Tailwheel Question ??
#1
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From: Luverne,
AL
Are there any drawbacks to using a castoring tailwheel as opposed to a steerable other than windy taxi conditions ??
I am building my first tail dragger (4* 60) and the tailwheel mounts directly to the rudder which I am a little leary of.
Maybe I shouldn't be concerned. Is there much stress on the tailwheel ??
Thanks !
I am building my first tail dragger (4* 60) and the tailwheel mounts directly to the rudder which I am a little leary of.
Maybe I shouldn't be concerned. Is there much stress on the tailwheel ??
Thanks !
#3
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From: Merrimack,
NH
It is true that a steerable tailwheel is preferable, but a caster tailwheel works fine for all practical purposes--just gun the engine to put propblast on the rudder when you want to turn. My solution is to fix the tailwheel tiller to the rudder by slipping a piece of fuel tubing over the tiller, then gooping the fuel line to the bottom edge of the rudder. This allows any tailwheel shocks to be absorbed without overstressing your rudder servo. This approach works well with the Dubro tailwheel, which is lightweight and reasonably priced. Try to line up the vertical axis of the tailwheel wire with the rudder hinge line--but if you're off a bit, the tiller will just slide around inside the fuel tubing.
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From: Manchester,
NJ
I don't know about the 4*60 tail wheel, but the tail wheel on the 4*40 was a weak spot. After having to be repaired several times I replaced the stock tail wheel with the small "Sullivan" tail wheel which attaches to the fuse and is steered by a spring connected to the rudder. This works very well and far superior to what was provided with the kit.
DaveB
DaveB
#6
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What hookedonrc said. Here a link to the correct Sullivan tailwheel http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFV47&P=ML
#7
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If you are flying off grass, use a tail skid instead of a wheel. works just as well and a lot simpler and cheaper. On a hard surface, use a steerable tailwheel. With a skid, you learn to use the elevator as well as the rudder on taxi. Just a slight bit of down elevator on the turns to get the tail skid barely off the ground and a quick blast of throttle will let you turn on a dime.
#9

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ORIGINAL: Rodney
If you are flying off grass, use a tail skid instead of a wheel. works just as well and a lot simpler and cheaper.
If you are flying off grass, use a tail skid instead of a wheel. works just as well and a lot simpler and cheaper.
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From: Vancouver,
BC, CANADA
Since you've already decided to go the Sullivan route, this is probably late...but let me add my vote for the Sullivan tailwheels. I've got one on a 4-Star 40(I had the problems with the wire in the fin popping out the side of the rudder) which works well and convinced me to use one on my Hog Bipe...also works well.
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Welcome. I forgot to mention a third option, the non-steerable, but free turning, tailwheel. One of the guys has one of these at the field. Takeoffs appear to be ok, as does the groundhandling on a calm day. However, the slightest bit of wind makes it nearly impossible for him to even taxi the thing. The weather vane effect seems to be tough to overcome.
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From: Catoosa,
OK
piper chuck,
I think that's what he meant when he says "castoring tailwheel" in the first post. I added landing gear to a small SPAD plane and used a castoring tailwheel. It was one ground looping plane on takeoffs. There wasn't enough rudder area to steer the plane before it ground looped. Ended up having to hook up the tailwheel to the rudder servo for control. Having enough rudder area is a requirement for good ground handling and no steerable tailwheel.
Jesse
I think that's what he meant when he says "castoring tailwheel" in the first post. I added landing gear to a small SPAD plane and used a castoring tailwheel. It was one ground looping plane on takeoffs. There wasn't enough rudder area to steer the plane before it ground looped. Ended up having to hook up the tailwheel to the rudder servo for control. Having enough rudder area is a requirement for good ground handling and no steerable tailwheel.
Jesse



