WeAkEndDFLyER23

Hey guys I Just want to share my Own Build OMP EDGE 80'

I inspect all the parts and hardware yesterday. I instantly Notice how light all the parts are in this model

I got my digital scale and here are the NUMBERS

Left wing – 1 lb 4.6 oz
Right wing – 1 lb 1oz
Fuse – 1 lb 12.6 oz
Landing gear 9.7 oz
Wing tube 4.8oz
Hardware 12.oz
Tail fin rudder 9.oz
-----------------------------------------
Total 6.55lbs

WeAkEndDFLyER23

I working on my stabilizer right now it was perfect fit I don’t have to sand any thing just slide it in.

WeAkEndDFLyER23

more pic

WeAkEndDFLyER23

Im will be using A Moki 1.80 with bison sport tune muffler and 18x8w APC
all Hitec 5645MG Digital servos and one STD.

Still working on the hinges on both wings hopefully be done tonight. Ill post more picture

WeAkEndDFLyER23

Im all done hinging the wing I notice that the wing tube is not perfectly straight on the fuse is this normal guys who have built this kit?

seanychen

My Feedback: (4)

Hi there,

Wow, that's pretty light weight components. I am also starting to build my OMP Edte 80" ARF, with the same engine setup as yours: Moki 180 w/ BCM Sport muffler. I am going to experiment with various props, like APC 19x8W and Skorepa 19x7.

IowaSilvia

My Feedback: (97)

Sean: Here's the Manual to the OMP Edge 80" http://www.flybuder.com/aeroflyvids/...nual/index.htm

seanychen

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks IowaSilvia.

Sean

seanychen

My Feedback: (4)

I started putting the wings together onto the fuselage last night. The instruction said to use #6-32 bolts and blind nuts, but none was provided in the hardware bag. Instead, I found 2 #8-32 bolts and blind nuts, so I enlarged the holes in the wing hold-down tabs and fuselage for #8-32 bolts and blind nuts. Afterwards, I realized the #8 blind nuts are too tall, taller than the wing hold-down tabs plywood, and cannot seat all the way into the plywood tabs.

What should I do now?

WeAkEndDFLyER23

I just install mine backwards and a dab of glue

seanychen

My Feedback: (4)

OK, earlier tonight I enlarged the hole on the side of the fuselage that mate with the blindnut, so the blind nuts partially eats into the fuselage when the wings are fully fastened.

On to the tail next...

AFSalmon

My Feedback: (3)

We usually just grind the excess blind nut off so it is flush with the ply tab. The original arfs used 8-32s but I eventually decided a 6-32 would work just as well and not require as big a hole for moounting. So that's why the difference there.

seanychen

My Feedback: (4)

It would be nice to have some "ARF" version of the manual, so future buiders won't get confused when they don't find the #6-32 fasteners.

I found the, plywood ears onto which the blindnuts would be installed, to be a little pliant. Hopefully it's strong enough.

By the way, the furnished wing tube is just a hair too long, and I had to force the tube into the balsa end-point beam inside the wing, and still won't completely seat both wings into the fuselage flush. So I ended up grinding off about 1/8" off the wing tube. And the tube was almost straight, so installing the wing into the tube required some effort at first. I almost damaged the wing sheeting a few times trying to push the wings onto the tube. Guess I should've greased it.

I got one of the first "ARF" when OMP released it in April 2004, so these might've been remedied. I think I actually got the first ARF Edge production sale unit.

seanychen

My Feedback: (4)

The stab alignment was perfect every which way. I did rip a small piece of sheeting off the fuselage doubler when I insert the stab into the slot. Seems like I am really out of shape for ARF building... forgot all those tricks to get around little imperfections.

Anyway, control horns next. I like to mount the control horns before hinging moving surfaces, so I won't try to drill holes at an odd position. I put the furnished black plastic control horns straight into my "ARF hardware collection stash". I will get some Sullivan metal control horns, so the clevis connection point lines up with hinge line, so to minimize differentials.

What are you guys doing for tail wheel? I didn't find a tail wheel bracket in the hardware kit, but I probably won't use that even if I find one in an ARF (other than Dave Patrick ARF). I will probably go with Sullivan spring tail wheel assembly.

Umm, hope it doesn't feel like I am hijacking your thread...

WeAkEndDFLyER23

I just finished with the control horns servo installation and linkages. I did use all the stock hardware and tail wheels

WeAkEndDFLyER23

Tomorrow I will work on my receiver and battery.

WeAkEndDFLyER23

one more pic.

seanychen

My Feedback: (4)

Looks like you are a few step ahead of me... I will put on control horns tonight and hinge the surfaces. I will take some pictures too.

WeAkEndDFLyER23

Im working on my engine installation right now I have a quick question on
OMP SUPPORT or any of you guys how have built this Airplane

Is this how you install the engine or should it be pushed in more so it would be dead center on the fuse?

seanychen

My Feedback: (4)

Funny I have the same question. I would love to have it centered too, but doesn't look that way.

marc 540

My Feedback: (6)

Hay all, just wanted to say that I fly all my profiles with the engine off center like that without a problem. It would be a lot of work, not to mention weaken the engine mount to center the engine. I really don't believe you would see any difference in performance anyway's..


Marc 540[8D][8D]

WeAkEndDFLyER23

Thanks, for your reply

WeAkEndDFLyER23

Im 90% finnised just wating for my muffler and install my fuel tank. all my hitec electrinocs fits perfectly.

blueline

My Feedback: (6)

Just curious, what did you determine with the wing tube not being perpendicular to the fusalage? I didn't see any remarks in this thread, nice plane by the way.

STLPilot

My Feedback: (21)

The offset engine is correct, that's the way it's supposed to be. There are too many engine choices for this plane to make custom rails. You'll be fine.