Ringed 2 Cycle Break In
07-29-2004, 12:49 PM
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Ringed 2 Cycle Break In
Sorry for the newbie question but I just got my first ringed engine (OS 50SX 2 cycle) and want to make sure I am doing this right... First off the manual read to open the needle valve 1 1/2 - 2 turns for initial start... I had to open mine much more and ended up at about 3 1/2 turns for the correct RPM which seems odd to begin with... More troubling however is the fact that through the first tank it would not allow me to slow it down to anything even close to slow without dying... I figured it would not idle smoothly until a few tanks at a minimum but this is dying at anything under about 1/3 throttle... No RPM Gage but if it is topping out at around 17,000 then I would guess it can only drop it to about 5,000 - 6,000... Anything lower and it will run for a few seconds and then just stop as if it were an ignition engine that had been turned off... No sputtering and no farting just off... It will start right back up and run like a champ at anything over the 5 or 6 k but if I drop it down it just dies...
Any word on if this is normal of if I should venture into the low speed settings?? Still factory set and don't want to mess with it unless I have to...
Any word on if this is normal of if I should venture into the low speed settings?? Still factory set and don't want to mess with it unless I have to...
07-29-2004, 02:04 PM
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RE: Ringed 2 Cycle Break In
The first .50 sx that I had came with the carb and insert up to high. Someone had failed to seat the insert correctly at the factory. All that was necessary was to loosen the carb hold down and press the carb and insert down. You might check that, if you see a bronze bushing sticking up under the carb, it may be the problem. If you don't see it, it is probably seated correctly. It may be causing an air leak and creating grief.
The others I have were assembled correclty. You will need to make some adjustment on the bottom end after it is broken in. Mine required about 1/8 turn to idle properly.
Other than that, I just followed the break-in instructons that came with the engine. It's always a good idea to look over the engine and tighten all the hardware.
The others I have were assembled correclty. You will need to make some adjustment on the bottom end after it is broken in. Mine required about 1/8 turn to idle properly.
Other than that, I just followed the break-in instructons that came with the engine. It's always a good idea to look over the engine and tighten all the hardware.
07-29-2004, 02:56 PM
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RE: Ringed 2 Cycle Break In
Oddly, all that the manual says about the low speed setting is not to touch it... Nothing about a factory setting or what to look for on the low speed problems that might come up...
07-29-2004, 03:21 PM
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RE: Ringed 2 Cycle Break In
Ringed engines take a much longer time to break-ijn than do ABC type engines.
Fuel: You should use a castor blend fuel and add some extra castor to bring the oil content up. if you use all synthetic, the ring will take a longer time to seat.
Running: Run it slobbering rich for a couple of tanks, so rich you have to leave the glow plug battery on. After a couple of tanks, start leaning it out 2 or 3 clicks each tank. After several tanks, the compression will come up indicating the ring is seating. it does take a while, but a well broken in, ringed engine will last nearly forever.
Running too lean: Going too lean at first can, in some cases, overheat the engine and warp or distort the ring. I know people who get so anxious to fly, they crank them up brand new, lean out and go fly. Their engines don't run all that well in the long run.
Flying: I always run a half gallon through mine on the bench. Some people say this is excessive, but I let my engines speak for themselves. Once you get to where the engine breaks into the 2-cycle range, go ahead and fly. Be sure to not crank it too lean at this point. You want it slightly rich in flight. Lean it 2 clicks each flight until you are at a good flight setting.
Flight Needle Setting: You should always be showing a slight smoke trail at the first of the flight. Unless you are pumped and regulated, your engine will lean out during flight, so it stands to reason if you don't want it too lean at the end of a flight, you have to start off slightly rich. If you want to find your max running rpm, fill the tank a quarter full or less. Crank and lean out. Raise the nose vertical and hold it for as long as your longest vertical climb. Find a setting that will let you go vertical for 30 seconds or so. Then stop and fill the tank start again. It'll be rich, but it'll lean out to max as you get to the end of the flight. This is where you should start, in my opinion.
Fuel: You should use a castor blend fuel and add some extra castor to bring the oil content up. if you use all synthetic, the ring will take a longer time to seat.
Running: Run it slobbering rich for a couple of tanks, so rich you have to leave the glow plug battery on. After a couple of tanks, start leaning it out 2 or 3 clicks each tank. After several tanks, the compression will come up indicating the ring is seating. it does take a while, but a well broken in, ringed engine will last nearly forever.
Running too lean: Going too lean at first can, in some cases, overheat the engine and warp or distort the ring. I know people who get so anxious to fly, they crank them up brand new, lean out and go fly. Their engines don't run all that well in the long run.
Flying: I always run a half gallon through mine on the bench. Some people say this is excessive, but I let my engines speak for themselves. Once you get to where the engine breaks into the 2-cycle range, go ahead and fly. Be sure to not crank it too lean at this point. You want it slightly rich in flight. Lean it 2 clicks each flight until you are at a good flight setting.
Flight Needle Setting: You should always be showing a slight smoke trail at the first of the flight. Unless you are pumped and regulated, your engine will lean out during flight, so it stands to reason if you don't want it too lean at the end of a flight, you have to start off slightly rich. If you want to find your max running rpm, fill the tank a quarter full or less. Crank and lean out. Raise the nose vertical and hold it for as long as your longest vertical climb. Find a setting that will let you go vertical for 30 seconds or so. Then stop and fill the tank start again. It'll be rich, but it'll lean out to max as you get to the end of the flight. This is where you should start, in my opinion.
07-29-2004, 10:27 PM
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RE: Ringed 2 Cycle Break In
Yes, most of that I did know in that these must be run rich and that it is important to let it break in before running it at speed under load... The part that worries me is that while I know what a too rich low speed idle setting looks like (won't run up quickly from idle to high rpm without sputtering or stalling), I don't really know what a too lean setting on the low speed looks like... I assume that one would have to compensate with higher throttle settings and wider high speed needle settings to even get it to run and that seems to be where I am at... There is simply no starting it or running it with the throttle less than 1/3 open and the high speed needle over 3 1/2 turns open... Given the manual calls for 1 1/2 - 2 turns for initial starting, I have a funny feeling I got the one motor with the screwed up low speed setting from the factory... That is very bad because there is next to know info on the factory setting... All it mentions is how to lean it when too rich and not to change it unless you have to... Not alot to go on so am kinda lost...
As for the carb, it looks fine... It seems on and tight but one thing that does not look right is the low speed needle in the carb... It is about 1mm from touching the fuel inlet at wide open throttle... As you close it, it appears to touch the fuel inlet at about 1/3 to half throttle... I realize it must enter into the fuel inlet but it still seems a bit too close to be right...
Anyone know the right initial setting for the low speed mixture needle on the 50 SX?? Either that or can anyone count the turns on theirs or measure the gap at wide open throttle so I can try and guess??
As for the carb, it looks fine... It seems on and tight but one thing that does not look right is the low speed needle in the carb... It is about 1mm from touching the fuel inlet at wide open throttle... As you close it, it appears to touch the fuel inlet at about 1/3 to half throttle... I realize it must enter into the fuel inlet but it still seems a bit too close to be right...
Anyone know the right initial setting for the low speed mixture needle on the 50 SX?? Either that or can anyone count the turns on theirs or measure the gap at wide open throttle so I can try and guess??
07-31-2004, 04:50 AM
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RE: Ringed 2 Cycle Break In
Do not be timid about playing with the needles. They can be screwed only in our out. By playing with them you will learn what effects they have and how to correct a wrong setting. Everything I know about anything I learned by doing it wrong at least once!
Ed S
Ed S
