out the back for extra cooling (the width of 3 pens on top half of foam). If you are going to do that, it will be easier to get it done before this long tape across the top on wing. If this bird gets a Duct Fan In future, this opening can be used to run ESC wires through to get to back side of motor(mounts backwards).

If I did a bad job of description, ask me questions.
_____________________
On the link above I used 4-40 rods, but my “Z” bend pliers could not bend those large rods so nicely.
2-56 is more than good enough…your call….wait a minute, you said something about ball ends…aaahhhh.

Given whatever throw you want, it is best to use holes further up on control horn and servo arm. With rod further up and away from the foam, a given amount of slop (if any) will have a smaller effect of unwanted control surface movement. If you wanted to be extra precise.
Shoot for a little extra drag at ends of rods compared to any extra play.


Later buddy,
Gryphon

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 

Hi guys,

I've been putting this off but I need to get it handled.


http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_50...17/key_/tm.htm

Look at post 422,that is my old-old bird which is going to be resurrected with addition of C.F. and also wooden T.E./wooden elevon.

This will be run on 1500-1600 W.

The C.F. on top of the wing is the HALF weight Strips at 0.241 grams/inch which comes as (2) 2' per pack.

I took each of the 2' pieces and cut them into 6 pieces per each side of wing.

I made each of the 6 sections gradually longer.

I got lucky, several of them made contact with C.F. below and barely became flush with top of wing. I guess I could have grinded the tips a little if they were to stick up.
_____________________________

HELP


**Before mounting the Wooden T.E. I need to cutoff the C.F. T.E. plus 5/16" of foam including the 5/16" off the end of those 12 small C.F. strips.......in a straight line using my Dremel I guess.

Any better ideas to help me with making these two cuts in a straight line? Any tips? Should I buy a metal ruler and put the Dremel against it or whatever?

I appreciate any help you guys can give me. I've been putting this thing off too long and wouldn't mind a maiden flight in first half of Feb.


Thank you all in advance,

Gryphon

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 

Hey gryphon, I used a metal rule and a new blade on my xatco knife. Making sure to draw it smoothly and keeping it 90 degrees to the fuse. It went well. I had to sand a little on the first one but it went well. I am not sure if there is a faster methid or a better one but I wouldn't mind knowing if there is.

Kevin

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 

Mr. Mugen,

See the pic. I need to cut through 6 C.F. strips on each side. Not so sure if the hobby knife can do it.

Are you sure?
In the above post, I left the word C.F. out and just edited it...sorry.


Gryphon

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 

Oh yeah...lol. I guess not then. It looks like a job for the band saw or a dremel with cut off wheel. I would use a band saw if you have access to one. That way it all stays 90'd.

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 

Mr. Mugen,

Given that I'm new in town and don't know anyone, Dremel with cutoff wheel will have to do.

I could always take off a little extra from each C.F. Then apply epoxy to wooden T.E.
Before Epoxy dries I can use the 3M tape to change the angle and install height minutely as needed. As you know that 3M tape will also help retain the T.E. during flight.


Thanks for the help. Hey I feel better now.


Note: The wooden T.E. and Elevon is going to be a donation from another Stryker. so the two parts are already glued together.
I don’t feel very comfortable running 3M tape just on top of and bottom of the wooden T.E.
Soooooooooooo
I'm going to cutaway somewhere down the hinge line to get a piece of 3M tape squeezed through. Since I have 4 hinges, I will do this in 3 places. So that will be 3 tapes looped through and then I will run a length of 3M tape across the top of T.E. Another piece across the bottom.
Knowing that there are 3 pieces of tape looping from top to bottom and securely holding the T.E. in place will make me feel good.

If I make too much of a mess in the hinge line so I can pass the 3 tapes through, I will use hinge tape or econocoat per your future instructions to seal the hinge line.

Let me see what I can do first.

It is 10 times easier to tape the T.E. with no elevon glued to it....OBVIOUSLY.

Time to go take the old wooden T.E. and wooden Elevon off the other Stryker. I guess I will use cutoff wheel for initial removal and then .....some way for getting the Epoxy off of the wooden T.E.
Use of hobby knife to remove 3M tape from the hinge line.

HEY.........HEY.......wait a minute; What if I can save the 3M tape of the wooden elevon set? I can then over lap a fresh piece of tape to it and not have to mess with that PERFECT hinge line?...............I must try at least!!!!

I'll keep you posted.

Going to get started at 7:30 p.m.....right now. I can hear that 2000W now..........whoops I mean 1500. Shhhhhhhhh


Gryphon

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 

Well how is everyone??

Sounds like your pretty busy Gryph. Good luck with that rebuild.

I have my Darkside Stryker all ready to go now. Too bad the weather turned to hell here again.
So no maiden yet.

I increased the ventilation like you suggested Gryph, cut channels next to esc, one side is really deep and the co-pilot computer cable goes inside it. Also I dremmeled every other slot in the back hatch into a huge oval hole and cut the end round. pics of my Stryker at end.
[img][/img][img][/img]

I will maiden with a 6x4 on six cells as I feel ( no wattmeter) 6x5.5 is too much for my Tp 2070's
I did find some 3000 25 c batteries on ebay that I won for 51.00 each (not too proud of these considering everything else I have in this build) hopefully they will work well. At 8 oz. each and the sizes being good to fit in my fuse I had to try them. They are Hecell batteries. I Will still be buying better batteries if I need them though.

I was flying my old F27c at work the other day and finnaly got her trimmed in and flying perfect (full acceleration just straight as an arrow) when I did something stupid and bent the motor shaft [&o].
So now I am in the market for a new motor for that stryker too.
I have the E-flight 60 amp pro esc in that one and want to use my 3 cell Tp 2070's singularly in that Stryker. I want to end up somewhere arond 40 amps.
Has anyone tried the jeti phasor 15-3 [link=http://www.newcreations-rc.com/ProductDetails.aspx?itemnumber=JEP153]Jeti Phasor 15/3[/link] it is a 36 mm motor the limit is supossedly35 amps but I know some motors are ok to over amp. Looks pretty good on Motorcalc. It has a 5 mm shaft like my Mega ( I dont want to bend anymore shafts).

On my way home from work the other day I saw an old friend (he really is old ha ha) flying at the beach.
I stoped to check it out and guess what he was flying..

Thats right a STRYKER

Was a bit different than ours though... Heres some pics



That thing was light maybe 10-14 oz. tops.
Depron elevons, foam hatch, and a quick change motor mount (in case he wants more power)
The speed was ony 30 35 mph (guessing) but it flew beautifully..

I love how you can do anything with the Stryker from 50+ oz rocket to 10 oz park flyer

Neat stuff:D

See Ya, JDXX

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 

JDXX,

Pics look nice, I like what you did with the vents on the rear.

Maybe we can work on more battery cooling as needed, if needed in future.
We know you have plenty of room for air to exit, so at most it'll be incoming air.
Look at my pics and check out my front scoop.
I took the bottom of the scoop opening and removed the rear 1/2" or 1/3" from the floor going forward (bad description).
See if you can figure out what I mean from the pics.
From the top you can put in a finger pointing straight down, actually two fingers side by side due to width of scoop.

Look at 3rd pic and see my fingers in the scoop.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_60..._9/key_/tm.htm

Look at 4th pic here viewed from the top of scoop.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_50...17/key_/tm.htm

I think that may let in more air while looking stock. Consider that as you see fit.
_________________________
**************************************************
Forget everything else.

I think there has been a misunderstanding regarding the prop to use for cycling.

6X3 for 6S is on the high side for level flight during the initial battery cycling.
Forget 6X4 on 6S. If you believe that part throttle uses fewer amps, that is not true and you need to read a great article by Castle Creations. Part throttle is still full amps, it just gets switched on and off fast.
Avoid excessive climbing with even 6X3 on 6S, amps will jump up. Launch hard and then stay level when you get up high.

I'm sorry if I forgot that the batteries are already used or not. If batteries are already used then use whatever you want, 6X4 will be good to keep speed to 100-105MPH range on 6S. Till you are trimmed out and used to the plane.

6X4 will be too high to cycle new 6S battery(s).

You can cycle them individually as 3S while swinging a larger prop and it'll be easier to choose a perfect size.

If you run 3S to cycle a new battery go with 7X4 for easier launch, or 6X4 if you can give a harder throw, climbing will not be so great.
6X4 will be on weak side. Either way better do full throttle launch and watch your hand. 55+ MPH with either prop.

Have some up elevator trim before hand to aid in launch.

6X5.5 will be a little on high side for 3S cycle and can fly at 75 MPH.
If you run 7X5 then avoid a lot of climbing.

It is not about performance or racing while cycling, so just fly level.

You can fly at full throttle with those props.

Land early to avoid cutoff. With auto-lipoly cutoff, do your best to avoid a restart of motor on first flight or two and stick the landing if you can do it safely without restart.

Land early before auto-lipoly cutoff happens at a mere 3V per cell for new battery.

*** I see CC80A under hatch; if you bought the Castle link then change cutoff voltage to costum value on 3.6V per cell
If 3S: 3X3.6=10.8V or any value close to it.
If 6S: 6X3.6=21.6V or any value close to it.

Do this for 2 flights per 3S battery, or 2 flights total as 6S. Then change cutoff to roughly 3.2V per cell for best battery life.

Let the battery cool down before re-charging.

Some where I read that it is not good to charge Lipoly in real cold surroundings. It was by A123 cells who are in competition with Lipoly, or maybe the FMA site???? I don't know the hard facts on that.


Good luck,

Gryphon

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 

Gryph,

Thanks for the reply,


batteries are all cycled ready to go!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

New cheapo batteries 25c 3000 will be here next week.
I have 6x4 6x5.5 6.5x5 6.5x6 6.5x6.5 7x6 8x6 and 8x8 props
How about the 6.5 props for breaking in the new batteries on 3 cell's

I will check out your pics on the scoop mod thanks.

I still might maiden on three cells with the 7x6 prop with or maybe the 8x6

JDXX

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 

Oh yeah and by the way,

This is my first Stryker build and I consider it a temporary fuse.
I will start building the next fuse next week.
Thanks to all of you guys for your awsume build pic's and info/input.
My next build will be a collaboration of these ideas (and some of my own).

I will document it thoroughly.

I have studied these forums extensivly (well sorta) and there is a ton of usefull information here.

I think we should get it organized into some sort of Stryker Bible.
I know it is still evolving but some of the basic building tech's are the standard, elevons, minimum carbon fiber reinforcements, tapeing and ect....

There is good info for all these things and more in these pages but it is spread far.


Just my two cents, JDXX

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 

JDXX,

6.5X5 is only a little high for 3S-3000 break in, should be easy launch and low 70's speed range. You'll be happy.


Sounds like you are set.

Read your Co-pilot manual again as far as trim setting with or without it ...etc.

You need to do a single field calibration before flight.

Go far in the middle of the field away from parking lot and other people to do this calibration.


Later,
Gryphon

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 

Yeah about that,

Gryph do you use the auto trim feature on the co-pilot?

Everyone else??


thanks,
JDXX

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 

JDXX,

I meant as far as how to trim the plane. I would guess that you would want the trim the plane with the auto trim feature off, and the co-pilot off as well.

Double check the manual.

Auto trim feature on or off depends on your taste. Since I fly with the Co-pilot in the on position it makes no difference. I'm not sure where I left it.

On my large 120 sized plane I use auto trim, which tames the full symmetrical wing for me when the co-pilot is off. I fly that one with Co-pilot off.

I think to start, it makes more sense to "not" use Auto trim with the co-pilot in the off position, so you can dial in the trans trim.

If you want to normally fly with the co-pilot off, then you can see how you like the auto trim feature....but later on.
If you want to fly with co-pilot in the on position, then Autotrim on or off makes no difference any way.

Gryphon

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 

JDXX,

I had left out the word "not". I would not use Auto trim initially.
I edited the above.

Gryphon

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 

Thanks again Gryph

That makes sense to me.
I will first fly the plane with co-pilot off all the way and then after I get her dialed in I will play with and decide what I want to do with co-pilot settings.

JDXX

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 

JDXX,

Have auto trim set to off when you are in the "initial setup", but when you get out of that "setup", no reason why you cannot set the gain to 30-40%.

That is assuming that the co-pilot is on an extra ch and you can turn it on and off.

This way with co-pilot in off position it will not interfere with your trans setting, but should you get in trouble and are about to crash and get confused, it may be able to help you and save your plane.

Would be a good idea to give the Co-pilot a quick test up high. Fly level, turn it on, dip one wing to side and let go of trans stick to see if it straightens out or not. If not turn it off. If it does level you, great. Then climb and let go of stick and see if it levels out. Turn it off.
You can do this on 2nd flight or after you trim your plane with co-pilot off.

When testing and flying with Co-pilot see if you like more or less gain.
When you land, give the dial a slight increase or decrease to fine tune the gain setting.

____________

Mechanical trim adjustment: (not co-pilot related) We all have to do this.

With Co-pilot off and the plane trimmed out, land. Note the exact location of each elevon carefully. Now you know where the elevons need to be to fly level, so set your(2) trims next to your trans stick to neutral position, and then mechanically increase or decrease the length of each rod to put the elevons back in the same exact position that you found them right after landing. Obviously trans will need to in the on position so does the receiver.

Fly back up and the plane should fly level with trans trims in middle position. Realistically you will still need minor trim adjustment, but less than first time to get the plane to fly level again (Still with co-pilot off). Land. Note the exact position of each elevon. Reset trims to middle for elevator and aileron just like last time. Mechanically change the two rods’ lengths to put elevons back to your noted position.

Fly back up. After 2 or 3 mechanical adjustments the plane will fly level with trans trims set to middle or a couple of clicks away.
________________

If you test the Co-pilot by turning it on and off each time after re-trimming in air, you'll have a good idea to increase or decrease the gain with each landing.


If you don't mess with co-pilot, and finish the mechanical adjustment, you can then do a few flights followed by quick landings and re-adjustment of the gain setting.

All this can be done and over within one or two charges of the battery.

____________________

IF you plan to fly with co-pilot off, you can set gain to a higher setting for quicker leveling. If you plan to fly with it on, then you need a lower setting so you can be comfortable flying with it and not sense that it is fighting you so much to re-level flight. Lower gain setting will increase the time it takes to make the plane level.
Find yourself a happy medium with flying in on position, how it effects your flying and the time that it takes to level your plane.


I hope you found this post helpful.

Gryphon

RE: F27 STRYKER -Way Past the Limits Part 6 -Go deeper in to the Dark Side...
 

Thanks for all the info here I was able to refit my stryker with a new motor. I went with the mega 16/25/2. We just did a doppler measurement, best pass was 120mph! The thing was screaming. [8D]

I had my co-pilot installed also with the gain set way down. Otherwise the thing would fight me too much on a low level high-speed pass.