balsa nova
#1
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From: Sulphur,
OK
hi
i got a Balsa nova 1.20 kit before i get started what mods do you recommend i'm putting a St G2300 in it and what pipe should i us with this motor
thanks Guy
i got a Balsa nova 1.20 kit before i get started what mods do you recommend i'm putting a St G2300 in it and what pipe should i us with this motor
thanks Guy
#2
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From: Castaic, CA
atvracer
Here's a previous write up I did.
Denis
----------
I have both the small Balsa Nova and the large one. They are both great flying planes and my favorite planes to fly. Naturally the large one flies better than the small one. For a high performance plane it is very forgiving and lands better than anything I have. Dead sticks are easy because it maintains good control at almost any speed. This plane never does any thing ugly or surprising even with extreme abuse of the sticks.
There are no foam or plastic parts in the construction. It is built up and completely sheeted with 3/32 balsa. The fuselage is a continues structure from the tail to the spinner. The cowl is built up but then glued to the fuselage. I didn't like that because it's a nuisance for engine installation so I made the cowl a bolt on unit. I use a Super Tigre 2300 (1.4) and it's a tight fit. With the Moki 1.6 I think the fiber glass cowl available as an extra may be a must. The Moki motor mount could be a problem also. Unless it's small in the back it might cause you to have to drop the thrust line a little.
The canopy and turtle deck are an integral part of the structure of the fuselage. As a matter of fact a curved lamented beam runs from the front of the canopy to the to the tail across the top. They did this, I'm sure, because the plane is a mid wing and the part of fuselage under the wing is cut out from the fuselage and glued to the wing. I'm sure the beam is to get the lost strength back and provide a good load path.
The wing has no main spar through the center section. The too panels are built and butt glued together. I didn't like this but went with it because the amount of redesign necessary to change it. I did glass the top and bottom with 2 layers of 4 once cloth and have had no problems even with extreme maneuvers and about 150 flights.
The gear installation is too weak. When you look at the plans you'll see what I mean. I added a piece of 5/32 ply running from the first bulkhead to the firewall and both sides, on top of the built up fuselage bottom plate and gear mount. I didn't like that the first and second bulkheads (front of wing/ back of wing) were only 3/32 balsa so I doubled both of them with 3/32 ply.
The horizontal and vertical and the control surfaces are all built up except the ailerons. They are huge pieces of construction lumber. I was going to throw them away and build up the ailerons but instead I cut 13, 1 7/8 inch holes in each one with a hole saw.
The wing is mounted with 4 bolts. The kit came with 4 nylon 3 1/2 inch bolts. They weren't quite long enough for the front. Only about 3 threads of engagement so I used 4 inch stove bolts in front.
The hardware that came with the kit is so so. I used some and some I didn't. The kit doesn't come with pull- pull for the rudder but recommends it. It's a must.
I considered replacing all the 3/32 sheeting with 1/16 to get the weight down but didn't do it because of the risk of getting a wavy sheeting job. I made liberal use of sandpaper and came out at 10lbs. 10oz. with 2 ounces of lead in the tail. I've heard reports of this thing at 12 to 12.5 lbs. Maybe I just do a lot more sanding.
The ST2300 will pull this thing out of a hover and reach flight control speed going straight up, but not like a rocket. The Moki should make rocket launch out of it. The ground clearance provides plenty of room for big props.
If you get one I'm sure you'll love it
Here's a previous write up I did.
Denis
----------
I have both the small Balsa Nova and the large one. They are both great flying planes and my favorite planes to fly. Naturally the large one flies better than the small one. For a high performance plane it is very forgiving and lands better than anything I have. Dead sticks are easy because it maintains good control at almost any speed. This plane never does any thing ugly or surprising even with extreme abuse of the sticks.
There are no foam or plastic parts in the construction. It is built up and completely sheeted with 3/32 balsa. The fuselage is a continues structure from the tail to the spinner. The cowl is built up but then glued to the fuselage. I didn't like that because it's a nuisance for engine installation so I made the cowl a bolt on unit. I use a Super Tigre 2300 (1.4) and it's a tight fit. With the Moki 1.6 I think the fiber glass cowl available as an extra may be a must. The Moki motor mount could be a problem also. Unless it's small in the back it might cause you to have to drop the thrust line a little.
The canopy and turtle deck are an integral part of the structure of the fuselage. As a matter of fact a curved lamented beam runs from the front of the canopy to the to the tail across the top. They did this, I'm sure, because the plane is a mid wing and the part of fuselage under the wing is cut out from the fuselage and glued to the wing. I'm sure the beam is to get the lost strength back and provide a good load path.
The wing has no main spar through the center section. The too panels are built and butt glued together. I didn't like this but went with it because the amount of redesign necessary to change it. I did glass the top and bottom with 2 layers of 4 once cloth and have had no problems even with extreme maneuvers and about 150 flights.
The gear installation is too weak. When you look at the plans you'll see what I mean. I added a piece of 5/32 ply running from the first bulkhead to the firewall and both sides, on top of the built up fuselage bottom plate and gear mount. I didn't like that the first and second bulkheads (front of wing/ back of wing) were only 3/32 balsa so I doubled both of them with 3/32 ply.
The horizontal and vertical and the control surfaces are all built up except the ailerons. They are huge pieces of construction lumber. I was going to throw them away and build up the ailerons but instead I cut 13, 1 7/8 inch holes in each one with a hole saw.
The wing is mounted with 4 bolts. The kit came with 4 nylon 3 1/2 inch bolts. They weren't quite long enough for the front. Only about 3 threads of engagement so I used 4 inch stove bolts in front.
The hardware that came with the kit is so so. I used some and some I didn't. The kit doesn't come with pull- pull for the rudder but recommends it. It's a must.
I considered replacing all the 3/32 sheeting with 1/16 to get the weight down but didn't do it because of the risk of getting a wavy sheeting job. I made liberal use of sandpaper and came out at 10lbs. 10oz. with 2 ounces of lead in the tail. I've heard reports of this thing at 12 to 12.5 lbs. Maybe I just do a lot more sanding.
The ST2300 will pull this thing out of a hover and reach flight control speed going straight up, but not like a rocket. The Moki should make rocket launch out of it. The ground clearance provides plenty of room for big props.
If you get one I'm sure you'll love it
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From: Castaic, CA
I used one large servo for the rudder and separate standard servos for each elevator half. I think putting a tube in the wing is probably a real good idea. I was just lazy to re-engineer it since the wing design doesn't lend itself to it. It still makes me nervous but it's got a lot of flights and I've really twisted it around. I used two layers of cloth so I could lay them on 45 deg to the joint and 90 deg from each other.
I've got about 400 flights on the little one with no wing problem and I glassed it the same way.
I've got about 400 flights on the little one with no wing problem and I glassed it the same way.
#4
Hey ATV
I just picked up one of these at a club auction for cheap. The guy said he was flying it on a ST90. That seems a little small to me for this plane. I see its set up for pull-pull rudder and sepoerate elevator serevos so guess I will go with that. What I need help with is CG location and reccomended throws. If you can tell me I would appreciate it. Also what do you think is a minimal engine for hover, it doesnt have to rocket out of hover but it would be nice to hover. Thanks.
I just picked up one of these at a club auction for cheap. The guy said he was flying it on a ST90. That seems a little small to me for this plane. I see its set up for pull-pull rudder and sepoerate elevator serevos so guess I will go with that. What I need help with is CG location and reccomended throws. If you can tell me I would appreciate it. Also what do you think is a minimal engine for hover, it doesnt have to rocket out of hover but it would be nice to hover. Thanks.
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From: Pana, IL
I bought a BalsaNova 120 with an 80" wing span at a swap meet. It weights 12 lbs 12 oz and is powered by a Satio 150. Has anyone had a similar setup and if so how did it fly? My plans shows the CG 5 1/4" back of the leading edge of the wing.
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From: Mesa,
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I have used several engines in my 4 BalsaNovas. Webra 120, Saito 120, MVVS 144, Moki 1.8 and OS 1.6. I am currently flying the 1.6 and am completely happy with it. The Moki and the OS are very compareable in power, but the Moki is soooo sensitive to low speed mixture adjustments. I have been using J'Tec engine mounts.
I would suggest moving the elevator hinge line forward an inch and extending the rudder an inch and a half (rearward). On my next one, I will probably move the elevator an inch and a half and put aero balancers on the ends.
I am using 2 elevator servos, a digital on the rudder.
I also tried the FG cowl but liked the balsa more, even with the reduced space. I have not beefed up the fuse like in the above posts and have experienced no problems.
I agree with the idea of a 2 piece wing.
This is a thoroughly enjoyable plane. The only one any better (that I have had) is the Funtana.
Enjoy, Dale
I would suggest moving the elevator hinge line forward an inch and extending the rudder an inch and a half (rearward). On my next one, I will probably move the elevator an inch and a half and put aero balancers on the ends.
I am using 2 elevator servos, a digital on the rudder.
I also tried the FG cowl but liked the balsa more, even with the reduced space. I have not beefed up the fuse like in the above posts and have experienced no problems.
I agree with the idea of a 2 piece wing.
This is a thoroughly enjoyable plane. The only one any better (that I have had) is the Funtana.
Enjoy, Dale
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From: Pana, IL
dalita
Thank you, I have one that weights 12 3/4 lbs powered by a Satio 150. I have been concerned how well it will fly at that weight and if the Satio will have enough power.
Thank you, I have one that weights 12 3/4 lbs powered by a Satio 150. I have been concerned how well it will fly at that weight and if the Satio will have enough power.
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From: Mesa,
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Mine will aggressively pull out of a hover with the OS 1.6 on 5% fuel. It will drag the tailwheel on landing. Just for fun, try to slip it in for a landing. Get about 150 ft. up, chop the throttle, give it full rudder, maintain the glide slope with aileron and elevator. Just before landing, release everything to level it out and land as normal. Dale
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From: Mesa,
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It flew on the wings. No hovering. Vertical was fair. Same with the MVVS twin 1.44. With the Webra 120, there was a slight improvement. To hover with authority the Moki or OS are called for. Dale
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From: Sulphur,
OK
hi
i haven't stared mine yet maybe next week but i thing about using a wing tube i have a stinger 1.20 with a 72" 1 piece wing and it can be a pain to work on and to transport. where would be the best place to get a tube and sleeve and what size do you recommend (dia and wall)
Thanks Guy
i haven't stared mine yet maybe next week but i thing about using a wing tube i have a stinger 1.20 with a 72" 1 piece wing and it can be a pain to work on and to transport. where would be the best place to get a tube and sleeve and what size do you recommend (dia and wall)
Thanks Guy
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From: Rio Rancho, NM,
I have an experimental tapered wing for fun fly planes that I have designed. Now i need a fuselage and the Balsa Nova 120 looks like a good place to start. Does anyone have a plans set that they have no further use for and would be willing let go for a reasonable price? I anticipate modifying the fuselage too so I would like not to have to pay very much.
Thanks,
Steve W.
Thanks,
Steve W.
#19
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From: Sulphur,
OK
I would sell mine but I still haven't started mine yet no time or when have time I'm flying I'm planning an starting it in about a week or so when I'm done I'll be glad to sell them cheep
#20
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I'm using a 7/8" X 24" aluminum tube and 15/16" phenolic tubes in the wing. This came from the "Gator" outfit in Missouri. I think TNT Landing Products also has the tube sets.
I have put 1/16" plywood doublers on the inboard wing ribs to increase the strengh for the tubes. Also added 1/2" X 3/8" bass wood pieces to the wing spars that will support the tubes.
This should provide enough strengh to handle the 2 piece wing.
FYI.
Ray
I have put 1/16" plywood doublers on the inboard wing ribs to increase the strengh for the tubes. Also added 1/2" X 3/8" bass wood pieces to the wing spars that will support the tubes.
This should provide enough strengh to handle the 2 piece wing.
FYI.
Ray
#21
CRD
It's been a while but I finally got to fly the B/Nova. Thanks for CG and throws that worked great. The plane wieghs about 10.8LB according to my digital fish scale ready to go. The 1.2 Thunder Tiger pro starts and runs smooth. Does everything my Pizzaz does but bigger and better. Better in knife edge of course. The TT 1.2 wont pull out of hover well maybe barely if conditions are just right. I hope it gains a little power after a few tanks if not I will just have to live with it. Again thanks for the set up info.
It's been a while but I finally got to fly the B/Nova. Thanks for CG and throws that worked great. The plane wieghs about 10.8LB according to my digital fish scale ready to go. The 1.2 Thunder Tiger pro starts and runs smooth. Does everything my Pizzaz does but bigger and better. Better in knife edge of course. The TT 1.2 wont pull out of hover well maybe barely if conditions are just right. I hope it gains a little power after a few tanks if not I will just have to live with it. Again thanks for the set up info.
#23
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