Can anyone share some thoughts how to mount the V-tail so everything is aligning.
Planing to make a fixture like a V-block that is 110 degrees for gluing them together first.

Thanks

Per_N, Here's a way to set your V tail onto the fuselage,,,


Set fuselage on a level surface. Set wing into saddle and center it and secure the wing to the fuselage. THIS NEXT STEP IS IMPORTANT,,, using the robart incidence meter, level out the wing by using small blocks of wood underneath the fuselage to achieve ZERO degrees on the meter. NEXT, using a small leveling bubble, set the bubble in the V tail and level out the bubble by shifting the V tail around a little bit. HERE’S ANOTHER TRICKY PART,,, level out the V tail tips with a ruler to achieve equal distance from the bench to the tips of the V tail. When the bubble is centered and the V tail tips are equal, TACK the V tail to the fuselage with some CA. RE-Check V tail alignment to make sure its sitting squarely on the fuselage tail. once you are satisfied, go back to the inside of the fuselage, underneath the V tail, using some lite fiberglass and epoxy, glue in the “V” tail to the fuselage.

Hope that helps you


BV

Thank's Bill
Thats is about what i have in mind, haven't thought about the fiberglass inside, thank's for that.
By the way, what type of fiberglass do you put on the v-tail 0,6 oz or 1,5 oz ? both sides or what.
I planning to do fiberglass hinges like the ones Davens posted for his wing a while ago. Do you have any tips for me here, I have never tried this before.....

Thank's

Regards Per

I have a question about the incidence meter. How many do you use (Ex....1 for each side?). Also where on the wing do you put the meter. I guess in theory it wouldn't matter, but would it be better toward the wing tip, middle, or by the saddle.

Thanks in advance

Mikey D

MD, I normally put my incedence meter as close to the fuselage as possible.

Per_N, 1.5oz cloth is plenty. Also you might want to practice on some scrap wood before attempting Daven's Hinge method. Its always best to experiment on scrap wood than on the plane



BV

Bill
So is your suggestion that I use 0,6 oz, even for the fiberglass hinge?

Per_N, .6oz cloth might be a little on the lite side. I would use the 1.5oz and don t forget to lay the cloth up at a 45 degree angle to the hinge line.

BV

Remember, if the v-tail saddle was cut paralell to the thrust line when you were cutting out the shape of the fuselage, negative incidence will result because of the taper of the fuse. An incidence meter is the best bet to correct any deviations.

Regarding the bubble level in the crotch of the v-tail, I've struggled to identify where it should rest since the v-tail has an airfoil shape. Still haven't solved that one.

I do basically the same thing as Bill. However, when I check wing incedence I check it just out side of the ailerons towards the tips. My thinking is that the incedence out towards the tips, will have a greater effect on how the plane flies than it will towards the fuze.

I also check both sides, and if there is a slight discrepancy from side to side, I split the difference. Typically it will be less than 1degree from side to side.

I use a bubble level as does bill. It can be tricky with the airfoil, but I mark off a small area towards the center of the V-tail with ballpoint pen, and am carefull that I do not sand in that area while I am sanding the airfoil on the tail.

If you are a little carefull, you can avoid sanding this area much.

If you will note,,, The "X" in the box is the area that should not be sanded on. Thats also the place to put the "bubble" on when setting Tail incedence.

The other lines are used as guides while sanding


BV

What i can see you are making the tail in one piece. Thats really smart, the "X" are really close to the center, i guess when you have glued them together in a V-tail there are not much room to put the bubbles on, must be a small one.
All the lines? some for the rudders but the others? maybe you getting to that later. Can't wait to see more......

Thank's Bill

Per_N, Looking at the Elevator pic above ,,, those vertical lines on the Leading edge (LE), sand them down back towards the first Horizontal Line and stop there. Flip it around and sand the Trailing Edge (TE) vertical lines back towards the horizontal line and stop there. Now go to the ends and shape those too.

Using those Vertical lines as a reference for sanding, you'll be able to shape the Balsa tail a little easier. Once that is done, I glass the entire tail and sand again when its cured. Then I cut the Elevator in half and Epoxy the 2 halfs together at 110 degrees. Also at the same time I'll add a peice of fiberglass cloth in the center.


BV

I put this plane sorta together these last few days,,, inbetween making kits,,, to help out those with questions on how to use the "bubble method" when setting up the V tail


BV

Here's a pic of the Robart Incedence Meter on the wing.

I prefer to use the bubble here vise the meter to keep consistant with the V Tail bubble


BV

Here's the V Tail with the "bubble" there at the center of the elevator. Remember that "X" in the box in the pic above ( post 10 ), thats where the "bubble" is sitting now

To properly get the V tail centered and level your going to have to sand a little bit there ON The Inside of the V tail saddle. Keep making those small sanding adjustments to the saddle until the V tail bubble indicates a level reading.

Using a piece of string, tie it to a straight pin. Using the center line of the wing,,, See pic of wing & incedence meter and NOTE the center line,,, push the pin down into the wing ON the center line. Next, run the string out to one of the tips of the V tail and make a mark on the string,,, Now go over to the other side and make another mark on the string. The Idea here is to match the tips to ONE mark on the string. Once that is done, go to the front of the plane and look across the top of the wing and match the V tail tips to the top surface of the wing. Once satisfied that the tips are squared on the string, the bubble is level and the tips again are on the same plane as the wing,,, tack it down with some CA,,, go back under and epoxy.


If you have ???'s fire away and I'll help you out as much as I can from here


BV

Bill this posts are really helping me out!! When i see your pictures of the fuselages (the sides) i'l be a little confused that i have taken to thin. Mine is 1/8 balsa, i guess you have 3/16 or maybe thicker. Have i taken to thin? I have in mind to glass the whole plain when finished.

Per_N, 3/16 is what I use. 1/8 should be ok for glassing,,,



BV

Bill
Should you have skinned fiberglass hinge on this tail? If you should I thought this should be done before gluing them together in a V-tail.
Maybe this come later,,,

Per

Per-N,

If you look closely at Bills Tail, you can see that it is fiberglassed. I assume bill already has the torque rods inserted underneath, and just needs to cut the aileron out. The hinge is already there.

Yes, I see that is fiberglassed already but I thought it should be possible to something trow the glass. I hope he post a closer picture.
I post a picture how i have marked up mine. I wonder a bit how much the distance must be between the edge that is against the other tail and to wards the beginning of the rudder. And also if it's critical how long the rudder is.

All thats left here is to epoxy in the Elevators Torque Rods and cut the ends

BV

All most finished,,, just needs a finish sand job and its ready for some Polyurethane paint

BV

In this pic I am pushing on the ball links to show some deflection


BV

Bill
Thanks for the great Pic's. I noticed the torque rod is actually in the groove (as opposed to slightly recessed in the elevator itself)
Approx. how wide is the groove to compensate for the potential bind on the down elevator.

I use very little down elevator on my setup, so perhaps the potential binding on the down elevator is a non-issue.

BTW, are you going to Phoenix??


Mikey D

Hi Mikey, the groove is approx 3/16 wide and the TQ rod is 4-40. So binding is not a problem,,, so long as you keep the groove a little bigger than the TQ rod.

YES! I plan on Phx also,,, I need to collect some more "coldies" from RB


BV