basmntdweller

My Feedback: (9)

Which way ends up being more work, buying the RTC version and glassing the whole thing and covering or buying the ARF and modding it to get it up to standards? I'm not real fond of the idea of glassing the wing and fuse completely, but with the tail needing strengthening anyway,,,
I know the RTC version will cost me more by the time I get the glassing supplies and the covering. Does the fuse have to be covered after glassing? Could I just shoot some fuelproof paint on it or even leave it natural? The few times I have tried to cover over a glassed surface, it never turned out well.

Is there an accurate measurement that I can recut the stab mount area to correct the elevator trim issues?


Thanks, Matt

flyngfrog

Hi Matt,
The racers I've built has been glassed and painted with poliurethane paint. This is fuel proof. I don't recommend you to cover after glassing.
For the elevator trimming you can set the plane on level table, check 0 degrees for firewall and wing. then put the stab in place and the leading edge and trailing edge should be at same height (measuring both at same distance from the center line). The wing level can be checked same way and with an angle meter.
good luck!

Jose

Giant

After all the reinforcements I cover mine with 3/4 oz cloth and the paint with Rustoliun rattle cans. Good finish and fuel proof. But best of all, CHEEP.

Bozarth

My Feedback: (15)

I always glass balsa quickie fuselages, including 4 or 5 Vipers, and then cover them with either Monokote or Ultracote with no problems at all. I glass, trim the edges, lightly sand, and then start covering. You can hardly see the weave.

Kurt

DMyer

My Feedback: (2)

IMHO - for 424 it dosn't make any difference except for cold ones chit chat. I can prep an ARF Viper ready for 424/428 speeds in less than 1 day. I - 1) strengthen the firewall, 2) throw away the balsa hatch and replace with ply, 3) pin the nose, 4) add ply reinforcement to landing gear block, 5) replace wing bolts with 1/4" nylon bolts, 6) make a proper wing saddle and pot it and 7) glue on the tail at proper incidence and chuck bolts.

If I was going to care enough about glassing and painting a quickie - I would use a better airframe then the viper like a woodie hurikane, seeker or vortex.

dan

Bozarth

My Feedback: (15)

I think you are missing the point on glassing.

Kurt

basmntdweller

My Feedback: (9)

When you glass, are you using epoxy resin or fiberglass resin? I have always used laminating epoxy but really hate the mess which will be the same either way.

Matt

daven

My Feedback: (1)

I use epoxy finishing resin, I believe you meant Polyester not "fiberglass" resin???

Laminating epoxy works fine, or Z-poxy finishing resin works well also.

I prefer fiberglass and paint to plastic covering. The glass strengthens the fuse and gives you a good surface for paint.

basmntdweller

My Feedback: (9)

How about the wing? Glass and paint or does it need covering. I'm guessing I'll be canceling my order for a white ARF tomorrow and ordering one of the ARC versions along with some 3/4oz cloth.

Matt

DMyer

My Feedback: (2)

Actually the question was - which is more work - modding the ARF Viper or Glassing a ARC Viper.... I thought I answered that exactly... IMO it still is a waste of time to glass/paint a Viper when less work will achieve the exact same flight results. I do not have time to waste and prefer to spend what little I have trimming for racing.... other people may have other priorities however.


dan

daven

My Feedback: (1)

I don't disagree with your answer Dan, I just don't care for wrinkly plastic coverings.

I spent a couple hours working some wrinkles out of Viper wing that I am using and had it looking pretty good. A month later, it appears a few of them have come back, ergg.

Nice thing about glass and paint is you don't have to worry about them, but thats just a matter of preference for me. A local quickie tends to last at least a couple years for me, so I like to do it right the first time. I see guys tear up 8-10 quickies every summer, I suppose a Viper would be just fine for me if that was the case also.

DMyer

My Feedback: (2)

Dave - I know exactly what you mean.... if I build from scratch I will glass and paint. Me and the Kid are going into our third year with our current wrinkly Viper collection! I just hit them once a year with the gun and iron for 10 minutes.


dan

diggs_74

8-10 a year!! Who could kill that many quickies?? - I still glass and paint, it leaves a nice witness mark on the #3 pole so I can tell how close I am to missing it....

daven

My Feedback: (1)

I would have put you in the 5-6 quickie a summer club Lee

I won't mention those in the double digit club, ha ha.

diggs_74

I'm hoping to lessen that number considerably this year..

daven

My Feedback: (1)

use a 10x7, its easier out front

basmntdweller

My Feedback: (9)

I got a RTC Viper today. I read through the Viper mods thread but I don't recall how people were strengthening the tail of the fuse. I was thinking epoxying on some of that .007 carbonfiber sheet on each side of the fuse, fore and aft of the front edge of the stab cutout. Maybe 4 or 5" total length. I thought maybe use the recess method for skin hinges to recess the CF a little to keep it flush with the rest of the fuse. Maybe a little on the bottom of the fuse as well. If there is a better way, let me know.
Do the stab halves need glassed or are they good out of the kit. I remember having to glass my RacerII stab and ended up with some coke can on my Predator tails.

Thanks, Matt

DMyer

My Feedback: (2)

If anything you only need some 2 oz glass on both sides. I do not add anything personally. I do however chuck the tail bolts and epoxy the tail on with a good glue joint on the front and back of the saddle so it ties the top of the fuse and tail together as one unit. That adds a lot of strength. If there is a gap between the front and rear tail filler piece and the fuse I just add a bit of filler balsa until it fits perfect. I have never had the tail break on a landing by just gluing the tail on. Now if you beat the thing to death generally on landings... the landing gear is the first part that will depart - strengthen the LG block by adding more ply to tie it into the front and rear bottom fuse as well as sides - a little goes a long ways. Good luck.