Flew My Flip3d Today!!!!
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Flew My Flip3d Today!!!!
Got my long awaited back ordered Flip yesterday. Have been following the various Flip threads with great interest for months.
Now that I have mine, I hope to gain from others experience on construction.
First thing the manual says is to spray it down with clear polyurethane to keep the covering from peeling. Anybody done this?
I plan on replacing the stock metric control rods with carbon fiber. Should I go with 2-56 or 4-40? Note I am using Hitec 425BB servos.
What about the flying wire on the stab? Are you going with the stock wire and crimped eye's or replacing with CF or what?
My most important concern is the elevator torque rod. Is it working fine as stock or have you modified it?
When I read all the threads on modifying the Flip, I can't help but wonder, "Why isn't what comes in the box good enough" Are the modifications made because the're necessary or because we can?
Thank you all in advance for your advise. I can't wait to get this bird in the air.
Now that I have mine, I hope to gain from others experience on construction.
First thing the manual says is to spray it down with clear polyurethane to keep the covering from peeling. Anybody done this?
I plan on replacing the stock metric control rods with carbon fiber. Should I go with 2-56 or 4-40? Note I am using Hitec 425BB servos.
What about the flying wire on the stab? Are you going with the stock wire and crimped eye's or replacing with CF or what?
My most important concern is the elevator torque rod. Is it working fine as stock or have you modified it?
When I read all the threads on modifying the Flip, I can't help but wonder, "Why isn't what comes in the box good enough" Are the modifications made because the're necessary or because we can?
Thank you all in advance for your advise. I can't wait to get this bird in the air.
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Flew My Flip3d Today!!!!
hey Jeff
I made my mod's just outta personal prefernece. I got certain ways I like to do stuff and I just incorperate it into all my models , I guess you could say its my M.O. that way all my stuff stays the same and I got it in stock. I like to use CA hinges so I tossed those metal ones. The metric rods that come supplied in the kit would probably work, but I figured with the size of those control surfaces why not put some stout'r stuff on it so I went with the 4/40 rods.
the torque rod on the elevator works fine. Before you mount the horz fin go ahead and drill out the ele halves and cut your hinge slotsthat way you'll have your elevator gaps where you want them when you finally do hook the elevators together. I didnt do this, got in a big hurry and mounted the horz fin, then had to comeback and mark my drill hole locations. I wound up with about 1/8" gap in the counter balances on the elev. No biug deal but I saw quickly that you could do all the stuff before you glue the horz fin in and my make things easier when you finally hook the ele halves together.
I used that stock flying wire and did it like the manual says. I didnt spray the model with poly either. I still got a few things I'd like to try with it, but i think its a fun plane...Gator
heres a couple pics of mine flying today. I was taken the pic and rcflyer86 was doing the flying
I made my mod's just outta personal prefernece. I got certain ways I like to do stuff and I just incorperate it into all my models , I guess you could say its my M.O. that way all my stuff stays the same and I got it in stock. I like to use CA hinges so I tossed those metal ones. The metric rods that come supplied in the kit would probably work, but I figured with the size of those control surfaces why not put some stout'r stuff on it so I went with the 4/40 rods.
the torque rod on the elevator works fine. Before you mount the horz fin go ahead and drill out the ele halves and cut your hinge slotsthat way you'll have your elevator gaps where you want them when you finally do hook the elevators together. I didnt do this, got in a big hurry and mounted the horz fin, then had to comeback and mark my drill hole locations. I wound up with about 1/8" gap in the counter balances on the elev. No biug deal but I saw quickly that you could do all the stuff before you glue the horz fin in and my make things easier when you finally hook the ele halves together.
I used that stock flying wire and did it like the manual says. I didnt spray the model with poly either. I still got a few things I'd like to try with it, but i think its a fun plane...Gator
heres a couple pics of mine flying today. I was taken the pic and rcflyer86 was doing the flying
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Flew My Flip3d Today!!!!
thanks again for flying the flip ERIC so's I could take some pics, this last pic has the FLIP and V1VRV2's OMP Edge540. We were trying to get them close together hovering for the pic. We almost had another thread started form this pic entitled: "Crashed my Flip 3D today"<GRIN>....Gator
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Flew My Flip3d Today!!!!
Thanks for letting me fly the flip! It was a blast!.....I wish I had enough money for one... I think my OMP edge will be just fine.....if it will ever get here
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Flew My Flip3d Today!!!!
Well, I installed the tail this afternoon on my Flip, and everything went as planned. Gator is totally correct by saying that caution has to be used when gluing in the elevators. Measure twice before gluing anything in the tail ! I am also using CA hinges, and did add a third one on the rudder for more strength. That is the only modification I have done so far to the whole plane (besides using CA hinges). I am also using Carbon Fiber rods on all control surfaces with 4-40 hardware (always like to be on the safe side), but I think that 2-56 would do it also (when using CF rods). I opted not to install the wheel pants, since it is just weight, and nothing but trouble anyways.
I will also use the flying wire.
OK, about the covering : I think I will spray it down with clear lustrekote once finished in order to keep the trim colors from peeling. Mine are coming of everywhere !
I will also use the flying wire.
Originally posted by rc_for_me
First thing the manual says is to spray it down with clear polyurethane to keep the covering from peeling. Anybody done this?
First thing the manual says is to spray it down with clear polyurethane to keep the covering from peeling. Anybody done this?
OK, about the covering : I think I will spray it down with clear lustrekote once finished in order to keep the trim colors from peeling. Mine are coming of everywhere !
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Flight Charicteristics Flip 3D vs Sledge 540/OMP540 VS Sig S.E. VS Magic Ex VS Knife
OK, To all that can answer with authority due to owning or flying or seen flying, I ask this, what attritbutes do these fine aircraft have compared to each other?
Fastest W/O flutter flying areo/sport?
Slowest able flying areo/sport?
Most violent able 3Der?
Slowest/smoothest/stable 3Der?
Your favorite of those above and why, or the favorite ability of any of those above?
Thanks, Dennis
Fastest W/O flutter flying areo/sport?
Slowest able flying areo/sport?
Most violent able 3Der?
Slowest/smoothest/stable 3Der?
Your favorite of those above and why, or the favorite ability of any of those above?
Thanks, Dennis
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Flew My Flip3d Today!!!!
Thanks Gator for the insight on your construction MO. But you've got to quit showing those pictures. I am in such a hurry to get this beauty flying it isn't funny!
Also thanks to Texas 3D. I'm going to spray mine down with clear acrylic once I cut out all the access holes.
Already planed on going with CF rods but will move up from 2-56 to 4-40. I think I'll go with ball links all around. Want to keep those linkages tight.
As far as the flying wire is concerned, I've got a 1/16"od CF rod that looks made for a flying wire replacement. I guess it would be a flying rod!?!
The stock flying wire is continuous from the fuselage top to the stab to fuselage bottom to the other half of the stab then finishes back at the top.
I've never built a CF flying rod before but feel just a single rod from the fuse to each stab half ought to be enough. Any thoughts?
If one is enough, should it be on top or bottom?
Thanks again to all....
Also thanks to Texas 3D. I'm going to spray mine down with clear acrylic once I cut out all the access holes.
Already planed on going with CF rods but will move up from 2-56 to 4-40. I think I'll go with ball links all around. Want to keep those linkages tight.
As far as the flying wire is concerned, I've got a 1/16"od CF rod that looks made for a flying wire replacement. I guess it would be a flying rod!?!
The stock flying wire is continuous from the fuselage top to the stab to fuselage bottom to the other half of the stab then finishes back at the top.
I've never built a CF flying rod before but feel just a single rod from the fuse to each stab half ought to be enough. Any thoughts?
If one is enough, should it be on top or bottom?
Thanks again to all....
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Flew My Flip3d Today!!!!
I think you could get by without putingthe cable or the rods for support. The cable was pretty easy......What did YNOT do to his Flip?.....G
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Flip set-up tips
I am now buliding my 3rd flip for a cust. And we have had great success with using all 440 rods with nelson hobbie ball links on the servo side with 1 1/4 long airwild arms. As far as the flying wire deal I use the 3/16 bamboo BBQ sticks on the bottom side from leading edge of the stab to bottom of fuse (they even match the woodgrain look) Any supermarket cost about 1.00 per 100. Also we opted to make taller landing gear, It adds to the fun! I now have 3 sets of wheel pants, Any one need any??? I saw the new worldmodels 3D plane today, And it looks like heavy plane and heavy wing loading ( 9-10 lbs) Maybe a Saito 180. BENDER
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Flipper
I used Dave Brown CF strips, CA'ed to the bottom of the horizontal stab. Its not going to break.
2-56 CF rods with Nelson Ball Joints all the way around.
I cut off the wing tips tonight. It made great improvements to the Madness, I hope it will do the same for the Flip.
Will find out tomorrow.
2-56 CF rods with Nelson Ball Joints all the way around.
I cut off the wing tips tonight. It made great improvements to the Madness, I hope it will do the same for the Flip.
Will find out tomorrow.
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CG
Mine is finished ! Only have to balance ! Tony & Gator, where did you put your CG ? I was planning on putting it at the most aft recommended (150mm). What do you think ?
Hey Tony, stop working on saturday's and come fly !
Hey Tony, stop working on saturday's and come fly !
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Flew My Flip3d Today!!!!
Ulf I took mine to the field and me and my buddy checked for the CG , we started at the spar and the tail droped down quick and we said:"OK, that will do" and I took of and flew. Its pretty good balanced, doesn't take much to hold her straight & level inverted...don't snap even in high rate, so I think I'm pretty close. I put the battery above the tank, (Irvine 53)....gator
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Flippy
You will want a plane with excellent transition.
How well does the Webra's do this? All the Webra's I have owned would really scream on the top end, however was not very good in a low idle or transition. Is the 50 that much better than the 45?
BTW: If you did not see the Flip thread in the other forum. It the Flip does not roll to your liking...........cut the wingtips off.
How well does the Webra's do this? All the Webra's I have owned would really scream on the top end, however was not very good in a low idle or transition. Is the 50 that much better than the 45?
BTW: If you did not see the Flip thread in the other forum. It the Flip does not roll to your liking...........cut the wingtips off.
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Flew My Flip3d Today!!!!
Originally posted by Billy Hell
Gator
I was wondering if the GWB would roll better without the wing tips? What do you think?
(Sorry to hijack the thread for a second)
Gator
I was wondering if the GWB would roll better without the wing tips? What do you think?
(Sorry to hijack the thread for a second)
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Flip
Whats a GWB?
The wingtips arre there for stablity.
You want the plane to be stable?
I don't. CUT 'EM OFF!
72 should mount inverted ok. You may need to trim part of the cowling a bit, however it should be fine.
The wingtips arre there for stablity.
You want the plane to be stable?
I don't. CUT 'EM OFF!
72 should mount inverted ok. You may need to trim part of the cowling a bit, however it should be fine.