What hinges do you like for 3D?

I've been using CA hinges for years on profiles, but I've had trouble getting 45 degrees of throw without binding, unless I left a large gap.

While searching for hinges on Tower's site I saw these. They are designed for CA or epoxy. Ya, right- I thought. Turns out I had two of them in a sample pack of Great Planes hardware. I cut slots in a piece of 3/8" balsa, put some thick CA in the slot and on the hinge, and shoved it in. 10 minutes later I tried to pull it out. Then I attached a vice-grips and tried again. Pulling teeth would have been easier! To my amazement, the pin started to bend and then one half where the pin rides in split. So I tried it again. Same result! I'm going to give them a try on my Laser 3D.

Chuck

Looks like a good hinge to me ,as long as it is the appropiate size for your plane. You can't argue with success as far as gluing is concerned. Sporty

I typically use Giant Scale CA hinges on my 40 size Fun-Flys. Be sure to taper the trailing edge just as you would do to the leading edge of the control surface. Also when you insert the CA hinges, be sure to pivot the control surface a full +/- 90 degrees to set the approriate spacing. Also ensure that you seal your seams to help prevent flutter. This works for me!

Larger Fun-Flys than 40-size, I sometimes use Robart Pin Hinges. I typically roughen the hinge with 80 grit sand paper. I use 30-minute epoxy thinned with alchol and then I mix in milled Glass. The alchol ensure that the epoxy penetrates into the wood, and the milled glass helps hold the plastic hinge.

If you decide to use the GP hinges that you show in your post, I strongly suggest that you pin them using round tooth picks. (Ask me how I know this )

I hope that this information helps you out.

I took some pictures of the hinges after the test. Pinning would not have helped in this case. I used to pin hinges in the seventies, with toothpicks. Used to blow epoxy into the slots with a flattened straw. What a mess.

These hinges are designed for CA or epoxy. They have a rough exterior. I wouldn't have believed it had I not done this test. I used thick CA.

Here's the tech notes from Tower-
FEATURES: The specially textured nylon helps fast setting CA's or epoxy get a strong grip for fast lasting bonds.
It is shaped to insure bond strength at (3) critical points:
1- At the edges 2- On the surfaces 3-Through holes

Customer will not have to wait for epoxy to cure before moving to next step.
Special roughened plastic material designed to be installed w/CA or epoxy.

Exactly how did you hold the wood piece while pulling the hinge?

I used my left hand.

I will pick up a package of these for sure. I have seen these but didn't realize they would be for CA. Thanks for the post and pics.....Brian

I have these hinges ready to go into a fun tiger ARF that i recovered.. good to see they can be CA'd in! Will i get fogging on my pretty clear red monocote tho?

OZDAVE,

You should not get any fogging if you use thick CA. Don't try to use these hinges like the paper/plastic CA hinges. The CA won't wick in on these very well.

Here's how I plan to do it.

Just assemble the parts and make sure everything works, then remove the hinges.

Lube the hinge bearing with vaseline or silicone grease. :idea:

Glue in one side at a time to one surface, such as an aileron. Then put glue in the slots in the wing, and a little bit on each hinge, and then insert the aileron hinges into the wing. Let the thick CA cure for a while. Then move the serface to free it up.

It's always handy to have a bottle of CA debonder, or some acetone handy to clean up any mess. This will also remove the "fog" when using thin CA. It also is good to have if you want to un-glue the X-Acto knife from your fingertips! (yes, I did that)

HAhah nice work with the Xacto..
I will do the hinging of the tailplane of my Fun Tiger tonight and I'll let you know how it goes

Cheers,

Hmm, looks good... i may use those on my next project. I'm not particularly fond of the CA hinges. They're ok, but not as free as i'd like, especially at large deflection angles.

Thanks for the info, and pictures (worth a thousand words).

Hey guys,

Just my two cents here but with the types of planes you all are flying(40 sized profiles) i have found that a sewn on hinge is the best bet too get a really strong hinge that will allow very free movement at more than 90 degres throw!! I have been flying these type of planes for a long time now and also fly the stick and boom unlimited competition planes and i ONLY trust sewn on hinges now. I have had too many CA type hinges break and i have not found any easier type of hinge to do that gives so little resistance when moving the control surface. Plus they are free....always a plus
Steve

i dont think i understand what you mean steve, could you maybe post a picture or describe the hinge?

Alright another Competition Flyer among us. Wow you guys just came out of the woodwork. Glad to see all these fellows show up in this forum. Should be a great source of info only a small group knew of, or had knowledge of . Now to pry the secrets from you all.

GW

Steve;
Is using a method known to U/C Combat and U/C flyers. Using a Dacron thread(Sorta like tippet line for Fly fishing) you can sew your aileron and Elevator on. It's basically a criscross Over under on the hinge line. Gives virtually Max deflection very strong and the technique is not that hard to master.

Would kevlar thread work?

It might? I have never used anything but Dacron. But I see no reason for it not to work.

Hey guys,

Sorry i dont have any pics or a way to put some in here. Scorpionjack is correct in wut he was saying though. It is a figure eight sewing around the control surface and the structure....it is very easy to master after you have seen it done and i can do them almost as fast as putting in a ca type hinge when i get on a roll...kevlar thread will work. I use string tie which is used in general aviationfor tying wires off in bundles through out the aircraft. I have also used old bow string which if you have an archery shop in your area then you should be able to get all the used string you want fo free. These examples are all more than strong enough because i have used dental floss when i was in a pinch....lol and it held up fine.
I will try and see if i can come up with a picture of a completed hinge for you guys.
Good luck,
Steve

HEre's the fun tiger extra arf recovered in monokote =] ready to fly but im out of fuel !! Featuring hinges as above in this thread.. I'll let everyone know if they fail *argh hope not*

You can spot my face on the aileron if you look carefully haha

Another pic

Here is a picture of a U/C Combat tail that is stitched, atleast you'll get the idea.

How do you seal the gaps using this method?

No I have never had to as the aircraft isn't for speed it's for low level 3D maneuvers. On U/C Combat your talking in excess of 120 Mph and the aircraft turn inside there own radius. So I know this method is super strong.