I got started on my OMP 47" Yak today. Looks good so far, but I have to say that I would have preferred the elevator to be one piece like the Accel Katanas, Burrito, EF Edge. Gluing in that metal torque rod is not a big deal, but the one piece design with the elevator halves joined with a piece of hardwood seems like a better set up to me.

Measuring, cutting a notch in the leading edge, drilling holes, waiting on the epoxy to dry takes about an hour. Is there a benefit to using the torque rod? Is it less expensive? Does it work better?

OK, I'm finished whining.

Eric

Hi Dep... I've been reading your posts and opinions now for several months. Just gotta say Hi.
In my humble opinion, torque rods, while a pain to deal with during install seem to be much better in service than the wooden joined elevator halves. I am learning 3D flight and with the large surfaces, and high surface travel, there is less twist between elevator halves when a torque rod is used. If a good sized rod is used, they just dont offer the same twist side to side that I have experiences with the wood. Of course a one piece elevator or dual elevator servos is better though.
Just my $.02

Yip twist is the number one reason like bolt said. It will make them much stronger when only using 1 servo. That is what Mike had in mind. One hours work for lifetime of strength.

Also one of the best features of torque rods is repair. If you break an elevator half which happens a lot with this large couter balanced profiles 3D'ing in the grass, with torque rod you only need to replace one elevator half. Where on other planes you need to pull off the rudder and the elevator to make the replacement.

Agreed to both of the above.

Eric sure I also agree that they can be a pain to install but the advantages mentioned by Dion and Bolt locker is very true. Admittingly I don't crack a skull open ever when doing these. Get it close on a flat table and then I fix the one elevator half on. Hinges and rod included. Then I TLAR the other half on and that's it! 5 minute epoxy with the hinges just pushed in to help align things. It's really easy to do.

OK, I'll buy the "they're better" argument, but still a pain.

Eric

Hey Bolt_locker, I was up in the Dells back in January. (Note to self: Schedule trips to Wisconsin for the summer.)

Why are you epoxying in the t-rod? I don't specify in the instructions to do so and it is not necessary. I think you are making it much harder than it needs to be. Hinge your elevators like you would do anyway and install them onto the stab (no glue). Lay the t-rod in the center and mark for the holes. Drill with the 3/32 drill bit, carve out the traingle stock to clear and then you are ready for final assembly. I wick some thin ca into the hole to help harder the balsa but that's all. The whole procedure takes about 10 minutes tops from marking to ready for assembly. Personally I like the cleaner look of the plane versus having the huge v-notch cutout in the back end of the fuselage. For those building kits, you can always build the elevators one piece by using a 4" piece of 1/4 x 3/8 basswood to join the elevators. Then of course you'll have to cut a v-notch in the back of the fuse for final installation.

It has been a while, but the last few kits that I built that had torque rods (Sig & Great Planes) called for epoxy. I was relying on past experience. The CA method sounds easier, but I don't see me doing it in ten minutes - I am patheticly slow. Add a bad case of laziness and you start to get the picture of why I like the one piece elevator.