Kevin Matney

My Feedback: (1)

I start with a layer of 2oz glass, then my 4.3 oz uni carbon. Then last my 6 oz glass

Kevin Matney

My Feedback: (1)

What I do for lay up
1 / Fill all corner with a mix of epoxy ,cabosil and cotton floc. And 12k carbon tow in nose ring, wing saddle.
2/ a layer of 2 oz glass.
3/ patch of 4.3 uni carbon.
4/ Last a full layer of 6 oz

D.E.

Well back from the Doc and it is time to lay up a tail,

#1 Cut the wood that will be used in the skin I use 1/32 balsa I made a template to trace around.

#2 Make sure it fits

#3 Use the template to cut all of the glass I use 1.4 oz with a doubler in the middle

#4 All of the stuff.

D.E.

Next,

#1 Put thickened epoxy around edges,

#2 I use a 1.4 oz doubler in the center.

#3 Then a full layer of 1.4 oz.

#4 I then put the 1.7 oz. kevlar hinge material in measuring to make sure the hinge line is covered.

#5 Then a piece of 1/2 oz carbon mat to stiffen the elevator halves.

D.E.

Next,

On pic #5 in last post I didnt mention not to let the 1/2 oz carbon mat overlap where the hinge line will be as it will make elevator movement to stiff.

#1 Put wood in.

#2 I use a piece of 3/8 x .007 carbon for spar cap, measure to make sure it is in same place on both halves.

#3 Then put a layer of 1.4 overall

D.E.

Ready to go in the bag,

#1 Add a layer of release film it has tiny holes in it to allow excess epoxy to be absorbed by the breather fabric.

#2 Breather fabric on top.

#3 I just use Tub and Tile calk to seal the bag ends

#4 Pull a vacuum if you look closley you can see the excess epoxy getting soaked up.

#5 About 20" of vacuum

Tomorrow we will finish the stabilizer and fuse, I would lay up a wing but I need to buy more materials from Aircraft Spruce!!!!

Dave E.

kommander

Is anything done to form the rudder hinge?

Scorpion Racing

I was wondering that also Dave. Have you ever tried laying a strip of Kevlar on the right side of the rudder for a hinge? Or, is it really not necessary for the rudder? I assume it will last a good long time without it, just wondering if it would benefit anything. Also, have you ever tried nylon instead of the Kevlar? I have seen that done too.

Kevin, I am assuming your wet lap seam is created when you trim the first layer of cloth just before you join the halves? If that is true, how do you get the partially cured glass to adhere without voids? I have only done it a few times on my quickies, and what I did was create the wet lap seam in the last layer of glass, butter the edges of the joints around the fuselage with the carb-o-sil thickened resin, and smooth it down from the inside with a brush on a stick. I would love to know your method!

Great thread Dave, I can't wait to see it done!

D.E.

Kommander and Scott,

On this model I use a wood tailpost when I join the fuse halves and then hinge in that. With the rudder linkage covers I need the hinges to be centered so there is no binding.

Flyngfrog,

Sorry I didnt answer you sooner but your PVA problem sounds like you put it on to thick to begin with. It needs to go on very very lightly on the first two or three coats let that dry and then a wet coat. Also the wax needs to be either for mold release or pure carnuba wax.And yes I did the same thing a time or two. Also it helps to thin it with 10% water before you spray.

Dave E.

D.E.

Well back to it this morning I am going to finish the stabilizer and this afternoon join the fuse.


#1 I pulled the halves out of the bag and carefully trimed around the edges.

#2 Then I mark the centerline.

#3 After that I drew in the elevator halves.

D.E.

Next,

#1 Take a razor blade and cut a V along where you want your hinge line to be, Try to just cut through the wood although it is hard to cut through the kevlar it can be done and that would ruin that stab.

#2 Fold up a piece of sandpaper and run it along the hinge line.

#3 This is the elevator joiner we use Jim Allen showed me how to make this.

#4 Red locktite is used to put the ball link and set screw together. On this model the control horn protrudes into the sub fin it is very tite down there so care must be taken to make sure it is centered

D.E.

Next,

#1&2 Measure for spar I use a caliper to measure from the ruler to the surface and subtract the thicknes of the ruler. Do this in same spot on both halves and add together for your thickness. Do center and both ends.

#3 Next I CA the spar to the top half of the mold and use some small balls of clay to check my clearance.

#4 After the mold halves are squeezed together pull them apart and see how thick the clay is.

D.E.

Next,

#1 I put a spreader in front of where the elevator halves will be cut lose to stiffen that area and one just behind elevator joiner.

#2 & 3 Squeeze a bead of cab-o-sil and epoxy mix on all edges and spars. Dont get to carried away as this can add lots of weight.

#4 All joined up .

Later this afternoon I will jointhefuse , Stay Tuned!

Dave E.

D.E.

OK I joined the fuselage,

#1 Shaped a tailpost and centered it where rudder hingeline will be.

#2 cut some one inch wide strips of 6 oz. pre wet them and stuck half on top of one side and half on the bottom of the other side. I also put the epoxy mix all the way around and around the vertical stab and tailpost.

#3 Mold halves are screwed together.

#4 Open it up tomorrow just like christmas.


Tomorrow I will show what comes out and then I am going to lay up another fuse. I wont post that as we already did that, next weekend we will do a complete wing and then start assembly.

Dave E.

aseaholm

My Feedback: (1)

Great thread Dave.

Who's the guy with old man hands helping you?

D.E.

HEY I RESEMBLE THAT REMARK!!!

good to here from you A.J.

DE

BUDMAN27

is it tomorrow yet ?

D.E.

Well its christmas morning, lets see what I got.

#1 The glove is for A.J. so he doesnt have to see my old man hands Hey I am an old man! I use a flexable putty knife to help pry the molds apart.

#2 The first half always comes off eaisythe second half can be a pain, just take your time flex the part a little andwhen it is ready.

#3 It pops out. If I didnt put the largeish fillets on it it would be easy.

#4 Nice!

Scorpion Racing

Looks GREAT Dave!

D.E.

Next


#1 Next I take out the stab. It pops out nicely.

#2 The raw fuse on scale 7.0 oz.

#3 Stab on scale, my goal is for the fuse with firewall, motor mount, stab, pushrods and paint to be 15 oz. This one should be there.

#4 Clean molds and make another. I need three done by the June race at the basin, No honey dos this month.

Dave E.

Randy Etken

My Feedback: (10)

Hi Dave
Just a suggestion , I use masking tape on the mold flanges before I paint or in your case spray the primer. Sure saves a lot of time in clean up. Enjoying your project.

D.E.

Hey Randy,

Thanks for the idea, I have seem that done in other threads but as I use PVA it all just blows out with air. I hope to someday make a good set of molds with a machined aluminum wing mold ( Jim Allen has a set of airfoils designed we want to try ) then I can paint in the mold and save alot of time.

Scott, How is your project coming? That is a good looking airplane you are modeling.

Well #2 is in the molds.

Dave E.

Scorpion Racing

Thanks Dave, I am glassing the fuselage plug and working on the main wing. I am having a little trouble with the muffler placement; I am trying to build some sort of a fixture to hold the muffler in the right place (based on the spinner back-plate placement) to do the final fit. As soon as I can get that and the main wing finished, it off to finishing school!

D.E.

I know what you mean Scott that muffler placement thing is tough. It took me making another plug and mold because I wasnt careful enough there. Take your time and make sure.

Well while I was waiting for the next fuse to green up I put the firewall and mount in the first one.

#1 I should have shown this earlier, this is what I started with on this project. It is the original sketches of the full size AR6 that Gary Schmidt got from the designer Mike Arnold. I hope they show up ok.

#2 I have a molded in recess where the cover goes I just leave a 3/16 lip all around.

#3 Cut outs done.

D.E.

Next,

#1 I have a template to mark out firewall.

#2 cut out firewall.

#3 This is the motor mount I use, it is from Lee VonDerHey and it is really nice.

#4 I have an old cracked engine case to use as a mock up.