Profile Hots
#2
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From: San Antonio, TX
Randy, I bought mine off Model Airplane News site. If you can't find any, let me know. I will take mine to Kinko's and make a c... well I shouldn't be saying that.
Anyway,
I am working on my second version. correcting for a few weaknesses in the original design.
Tom...
Anyway,
I am working on my second version. correcting for a few weaknesses in the original design.
Tom...
#3

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Support the organizations and people who make the plans.
http://www.rcstore.com/rs/general/de...2932&catego=PL
Fun Fly Hots #fsp02932 price: $19.95
Contents
Here's the next generation of this well-known design by Dan Sanitch. The Fun Fly Hots is his answer to all the 'swizzle-stick, fun-fly, no-personality types' that are flying today. With a flying weight of 2 1/2 to 3 1/3 pounds, the model's performance
John
http://www.rcstore.com/rs/general/de...2932&catego=PL
Fun Fly Hots #fsp02932 price: $19.95
Contents
Here's the next generation of this well-known design by Dan Sanitch. The Fun Fly Hots is his answer to all the 'swizzle-stick, fun-fly, no-personality types' that are flying today. With a flying weight of 2 1/2 to 3 1/3 pounds, the model's performance
John
#4
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From: Bulls Gap,
TN
Hey tknobby,
I just ordered a set of those MAN fun fly hots plans. Seen one of these fly a couple of months ago and it was awesome at the maneuvers it would do. I noticed you said you was correcting a few weaknesses in your second one. Is there any thing I should watch out for when building this thing?
I just ordered a set of those MAN fun fly hots plans. Seen one of these fly a couple of months ago and it was awesome at the maneuvers it would do. I noticed you said you was correcting a few weaknesses in your second one. Is there any thing I should watch out for when building this thing?
#5
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From: San Antonio, TX
My first FF Hots I built to plans. Had the fuse fracture just behind the wing. The stabilizer broke at the point where it mounts to the fuse. Structure is too light for my aggressive use.
My mods:
raising the height of the fuse behind the wing continuing to the fin. Greater side area for easier knife edge flight.
changing the airfoil to an enlarged version of the Tadpole's foil. (2 3/4 inches thick, same chord)
increasing the wingspan 4 inches.
redesigning the wing construction more inline with the design on Jerry's Big Boy from Morris Hobbies.
same stab area but moving the hinge line forward 1 1/2 inches and adding aerodynamic balances. Moving the stab up 1/2 inch and forward 2 3/4 inches to get the stab in cleaner air.
adding 1 inch to the trailing edge of the rudder along with an aerodynamic balance.
power will be a MVVS 49 w/ mousee can muffler. prop is a cut down 12 1/4 x 3 3/4
I'll post some pics as the construction progresses. Getting ready to mount the ribs on the A-Just-O jig.
I'll answer any questions if you need.
Tom...
My mods:
raising the height of the fuse behind the wing continuing to the fin. Greater side area for easier knife edge flight.
changing the airfoil to an enlarged version of the Tadpole's foil. (2 3/4 inches thick, same chord)
increasing the wingspan 4 inches.
redesigning the wing construction more inline with the design on Jerry's Big Boy from Morris Hobbies.
same stab area but moving the hinge line forward 1 1/2 inches and adding aerodynamic balances. Moving the stab up 1/2 inch and forward 2 3/4 inches to get the stab in cleaner air.
adding 1 inch to the trailing edge of the rudder along with an aerodynamic balance.
power will be a MVVS 49 w/ mousee can muffler. prop is a cut down 12 1/4 x 3 3/4
I'll post some pics as the construction progresses. Getting ready to mount the ribs on the A-Just-O jig.
I'll answer any questions if you need.
Tom...
#6
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From: Bulls Gap,
TN
Thanks for the info. Any pictures you can post would be a great help also. I'm looking forward to getting my plans and getting started on this one soon. I'll be using an OS 46fx on mine. Thanks again!
#8
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From: San Antonio, TX
Randy,
Here's a pic of the wing. The sheer webbing is in place between the spars, I am fitting the sheer webbing to the trailing edge sheeting. Note the double reflex airfoil.
Here's a pic of the wing. The sheer webbing is in place between the spars, I am fitting the sheer webbing to the trailing edge sheeting. Note the double reflex airfoil.
#11
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From: San Antonio, TX
rajul:
An A-Just-O jig I bought off eBay. They're not made anymore so I had to find a good used one. I had bought a new one in the early 70's and then sold it later on. Really work good and are fairly easy to use.
Tom...
An A-Just-O jig I bought off eBay. They're not made anymore so I had to find a good used one. I had bought a new one in the early 70's and then sold it later on. Really work good and are fairly easy to use.
Tom...
#12
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Originally posted by tknobby
rajul:
An A-Just-O jig I bought off eBay. They're not made anymore so I had to find a good used one. I had bought a new one in the early 70's and then sold it later on. Really work good and are fairly easy to use.
Tom...
rajul:
An A-Just-O jig I bought off eBay. They're not made anymore so I had to find a good used one. I had bought a new one in the early 70's and then sold it later on. Really work good and are fairly easy to use.
Tom...
#13
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From: San Antonio, TX
Is this jig similar to the Great Planes wing jig ?
Not really. This jig is made with 1 x 1 1/2 inch aluminum tubing with 1/2 inch conduit mounted on top of the alu. U channel wood holds the 2 pieces of alu. The pieces that support the ribs fit onto the conduit and can slide for proper position. The unit can be adjusted in the middle to provide built-in dihedral. A jig is provided to drill holes in the ribs at the correct spacing. It takes a bit to set-up but when ready is really easy to work with.
Tom...
#15
As they say there is more than one way to skin a cat lol.
Some people make a templete out of door skin or something of that nature and lay it on the balsa and outline it then cut it out with a no 11 hobby knife one at a time too slow to me.
Some take the plans and copy the rib then lay the copy on top of the bals and use an iron to transfer the outline right onto the balso then you stack the balsa together by placing T pins through all of them and cutting them out on a jig saw or a band saw. I do prefer a bandsaw for this as you can cut many ribs at one time accuratly.
I like to copy the part of the plane of which i want to cut out then spray it with sticky 77 and place it right ontop of a piece of wood that i will be using and then stack them all together and cut them out on the bandsaw.
I am sure these are not the only ways but just something to consider .
Have a great day
Some people make a templete out of door skin or something of that nature and lay it on the balsa and outline it then cut it out with a no 11 hobby knife one at a time too slow to me.
Some take the plans and copy the rib then lay the copy on top of the bals and use an iron to transfer the outline right onto the balso then you stack the balsa together by placing T pins through all of them and cutting them out on a jig saw or a band saw. I do prefer a bandsaw for this as you can cut many ribs at one time accuratly.
I like to copy the part of the plane of which i want to cut out then spray it with sticky 77 and place it right ontop of a piece of wood that i will be using and then stack them all together and cut them out on the bandsaw.
I am sure these are not the only ways but just something to consider .
Have a great day
#16
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From: San Antonio, TX
DonH21,
Dream_Flyer has the right answer. I also use 3M 77 spray adhesive. I cut the correct number of blanks, "LIGHTLY" spray each blank and stack them together with the paper rib copy stuck ontop. I don't have a band saw but I use my scroll saw, cut the ribs close to the outline, then use my Delta oscillating spindle sander to finish the ribs. I also like to cut out any lightening holes when the ribs are stacked. You need to think about which ribs will have knotches for servo mounts, any center spar doublers, etc. Peel off ribs as necessary that don't need knotches, etc.
Using the 3M 77, use a light spray, one dust coat. Otherwise you may not be able to get the ribs apart.
:stupid:
BWT, I am building 3 identical airplanes for a local hobby shop and am using this technique for all the components.
Dream_Flyer has the right answer. I also use 3M 77 spray adhesive. I cut the correct number of blanks, "LIGHTLY" spray each blank and stack them together with the paper rib copy stuck ontop. I don't have a band saw but I use my scroll saw, cut the ribs close to the outline, then use my Delta oscillating spindle sander to finish the ribs. I also like to cut out any lightening holes when the ribs are stacked. You need to think about which ribs will have knotches for servo mounts, any center spar doublers, etc. Peel off ribs as necessary that don't need knotches, etc.
Using the 3M 77, use a light spray, one dust coat. Otherwise you may not be able to get the ribs apart.
:stupid:
BWT, I am building 3 identical airplanes for a local hobby shop and am using this technique for all the components.
#22
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From: San Antonio, TX
Tom, how does your airfoil compared to the original?
DonH21, This airfoil is one I copied from my Tadpole plans. I built a Tadpole, which was a competition Fun Fly airplane from several years ago. Not really competitive now though. I really like the way the foil acts, very hard to stall, great lift at slow speeds, etc. I have another airplane with it; a heavily modified Sig Kadet LT-25 I scratch built from plans. This airplane flies awesome. So I thought i'd try it on the FF Hots.
I still need to sheet the LE and add the cap strips. The elevators and rudder are framed. Fuse is next. Should be flying in a month or so. I'll keep you posted.
Tom...



