I had a zenoa G26 with a futaba tsxa in a balsa usa Pup and had no problems. I later took the motor and radio and installed them in an SREindeker and I had all kinds of interference. I started removing things and running it, the wings, the cowl, the hatch and nothing changed. The antenna was further away from any thing than in the PUP and the reciever was at least 6" further away from the motor. Someone suggested that I get an electronic ignition and shroud the plug but all that was unnecessary on the PUP with the same equipment so I went with a PCm reciever and thats what did it for me.

As someone suggested, this only masks to problem. My change to PCM resulted in the same success, but the interference remains. I hope to find the real source over the winter.
Thank God for PCM, what a difference!

Any update to your interference problem? I have the same problem

THanks
John

John: I just returned from the field where I flew the Extra 230 with the problem. I repeatedly checked it for interference, range checked it with the engine running, and tested it while taxiing with no visible glitches.
Remenber, this is the third receiver I've had in the plane, and this time it's a PCM from Futaba (only because Hitec doesn't offer 8 channel PCM and I need 8 channels).
I can only suggest that you try PCM because it does make a difference. Perhaps, as some folks say, it only masks the trouble but it works!
Pete

To fellow modlers,

My expereince with small engines and automotive is eleven years total. All standard plug wires leak KV [ killavolts]. that is what interfering with your recievers, pcm recievers is just a bandaid, If you notice on the higher end engines such as DA and 3W, there wires have shealed wires, Some one in here said twisting servo wires does not work, thats false! When you have 2 wires in parralle, they leak a frequency or voltage as such and can cause havoc on recivers and servos, servo wires are not sheilded, if they were they would be much more expensive, In some cars I have worked on they have had bullentens on noise intereference and most crank position sensors are sheilded because if they pick other noise they will run like crap. Im not no expert at anything butg have basic understanding. And like some people say in here metal to metal causes interference, True, some people over look the littlest things such as, metal arms on metal gears servos, loose spark plug connections, A single cylinder engine creates a lot of vibration which is turned into a frequency. Helpful hint use a hose clamp on the Bosch plug caps, it keeps it tight.

I've read all the posts in this thread.

Noone ever asked if all the servos and switches for the RX were 12-18" away from all the ignition components.

The RX, Switch, Battery, and all Servos need to be at least 12-18" away from all the ignition components. That means the ignition switch, battery, and box must be 12-18" from ALL the RX stuff. EVERYTHING.

That means that if your running a throttle servo on the firewall and it's 6" from any part of the ignition system --then you can bet the bank thats your problem.

If your ignition switch and your RX switch are too close--then thats a problem too.

Too often, people overlook this by saying, "Well Joe or Bob or Tom, Dick, or Harry is running a throttle servo on the firewall with XYZ engine and he's not having problems." That doesn't mean squat.

If your having problems, and you haven't got your stuff seperated--then thats your problem.