I have a question regarding building surfaces. Many of you appear to use hollow core doors to build your models on and I'm thinking that's a great idea due to how cheap they are. I'm planning on placing one in my basement to build my Sig SE, but I'm curious as to what you guys are placing the doors on. Will two sawhorses work and if so did you just clamp the door to the sawhorse? Is there a better alternative than what I've described above? Keep in mind I don't have a fortune to spend on my building area

I used a solid core door for mine actually. It was about $30 at a local lumber yard. I just mounted it on top of a simple bench that is built out of 2x4's. I put the whole thing on wheels so I could move it in and out of my garage easily. It's nothing fancy, but it makes a nice big work surface that is also nice and flat.

Kinda messy right now. One of these days I will probably build some shelves underneath so I can keep things a little more organized.

Russ.

Go to a surplus building supplies warehouse or find a remodeling contractor and get a couple of cheap base cabinets (like kitchen cabinets). Ususally $30-50 will get you a couple (atleast in my area). Place your door on top and there you go. If you don't want them to move, tack one piece of 1/4" plywood to the backs of both cabinets.

I had a specific size and purpose for mine, so I built the three pieces. Cost about $125 for supplies and hardware, 4 hrs of work.

get yourself a steel door. no chance for warpage.and lay across your saw horses. then place a 24" x 96" sheet of partical board on top of that and glue 1/2" cork to that. then you will have a builders table thats always true. hollow core doors can and will warp.

I somehow end up having to relocate my shop every couple of years so I like the hollow door and sawhorse approach. You can buy plastic pre-fab saw horses at your favorite "home center". They are nice and level and have rubber points on the top to keep your door from skidding around. The only downfall is that you have to watch for warping...if you keep heavy junk on it then it will warp.

Thanks for the help guys!! Keep the posts coming!!

daren- The idea of a steel door is appealing from the warp factor, but the cost of a steel door seems a little high for what I'm after. Not to mention the weight of one of those things.

graviti- Could I put three saw horses under it to prevent the warping?

bear750 and seafury_fb11 - Those are great looking work areas. Perhaps if my funds allow I can go with a cabinet approach for the bottom of the door as well. Seems like a great way to keep things organized.

I quit using hollow core doors after I went out to get a new one to replace my old one.
Upon checking out about 15 doors, in two building supply places, I found that the best one of the bunch was out 1/16". I was using a 36" machinist straight edge for checking. Most of the doors are either cupped or twisted. I also checked out the perma core doors. These were as bad as the hollow core doors. The perma core doors have foam filled core instead of being hollow.
I went to a glass shop that carries salvaged plate glass, and got a piece of 1/2" plate glass that was 3' X 5' for $60.00. I now put this on top of my warped hollow core door, and have a perfectly flat building surface.
I used 3M77 adhesive to glue some ceiling tiles to the glass, but I think I'll get rid of them and go to a piece of sheet rock. The ceiling tiles don't hold pins very well.
You can flip the glass over for cutting out iron on covering, or using your incidence meter and rulers to set up your plane. I use a couple pieces of 1/2" foam on the glass when covering, to protect the plane.
The piece of glass weighs about 80 pounds. The table frame is made of 2X4 material, angle iron, and adjustable legs.

Greg

In my 20 years of building planes, I have only used hollow core doors supported on stacked concrete blocks as a building/work table. I have not experienced the "sliding" around of the door that others have mentioned.

I have a regulart bench built in the center and also along the wall of my shop. I am also using a door as a bench extension. If you are worried about the door bowing in the center use 3 saw horses and also run 2x4's lengthways under the dor across the horses.

If you want the ulitimate building surface that is portable too, try a Wright Engineering building board. They come in a variety of sizes and are great. I got one for my birthday this year and love it.

Thanks guys.......boy this is tough. Some people say hollow doors are great FLAT surfaces and others have not had much luck. Maybe I should buy a hollow core door and put a piece of glass over the top if I can find some for not much money.

What? Mine is portable. I just hitch it to the back of my truck and tow it where ever I want to go. Gets kinda' hairy on the freeway though.

Russ.

Russ, yeeaa, I guess that would work...I would recommend removing whatever project you are working on first though

I really should put some bigger wheels on it. Those little ones really aren't designed to go much faster than about 50.

For a nice scale appearance, I'd go with the Robart diamond tread.

Do they make those in a 15" variety?

I used the hollow door/sawhorses for years. The door eventually warped so I started looking around. I got a large steel desk (36X84) with drawers from the local used office supplies store, and covered the top with a 3/8" thick sheet of particle board and 3/16" thick white construction paperboard. Laminated it all together with spots of spray adhesive and a roller. Total costs was $48. Cuts, scrapes etc on the paperboard can be repaired with thinned plain white glue, and the whole top can be replaced in an hour if needed.

Been using a hollow core door with 1" blue foam insulation board comes in 4x8 and when it gets bad replace it (Just be careful with the CA) Holds pins good Would be good used over any flat support
I think I might check out the 1/2" plate glass for sub support. No warp problems there

Funfly 8

I use a hollow core closet door (it is a little wider and shorter than an entry door) screwed to a fold up wooden table. Then I have a piece of 1/2 inch sheet rock on top of all this. Works well for me as my building space is really limited. Loren

Anyone have a good source for 1/2" cork for a table top covering?? I haven't been able to locate any locally, and Google hasn't helped much....Mostly producers and wholesalers outside the US.

Thanks!

Doug

Try this:

The Cork Store

Thanks Howard!!

I came across that link some time ago, but then it didn't show up the last time I did a search. I'll bookmark it this time!

Doug