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Old 03-20-2003, 03:52 AM
  #26  
BotleRocketWar
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"I didnt "I" beam the shear webs and I ran the grain vertical.
I just glued them to the front of the spars and they didnt run the lenght of each bay."

That is how I have done it on every airplane I have ever built, I am not going to stop now! I make those shear webs a little smaller too. All the wings on our .40 size airplanes are overbuilt, REALLY overbuilt. I learned that from building the Seduction...

That's an awesome pic! Definitely one of the best pics around. I want to see some Sledge videos, that Cap has no style... <G>

Yeah, It will fit in my car. It's going to be hard, but I think it will be worth it...I wonder where I should keep the back seat?
Old 03-20-2003, 04:27 AM
  #27  
ChuckAuger
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Default Yeah..sorry

Sorry I even brought up the shear webs. It's been well hashed in other threads. I felt certain when I posted it, somebody would comment. I just like to do things a certain way, YMMV.

If you fly like Wayne and Brian, you probably don't need any shear webs You won' trash one in the air. I feel like I will probably not spend all my Sledge time in the air..I think a few crashes will be in my future.

So I put the shear webs in..using a practice that has served me well in the past..I'm sure there are plenty of other ways to put shear webs in..or just leave them out. YMMV.
Old 03-20-2003, 03:13 PM
  #28  
TailTwister
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Jeff Williams,

Any comment on not using sheer webs? My novice understanding is that they are to help disperse stress. If you are not doing snaps, walls, and blenders, can the plane be safely flown with no webs? How about only the center 1/3 of them?

Any input?
Old 03-20-2003, 03:44 PM
  #29  
JWilliams
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Do not leave out the sheer webs, run them vertically if you want but I know you all will be surprised how strong the I-beam system is even when running the grain parallel. We have all been doing it a certain way for so long that we are hesitant to do it another way. Mine are all built with the i-beam and grain parallel to the spar and they are strong. Try my method, if it breaks I will replace your sledge. JEff W.
Old 03-20-2003, 08:44 PM
  #30  
jmulder
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Jeff, You are right....You got me hooked on that Knife!!!! I sold it the other day to buy my Sledge....I almost cried.....But....You best believe I will be building another one as soon as I get caught up in the shop with other planes. Where can I get the tail mods?
Old 03-20-2003, 11:06 PM
  #31  
BotleRocketWar
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Jeff, we know your way is strong. I am pretty sure it's stronger too! I think it's more about me being dumb and lazy. I want to fly it!

We want to know about the tail mods!
Old 03-20-2003, 11:41 PM
  #32  
ChuckAuger
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Default I was only joking...

I don't recommend leaving the shear webs out at all, that's why I used the . There was a raging debate over the shear webs long ago...Wayne might recall....and at least one builder (obviously not Wayne) did leave them out. This is why I said that I knew as soon as I typed the words "shear webs" in the post I would get called on it..

I am an anal retentive perfectionist is what it boils down to...I'm sure not gonna tell anybody else how to do it, just how I did it.

The other Jeff can answer the tail mods question...I'd say the counterbalances looked about 1 1/2" to me...maybe a little less.
Old 03-21-2003, 03:16 AM
  #33  
JWilliams
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I will work on the tail mod next week and have something all sledge owners can get access too. If you cannot wait, just build it with a 2 1/4" counterbalance. The physical tail dimension is the same, hinge line the same place, just shorten the horizontal stab so you will have a 2 1/4" counterbalance. It is easy to do but just be careful it is built correctly or you might blow them off. I really want to test mine more before releasing the modification. This weekend should allow the necessary time and I have two current sledge owners that I am going to have fly it and give their opinion. Thanks for your patience, Jeff Williams
Old 03-21-2003, 03:18 AM
  #34  
wgeffon
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Me?
Old 03-21-2003, 04:09 AM
  #35  
jmulder
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Ive got all the time in the world...........John
Old 03-21-2003, 04:28 AM
  #36  
BotleRocketWar
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Those counterbalances sound a little big, I'll bet they do make a difference.

If it really does make a difference, I'll go ahead and make the mod...

Any chance you could get me a picture? A picture of the finished stab/elevator would be great.

As far as color schemes go, any suggestions? I think I'll have to steal one of Wayne's. I love his Sledge and especially his old Top Cap covered like the biggie H9 Cap...I might have to go for that...
Old 03-21-2003, 03:50 PM
  #37  
JWilliams
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Brian, I cannot get a picture up till Monday. Maybe Wayne will bring his camera down this Sat and snap one and post it sooner than I can. It is a very easy mod. Contact termagator on here he is a genious at color schemes. Jeff W.
Old 03-21-2003, 04:17 PM
  #38  
TERMAGATOR
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hey Jeff, on the mod on the sledge, didn't you tell me to stop the horz fin at the nxt to last stick, Somebody posted a sledge ele plan, it was a little blurry, but you could tell with this plan where to end your horz stab. sledge owners, just build your horz stab out to the next to the last stick that goes with the fuse, and then build counter balance around it......G
Old 03-22-2003, 12:39 AM
  #39  
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Default sledge tail

Gator, you are correct. That is what 3Dreaming and I both did was to counter balance it from that last angled stick. That will yield a 2.25" counterbalance. What has to happen is to be sure it is constructed correctly so it will be strong enough. So far mine has held but I have not flown it since Monday at your place. I will be flying it tomorrow at 3dreamings field and Wayne Geffon, 3Dreaming and capthis will all fly it and see it they can tell a difference. I can tell, I like the tail and I want a little more flight testing to be sure it holds up. Jeff W.
Old 03-22-2003, 01:17 AM
  #40  
Mike Bogh
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Damm Skippy they'll be able to tell a difference....
Old 03-31-2003, 02:05 AM
  #41  
jmulder
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The aluminum landing gear in the Sledge kit looks a bit sturdier than the last set of aluminum gear I got from Morris. Are you guys using these or are you going to glass gear?
Old 03-31-2003, 02:54 AM
  #42  
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I knew that I should not have done the Houston Fun Fly.

I am now building two planes.

I am glad to see that there are motors like the 60 Four strokes going on the Sledge as I am waiting for the new Magnum 52 to get in my hand to go any farther on the 540.

Will be checking the other thread for clues.

If nothing else will see y'all again next year here in Houston.

Take care Jim
Old 03-31-2003, 05:18 AM
  #43  
BotleRocketWar
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Here is an update on mine so far.

I've got the wing completely built. I am still worried about them folding up because there is no spar going through the center and no wing joiner. I guess I'll really have to rely on the fuselage and 'glass cloth to hold it together! I'll have to take your word for it on this one, Jeff.

I built the horizontal stabilizer and elevator WITH the counterbalances. I'll try and get a picture of them for anyone wondering about it. I don't know if I did mine like Jeff, but it's definitely strong enough.

I framed up the fuselage tonight and it just needs the tubes and sheeting installed. It's REALLY strong as it is, but heavy. I have actually considered finishing the airplane WITHOUT sheeting the fuselage. I don't think I will though...

The ailerons are also done, so all I have to do is finish the fuselage and the vertical tail. I've got all the covering, radio equipment, and an engine so my goal is to get it in the air next weekend.

I will either use my Dubro profile gear or the gear supplied. Why are most of you replacing the supplied landing gear on all these profiles? What's wrong with this stuff?

Here's what I think of the construction. I think it's a strong design (besides the center of the wing!). I think it is a little overbuilt, but I wanted to build it completely stock. When I build another one, I will definitely throw out a lot of wood. The wing does not need the 2.5 strip on the bottom, and the fuselage could go without some of those sticks. A lot of holes could be drilled and a lot of wood could be left out without a problem IMO. I was surprised to find out the fuselage is framed with 3/8 sticks. I think it would be fine with 1/4 inch wood and sheeted the same way. The motor mounts are huge, but I won't have to worry about them breaking!

The horizontal tail will flex a little more than I would like, but I think it will be fine when it is covered. I might add a couple sticks to the ailerons, but I think they would be fine as they are.

That's about all for now...
Old 03-31-2003, 02:25 PM
  #44  
ChuckAuger
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Default Wing Center..

You might want to re-visit the wing center section. There are 2 spars that go behind the main spars..maybe 12" ~18" long..that are continuous. This is what gives the center section its strength. Also, if you look at the list of mods I made towards the top of this post you will see where I used a piece of 1/16" AC ply on the rear of the LE so I could get away from the FG cloth joint.
Old 03-31-2003, 08:29 PM
  #45  
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Default Re: Wing Center..

Originally posted by ChuckAuger
You might want to re-visit the wing center section. There are 2 spars that go behind the main spars..maybe 12" ~18" long..that are continuous. This is what gives the center section its strength. Also, if you look at the list of mods I made towards the top of this post you will see where I used a piece of 1/16" AC ply on the rear of the LE so I could get away from the FG cloth joint.
The manual that came with my sledge clearly shows the secondary spar as being NONcontinuous, just like the main spar. It specifically states to use an 8" leftover piece of balsa. When it says to add the spar for the bottom side, it says to do it as in step 9, which is where it shows them being done noncontinuously. That's how I did mine. I hope it doesn't fail.

-bsc
Old 03-31-2003, 08:35 PM
  #46  
BotleRocketWar
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Chuck,

Are you talking about the 1/16 inch balsa sheet about an inch wide that goes across the joint?

I don't trust it...I am not gentle with my airplanes!
Old 03-31-2003, 08:42 PM
  #47  
BotleRocketWar
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I went back and looked at some of the older threads on this airplane and have not seen one thing mentioned on this wing joint...Why aren't more people worried?
Old 03-31-2003, 09:06 PM
  #48  
wgeffon
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Because the strenght is there in the design.
There is no way you'd be able to load the wing up enough to seperate a continuous piece of sheeting. Its just not going to happen.

I fly mine pretty wild but no comaprison to the way Jeff W. and 3Ddreaming fly theirs.
If a wing is gonna fail they'd be the ones to see it happen. No problems at all with their planes.

Dont overthink this plane. Build it and fly the SH*T out of it!
Old 03-31-2003, 09:11 PM
  #49  
ChuckAuger
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Default Re: Re: Wing Center..

Originally posted by BSC
The manual that came with my sledge clearly shows the secondary spar as being NONcontinuous, just like the main spar. It specifically states to use an 8" leftover piece of balsa. When it says to add the spar for the bottom side, it says to do it as in step 9, which is where it shows them being done noncontinuously. That's how I did mine. I hope it doesn't fail.

-bsc
Yeah, you are correct..I went back and looked at Wreckerman2s thread on the Sledge and it showed his in 2 pieces..I really think I made mine solid though..or I might have put a 1/16' AC ply "dihedral" brace on the spar..not sure. I did the framing long ago, just finished it up recently. All I know is I hate FG cloth and would have done something to get away from using it.

Sorry for the confusion..I am at work and didn't have the plans at hand when I made the above post.

And BRW..whatever I did, it's working. I can't imagine putting any more stress on one than practicing blenders without all the inputs just right.
Old 03-31-2003, 10:31 PM
  #50  
BotleRocketWar
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We will just have to see I guess.. If she breaks, I'm going to cry!


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