Hey guys...

I will have to set up the Morris pull pull system for my Sledge in a couple days and need some help. I have no clue where to start...There are no instructions for it in my manuel and I have never set up pull pull for anything before. Any websites? Instructions? Tips?

Any help is really appreciated. Thanks!

I'll put in my 2 cents. My gee whiz bee and pen knife had dashed lines on the plans indicating where to run the sleeves. If the sledge doesn't just put them in a straight line from servos to the control horns. notch the fuselage sticks where the sleeve will run enough for the sleeve to fit flush and under the sheeting. run the rudder on one side of the fuse and the elev on the other side. tack glue them in with ca. i put the fuse sheeting in place to mark where the sleeve will exit. mine exit at the wing trailing edge and around the leading edge of the tail. cut the exit holes and install sheeting. cut off the sleeves flush with the sheeting and your done.
I;m sure there are other ways but hope it helps.
CM

CM, Thanks for the reply.

I forgot to mention that. I've got all the tubes in already. The airplane is built, just needs to be sanded, covered, and put together.

Actually setting up the lines, clevis's, and all this is what I am wondering about.

Hi Brian,

I've used several suppliers systems, and made my own. I like the Dubro system best. RCM ran a really good article (is that an oxy-moron?) about setup, but the bottom line is "Symetrical Geometry" is what you need. exact same lenght of wire, spread on horns, etc. I have found it dificult to get it right so no slop occurs so I hope someone else has better details. If you want, I'll look up that RCM article.

Can you come to Tulsa for a Pro-Bro flyin?

Ok, apparently the directions for the Pull-pull always have been in my isntruction booklet. It's the directions for putting in the tubes...

The thing I don't understand is how the wires are connected to the servo arms and how the other end connects to the control horns. Can anyone help? Pictures would be great too.

Thanks!

I am, of course, an idiot. But my pull-pull works quite well.

You should have some 2-56 "rigging couplers" and some 2-56 steel clevises with 2-56 lock nuts. The rigging couplers are 2-56 thread rod about 1" long with small holes in one end. Connect the clevis to the control surface, and screw the rigging coupler into the clevis (with the nut on the threaded section of the rigging coupler).

Leave enough thread so you can tighten them later..don't bottom the threads out in the clevis, leave some for adjustment.

To connect the cable to the rigging coupler, thread it thru the crimp sleeve, thru the rigging coupler, and back thru the crimp sleeve. I did mine twice, lots of folks do it once with fine results.

When it is set, you will crimp the sleeve. I held mine with masking tape until ready to crimp.

This should get you thru the control surface end.

Figure 46 on page 27 shows a close up of the completed control horn end. Yous should look something like that.

BRW,

Is this what you are looking for?
The top one is actually a 4-40 Kevlar PP from Don's Hobby shop
The bottom one is a 4-40 dubro. The one included in the sledge kit is like the top picture. It uses an eye bolt into the clevis. Run the cable through the eye twice and then crimp it on with a swedge like the top picture.

Yours dosen't look like the manual..I don't want to confuse youn Grasshopper. Here is a shot from the manual.

It shows the cable, rigging coupler, locknut, clevis.

Now my Sledge didn't have any eyebolts..it had the ones like I showed in my pic. Sorry if I questioned your Sledge linkage..but I didn't have anything like in your pic (And I can see BRW now..waiting for me to permanently install his aileron servos! LOL)

Remember..I am an avowed idiot. I...Know...Nothing!! But mine looks like the manual. Whew!

Oh Yea that's right I went and put a Sulllivan Kevlar Pull-Pull on mine. Opps.
I guess I were to give BRW some advice, It would be to make sure the top & bottom or left & right, control horns are directly over the hinge line to prevent slack cable when deflected one way or the other.

Chuck,

That's great! Thanks

Wings, thank you too.

Any tips on the servo end?

And this is what I did...keep in mind I am an idiot, and my advise is suspect!

I used DuBro 618 4-40 Rigging Couplers to attach the cable, and DuBro 2139 Ball Links to attach the cables to the servo horns. I didn't want to just loop the cable thru the servo horn..looked like it would saw thru the plastic servo arm...so I isolated the cable via the 618s/2139s. This gave me adjustment on the servo end as well.

This is the end that I didn't see in the instructions, but being an idiot I forged ahead as best I could. Probably overkill, but they are still as tight as the day I hooked them up. I like ball links, and hey! It's only...money!

If you REALLY want me to drag my plane over this scanner, I'll give you a pic. Shoot, I might as well start clearing stuff off now!

Not too spiffy, probably overkill, more money than you want to spend. But they don't call me an idiot for nothing!

If Morris would send me my stinkin tubes I could put mine in.

Great info. Even though I ran Pushrods on my Sudokhoi, I am going to try pull pull with my Knife.

Pull pull had me stumped for days on my Knife. I was afraid to do anything because I had never done it before. Once you get going you will see how simple it is. It is just intimadating to begin but that's why they are so cool on the flight line.

Thanks Billy!!

Chuck,

That's great. I really appreciate it, that's a big help! I'll see if my LHS has some of that stuff...

jmulder, I got to send me some other tubes. They are bigger, but will work.

I just need to go cover the wing, hinge the ailerons, and glue it all. Then I'm ready for the engine and radio equipment... It's all sitting on the shelf ready to go.

If anyone else has pictures of any part of their setups, it would be a big help.

Thanks!

Did Morris send em to you? I was a bit pissed with my kit. I didnt have the tubes but they did write a note about them and then I didnt have all the wood I needed to build everything. I had some 1/4 x 1/4 stock left over though.

Hey if you guys want to make the set up even simpler....eliminate the crimps for securing the wire and just loop it around itself 3 or 4 times and then melt the plastis shrouding for the cable together with a lighter or small torch...it doesnt take much heat and will never break or pull apart. After having several cables break at the crimp we came up with this idea and havent had one failure yet....and the setup is being used on unlimited competition setting NCFFA records so i think we have tested the strength of the connection as far as we can. Just be careful melting the cables together and not melting your covering.

I finally got my tubes in the mail.

I wonder if they will send them to me...