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Rustoleum Paint reaction on Solartex

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Old 12-16-2015, 02:08 PM
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Default Rustoleum Paint reaction on Solartex

Just did some test patterns using Rustoleum Enamel on Solartex covering. First color no problem but using the second color (also Enamel), the paint had a reaction and looked like aligator skin. The first coat dried overnight. There is no contamination on the solartex it has only been tacked off with a new tac cloth just like the first coat.

Has anyone had this problem with Rustoleum? Any ideas or other paint Ideas except Latex would be greatly appriciated. The plane is a 1/5 scale Pica Waco
Old 12-16-2015, 02:15 PM
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were both colors the same type of rustoleum paint?
Old 12-16-2015, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by jeffo
were both colors the same type of rustoleum paint?
Yes, both Rustoleum enamel.
Old 12-16-2015, 02:38 PM
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Did you put one color over the other? Rustoleum specifies curing for couple days before recessing.
Old 12-16-2015, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by R8893
Did you put one color over the other? Rustoleum specifies curing for couple days before recessing.
Yes I did, I let the first coat dry overnight....I'll try a 3 day test.

Thank you
Old 12-17-2015, 02:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 20181c
Yes I did, I let the first coat dry overnight....I'll try a 3 day test.

Thank you

I've painted several Solatrtex covered models without encountering your problem.

I wait a week before I spray the second color. In my opinion, even 3 days is not long enough.
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Old 12-17-2015, 03:32 AM
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Originally Posted by TomCrump
I've painted several Solatrtex covered models without encountering your problem.

I wait a week before I spray the second color. In my opinion, even 3 days is not long enough.
Nice looking hanger Tom...A week it is, thanks for your help!

Del
Old 12-17-2015, 04:12 AM
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It's hard to wait that week, but it's worth it.
Old 12-17-2015, 07:22 AM
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I've gotten a few cans of Rustoleum where the first bit of spray comes out very granular on the surface like the paint dried in the air before it hit the surface. After spraying a bit it clears up and sprays normally. This has happened to me on regular wooden surfaces. I don't know if its a propellant issue a mixing issue. Its happened to me on more than on occasion.
Old 12-18-2015, 04:17 AM
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Originally Posted by ron12901
I've gotten a few cans of Rustoleum where the first bit of spray comes out very granular on the surface like the paint dried in the air before it hit the surface. After spraying a bit it clears up and sprays normally. This has happened to me on regular wooden surfaces. I don't know if its a propellant issue a mixing issue. Its happened to me on more than on occasion.
Im getting a clean spray I think Tom found the problem and I need to let the paint dry for a week instead of overnight. I will post the results.

Thanks,
Old 12-18-2015, 12:10 PM
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Yes, Tom is correct. Let it dry ( cure ) as long as you can. It makes a difference.
Old 12-18-2015, 12:14 PM
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Just curious, why not latex? With a clear coat it's fuel proof.
Old 12-18-2015, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by raptureboy
Just curious, why not latex? With a clear coat it's fuel proof.
Pigments in latex paint are not ground to the same standards as industrial enamals such as Rustoleum. The particle size is larger. If you know what to look for, you can easily spot a model painted with latex.

I used to manufacture latex paint. Therefore I could get it for "free". I never used it on one of my models because I didn't like the way it looks on models.

Just my opinion, of course.

For inexpensive paint jobs, I go with Rustoleum. When I want a better finish, I use PPG automotive paints, like on my Ryan Brougham, pictured below.
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Old 12-19-2015, 02:03 AM
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O.K.Tom,I took the bait,stunning workmanship as usual.jeffo
Old 12-19-2015, 04:03 AM
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Originally Posted by raptureboy
Just curious, why not latex? With a clear coat it's fuel proof.
I will try Latex sometime but on this project I am using Rustoleum.
Old 12-20-2015, 07:15 AM
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On every can of rattle can enamel I've ever bought, there is a guide on the back that gives the recoat times. There is a window of opportunity after the solvent has flashed off but before the paint starts to cure when the next coat will rewet the previous one and will chemically become one with it. Then there is a time when you can't recoat when the paint can't be rewetted but also isn't finished degassing and so it will lift the next coat over it. Then after that time recoating requires sanding beforehand to give the surface some tooth so the next coat can stick via mechanical bond. It sounds like you sprayed the second coat during that middle time after the chance to rewet the paint had passed but before it was finished drying completely.
Old 12-21-2015, 05:27 PM
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This is Rustoleum over Solartex. As mentioned, wait a few days between coats. I have had good luck with this paint up to 10% nitro.
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Old 12-22-2015, 04:30 AM
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Originally Posted by TomCrump
I've painted several Solatrtex covered models without encountering your problem.

I wait a week before I spray the second color. In my opinion, even 3 days is not long enough.
You were correct, I waited 7 days and sprayed over the first color and it came out perfect.

Thanks Tom,
Old 12-22-2015, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by 20181c
You were correct, I waited 7 days and sprayed over the first color and it came out perfect.

Thanks Tom,
I'm glad that I could help. Sometimes, patience s the key to success.

On the other hand, I use CA because I can't wait for wood glue to dry.
Old 12-27-2015, 10:13 PM
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Rustoleum paint is not the only paint that will blister it's second coats many will do that because it reactivates the paint causing a crinkle look. One way to eliminate it is to read the instructions on the can as well as the temperatures, of all paints. Laytex will not react the same way but can be lifted if being brushed or rolled on before under coat sets up, keep that in mind while you pull tape on it doing masking for other colors.

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