Looking for advice---------------
#1
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From: BC, Canada
I flew R/C until about 10 years ago, and the profile style fun-fly machines were just starting to come out. I was interested, but had other things to do with my time.
I still have my 40 size Aerosport (Ugly Stick) with a Webra Race 61 Long-stroke, and a Scat Cat 500 with a piped .45 - so I think I've found my home with this forum. :devious:
I'm going to start flying again this spring, and once I get back on the sticks I'll be looking to build a profile ship with good slow flight/Hovering characteristics. Looking for recommendations for an airframe to be powered by one of the following- I have the above 61 Race, a YS61, or a 1st Gen. OS FS91.
Kits or Scratch-built, it doesn't matter, although I would lean to scratch building. Even a suggestion on airfoil to use, and wing area to aim for, in the 60 size range.
I'm saving my 40 size engines for PBF's!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for any suggestions!!
I still have my 40 size Aerosport (Ugly Stick) with a Webra Race 61 Long-stroke, and a Scat Cat 500 with a piped .45 - so I think I've found my home with this forum. :devious:
I'm going to start flying again this spring, and once I get back on the sticks I'll be looking to build a profile ship with good slow flight/Hovering characteristics. Looking for recommendations for an airframe to be powered by one of the following- I have the above 61 Race, a YS61, or a 1st Gen. OS FS91.
Kits or Scratch-built, it doesn't matter, although I would lean to scratch building. Even a suggestion on airfoil to use, and wing area to aim for, in the 60 size range.
I'm saving my 40 size engines for PBF's!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for any suggestions!!
#2
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From: Albuquerque, NM,
If I were you I'd have a look at Morris' lineup of planes, they have many that would fit your category. Also, www.hsrcm.com has a nice lineup of planes. I'm currently flying the Ecstasy from hsrcm.com and I'm abo****ely in love!
Bottom line, there are many, many kits that would suit your description, but I think those mentioned above are probably worth looking into. You might want to try finding the sirex wasp as well, since you prefer to scratch. Great flying plane.
Your engines are probably a little big for the wasp, but you could scale it up/bash it.
Kevin
Bottom line, there are many, many kits that would suit your description, but I think those mentioned above are probably worth looking into. You might want to try finding the sirex wasp as well, since you prefer to scratch. Great flying plane.
Your engines are probably a little big for the wasp, but you could scale it up/bash it.
Kevin
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From: Elkhart IN
I honestly think after reading these forums for months now the best .40 size plane available right now is the morris hobbies sledge 540, 2nd is the omp 540. But there are lots of planes out there with fuses to. I guess it depends on what you are going after.
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From: The Woodlands,
TX
Welcome to the Evolution of Flight.
Your two 61's may not be the best motors for a Fun Fly or 3D plane. That and all the current Profiles are 40 size.
However, the OS 91 you have is the good one. 91 FS or FSR are GREAT MOTORS. Wish they still made those versions.
Best bet, using your existing motors, is the OS 91. Put that motor in a Great Planes, U-Can-Do-3D. That is a sweet set up. The plane flies like a baby, slow it down to walking speed, do all types of crazy stuff, KE from horizon to horizon and down right the easiest plane I have hovered with the exception of a 40% Extra.
Allot has changed in 10 years. We have better equipment today, faster servos, better running motors, more prop selections, better batteries and more airplanes.
Your two 61's may not be the best motors for a Fun Fly or 3D plane. That and all the current Profiles are 40 size.
However, the OS 91 you have is the good one. 91 FS or FSR are GREAT MOTORS. Wish they still made those versions.
Best bet, using your existing motors, is the OS 91. Put that motor in a Great Planes, U-Can-Do-3D. That is a sweet set up. The plane flies like a baby, slow it down to walking speed, do all types of crazy stuff, KE from horizon to horizon and down right the easiest plane I have hovered with the exception of a 40% Extra.
Allot has changed in 10 years. We have better equipment today, faster servos, better running motors, more prop selections, better batteries and more airplanes.
#6
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From: BC, Canada
Billy - It wuzn't me.......unless my evil twin is hanging around again.
YNOT - I thought the OS would be the preferred engine. I'll check out the U-Can-Do-3D.
Kevin - The Morris stuff is interesting, and I'll have a look at the Wasp you recommend.
Hoverit - My 40 size engines are pretty worn out or have poor power to weight. I've always preferred flying the bigger planes, 'cept they don't bounce as nice, and my bigger engines are all in good shape.
I have an original 1 piece HOTS, which is a real blast to fly with a light .30 engine, and no where near as fun or agile with a .40. I've been checking out some threads on the Hot Hots, and it doesn't seem to be getting the reviews I would expect or hope for it. There were several different sizes of Hots at the field where I used to fly, and the consensus was that the original was the most fun. Maybe I'll just scale it up 30% or so, hang bigger control surfaces on it, and give it a try.
Thanks for the input so far - keep it coming
Thanks.
YNOT - I thought the OS would be the preferred engine. I'll check out the U-Can-Do-3D.
Kevin - The Morris stuff is interesting, and I'll have a look at the Wasp you recommend.
Hoverit - My 40 size engines are pretty worn out or have poor power to weight. I've always preferred flying the bigger planes, 'cept they don't bounce as nice, and my bigger engines are all in good shape.
I have an original 1 piece HOTS, which is a real blast to fly with a light .30 engine, and no where near as fun or agile with a .40. I've been checking out some threads on the Hot Hots, and it doesn't seem to be getting the reviews I would expect or hope for it. There were several different sizes of Hots at the field where I used to fly, and the consensus was that the original was the most fun. Maybe I'll just scale it up 30% or so, hang bigger control surfaces on it, and give it a try.
Thanks for the input so far - keep it coming
Thanks.
#7
For the Wasp just enlarge the plans to a 48 wing . I am in the middle of building one that size as we speak
. Will be putting either a YS. 91 or a Saito .80 or .91. And the plans call for you to sandwitch two pieces of balsa with glass and epoxy. But to save weight you would be better off stick building the fuse.
Have a great day all going flying it is 75 F here lol he he he
. Will be putting either a YS. 91 or a Saito .80 or .91. And the plans call for you to sandwitch two pieces of balsa with glass and epoxy. But to save weight you would be better off stick building the fuse. Have a great day all going flying it is 75 F here lol he he he
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From: BC, Canada
Dream Flyer - I have down-loaded the DXF files for the various Wasps, and the Profile Hots. I've been comparing the Hornet Wasp to the Hots, and it is remarkable how similar they are with respect to tail moment, wing aspect ratio, etc.. The Hornet Wasp is about 6% larger (Wing span, wing cord, fuse length)
However..... The airfoils are not very similar, and the fin and rudder on the Hots has over twice the area of the Wasp, if it is scaled up 6% to match the rest of the Wasp.
I was thinking that I would scale up the Hornet about 8%, aiming for a wing area about 15% larger, however, I would taper the wing planform and ailerons to something like the Sledge, and do a fuse profile along the lines of the original Hots. (A Hot Horny Wasp????)
With your comment about the weather, you must have been watching the weather channel!! It's been about -10 C. (14 F.) for the past three days - Coldest it's been all winter in this neck of the woods.
Please let me know how you make out with your Wasp.
Jim.
However..... The airfoils are not very similar, and the fin and rudder on the Hots has over twice the area of the Wasp, if it is scaled up 6% to match the rest of the Wasp.
I was thinking that I would scale up the Hornet about 8%, aiming for a wing area about 15% larger, however, I would taper the wing planform and ailerons to something like the Sledge, and do a fuse profile along the lines of the original Hots. (A Hot Horny Wasp????)
With your comment about the weather, you must have been watching the weather channel!! It's been about -10 C. (14 F.) for the past three days - Coldest it's been all winter in this neck of the woods.
Please let me know how you make out with your Wasp.
Jim.
#9
You can go here http://www.users.bigpond.com/sirexwasp/ And then look for Super Wasp. He changed a few things.
Heres How
Substitute the Spruce spars with two lengths of 1/4sq balsa.
1/8 balsa end plates instead of 3/16
Eliminate Vortex Plates, replace with 1/8 Vortex Vanes as shown in pics above, Covered seperatly and glued to top of wing with Silastic RTV
Use 9 ribs instead of 11, Two inner ribs are 4" from center as per plan, remainder evenly spaced along wing. (approx 5.75") You can see the ribs outlines thru the wing in the last image above
I thought I would try a few things I never tried before just to see lol.
1. Is I used blue insulation foam like you get in 4 by 8 sheets by about 3/4 thick at a home depot. I used that for the ribs and for the center of the fuse. The ribs are almost gone
. Tried to make them lighter and went with a 6" between ribs for the 48" wing.
Note I did this since I thought I would save some money by using the foam but as most of you very good builders know I was wrong lol. If you do not mind building slow it is okay. But the cost of Foam Safe Super Glue far outweighted what I saved over balsa not to mention the time involved with cutting out the foam . The leading edge is not quit as blunt as the original plans but very close still 3" thick wing.
If you like I will do a little measuring and let you know what everything else is. I just used the Wasp plans as something to get ideas from. I also moved the horizontal stab towards the wing by 4" so the elavator will be infront of the rudder like a Cap
.
Heres How
Substitute the Spruce spars with two lengths of 1/4sq balsa.
1/8 balsa end plates instead of 3/16
Eliminate Vortex Plates, replace with 1/8 Vortex Vanes as shown in pics above, Covered seperatly and glued to top of wing with Silastic RTV
Use 9 ribs instead of 11, Two inner ribs are 4" from center as per plan, remainder evenly spaced along wing. (approx 5.75") You can see the ribs outlines thru the wing in the last image above
I thought I would try a few things I never tried before just to see lol.
1. Is I used blue insulation foam like you get in 4 by 8 sheets by about 3/4 thick at a home depot. I used that for the ribs and for the center of the fuse. The ribs are almost gone
. Tried to make them lighter and went with a 6" between ribs for the 48" wing.Note I did this since I thought I would save some money by using the foam but as most of you very good builders know I was wrong lol. If you do not mind building slow it is okay. But the cost of Foam Safe Super Glue far outweighted what I saved over balsa not to mention the time involved with cutting out the foam . The leading edge is not quit as blunt as the original plans but very close still 3" thick wing.
If you like I will do a little measuring and let you know what everything else is. I just used the Wasp plans as something to get ideas from. I also moved the horizontal stab towards the wing by 4" so the elavator will be infront of the rudder like a Cap
.
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From: BC, Canada
Dream-Flyer - I found the site for the Sirexwasp yesterday and down-loaded all three or four DXF files for the various Wasps. IMO, the Hornet looks the best.
Like yourself, I'm not one to stick to the plans, even the ones I draw. I'll use CAD to modify the plans and keep a record, and scale the ribs etc....
I'll probably build a semi-profile fuse - Having tanks and servos hanging out in the wind doesn't appeal to me, but neither does the weight and work involved in making a proper fuse. I don't see this plane living for a particularly long time.
If you're interested and CAD capable, I'll send you the drawing for comment when I get it pulled into shape.
Jim
Like yourself, I'm not one to stick to the plans, even the ones I draw. I'll use CAD to modify the plans and keep a record, and scale the ribs etc....
I'll probably build a semi-profile fuse - Having tanks and servos hanging out in the wind doesn't appeal to me, but neither does the weight and work involved in making a proper fuse. I don't see this plane living for a particularly long time.
If you're interested and CAD capable, I'll send you the drawing for comment when I get it pulled into shape.
Jim
#11
I sure wish I could accept those files and use a Cad Program. I just do things by ruler and Dial Caliper. And you are right I am using the Canopy of the Hornet. But I am also decresing the number of ribs to be used like in the Super Wasp along with other things he mentioned to make it lighter. Since I bit the big bullet on the fuse when I used the blue foam
. the Horizontal stab will be built up with 1/4 balsa along with the elavator itself. But the elevator will be heck I forgot what you call it lol. counter blanced by wind lol. The Horizontal stab is 16" across and 4" deep and the Elavator is 21" across and 4" as well. I have not gotten to the rudder as of yet but I am sure I will enlarge it as well
. The ailerons will be 6" inboard and 4" outboard. So I do believe it will have 1008In of wing area and weight less than 6 pounds all up weight.
Hmmmmm is that a glider lol.
. the Horizontal stab will be built up with 1/4 balsa along with the elavator itself. But the elevator will be heck I forgot what you call it lol. counter blanced by wind lol. The Horizontal stab is 16" across and 4" deep and the Elavator is 21" across and 4" as well. I have not gotten to the rudder as of yet but I am sure I will enlarge it as well
. The ailerons will be 6" inboard and 4" outboard. So I do believe it will have 1008In of wing area and weight less than 6 pounds all up weight.
Hmmmmm is that a glider lol.




