lomcevek1

OK I test flew the sledge this weekend, and I had some problems with the flight characteristics. It had a bad habbit of snap rolling with a little elevator, did not want to glide, was really wiggley in a harrier but hovered well.

I have yet to check the CG or to see if the wing is warped but that will happen later. We had our three day contest and I am airplaned out. (2nd place patern, second place IMAC )

One more thing I had MAJOR problems getting the MVVS to run right just could not get it to run right I have two and same problems with both

JWilliams

My Feedback: (6)

A little elevator and it snaps? That is a new one on me. Sounds like a twisted wing but purely speculation. Hard to say without flying and personally looking at it. My favorite CG location is just behind the secondary spar. The MVVS engines do not like more than 5% nitro, also use a glow plug without an idle bar. Hang in there Brian, the sledge normally performs like you thought it would. Jeff W.

ryansdad40

Hi my sledge does this too,, if you pull up a little hard it snaps over,, my sledge is strait,, not warped,, im a 30 rc pilot and builder,, along with being a cropduster in the full scale,, so i know planes,, but mine does this too,, its called an accelerated stall,, see an airplane will stall at any speed or attitude,, if too much is asked of the wing
now dont get me wrong cuz the sledge is a blast,, its my favorite one,, if i had to choose just 1 plane in my fleet of 19,, this is the one id keep!
jeff w told me in the past to couple flaps and elev,, i did this as well as gap seals,, did not correct the problem still drops wing in a slightly hard pull up????????????
others say they can wall this plane hard with no snap,, i guarantee mine dont do that there is either a cure that we need,, or thats just how they fly??
now i know jeff w will beable to help if anyone can,, so now that theres 2 of us,, jeff HELP please!!!!

jmulder

My Feedback: (6)

Mine flew ok. Sold it yesterday. I plan on building another one. This time I will hand pick my own wood........John

lomcevek1

I was trying to think secondary spar What??? then I remembered the spars are sandwiched chordwise. My CG is about an inch behind the secondary spar. That would explain almost all of the flight problems. Of course it is going to snap with a CG that far aft!!! I will move it forward some. I am not sure of where I got the one inch behind it might be from my OMP edge.

As far as the engine I have done both things wrong. I was using an idle bar and 15% nitro. I am not sure where I will be able to get anything lower short of mail order (Sometimes alaska sucks). I will keep you posted on how these changes affect the flight. I am really looking forward to a 3D animal.

Daryl Martel

My Feedback: (3)

I ordered a Sledge short kit from Morris and expect it to show up this week. I was beginning to wonder if I'd made a mistake!

lomcevek1

From what everyone has said it is the BEST 3D machine around for a 40 sized airplane!!!!! I am just working out a few minor bugs. Like I said I will try to move the CG forward and let you know most likely in a day or two. OK

stomper

My Feedback: (20)

I just built the sledge wing for Badandy for one of his projects( his school bus plane ) and will be starting my Sledge 540 soon with contest grade balsa. I will keep the recommended CG in mine. Thanks Jeff.

Doug

TailTwister

My Feedback: (1)

For the fuel issue, maybe you could contact Morris for a head shim or two, then burn your 15% fuel.

Yesterday was my first flights with the Sledge, and I didn't feel any snaps or accelerated stalls with the recommended throws. My CG is behind where the plans say to put it. All my hinges are sealed to help with efficiency.

I had not tried any harriers (not my forte'). I did lots of other stuff, including some really tight loops (inside and outside) and felt the elevator was good and solid.

ChuckAuger

My Feedback: (12)

Mine was a little touchy in the wall, and I noticed my right aileron was up a little higher than the left. I made a gauge like the SE so I could check to see that each aileron was the same..had to lower the right aileron about 3 turns on the clevis. Made a lot of difference in how hard I could pull a wall.

Texas 3D

My Feedback: (16)

I think Chucky has a good and valid point here. Check als your Aileron settings !

jmulder

My Feedback: (6)

Morris sells a short kit ?????? I wonder if I could just buy the precut pieces and thats it????.........John

krayzc-RCU

My Feedback: (31)

r we talking about snaping on high/low rates?
my low is 10 high is 40 degrees

BotleRocketWar

I am a terrible builder and gawd-awful pilot, but mine won't snap NO MATTER WHAT. I commonly do those full throttle take-offs with the most abrubt pull up that is possible. Walls and parachutes are a daily thing...No snapping no matter what. My CG is right where the plywood fuselage sheeting ends.

Do they really sell a short kit? If they do, I might do another one. I replaced all that crappy wood anyway... What does that short kit go for?

Another thing to check for the snapping is your elevator. Both sides lined up, straight, and even? Will they flex easily?

Daryl Martel

My Feedback: (3)

Regular price $30 - special deal for Profile Brothers available (wink wink nudge nudge). Includes plans, instructions and ribs. Good deal I think.

BotleRocketWar

Just the ribs? What about the forward fuselage, landing gear mounts, canopy, and all those cut parts for the fuselage?

stomper

My Feedback: (20)

That would be called a kit.
Do you have access to a band saw or even a jig saw? Once you have the plans, you can use tracing paper over the plans to make a copy of the needed part, then lay that over the wood or over template material and just cut the needed part out. It really is just that simple.

Agood source for balsa is Lone Star Balsa>
http://www.lonestar-models.com/


Doug

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Mines in the bones... and will set a while...

I recently put together a CG Extreme and am REALLY impressed by it.... very agile, aerobtati and responsive... And at $150 ALREADY PUT TOGETHER... a good value. A tad heavy at 5 lbs, but no problem at all for the Saito .72... Flatspins, hovers, elevators, KE Spins really nicely.

I did a review of it for RCU and it should be up soon.

I'd say the only thing I dislike about the sledge is that horrible flat leading edge.

I put alot of time in it, but still can't get it anywhere near a round LE... I'm sure it flies great, but I can get over the look of that "2x4" looking LE....

I know Jwilliams said he intended it be another way too, but Morris Hobbies insisted. I can't help but wonder what it might do with a nice rounded LE...

ChuckAuger

My Feedback: (12)

It flies great with the rounded LE, I highly recommend it!



There is more info in This Thread]

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Certainly to be commended...

In that same thread tho I shared a pic of my LE before I capped the end rib.

There really isn't much material left of the sheeting as it is, and I'd rather scrap the whole project than sand it down paper thin.

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

It's really a shame that Morris didn't go with a 1/8"sub-LE for the sheeting to lay on then cp the fron with solid balsa...

It's a very strong design and allows MUCH more flexibility in the LE shape.

Somthing like this:

jack01

My Feedback: (3)

I would do what Chuck said, and check the ailerons first. If they are not off any, then here's my $.02 worth.

Something that I learned when learning to wall and parachute with my 40%, and watching others, is that almost any aerobatic plane will try snap if put into the right situation. Some may be more abrupt than others, but it still happens. I learned that to get my 40% to do a wall properly, I had to come in at the right speed, and hit the power as soon as I begin to pull up. I also have to pull the stick fast, not slow. This is just for my plane though, every plane is different, so it will take some experimentation. What I found, was that I had to get it to pull to vertical as fast as possible. If I pulled up too slow, it would snap, or slower still, it would be just an abrupt pull up, and not a wall. I had to make sure that I didn't give the plane time to snap before both wings were fully stalled. When I flew a friend's Sledge, it showed the same behavior, and when I setup another friend's 33% Extra it did the same thing. Trainers aren't supposed to snap, but I've seen a few nervous students panic and pull up too hard without enough power and speed, and snap one in.

Hope this helps!

ChuckAuger

My Feedback: (12)

Here is a pic (I'm not too good in Photoshop ) that shows where I would remove wood to obtain the rounded LE.. Yo will see I didn't get into the sheeting hardly at all, just the 1/4" LE stock. I did it, and Gator did it, and neither one of us added any wood. Me LE is not so fragile it breaks when you pick the plane up. Hasn't broken in flight, nor from a few cartwheel-type contacts.

krayzc-RCU

My Feedback: (31)

looks sweet mine looks like its not ready for a training bra yet

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

My 1/4" leading edge was only rounded... I never removed any foremost wood, so the lines you added are in "thin air"...

Perhaps it really should come with 3/8" or even 1/2" leading edge... Then a fella would have more room to work with.

Oh well..

All this has made me look at the whole thing and decide to sell it... I'll be placing it in the classifieds for $170 if anyone's intersted.

Pretty much ready to cover... just need to put in the hatches and wing servo rails.

in fact... here's the link:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/showthread...01&forumid=238]