Is it possible (PBF)?
#2
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From: ty,
at this page there are some great videos including tork rolls with pbf
http://www.jcrc.com/pizzaboxflyer.htm
http://www.jcrc.com/pizzaboxflyer.htm
#3
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From: Louisville,
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The natural tendency for a PBF when in the fullest upright torque roll position is to flop over on its back. But I have been able to get about 2 complete revolutions before falling out. And since the wingspan is very narrow the torque roll rate becomes very rapid once it is set in motion therefore making it difficult to keep up with. But to answer your question....yes it can be torque rolled but its not that easy.
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From: Louisville,
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Now the hover and harrier are much much easier than in a regular plane. I usually trim mine with a little up trim so that all I have to do is work the throttle and it will harrier around almost hands off.
#8
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From: Windsor, CO
Im thinking of making mine 24 X 32 so the tail has a longer moment, (read Chip Hyde's article in Model Airplane News) thus making it easier to torque roll. What do you think?
#9
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From: Louisville,
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I always recommend to everyone that they build their first PBF according to plans. You will have absolutely so much fun with it that you will be hesitant to make any major mods. But atleast you will have a reference point and a feel for how good the original flies. Just remember the key to the best PBF's are keeping it light. As long as it ends up around 2.5lbs with a plain bearing engine you will be happy. Just my 2 cents worth.
#11
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From: gone,
A longer than wide PBF doesn't really gain you anythng. It does make the roll control harder to trim as the thing gets longer in comparison to the width. I've gone as far as 2/3 as wide as long.
You can gan better roll stability by going wider than the length... but roll rate suffers.
Square is about as good as they get.
The only place to really improve a PBF is in making the LE stiffer to allo higher top airspeed. With some of the softer coroplast, the LE is very flimsy and will start flapping at less than 2/3 throttle in level flight. Inserted wood in the LE and other things help... Anything that doesn't excessively increase weight and stiffens the LE is good.
I've got a 24X24 PBF that van handle a full throttle TT .46 pro in level flight.
It tucks the nose as it speeds up, and can do an outside loop with neutral elevator.
You can gan better roll stability by going wider than the length... but roll rate suffers.
Square is about as good as they get.
The only place to really improve a PBF is in making the LE stiffer to allo higher top airspeed. With some of the softer coroplast, the LE is very flimsy and will start flapping at less than 2/3 throttle in level flight. Inserted wood in the LE and other things help... Anything that doesn't excessively increase weight and stiffens the LE is good.
I've got a 24X24 PBF that van handle a full throttle TT .46 pro in level flight.
It tucks the nose as it speeds up, and can do an outside loop with neutral elevator.
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From: Saint Louis,
MO
TailSpnr, I notice the stinger on your MCF is bent down. Does it pass through a whole in the coroplast to exhaust out the bottom? I was thinking of doing this but was afraid of stinger hitting the ground and causing a fracture somewhere. Can you explain your setup?
Thanks.
Thanks.
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From: Louisville,
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Sure, I turned my stinger down 90 degrees and routed it through the coroplast. To resolve the issue of damaging the stinger I cut it off almost flush with the bottom of the coroplast. I simply use a tie wrap o the top and bottom of the coroplast around the stinger. And I flared the stinger at the end of it to keep the tie wrap from coming off. Its has worked great and the stinger is also the only thing that supports my MCP. And as you can see I have not been real nice to my MCP and its still holding up just fine.



