Spastic

did you ever try this?
i love mine!
flies very well and is all coro, except the yardstick stringers in the fuse, and the spar which is foam and yardstick.
again lots more pics on my site and plans are avalible through Chris at
http://users3.ev1.net/~cdjump/main/

Ten-Man

My Feedback: (2)

Hey spad stick no I haven't tried that but it looks interesting. What is the all up weight? Most all coro planes I have seen are a bit heavy. This type of plane needs to be very light to meet its true potential. Let me ask you this are you having any problems with the coro flexing on your tail surfaces? Some of my combat planes with a small elevator were flexing badly at high speed. I actually lost one airplane to a high speed pull out. I added some stiffners and problem solved but that is only a small elevator. Funfly planes have huge control surfaces so I wonder how effective it would be. Most of my bad flex problems were when it was really hot outside you could actually see the coro drooping and that was on only a 12" surface. Heat seems to make the coro like playdough or something. I don't think I could get away without stiffners and then your just adding more and more tail weight to the thing. What do you think?

Shortman

My Feedback: (21)

You guys with coroplast can make some great planes, that thing looks sweet.

JIVE TURKEY

Ten-Man, we've got "similar" interest's here, except for the following; I want to do a fun-fly that from appearance and performance looks/flies EXACTLY like a built-up balsa plane (at-least), that means NO coro-plast! I'm not trying to offend spad or spad-composite builders, I LOVE SPAD!!!! I've got a basement FULL of coroplast, I know about Harbor sales, Tatoo, Kraut, etc. etc. etc., . I think your plane is AWESOME! I just think it can be done w/an all wood exterior in order to look as beautifull as an all wood plane, and still be as light, if not lighter!

I've been down the road of R&D'ing a coro fun-fly and admire the HECK out of what chris has done (AWESOME site, Chris! It's now a part of my favorite's list! Your a spad GENIUS! I plan to use some of your Ideas on other planes, and who know's, I might build another coro F-F. I WILL build a spa3d soon!)

Right now, though, I'm trying to figure out this foam core-to look and perform like a wood funfly-but be easier to build-technology, and am more than willing to buy cf-tape, if that's what it takes to stiffen up a light foam-core structure! I am a fan of of cf tubes, but I don't think there neccesary in this application. However I might be totally wrong about the way this "should" be done, and am counting of all you guy's with the same desire as me, out there in computer land, that is to; SPEED UP PRODUCTION OF A FUN-FLY (I'm talkin profiles, i.e.;morris/omp/etc.) TO MATCH FACTORY PERFORMANCE/LOOKS, VIA FOAM-CORE STRUCTURES, EITHER COVERED OR PAINTED, OR ANY OTHER MEANS ANYONE SEE'S FIT TO MEET THE ABOVE CRITERIA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I'm truly sorry, Hroachen for "taking-over" this thread, and will start a new thread if you think were not "gellin'" about what a quick-building fun-fly should be, I NEED TO KNOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ten-man, keep up the work on your project, It's looking AWESOME!!!!! I just wish your wings had some sort of sheeting on them so you didn't have to use low-temp covering or worry about dinging em' up and still be light-enough, but that's just me

hroachen

No need to apologize, I never had any preconceived notion of where this thread should go...

PaulSwany

My Feedback: (45)

A good weight for a bonned up Profile is 20 oz... That's what the sledges I've been building come out to ..... Although Up to 28 oz wouldn't be bad....

akahoverit

My Feedback: (2)

Hey BEN, you could have built a kit with all the time you've spent on this thread lol. Did you see omp is gonna start arf'ing their kits?

Ten-Man

My Feedback: (2)

OK jiveturkey, I plan to work on the project some tommorrow as I have the day off work. There is no need to add CF anything because it's allready plenty stout. I also would like to have some sheeting but would rather use something cheaper than balsa if possible. I just don't know what? It would have to be durable yet light I haven't really found the stuff that fits the bill. If you want light put balsa sheeting from the wing TE back on the fuse. This should lighten it up considerably. Well time to stop typing and start working. I think this plane is what were both after so lets get to work on it.

AFSalmon

My Feedback: (3)

Here's the first prototype FFYAK54P from OMP. This new plane is designed using the same proven performance criteria from the FF540P as far as airfoils, and other design criteria. But there's one big change: This one has a foam core fuselage! The bare bones weight of the airframe is 21 oz naked. That's right in line as the other 40 size profiles so I think this is goinf to be a real viable option for construction of the smaller models. The Yak 54 offers slightly different performance characteristics than the Edge as far as stall and knife edge performance so I think it's going to be a good compliment to the fun fly lineup. I'll have this one covered and test flown by this weekend and we'll get kits available soon. Anybody have any sources for good cnc foam wire cutters?

Mike

Balsageek

Build your own, especially for something that small. I used to have the plans to one bookmarked. I'll see if I can find it again.

Balsageek

Here's the link: http://www.8linx.com/cnc/ I've always wanted to build one of these, never had the time. I'm sure that if a guy looked hard enough, you could find the componets at a much more reasonable price than what's on that site (I've always wanted to see how cheaply I could do it). From what I can tell, this looks like a production quality machine using easy to find materials.

Here's a link to a reasonably priced controller http://www.members.cox.net/ap1fuels/prod03.htm At that price, a whole cutter could be built for under 300.

THe only drawback I can see to this as well as any other CNC machine, is the "inside work" (the wing hole). You'd have to manually insert the wire and ensure alignment.

Ten-Man

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks Paul for those weights on your sledge that is just what I was looking for. My all up bare bones fuse weighs 28oz that's with covering on the tail (allready started to cover it) I could easily drop another 3 or 4 oz out of the fuse. I could just cover it with some balsa intsead but that wouldn't stay with my ultra cheap theme. Can't wait to get this bad boy in the air and see how it flys. Thanks again for your reply Paul.

AcroJo

My Feedback: (1)

Jive, Sorry for the delay, I've been away. I would think that the foam would be considered as just a "form" for the veneer laminate with the ability to cut lightning holes in the foam before lamination. Yes, you would need a wood TE for hinges and a LE would be up to individual needs, but I am debating the need for a spar. The foam "form" is what seperates the laminate sheets, giving the shape strength. Increase the distance between two parallel sheets and they become stronger. I forget if it were you that inquired about useing just the "phenolic" backer. It is available as just that, but it may be too brittle on its own. Phenol and formaldehyde are among the most basic building blocks in polymer chemistry. The polymer acts as a matrix for binding together substrates such as wood; paper; fibers (e.g. fiberglass); or particles to form a highly crossed-linked composite. Still havn't found the time to research "depron" for control surfaces, anyone familiar with this? Joe

PaulSwany

My Feedback: (45)

If you're looking for quick and dirty... and stronger that an standard fuse profile... Take a look at my burrito.... Has a CF tube mounted to a ply engine pod with a upper and lower fuse piece..... Extremely fast to build... very light and take a killer beating and comes right back...

PM me for info on the kits.

JIVE TURKEY

akasmartypants...er, I mean hoverit did I mention I'd rather fly (or read/reply to rcu forum post's) rather than build! You've got to have priorities, and time doesn't allow for everthing (read; building a profile with a gazillion sticks of wood)! By the way, wednesday when we had high wind warnings and gusts of 50+ mph, I flew!!!!! What a blast! Only a few holes in the wing after I landed (whew!), shut the engine off, walked over to pick the knife up, and the wind flipped it over resulting in soybean stalks pokin' thru[] EZ fix.

I'm all for arf's, but would rather speed up production than shell out extry clams.

JIVE TURKEY

Mike, this is half of what I'm talkin' about and think all you profile lovers are seeing a major revoulution in the making here!

Now let's push this foam core idea a little further out to the edges of the plane (read; wings!)![sm=RAINFRO.gif]

JIVE TURKEY

Joe, don't sweat the delay, you've probably not got anything else to do! (what I'm talkin' about!) I think you might be right about no spar, just a lam. wing core? What do the rest of ya'll (to quote a famous Clampit)df think?


Come to think of it, phenolic is glue[sm=spinnyeyes.gif] (I should have paid better attention in school, like the guy's I saw laying down asphalt at work) I was thinking of the m.d. in m.d.o. plywood (medium density overlay?) But what I'm getting at is some sort of light/strong enough veneer. How about silkspan saturated with water-based polyurathane (I should probably stick with wood)?


Another idea>>>> cut a foam core, than cut out the back outside corners from the spar back, except about 6" of the center section (full cord). Than build up these "outside back corners" with a few balsa ribs slotted into the front third foam edge?......I dunno.......but what I DO know, is that someone who "builds planes" is going to figure out that there is some serious interest in this concept (or this thread would be dead a long time ago, I see another one has been started and have yet to read it) and start some serios R&D (hint, hint)!

To repeat Joe, "depron anyone?"

jive

Kenny R

from what experience i have with foam wings....and im no expert. You dont have to have a spar in a foam wing.

The no spar wing works well with a thinner airfoil where the foam will not be cut out between the "ribs". a thin airfoil doesnt benefit a whole lot from cutting between the ribs because the foam you remove weighs very little.

On the other handwith the thicker airfoils and exaggerated chord we are using on our profiles benefit greatly by removing the foam between the "ribs" its starts taking oz's off. You can loose enough weight getting rid of the foam to put in a spar and still be light and strong.

I did build one wing (funfly type) done all of the cutting out and used no spar. The wing was plenty strong enough to throw all my moves on (couldnt break it in flight)except for the nice move of trying a somersault landing.

You might want to see the other thread i shouldnt have started (didnt see this one) with a little more wing detail.

Kenny R

The wing on this plane is foam core with no cutouts and no spar. The airfoil isnt really thick enough or the chord large enough for this type plane.....my opinion. This plane flies more like a scale model, the wing loading is kinda high.The newest model has more chord and a thicker airfoil.

The plane weighs 4lb 1oz. Not breaking any records but very competitive with stick built weights.

JIVE TURKEY

Maybe not an expert, more like a VISIONARY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!![sm=idea.gif]

And it's o.k., you deserve your'e own thread, IMO the thread you started will go down in imfamy(?)!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


*******************ATTENTION**********************


******KENNYROY HAS DONE IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!***************


***************CHECK(period)-OUT HIS THREAD(period)!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!AWE(period)-SOME(period)!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
(what's up with me spelling period?)-RIGHT-NOW(period)!!!!!!!!!!!!(must be something to do with Fred G Sanford (period)!!)


Seriously, though, mark this on your calander; TODAY, NOV. 18th, 2003, A REVOLUTION IN PROFILE BUILDING DESIGN, HAS BEEN UNCOVERED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!....................KEN NYROY'S STRONG/LIGHTWEIGHT FOAM-CORE FUSE/FOAM-CORE WING DESIGNED PROFILE FUN-TO-FLY R/C MODEL AIRPLANE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

JIVE TURKEY

Check out the weights these planes KENNYROY build's are comming in at !!!!!!!!!!! and here's a plus, they're strong. lightweight, fast/easy to build, are coro-plast free, carbon-fiber free, and BEAUTIFULL !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I KNEW IT COULD BE DONE, THANKS KENNYROY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

WHAT DO YOU MEAN YOU'RE NOT BREAKING ANY RECORDS? RECORD'S ARE BEING SHATTERED HERE!!!!!!!!!!




it's too bad i already have a hero.

JIVE TURKEY

Here's what depron is; http://depronusa.com/


Maybe sheet it with 1/16" balsa on 1 or 2 sides? Than punch lightening holes in it? Add balsa blocks to control horn area before sheeting? Obviously cap edges w/balsa. Or just cut 3/4 lb. per cu ft. white foam to 1/4" thickness and do the same?

AcroJo

My Feedback: (1)

Yo, Jive. Thanks for passing on the results of your research on "Depron" It's nice to just click on links. I'm going to order some to check it out. One thing concerns me on the spec sheet. It says temperature range at 60 to 70 degrees, I wonder if it softens up in the sun? If its no good, I'll staple it up for a ceiling in my shop. Thanks again, Joe

JIVE TURKEY

Joe, it seems to be used a lot in park flyers, so it must hold up outside o.k.!



Jive T.

Kenny R

I have never used depron in glow fuel airplanes. But its great for electric. Ever flew a 4.5oz airplane that will do anything a 40 size profile will do? 2mm depron 340 mah li-poly battery with an gws-ips motor, weve got a huge freezer to fly in from a old food storage warehouse that isnt used anymore. Great for those cold windy winter days that are coming