Just curious before I try it...does anyone use spray paint directly from a can to apply the final color scheme to their model's after primer? Or is it standard to use a compressor and spray gun? Just want to ask before I go the less expensive route and use a spray can.
Thanks,
Patrick

Just getting in to the hobby myself so don't know jack about the building aspects of your question but I am knowledgable about paint having sold it. I see no reason why you can't use a good acrylic spray can paint. You will sacrifice some durablity and looks but I see that as the only real negative aspects to your idea. I remember when I sold paint how many people would come in and complain about Wagner Power Sprayers that they bought somewhere else (also Thompson's Water Seal-both junk products). We were always fixing problems from the mass merchandisers, people when they get into trouble go to an actual paint supply store to get bailed out. If you ever saw a cheap/small Wagner Power Sprayer you'd wonder what made someone think they could paint a big house with it. But, in this particular case something like that might work for your application since it is small. You could probably find something for about $100-$150 that will do a decent job and perhaps the savings of not buying aerosol form paint may recoup your intial expense. Something to think about.

Do some research here before you buy "off the shelf" aerosal paint. Most will not stand up to glow fuel. Some of the Rustoleum brand will and some of the automotive "hi-temp" engine paint will. There has been a lot of discussion on RCU so check it out.

Yep...I've been reading the other posts...I guess I'm mostly concerned about being able to lay down an even coat of paint. I've never worked with a spray gun before and/or seen two different models side by side. One having been done with a spray can and one done with a paint gun to compare.

I used a combination of spray gun, airbrush and spray cans to paint my Focke Wulf. I'm pleased with the results I attained using Krylon spray cans for my red and white stripes.

Spray cans of paint will do an acceptable job. What you need to aware of is that unless the can says ACRYLIC LACQUER it is not fuel proof. The "Dupli-Color" brand of paint in the 11 oz cans (labeled Truck, Van) is USUALLY labled on the back as acrylic lacquer. If it doesn't say it, it most likely isn't.

Another option is to use the spray cans you want and then clear coat it. Due to paint incompatabilities (one causing the other to wrinkle and craze), I suggest clear coating with MinWax PolyCrylic. It comes in a spray can (blue in color), compatable with everything, is water based (no fumes), comes in satin, semi gloss and gloss, and will not yellow over time.

Other than all the advice above, get some cardboard and roll some tube and other shapes to practice on. Get a fell for the paint delivery of the can. Work in passes, starting off to the side and once the paint is spraying smoothly then pass over the item to be painted. Then once off the other side stop spraying (or make another pass). Making sure you don't stop and start on the model will help to prevent drips, and overly thick coats. Make sure you practice a bit with the cardboard to get a good feel for the can spray pattern and speed needed for good coverage.

Duke

The Astro Hog in my Avatar was finished in RustOleum yellow over a layup of wood, silkspan, sanded waterbased Polyurethane, then the spray can on the fuse.. The wings were covered with Ciconite (fabric),clear doped (Three coats), then two coats of the RustOleum. Not bad at all, I think. And fuel proof too ! Only the Metalics are NOT fuel proof in RustOleum.[] The spray nozzles are fine and directional, horizontal and vertical.
I like the easy cleanup !

Ugo

I have a touch-up gun and an airbrush and a large compressor. I haven't used either of them for about four years. The spray cans work perfectly well for me and there is no clean up, just throw them away when they're empty. If you plan to use Lustrecote from Top Flite be sure you use the proper primer as it will eat its way through Rustoleum primer. Most Rustoleum colors are fuel proof to a degree and work well with Rustoleum primer. For other fuel proof model paints I have found Krylon primer works well.

I have used Rustoleum for years and never had a fuel proofing problem.But......You must let it dry for a long time! I let it dry at least a week, sometimes more. It is oil based and takes forever to fully cure. Also, it's heavy and will run easily. But, it covers very well with only 2 or 3 coats.